Hey guys, sorta new here and surprised to see a whole community of malaysian flashaholics!

I've been in around CPF often and strinq led me here. If I didn't pm'ed and asked, wouldn't have known this thread existed Didn't thought of looking in this category too

anyway, cheers

Hey guys, I'm considering to buy 8 eneloops for my TK40. Found a seller in LYN but I like to hear which trustable seller you guys recommend? I'm sure there are eneloop users here?

***EDIT
Heys, I'll settle for the Powerex Imedion, since I have a Maha charger

cheers.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 24 2009, 11:23 PM

Welcome striderman and icaruz76.. me new too

I've been backtracking V1 for about 30+ pages .. ive missed the gathering! I'll be interested if you guys have another.

Hey guys, thought I'll just post my small collection of flashlights

From left to right: A utility flashlight?, Fenix TK40, Fenix TA21, Fenix LD10, Ace 1LED AAA (similar to Dorcy's AAA)






I have a few more others like Energizer 2in1, 2in1 emergency light with magnet base, LED pushlights. I also had a Fenix LD01 but I gave it away

I did a current draw measurement on Fenix TA21 and LD10 in CPF, and with the help of HKJ to clarify and explain some stuff. I am still learning though

I have not done a measurement on the TK40 yet, but I've based from HKJ's reading from CPF:
Off:0.38mA, min:27mA, med:212mA, high:700mA and max:2.5A

I guess the reason why I'm interested in the current draw so I'll know briefly how much junction heat it actually produces based on the LED's manufacturer like cree, and how well flashlight manufacturers designed their heat sink to have the light function in certain conditions. Although the measurements are not exactly what the LED is consuming, I explained in my thread the actual way to get a correct measurement is from between the LED and the electronics inside the bezel. So far, I've only seen Quark gave readings of current draw for their flashlights which I feel it's important.

This utility flashlight below was an early experiment I mod from an incan to a 3LED drop-in from ACE:

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Added on August 26, 2009, 1:12 amHey, im just wondering, it seems that it's not meant to run on 2x 17670 then? since now abit cacat di

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 26 2009, 01:12 AM

heys me learning too, you can check out this website from a CPF member, scroll down for the english part on how to measure flashlights..
http://www.lygte-info.dk/

What other surefire lights u have? got a link or something

I noticed there are more surefire fans here than i've expected, but the eagletac and fenix is just about as worth it and at lower price. I'd go for eagletac and fenix over surefire too, I'm not doubting surefire quality, mainly because of the price. But those 2 are still very good lights I like their UI and designs more

Hey, nice collection man!! Eagletac has nice looking lights, and those Quarks


Haven't come across.. but it's more like "See, my light can do this *StrobeStrobeStrobeStrobeStrobeStrobe*"

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 26 2009, 11:28 PM

heys, just so if any of you haven't come across yet. Got this link from CPF, it's superb!

http://superfonarik.ru/article_info.php?articles_id=11
Site has very good beamshot comparison for different flashlights, you can compare them, do read the intro

original post: Check out these beamshots throw and flood

Hi, I dont have any ultrafire lights, I've read about them though, icaruz and strinq has a point about its quality... But then, you can go ahead and just buy it and give it a test, it runs on an earlier Cree P4 bin LED... post some pics! Does the charger and batt comes with it, an Ultrafire charger and protected 18650?

Fenix and Eagletac quality is alot higher though. If you can afford a bigger budget, I recommend these brands. Also not forgetting Quark lights are becoming very popular. We have local dealers for these brands.

If you like along the line of 18650 batts, I can recommend the Fenix TK11 R2, Fenix TA21 which I have experienced.

Other members here can also suggest more since they have more experience with other light brands. I only have Fenix lights and they are great.

hrmm.. the Olight M20 seems to be good as well.. muaha

Can't see ur pic from here, have to go back and see again Saw the review in CPF already, the Legion II is simply superb


So he was telling the truth in the specs: Ultimate Thermal Management

Yours is limited or standard? It does looks like the perfect light.. dang

Hey, i've been checking out about these SST emitters, seems to be something really new and goin over 1000+ lumens, current draw is quite high as well. I saw your CPF post.. Legion II gonna be the first to come out with this upgrade? Any beamshots, comparisons, features yet?

other info for those who haven't know abt it yet:
Luminus.com - White LEDs
Olight with SST-90...?

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 28 2009, 12:27 AM

I have an ultrafire charger and I monitor it when charging, I do not let the green light go on. I have a DMM to test and normally stop below 4.20. Ultrafire Li-ON chargers have trickle charge, quite dangerous!

You can still leave it to charge until the green light comes on, and then remove the batteries immediately from the charger. The voltage might probably be read from around 4.25 which is still okay, leaving the batteries to rest for 15mins+ after charged will have some reduction around 0.01-0.02. I'm abit paranoid and I prefer to charge around 4.20. Trickle charge for long hours (not sure exactly) might leave the batteries at 4.3, which will reduce the lifespan. But it also depends on how depleted the battery is, if fully depleted, I guess it's safe to charge overnight, take about 6 hours. But having it trickle for very long and more than 4.4 voltage can result in a fire, possible explosion.

