Thanks you guys.. Will be ordering T100C2 Mark II then.. can't wait to flash it during the night game.. hehe

@rayzel
where do you usually play at night?

I don't own TK20, but I have others AA like L2D, Quark AA^2, there all take 1.2V well. 1.7V should be no problem also, after all , when on load, all should pull down to lower than 1.5V.

Yes, Alkaline batteries almost guarantee to leak if you leave it for long time, be it Energizer or other brand, it is only good if you use it and replace it frequently. Rechargeable NiMH seems to be better in terms of the leakage (So far non of my NiMH leak before, and I had too many incident of leaking Alkaline that ruined my stuffs).

Lithium e2 should be ok, but if you really want to leave it long for emergency use, like in the house or the car, why not use CR123A Lithium, it has 10 years shelf life, should be a good backup light for emergency. And it should have more energy than the AA, hence run longer.

Over discharge, you mean like use it below the 2.7V for Lithium?
Yes, NiMh cutoff voltage should be 0.8-0.9V when on load, if no load or light load (like clock), it should be 1.1V. But so far no NiMH battery comes with this kind of features that I know locally. Some LED head does cut off AA at 0.9V, but TK20 never mentioned that.

Sometimes the term risk is misleading, the "risk" here is merely for the risk of destroying the NiMh/Li-ion, not the device or the property/health of the user.

Like the Protected li-ion, the main meaning of the protected is the li-ion is protected from overcharge, overdischarge and possible over current (it is actually not fool proof, and it is not really short circuit either, but somehow it protect the li-ion from over-current discharge). ((Haha damonlbs, still owe you a complete write up on this issue, will complete it soon, when I get the time))

So it is protecting the li-ion. not you haha Having said that, using AA or li-ion has the same kind of risk of fire/explosion.


In short, I like the natural white LED, but if you use it frequently it is ok. to keep it for long, don't use Alkaline, the advertised D****cell is the worst of leaking for prolong of storage. Lithium or NiMH is the way to go, but NiMH will selfdischarge over time, not good either. Lithium AA, expensive!

Get a CR123A like PD20/PD30, it is smaller, brighter and can store up to 10 years. Ideal for emergency / backup light.

Just my 0.9 sen. Have a nice day

This post has been edited by susuman: Sep 16 2009, 09:58 AM

If you plan to buy flashlights using the AA batteries, I recommend the Sanyo Eneloop.
It is by far the most reliable rechargeable AA batteries I have used so far.

Hi All,

for the flashaholic, if you happen to carry extra battery and worried it short-circuit, here my selfbuilt solution, using PVC pipe and end cap. It is cheap and easily available from your local hardware store.

The picture shown are using 3/4", which is suitable for RC123A/RCR123/18650, you can also use 1/2" for AA/AAA/CR123A.

Have a nice day.

ps: the long version is for 2x18650, short one is 1x18650 or 1xRCR123, you can have it any size/configuration suit you.


Attached image(s)

thanks susuman and justin78 for the info...
will try the energizer lithium and normal energizer when i got the light.
for alkaline leakage, mostly leave it for around how long then only it will leak?? is few weeks consider long??? or long as in few months...
as for sanyo eneloop, will try it later on when i got xtra budget, coz that is another RM100 more needed for the batteries and charger.

In addition to Susuman's answers..
Yes, TK20 can take Alkalines (1.5), NiMH(1.2) and Lithiums(1.8)


(sorry LONG answer, but I felt it was necessary)
Leaking depends on several factors, when it was manufactured, how much capacity was used vs how long it will be kept from the last time being used. Also, if you use different voltage of any chemistries in TK20 = 1.5 & 1.0 (in series) example, the performance will be as good as the 1.0 and both batteries runtime will be reduced alot from their normal. Must use batteries of similar voltage. You will have the proper runtime and avoid the risk of leaking.

Common leaking from batteries happens when:
1) Battery too old and they cannot retain their charge anymore (e.g Alkalines store more than 5 years+), they either leak or when used, they leak immediately.
2) When the voltage has drop to the end-of-discharge point (< 0.8v) and then prolong use will allow the chemistry to collapse, rupture happens, leaking occurs.

