Yap...sometimes HardwareMonitor would suddenly popup its emergency screen and disrupt my gaming sessions (which is sim-racing) and thats really frustating...

Not mine ler....mine not as nice as the one I posted...

Summore using stock cooling only...

Me too having a hard time determining which is which....

p/s: why can't I upload anything!!!!!

Can't even post the screenie of my temps... Wimax is damn today....

Nvm lar...manually put
Current on Prime...

Temps

AMD Overdrive


CPU Core 1: 50c
CPU Core 2: 50c

TMPIN1: 93c
TMPIN2: 39c (I think this is the ambient sensor a.k.a mobo temp)
TMPIN3: 57c

CPUID Hardware Monitor


CPU Core 1: 50c
CPU Core 2: 50c

TMPIN1: 93c
TMPIN2: 39c
TMPIN3: 57c

Basically the same as AMD Overdrive

Hardware Monitor (Comes together with the Motherboard CD)


Sys Temp:39c
CPU Temp: 57c



So I'm guessing Hardware Monitor (Biostar Included Software) reads the TMPIN3 and TMPIN2 but not TMPIN 1....But that is only after I flashed to Bios 18/Feb/09...The stock Bios (the Jan 09) didn't have any readings of 93c at all.....and the TMPIN numbers are 0,1,2 as opposed to the newer bios which is 1,2,3











This post has been edited by antonio: May 8 2009, 05:22 AM

Test upload SS for crazy temps...test test test



Yessssss...tonite can upload./...yoohoooo

So, anyone want to do an cross reference investigation regarding which is which...

This post has been edited by antonio: May 9 2009, 01:56 AM

I dunno...never use the onboard GFX because I use a PCIe card....

This habit from my NF3/4 days...

When I want to overclock, i usually start from the bios...overclock from windows is just fine tuning but after testing and getting the results, i will apply the settings to the Bios and save it...make sure you save the overclock Bios settings in the 10 memory banks provided...and don't forget to right down every settings to avoid confusion or forgetting when CMOS have to be cleared..

Disable:

Floppy
Serial, Printer, and other ports that you might use once every two years....
Onboard stuffs that you don't need, like me for instance, sound,vga,Lan, etc
Disable any power saving features such as CnQ and other schnanigans that might interfere with your overclocking...


After that manually input all the settings to default...Not by loading default settings, but by selecting or determining each and every value manually...such as

CPU: Stock lets say 1.3v, so you put 1.3v
Ram: Lets say you are running normal DDR2 667 rams, then set it to 1.8v
NB/Chipset: I don't have the exact value so I put there 1.3v, although some might say that stock voltage is around 1.2v or 1.4v....
HT : The same with NB, I put 1.3v
Set the HTT value to 200

Set HT to X4 or 1600Mhz
Set NB also to 1600Mhz (Which you can change later after finding the limit...

Set your rams....

Learn what chip and set it according to templates which can be found by googling around...although different rams may have different results. but similar chipsets don't vary that much...Like for instance last time a 3.3v BH5 chipset from windbond, some people need only 3.3v while others maybe needs 3.4 or 3.5v depending on the module manufacturer...All and all, they all reach around 250Mhz with 2-2-2-5 timings...some even 275mhz with 2-2-2-5 timings...

Then after input all the timing values....now you can proceed with your overclocking....Depending on which you would like to start first, you can either start with raising CPU multi to look for your CPU limit at a voltage value that you set just now...lets say for me stock would be 2.7 and after raising the multi to reach 3.3, windows just will not boot...I lower it down to 3.2 and prime it to see if its stable, if not, lower down multi again till priming is stable...use small FFTs to allow the CPU to be tortured to the max...I find that 3.1 at 1.4 is stable, so when I raise the HTT, I will avoid exceeding 3.1Ghz.....

then after you have found your highest Multi settings, time to lower it and play with HTT...this is in my opinion, the most challenging part in overclocking as it involves the PSU, CPU, Ram, NB, VRM and sometimes your hard drive....

Finding the highest HTT is another different story...the only reason people use HTT to overclock is to allow the rams to be push to a higher bandwidth....lets say a DDR2 800mhz will give around 7GB of bandwidth, so when we push to 850, 880 or 900, we increase the amount of bandwidth which allows more data transfer...yields better performance....to go to 900 you just need 25HTT increase....

Like me I'm at 940Mhz;


This post has been edited by antonio: May 9 2009, 03:06 AM

Don't hate the player, hate the game

Btw, no results yet from me as I'm running close to 2.9Ghz with DDR964@4-4-4 with stock vcore (1.296v stock ker?) and 2.0v for the rams...

I need to beef up cooling as upping to 1.35v vcore will result of an idle temp at 55c.... two hours of prime with open sidepanel, close to 70c

If close side panel even worse...inside case temp reach up to 40c....


Still googling for a suitable cooler...should I go for the Thermalright True, IPX-14, CM V8, Xigmatek HDT-S1283, Prolimatech Megahalems or just get me a Sunbeam CCF which is almost half the price but gets the job done definitely nonetheless....

