will explain 3 of them

2. Block : It's the place where the mixture of air + petrol will be compressed by the piston and the spark plug will ignite the spark so that the mixture will burn and consequently it will push the piston downward, moving the connecting rod altogether. The bigger the diameter of the block, the bigger the room for the combustion chamber = higher power output. Among the components in the block is piston, cam, valve and few others.

3. CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) : This performs just like an ECU or 'brain' for our bike. It will determine the best ignition curve for the engine, newer model had a greater cut-off (the RPM max point your bike can reach, lower than the actual potential) than the older model. So the using of aftermarket CDI is the option for most LC owners.

4. TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) : It's a small sensor located beside the carb. It will detects the way the throttle is pulled, and it will sends signals to the CDI so that the best ignition curve could be determined by the CDI.


correct me if I'm wrong, just wrote what I know

eh, me not pro la, newbies also
there charge and samba more pro than me

anyway, I never like law. but more to machine and engine

no problem bro, just sharing what I know.
and even our current bike is slow (lotsa cut-off nowadays, haizz), it's still manage to tapau other brands' stock bike on the road

actually, regular change on EO and oil filter (OF) (it's OF, not air filter actually. air filter is located under the center cover ) is already enough. that's if you're regular user, not those long distance or rempit one la . if you read LC user's manual, stated there it's not recommended to ride the bike on the constant speed (e.g 100km/h all the way). so play a lil bit with the throttle, but not lenjan your bike full throttle often

and remember to use standard grade EO, not low grade or cheapo EO such as rm8 shell VSX one. that will make the knocking sound much louder, some said that in long time it will make the valve bengkok.

for the coolant, HLY's foreman said that it is recommended to flush out the coolant after 15k of use, even though there're still a lot of them (not even 'low' level). forgot to ask him why was that.

oh yeah, your bike is still under 'pantang' rite? hehehe.. so never push the bike to its limit. for the 1st service (either 500km or 1000km, depends on your pocket ), it's recommended to use mineral-base EO first. this is to remove the machinery leftover such as grains of metal in the engine efficiently.

yeah, if you open the center cover, you can see a small black sensor on top right of the carb.

better take off and display all the components inside the engine

hahaha... when disassemble the coverset, for sure there are 2 or 3 screws lebih liao

swing arm is the metal bar that 'holds' the rear tire. among the components it housed is sprocket and rear disc brake caliper (if got). it also support the monoshock.

hehe.. no problem mate,
just sharing what I know

actually not every month, but depends on the type of EO (either full syn or semi syn or mineral-based) and also the way you ride. if you're those hardcore long distance rider (more than 2k km per month), then it's recommended to change the EO every 1500 or 2000 km.

same goes for the type of EO. some full synthetic EO can be used up to 7000-8000 km (a friend of mine used Selenia Linx Full-Syn EO, he changed the EO after 8000 km of use ). but 3000km is the best spot to change the EO (tested by bro charge) even though it can be used up to 7000 km. more than 4000 km, our bike will become sluggish and the performance drops because the EO had become too thick.

for the OF, as the name, its function is to filter the EO. so there're maybe engine dirts and leftover stuck in the OF, also a lot of previously used EO that was left in the OF. so it's recommended to change the OF altogether with the EO


yes, 15km on the odometer. flush the old one and fill in a totally new coolant.
but don't worry, original coolant only cost you around rm18-20


I think it got written on the packaging either full syn, semi syn or mineral-based.

about the recommended EO, I think it's a subjective matter. there's no specific brand, maybe the EO I used is the best for my ride but not yours. seems hard to decide rite? but look for others' opinion too. for the time being, avoid Motul H-Tec 100 EO because it will make the engine's knocking sound louder. me and my friend had experienced this so please avoid them.

among the recommended EO is Motul 5100 (semi-syn, around rm38-40), Castrol 'cicak' (not sure bout the price), Selenia Linx (currently use - full-syn, rm33-37), Silkolene (wide range, not sure bout model. price around rm35-45) and the best is Motul 300V Factory Line (freaking expensive, roughly more than rm90 for a litre ).


no need la, wait until 500km or 1000 km first then only change to mineral-based EO.

