Thanks. It can still be improved for better definition and punch.

Use muscle power, what else?

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Added on January 3, 2012, 11:33 pmAll depends on how much you want to spend. The better SPL meters are slightly more accurate, have wider range. For general purposes the Radio Shack meter is widely used. You can something higher up there is the Galaxy CM140.

This post has been edited by jchong: Jan 3 2012, 11:33 PM

Got the center which matches my Synchrony mains.

Indeed. All speakers and sub from Paradigm Signature range.

Yes, some people report good results with solid core cable. Again there is opinion either way on solid vs stranded.

I've never tried solid core cable before. So what kind did you get?

Is the solid core copper cable expensive?

I see you have the 1st gen 8TC (blue black weave). The current gen is clear and white I think.

Yeah, that's not too expensive. About same price as 4TC. Will drop by next time to listen.

Haha, you certainly are accumulating lots of audio gear. Not only cables

Ha-ha, I guessed it was the XLO since you mentioned so many good things about it before. It's the next step up from the 8TC.

Wah, what monoblocks did you get?

Same people who customised the 3-channel power amp?

Must check it out next time I'm in PJ.

What AVR are you using the pro kit with?

Good to know the Pro Kit works with the 4311 (MY or SG set I assume?). Earlier when I asked Audyssey, they said the MY/SG set for 4311 does not support the pro kit.

Normally when people are talking about pre-amp and power amp they might be referring to a stereo set up (for hifi purposes). In the context of HT, they normally call the pre-amp a pre-pro or AV controller.

Anyway, if you decide to add a power amp you can still use your LX82 since it has pre outs. It means the amp section inside the LX82 is not used.

1) NAD is a fairly well known brand. But don't know how good is their AVR. You should google for reviews about the T748. One thing is the power of 7x40W (all channels driven) seems a bit low.

2) I'd say start with a basic HDMI cable first. There's a thread on the topic of HDMI cables. Many people are happy with the cheap one bought from the hypermarket (for like under RM20).

3) Woofer cable. Again, at this stage no need to spend much on it.

4) If you already have a blu ray player why buy another DVD player? Yeah Oppo brand is good.

Yeah, the problem is many of the Japanese brand AVRs do not give realistic power figures. That's why should check those reviews (which are few) that do a bench test and measure it properly with all channels driven and a quoted THD level.

As you said some AVRs only test at half the quoted power. The better ones can get to about 80% of quoted power. For example the Onkyo 609 which is rated at 100W. From the bench test by Home Theater Magazine:

Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 81.0 watts
1% distortion at 95.1 watts

Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 77.7 watts
1% distortion at 88.9 watts

Firstly, it's not just about watts. Power output is one factor only, but there are others like current delivery, damping factor, S/N ratio, etc...

Of course generally when you're thinking of upgrading to a power amp you want the power amp to be better in all respects than your AVR. In general a power amp would have more scope for improvement - having more robust power supply, better parts, more heatsinking, etc. This means that it is likely to be more expensive than the AVR.

If you want value, there are some value oriented brands out there too like Emotiva.

The improvement is probably due to improvement in the processing section as well as power section of the LX82 over the 508. It's not just about more power.

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Added on January 29, 2012, 9:34 pmGood suggestion there. Is it "only" 8k+ locally? Thought it was more expensive than that.

This post has been edited by jchong: Jan 29 2012, 09:34 PM

The RMB-1575 is a 5 channel power amp.

I wouldn't say the noise floor is that bad. Had an Emotiva before, paired with 90dB efficient speakers. If you put your ear right next to the speaker can hear a faint hiss. Go 1-2 feet away cannot hear already.

Not mute. Just power on system without anything playing. AVR volume at -10dB.