A kancil turbo or Smart fortwo?? both do 140kmh, both small car, only one is xpensive and the other is cheaper by more than half but gets you to the destination at a similar pace... hmmmmm



This post has been edited by antonio: May 11 2009, 03:28 AM

Probably want to sell off mine....Biostar TA790GX 128M and Athlon X2 Kuma 7750 (Phenom) hihihihih

10 days use, proc and mobo got around 2 to 3 years warranty left....

Wanna go D and X3 together with 4Gb...upgrading to 64bit....

found a 0904 X3....

This post has been edited by antonio: May 11 2009, 09:48 PM

Only fly news 'proven' unlockable...but still dunno yet...maybe yes maybe not...but there is still one core more and provides extra grunt when two cores already working to the max...hihihihih

Btw the proc in question is X3 720 BE

Maybe you didn't install it correctly or the thermal interface (thermal paste) hasn't yet set completely...

And dont 'Once' thing that large heatsinks bring miracles....

The purpose of us changing to a larger or better cooler is actually to lower our load temps compared to the stock cooling....

The ambient temp (or sometimes in-case temp) plays a very significant role in determining the overall load temp...

To make you understand better, imagine you are sitting in your classroom (gov school)...the are a lots of fans right...

But if the ambient temps is high, no matter how fast you spin up the fan, it won't feel as cool as spinning at a early morning when the ambient temp is much lower...

So, the lowering of 5c to 15c would be in the ballpark of determining that your new cooler is working...if not, only a mere 1-3c less, than you should either reinstall, lap it or get yourself a new cooler....

For example when I first use the stock cooler, with the stock thermal interface, my temps would jump right up above 73c during load and take around 30minutes after running it...Due to the high temp reading, I took it out and reapply a rice sized Cooler Master Nano Fusion (not adervertising ehh ) and reinstall the cooler back... You may use other brands that you are comfortable with and achieve similar if not better results...after the thermal paste sets around a couple of hours, my load temps now has dropped to 59c...taken 30minutes after Prime test started...


This post has been edited by antonio: May 12 2009, 05:20 PM

Yap...it could be thermal paste related...try getting the good ones (I dont know which is the good once nowadays, during my time it was the Artic Silver 5 ) and reapply a rice sized....no need to go banzai with a splash of thermal paste....

Sounds like the airflow isnt going out as quick it should....

For the time being, open the side panel, look at both exhaust fans, try to out any filters that might restrict the air flow....further more, important to understand that exhausting the hot air out is more important than having too much air being sucked in...the exhaust flow also should be too close to the wall as cause the rear part of the casing to heat up, thanks to the hot air...if can, try having the exhaust towards vents such as windows to enable the hot air out from the room and heating it up...

But, before we can give any more comments, where is the pic of your casing???

ahhh....now i get it....

Why your cooler is positioned to push air to the GC???the GC is a furnace and you shouldnt place your heat from towards a heat source....

and why is your side panel pushing out air???

This is my setup....stock cooler soon to be replace by CCF...in 12 hours time...









i got two 80 Sunons blowing out heat, 1 blower also helps to flow GC heat before it spreads above, another two 80mm Sunons and a Cooler Master 80 clear fan at the front along with a 120mm Thermaltake fan....the TT fan is high speed and can suck in cool air for the PSU area....

On the chipset a fan taken from I forget where, helps to cool the NB chip considerably well...

This post has been edited by antonio: May 13 2009, 02:33 AM

I'm ol'skool and for that my casing also ol'skool....

It is known as the Dragon....it is higher than a 24 inch LCD monitor placed vertically beside it...

I mean you should not place you fan to suck from a heat source like for example in your case, the GC....

And looking at it, i think you have installed the heatsink horizontally and not vertically....which is why it is pointing up and down instead of pointing to the front and the rear case....

Look at the not so sophisticated sketch i did using your image,...




As you can see there is;

-green, red and blue arrows

The green represents cool air while red is hot air... while the blue is you fan placements....

note that the red arrow is pointing to the rear of the case and up...this is because the 'proper' orientation of a heatsink is east west not north south...

As for now leave it to exhaust first your sidepanel fan...after you buy your thermal paste, then you can change back to induce configuration...

After you have purchase the TIM, you should refer to your heatsink manual on how to change the orientation of your cooler to the correct placement...Open it up and clean the sink and the processor surface, then reapply the paste and then make sure your heatsink orientation has been configure correctly....

This post has been edited by antonio: May 13 2009, 03:25 AM

Looking at his configuration, my bet is the heat from the CPU is pushed downwards to the GC....but heat doesnt stays down that long as it will rise back up causing the less cool air to be available in the casing....

Exhaust on the side? or the back??

Do you have a exhaust fan?? IMHO its better to have good exhaust flow to help reduce the in-casing temperature....



Usually good quality mobo with decent components and updated bios, can help to achieve good overclocking results... Usually the processor is holding the overclocking back and once you hit the wall, you should know what to do next....

Owh....ok

this pic is an example of how the V8 will disperse the heat towards the rear of the casing..


http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/251775-2...nstall-pictures

CCF has been installed (arrived yesterday)






1.535v in bios
1.500v in reported by HWMonitor in Windows

Shaved more than 20c off the stock cooler