Experience:
- You can keep alkalines for a year+ in a flashlight. Mark the dates down. Replace them after a year. If you use it alot, few hours everyday, you may replace them in a week perhaps. Depending on usage.
- L91 Lithium Primaries (Energizer) can last 10++ years. They have higher energy density so they have more runtime than alkalines. Again, recycle them if used alot. Once you TK20 gets dimmed, you'll know!
- e2 lithiums - seems ok but I have never use it.

*These two types of batteries you can leave it in the flashlight and keep in the car under the hot sun for a period. No damage done. Their performance will decrease slightly when heated slightly, but will be back to normal again at room temperature. You won't notice any difference in performace from TK20 regulated electronics.

-Lithium-ION, NiMH rechargeables cannot leave in the car under hot sun. Lifespan slowly reduced are permanent. The chemistries do not recover from high heat. But they are most reliable in flashlight applications (take note there are more about lithium ions, if you wish to know..)

TK20 is a good light, you can still use Alkaline or Lithiums as long you understand them. I recommend to invest in Eneloops LSD 2000 mAH and their specific charger. Or you can also invest in Powerex Imedions LSD 2100 mAH with Maha charger.

Overdischarge risk applies to all. But severity is more for lithiums and li-ion batteries.

Just a thought, anyone who wants to sell their lights (2nd hand) should post here (its against the rules but then it's really sad to see people selling overseas when the locals here can save them shipping costs etc)
what do u guys think?

I already have a Raw and a Wee. So buying this would require me to be rick. Lol.


Raw running 200L gets HOT! I'm not comfortable with the LED getting that hot although Rob says it's OK. It will definitely lose its output very fast. My Wee running at 50L is a nice light but some places can't use cos it's too bright (like cinema) and some places dun throw far enough. But that's why I have another light in my pocket right?


My 1st question is why TK20? I can think of better lights at cheaper prices with better emitters available. (Sorry Fenix, haha!)
If you're not going to use it often, it's probably going to be kept in the car or at home for emergencies right? The best battery would probably be Energizer E^2 lithium primary. Why I ask is because TK20 has a rubber body thing which might become sticky if left in the heat. No experience but that's just what I think. It's also way expensive. Unless you use it a lot (it is WAY tougher that the 2 lights below), you don't need the toughness.

Here are my recommendations.
Eagletac P100A2 neutral. Q3-5A.
4Sevens Quark AA^2 neutral tactical. Q3-5A.
?? err... dunno de.


I think you should create a new thread for selling and also put the link on your sig then we'll all know. =)

ah true that...
lol i'm not selling any at the moment, just a thought that it would benefit all malaysian flashaholics.

Yes, I also have a few flashlights I want to let go also.

I have a U2A for sale at the moment.

Link here : http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=198180

Let me know if anyone here is interested.

I think that is a great idea A separate thread would be nice as we would not need to vet through this entire thread.

Oh man!!! See...wish this come up early. I just bought a U2A!! Although I might be interested in your little lego there. What's the extended runtime for your U2A?

Can I trade-in with one of my 6P and/or T100Cmk2 and/or E20 + RM?? OR....
How much is it in Rm if post or COD in Miri?

No idea as I seldom use it.

No trades at the moment. Would prefer to be paid in USD since I can then use it as PP cash to purchase some more toys.
PM me if you're interested.

thanks all for the advice given, already got my tk20.
1 more thing to ask, when im changing the mode, i turn the whole head right??
which means when i tighten the head, its turbo mode, and when i loosen it by abit, it become general mode.
Is tat correct? or im doing it the wrong way???
if that so, then will water gets in when im using the general mode, which the head is not fully tighen...

This post has been edited by Togepy: Sep 17 2009, 06:46 PM

water shouldn't get in unless u loosen it drastically.
Just enough to go to general mode shouldn't cause u any problems.

Hi Togepy, grats on getting the TK20!

You'll only need to turn the head fully tighten or slightly loosen until it changes mode. If the o-ring is not exposed, then water won't go in. It's the o-ring that stops water from going in.

Deerlight vs Tiablo beamshot both using the same batteries. Fully charged.

Adjust focus by opening the head & turning the pill vs twisting the head.

Another, outdoor shots later.

Thanks to justin78 for providing the flashlights and head.

This post has been edited by jwyj: Sep 17 2009, 08:52 PM

Raining and I'm still learning how to take night ptotos.

You know which is which lar...