here... i give u free...

original >> http://paperkraft.blogspot.com/2008/10/yot...raft-danbo.html
amazon >> http://paperkraft.blogspot.com/2008/06/ama...aft-mascot.html

bro... ex-camera aku ke tu...

if not mistaken amazon.jp still have..
but only for japan..
find someone who live in japan to buy for u..

yup...

Hi.. the building looks familiar to me..
U stay at MU?
Ktar or Utar student?

alrite.. take good care of my 1st dslr baby...

pic spam...

long time din post pic d

hanafinoor: Perhaps you could call them to tell them how much you bought it for? Also, was it under warranty? They have not gotten back to me on registering my F20 either.

Pang: The second picture has an overexposed flash because the flash is 30 cm away from the object and it cannot go low-power enough to light a subject at F4.5 and ISO100 correctly at such close distances. Trying the same shot at F5.6 however nothing gets overexposed.

As for the first shot being warmer - the higher the flash output*, the warmer the flash is. When you plug the F58/F42/F20 on an A200-A900 body, it will tell the body what is the flash temperature based on flash output. Because the flash was off-camera however, it did not pass the WB information.

In the first picture the flash was further away and the camera was at ISO100 thus it needed to output more. Thus it was warmer.

That said, there's nothing wrong with a warmer flash - observe your point-and-shoots and you'll see that the flash unit has a warm color.

Of course, the point of this exercise is not to use manual WB but to use AWB to copy Seng_Kiat's scenario. Read the context!

*output because the term "flash power" is misleading; flashes always fire at full power, just that the duration changes. Unless you have a very expensive professional studio light which is engineered to change power and not just duration so it maintains a very consistent 5500K no matter what output setting.

I read Seng_kiat posts earlier, if off the shoe doesn't pass the WB information as you said I don't see why you should use AWB. The ambient light could have trick the camera to think it's warm, so the cam set it to lower temp which result in a slightly bluish output which seng_kiat is getting.

The second thing i want to comment is your flash power output. Since you said the flash always fire full power, how does the duration changes the temperature? I believe this only happen to Sony flashes as I have shot using Nikon and Canon flashes off the cam with 1/32,1/16,1/8,1/4,1/2,1/1 and never need to touch my WB setting.

The only thing I observe with higher flash output is the exposure on my subject. I have never come across anyone complaining cooler colour when they are using lower powered flash. Well, ya I can see that you are comparing the Sony flashes with flash on a point-and-shoots, then I will agree with you, there is nothing wrong.

When the flash is used on an Alpha, AWB automatically goes to Flash WB, which is 5500K unless the flash on top tells the body otherwise.

On an Alpha, AWB does not go down to 3200K when the camera detects tungsten light and flash is used in AWB mode, unlike what you have assumed.

When you set a Canon/Nikon/Sony flash to 1/1, its duration is longer, the temperature is warmer (warmer than 5500K), but the power is the same.

When it is set to 1/32, the duration is shorter, the temperature is cooler (nearer to 5500K), but the power is the same.

This is the same for cheap studio flashes also.

My wall is beige-colored. (And uh, my shirt is not pure white, either.) The monitor in the second picture is beige also, in case you assume that all of these are neutral white. This makes the flash appear even warmer.

My mistake for putting the warmness of the first picture to higher power flash - it is also and primarily attributable to the scene being beige!

Nikon and Canon flashes also have this WB function:

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0806/08061001canon430iiex.asp


http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardw...SB600/index.htm


http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores...552921665462455


And more reading:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/disc...57612503115874/



http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/hummer/humguide1.asp



http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equi...es-forum/00S50d


http://www.lowel.com/glossary.html


This post has been edited by albnok: Aug 19 2009, 04:03 AM

wow....sharp eyes eh......KTAR....

Morning everyone, returning my phottix battery grip.

This seller is good, so polite :

Good Seller

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Added on August 19, 2009, 6:56 amQ : Is it worth to go for flickr pro ? :-)

This post has been edited by gizmo_pony: Aug 19 2009, 06:56 AM

albnok, thank you so much for your test .. I had no time last night to test again with AWB and flash .. I just back home since 7am I left yesterday... damn tired .. ..

btw, this is the picture i shoot on the same day as i shoot my friend (as posted earlier with WB issue) ..



if I am not mistaken, I was using f58 with AWB for this shoot and it looks good.. actually i shoot a few but this the best WB i can get .. the others are having WB issue .. I am penin d .. sometimes ok sometimes ko .. ..

hurmmm .. if i am not mistaken, there is something like setting up the flash in the menu .. i cant remember what it is (i cant check in camera menu because i am recharging the battery) but the options i have are "ambient" and "ambient & flash" .. anything to do with it?

This post has been edited by Seng_Kiat: Aug 19 2009, 07:35 AM

albnok: if canon/nikon/sony flash does change its temp (WB) (based on the flash output) and send a signal to the camera to adjust the WB; should we stick with AWB instead of using custom (eg:5500k) or flash WB?

The above scenario is only applicable for on-camera external flash right?
If flash is off-camera then we should use either custom/flash WB.

please enlighten me
thanks

why return it? no good? and can return after purchase?

This post has been edited by ahtsong: Aug 19 2009, 10:12 AM

I got the defective one, gonna exchange it. Sometimes it works perfectly, sometimes gives me headache, the buttons gone wild etc...

Always unfortunate lately, dunno why huhu. Hopefully receive a working unit later.

ooo ya ho... you're going to KK... lupa la plak... oh well... looks like it's just me and Tubiks then... as long as can go TT and photoshoot good already lah... hehehe...

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Added on August 19, 2009, 10:39 amwaaaa... I hope mine is an ok one and doesn't cause any problems...

This post has been edited by Braynumb: Aug 19 2009, 10:39 AM

and i have highlighted the below statement



continuos shooting, doesn't say this will happen on 1 shot



i read this as being the ambient colour temperature which the nikon will read and transmit over so the situation is ambient + flash WB, which will give a more accurate result. Don't think so there is a relationship with output of the flash



this is the same as above

when we say compensation, wat kind of compensation we are talking about? +/- 100K or 1000K ?



you tested WB without using white/grey card? your eyes has to be very good and accurate without a reference. LOL

from the test that Seng_kiat has done, i only have 2 conclusions,
1) the camera or flash is flawed
2) you are wrong that Alpha WB doesn't go down when OFF the cam flash was used

Sp00kY: good question there, exactly my point in my earlier post

edit:
question,



if this is the case, why most of the flash need a flash sync. speed which normally is 1/250 or 1/200? it should be safe to sync up to 1/900?

please enlighten me

This post has been edited by Vincent Pang: Aug 19 2009, 10:48 AM

Eh, you bought one as well ?