RP1699 in brochure

so can anyone help review the performance of the Panny 50S10 in their home? in darkened room? thanks

I have viewed a 42S10 in a darkened room. What exactly are you looking for? I can help answer some questions.

@anfieldude

Basically,
-the black level performance...does the grey looking black become real black in a darkened room
-Sharpness and detail....does Hidef movies shine in this plasma
-brightness.....is it dim, or is it bright and have enough pop....
-overall picture quality.
Since I now own a Samsung A series LCD, and looking to switch to Plasma. But a bit afraid the picture quality wont be to my liking as
I am used to the sharpness and detail of an LCD.....
Perhaps if you can also a comparison between the Panny G/V and the Samsung B6/B8 plasmas?

Looking to justify the price difference of those higher priced plasmas

THanks!

1stly plasma vey rarely have blacks looking gray in a darkened room. All fixed panel displays should not be viewed in a pitch black room. The best for you would be to have a low level light behind the display in a fully darkened room. The only display technology that should be viewed in a pitch black room is a projector.

The S10 I viewed after calibration has very good performance in a dark environment.

Sharpness - there is a difference between LCD and plasma in this regards. Plasma's refresh methods makes it closest to how the projector would display the image. Very film like, LCDs refresh differently, hence the pictures are oversharpened. This can be set to be as neutral as possible.

Details - there should be no difference between LCD and plasma and this depends on the source. Don't confuse details with sharpness. As long as the display's brigtness and contrasts are set correctly, the details will be as the director intended.

Pop - Pop is a loose term. The 3D image "pop" is actually a function of contrast ratio. It is also how you set the gamma of a display. If set correctly, "pop" should be there. One way of getting artificial pop is to jack up contrast too high. Then black details appear washed out. S10 shd have no problems with this.

I would suggest you decide if you like the look of a plasma then make the decision. If you are used to viewing films/movies in a correctly set/calibrated display then you might like plasma more. If you like the way an LCD looks, get an LCD.

The only issue with the S10 is that it has a slight green tint in the darker areas. This can be calibrated out.

I have not seen a Panny G/V or the Samsung B6/B8 plasmas yet, I can only comment the picture post calibration. Showroom environments are deceiving.

Yes, it is less reflective than the S

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Added on July 28, 2009, 9:15 pmI can confirm with Ronaldjoe. The Samsung is really black.

This post has been edited by michaeltan1943: Jul 28 2009, 09:15 PM

Hey guys, can we play PS2 games on the Plasma? I am concerned if my son plays on it non-stop for 2 3 hours continously! Ya know how kids are right.

2 or 3 hours non-stop shouldn't be a problem

@anfieldude

Thanks for the info. I guess you are right, that show room performance is deceiving, causing plasmas looking dim and grey compared to LCDs.

Its good to hear from someone who actually have seen the 50S10 in a normal room environment. Will go again to store and do a comparison

fyi,
i did run my plasma for >2days non stop... no problem

2 days only? When I first got my X10, I left mine on for a week for break-in running the break-in images looping.

mysai, i think u can break kianwee record... dont worry ma especially if ur tv still under warranty

Just watch out for the electricity bills

Apologies for the noob question, but is break-in necessary for all plasmas?

All Pros will tell you yes, but realistically, just enjoy yr TV like you used to lah, just avoid static pictures.

Not really necessary. As LoneWolf says, try to avoid prolonged black bars and static channel logos for the 1st 50 hrs or so of the plasma's life. This is when the phospours are at their infancy and more prone to the dreaded "burn in". Most new displays have some kind of pixel shifter or orbiter that I suggest you turn on for the 1st 200-300hrs.

The break in images are to age all the pixels evenly. This helps to bring the phospours past the infancy. The other reason is that it takes time for the the phospours to set in, just like CRT. The 1st 50 or so hours you will see what is known as fizzing pixels and the picture might not be as sharp. This will settle down as th phospors age.

So to answer you it is recommended but not necessary.

OK, thanks, you guys the pros as usual

They are not just pros but ELITE as well

Actually 2 topics need to be pinned by moderator, firstly, How to Break In, Step by Step and secondly, how to check usage counter.

Sammy Plasma B650 arrive in Penang already?