welcome mate
I know a group of LCians there, named LC Kelantan Crew (LCKC). do you know any of them?

me from terengganu la

i see.. hahaha. now its the time to play around with the bike lol
click here for the LCKC thread on KOM135.


no problem mate

hehe, not sure bout the EOs but most of my buddies never use those Shell VSX or other cheapo EO. mininum grade used is Motul 3100.


oppsssiee.. typo liao
it's actually 15 000km of use, not 15km. if 15km then mati liao


hehe.. that's true. so far, I think LC has the most vast and various type of accessories available,
not only for exterior or cosmetics but also for the engine

1 - refer to my post on the previous page
2 - depends, if you feel wanna more pickup then upgrade to bigger rear sprocket (either 41 or 42, stock 39)
3 - around rm12-15 only, but the radiator cover+additional mesh is a lil bit more I think.
4 - not sure, last time my friend bought it for rm13 only.

welcome mate. hahaha.. lucky la you, your dad also has the rider's spirit

anyway, where's your location and when the bike was purchased?
you might be lucky if it's 1st batch one

yeah, totally agree. the older fella is cool and usually not very serious, but the younger officer is
and also the purpose of the roadblock. if it's anti-rempit one then should be very strict, my friend kena saman for his rear disc

I see.. want to rawng few times in a year
and yeah, the first batch of LC ES can easily go beyond 150km/h.

actually its a subjective thing. if you see the rear sprocket becomes 'sharp' and sometimes riding becomes buggy, then it's the time to change the sprocket because it's worn out already. rough estimation, stock sprocket set can be used up to 15k km if it's well taken care of. but if the chain was left un-lube until rust, then better change it. so, don't lazy in lubing the chain.

actually the clutch version (we call it ES) had a thinner clutch plate than the non-clutch (SS) version.
so the rough sound you heard from most ES bike is the clutch plate that vibrate in the engine. rougher engine sound,
that's all I think ES loose from SS version.

for the pros and cons of the LC, try google it.

for me, the downside is LC got a lot of aftermarket parts. they had made a big hole in my pocket

added already liao
yours one is ES or SS version? from the colour scheme, I guess it's SS rite?

hehehe.. no problem mate, just sharing what I know

yo mate,
i'm in K. Terengganu, just before the city town

p/s : oit, lama tak sembang.. hehehe

you mean the pilot and mainjet screw? if yes, it's located on the left hand side of the bike (from the riding position). there's a small tringular hole just below the center cover. take a peek inside, and you could see 2 gold-coloured screw. on the right is mainjet screw and on the left is pilot screw. to adjust the idle timing, turn the right screw anti-clockwise

man.. felt sorry for you mate

hahaha.. long time no see you mate

hows your ride? still can hit 160km/h like those old days?

hahaha.. free adverts meh?

oi oi.. why me pulak?














hahahaha.. i'm noob in using PS

hehe. depends on your pocket actually
it needs up to 2-3 EO changing process to completely clean up and remove the dirt in the engine.

no la, me noob only mah

haha. last time bought mine (parents bought for me act ), the price around rm5.7k only.
now already increase to rm6.5k

i think you're pro in PS. what about if you're the one who design them?

not very sure, those said before is a rough estimation only.
if you're lucky, your bike may hit 160km/h

yeah, most 1st batch can easily reach 180km/h without any problems.
jealous liao

but using 1st batch CDI is not enough liao. if you take a close look, 1st batch bike are using different carb (the pilot jet screw is located further 'inside' than the other batch). the wiring system is also different.

added already

for me, i'll change the OF among with the EO. that cost me around rm50+ each service
the liquid coolant should be replaced (fully, not just add) after 15 000km of use.

that's because it comes with bracket. the ES original disc doesn't, this is because the bracket and mounting is different from SS model. so basically if you want to use original (not Y-Tec) ES disc, then you should change it along with ES fork + ES caliper.

sorry mate, not very sure bout the price.

lol.. no need la. the coolant could be used up to 20k km, but the recommended time to change it around 15 000km.
my bike nearly hit 13 000km ATM, but the coolant still on 3/4 level