New Pila chargers have a complete cut off point at somewhere 4.200 when the green light appears. More details discussed at CPF regarding Ultrafire chargers. I'm not sure if there are any dealers for Pila chargers in MY.

For me, I'm still fine with Ultrafire chargers. Once, I set an alarm *2 hours later to get up just to switch off my charger *and pull out battery, then go back to sleep.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 28 2009, 02:08 PM

i guess neo is keeping some secrets still huh with the prototype, its not even in Olight's website... yet. Neo might have gotten the 6500K from luminus original spec, hence the blueish tint? It's not gonna be popular with blueish tint yea...

MCE cool white is more pleasant, however with same current draw at 2.5A it's giving 600+ lumens, more than SST. I did thought why in the world ppl would bother with SST emitters since MCE have higher lumens with the same current? But hey, it dawned on me the reason is that SST emmiters were underdriven, MCE were overdriven!

The SST seems to be, were meant to draw higher current for more lumens, and possible lesser heat generation and more tolerant than MCE, well these are my speculation from reading info here and there and from luminus. Both SST and MCE has a juncton heat max at 150 degrees, but SST max draw at 9A, MCE at 700mA. Although lumines say it ranges from 1A - 13A. But flashlight manufacturers have taken MCE over 2-3A without any problems with sufficient heat sinking.. So, I'm not sure abt the future of luminus, but it seems that flashlights manufacturers might go for bigger battery configuration to give that 9A-13A output from a single die.

Once you get your drop in, do post beamshots yea, is it for your SF?

Hey.. take a closer look at your surrounding LED die and compare it with the pic below from another T20C2, is there some sort of burnt pattern?

oh phew.. good though

The cover or dome suppose to be tough, I've seen vids on how to solder these emitters and they appear to be durable. Did you wipe really hard?

hey thanks for mentioning 3 CPF members, didn't know MrGman did a huge list of lumen readings. You've spent alot of time in CPF? there's still alot to read about!

So the MCE quad LEDs are in series, thanks for clearing that up. I'll be checking info on SST on Mag and the cell you mentioned

Hey if you can, show your SST-50 drop-in and 6P when it arrives, post some beamshots

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Added on August 29, 2009, 10:47 amHeys, just to update on Ultrafire charger. I've did a test today and left the charge until the green light came on, I probably noticed it 5-10 mins later. Took it off warm off the charger and do a DMM test and it shows 4.20. I let it rest for 15mins and it is at 4.19. It appears to be at a safe level. I won't be doing continuity test over the green light though, CPF members have tried it already to proof there's trickle charge on the Ultrafire WF-139.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 29 2009, 10:47 AM

So ... when's the next gathering?

Thanks for the info. It's okay to use alkalines if one understand its chemistry and limit. Some CPF members hit a dud because they assumed. But mistakes were learnt, i did too. I have flashlights that can take alkalines only and its in my car, they don't loose charge in heated conditions like if the car is under the sun very long.

OK, well this is nothing compared to the OFC heatsink mod. But, I've used a minimag mod for this flashlight (can buy in Ace Hardware), 3x 5mm LEDs, comes with reflector but I removed it, blueish tint and very very dim on 2AA, it has a boost only circuit but it's not working very well, so I exchanged with 3x N batteries with a spacer.

Hey your OFC heatsink you ordered from CPF? comes with the electronic as well? You can put an MCE-E emitter instead..

Maha chargers have the re-conditioning ability, which will discharge and recharge batteries. Usually, you will do discharge/recharge on 2400 - 2500mA Nimh batteries when they have been stored too long or haven't used for a while. The discharge and recharge function breaks crystals to smaller size within the NiMH plates so they can retain their energy storage as before, so doing discharge/recharge 2-3 times is better for these kind of batteries. You don't have to recharge new batteries, just use them. However, you can discharge and recharge new batteries also no issue. But high heat, overdischarging and overcharging (long trickle charge) can reduce the lifespan of NiMH batts, you discharge/recharge also no use. You'll notice when your batteries become very hot to the touch when discharging or recharging them. It's normal to feel warm after a full charge on the batteries. If you got digital multimeter, it's good to monitor the state of your battery voltage after couple months of usage.

LSD NiMH batteries like eneloop 2000ma, powerex imedion 2100ma, have no problems with crystal build ups within the nickle plates, so these batteries retain their charge longer and you don't really have to perform discharge/recharge. But the high heat, overdischarging overcharging still applies to these batteries, they can still die. Just use them, I think when they reach 0.8 volts (i've never take reading before, but i will this time), need to recharge them already.

Oh, to answer your other question, NiMH are alot happier when being used then keeping them stored (your question to using them as normal), so yeah, use them also can be a form of discharging.

To add on my earlier statement, LSD batteries should be recondition also but not as much as normal NiMH batteries. I'm still new to LSD batts, I've noted down the date purchased and plan to do a reconditioning after 6-8 months. I'm also monitoring the voltage.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Sep 2 2009, 04:55 PM

Ah, sorry for long text

Ya just use normal, you using eneloops 2000ma right? so no problem la.. Don't leave them in the car under the hot sun for very long, until you get into your car and it feel like can "boil eggs".. that is bad for NiMH.