Yes, quite true. Especially if many of the peaks are flattened then they will wonder what happened.

Thankfully in going from the 12Q to the Rythmik I didn't perceive any loss of bass. Quite the opposite, the bass is now more articulate and while it is cleaner, I don't detect any loss. If anything, there is more bass since the Rythmik extends much deeper in room compared to the 12Q.



How would you run just the lower frequencies hotter? I suppose an eq device is needed? I still need to read up on this house curve thing.

Ha-ha, you truly deserve to be called the Chief Poisoner.

With your SVS dealership I think you managed to do the most amount of damage to the forummers' wallets.

I found out that the F15 max clean output at 20Hz (per CEA-2010 standard @ 1m) is about 103 dB.

Really? Who?

So serious ah? I thought only the plate amp would be fried.

Yup a responsible vendor ought to do that.

Obviously Mark set ronn's Submersive to 230V before hand... otherwise we can hear ronn crying from here once he turned on. Same with my Rythmik, it was already set to 230V when it arrived. I made sure to check before plugging it in

Yeah, I wonder who will be the first to get one of these...

We want you to be very, very, very happy

You're not one who needs help with finances...

Wah, look at how the SVS owners list has grown! Congrats to the owners and to htkaki.

Yes, you can visit his place to demo... it's in Seremban.

No need to have big demo room. Best is try to approximate room size that most customers would have. I think about +/- 200 sq ft is ok.

The $90 shipping is to MY?

Key statement is: if no tax.

I would agree with the bold part and I think those points contribute a lot to tightness, boominess and flabbiness.

However, there is one other factor not mentioned in Axiom's article and this directly relates to the sub, not the room or cross over points or placement. It's about the sub's group delay. I don't fully understand the subject but here's an article about it: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/GroupDelay.pdf

See also these 2 threads:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/subwoofers-...ofer-types.html
http://www.avforums.com/forums/subwoofers-...asurements.html

Some relevant excerpts from there:

The qualities are exactly the same, because accurate reproduction of the original signal is required for satisfying reproduction of both program types; All subs should offer low distortion, high dynamic headroom, wide bandwidth (at both frequency extremes) and finally, low group delay which is basically a smooth phase response. Nail all of those and you have an 'uber' sub.

However, perfection costs and so, inevitably, one or more of those performance boxes may go un-ticked, especially once a 'domestic' size restriction is added to the equation.

The movie compromise will typically favour low frequency grunt and big dynamics and worry less about upper frequency cleanliness and low group delay. The movie sub will tend to be a large ported box, with a large driver and with a fair bit of power on tap.

Music will tend to miss the last half octave less and typically isn't played at the same volume as movies, so hides a lack power in a more flattering way. It also really needs clean upper bass to blend with the main speakers and the snappy timing delivered by a low group delay. The music sub will tend to be a smaller sealed box, sporting a moderately sized driver and moderate power.

The best sub is probably a very large sealed sub with a large driver(s) and oodles of power. They exist and they are expensive.

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The measured response of a subwoofer's phase is it's Group Delay and for all the things some so called 'musical' subs do wrong, they almost universally have a low group delay, or at least as importantly, they have a very smoothly changing Group Delay.

Unfortunately, this is not a trait the SVS PB12/plus has. It has a steeply rising group delay that actually exceeds 1 cycle (360deg!) of phase beneath 25Hz. If that wont make your kick drums sound like they're lagging, I don't know what will. You know where to look to see the evidence.

In the 'One Sub v Two' thread, the PB12/U bested my humble Monolith in all film related qualities, but with music, it singularly failed to rock my boat, for exactly this reason - it just didn't have the rhythmic drive. The PB13/U is a significant step forward in this regard and I don't think it's a coincidence that it has a very flat response and a low smoothly rising group delay, particularly in the universally preferred 15Hz tune.

Say, do you have spl meter to test how loud you're listening now?

Easiest is simply turn down the volume.

Otherwise buying something like the Subdude might help.

Try cushioning your door with those little foam pads (you can buy in Home Fix, Ace, or other hardware store). Stick it on the door frame and it might help absorb the vibrations.

Or you can turn down the sub volume

If his is a dedicated room, then removing the door removes the seal also. Means sub has to work harder to pressurise the room because there is an opening now.

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Added on October 11, 2009, 7:58 pmGoogle is your good friend... try searching for Subdude

This post has been edited by jchong: Oct 11 2009, 07:58 PM

Wah, glad to know the EQ1 is so effective!

This is testing using the EQ1 test tone or the Onkyo's test tone? I believe hitting 75dB using the Onkyo test tone is possible right?

Maybe the EQ1 test tone is a -20dB signal instead of -30dB like in the Onkyo? Just speculating...

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Added on October 12, 2009, 12:41 pmI read somewhere that they are not interchangeable...

This post has been edited by jchong: Oct 12 2009, 12:41 PM

Flapping sound? Doesn't seem normal... I'm also curious what it could be. Happens on both rear speakers? Or just 1 of them?