yes, expensive.. but kelisa engine... is quite high static compression... 10:1... eventhough not high as K20a-R which is at 11.7:1... needs a high ron number ... to prevent engine knocking which lead to engine damage..

if u use ron95.. engine knock sensor detect knocking.. ecu will be injecting more fuel.. and i believe if the engine is toward 'rich' mixture wont get the AFR perfectly and there will be power loss..so do when knocking/pinging... engine also lost power...

like my force induction kancil will knock by using ron95 at 7.5krpm.... so there will be no 'worthy' term anymore with ron95...

auto and manual share same radiator eventhough auto has an extra ATF fluid running at the bottom of radiator...

but one thing i cant confirm whether stock kancil auto having double layer radiator or single layer radiator..

but for better output of cooling effect i'd suggest u get Mira aluminium radiator.. it got alu fins...

how to identify, the fin are silver colored and very sharp fins..

This is aluminium fins radiator from my L500 turbo.


'Fat' Fan from L500 series...4 wire


Comparison between stock kancil or L200 radiator fan... sorry i already take out the motor just left out the frame...


This is 4 wire motor with 4pin socket


This is 4 wire motor with 2pin socket. Plug n Play to L200/Kancil Wiring...

*Note..: some Last model of L200s TUrbo may also use 4 wire radiator fan*

4 wire fat motor
>4 pin socket normally what shop call 2 speed.. normal idling(w/o a.c turned on) fan run in lower speed mode.. with a.c turned on.. fan spins faster.. u can hear the whining sound..
>2 pin socket directly spin like u turn on aircond with 4pin socket... even u idling.. this fan very good upgrade for stock kancil... no need 're wiring'

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Added on December 10, 2010, 7:09 pmEF-coded block having 8k redline...
JB-coded block having 8.5k redline...

hehehe.. im just trying to say that i always utilize this range of RPM... so that i can reach more than 140kmh in 3rd gear of 4speed autobox.... 4th gear L500 definitely for highway cruising.. 100kmh just at 3.5k RPM....

u still can use RON95, but use not for 'whacking' the engine... sometimes i run ron95 too as if the petrol station dont supply ron97 and im in need of petrol.. have to purchase ron95 jugakkk... hahahha..

This post has been edited by detomaso: Dec 10 2010, 07:09 PM

the engine are designed that way.. daihatsu put rev limiter at 9k rpm.. so 8k rpm u dont have to worry.. just a faster wear and tear lah hahahahha.....


this is not my vid... but enjoy L500 everybody~~

for time being i rather stick to EF-series.. the parts are easier and mostly interchangeable with kancil,viva,kelisa/kenari...
for example the head gasket, conrod+main bearing, if conrod and main bearing are the same.. shud say the crank and con rod and other parts are very source-able..

for JB-series,yes.. the best as the smooth sound of 4 piston engine..
the part can be found u have to dig information from sparepart runner to get the best... plus for time being the part i can get for JB engine
is top overhaul set... for the block area part i dont have idea.. for piston i heard they can put in 66.6mm piston(850 std size)... and brings the cc from 164.83cc/each piston up to 196.48cc/each piston.. and make the engine close to 800cc .. but i never seen this mod on JB block yet.. as the info i get is from Sabahan forum as a member there rebuild is JB-engine...but for conrod+main bearing... i have no idea... if ur intention to use the JB engine as stock as come from halfcut.. its ok... but for further upgrades or GILA KUASA on JB.. then u have think twice..

i have to know the information on sparespart since i have both engine... EF are installed to my kancil.. the JB are installed to my mum kelisa... .



kelisa with JB-DET

-Spark plug = NGK BKR8EIX (daily use)..what i found from my halfcut.. BKUR7EK ... lost my phone where i save the code.. but the s/plug got cross reference with BMW R850R or R1100 super bikes.. hehehe...but change to iridium better la..
-Alternator = i use kelisa
-compressor = denso.. from kancil..
-timing belt set= viva 660 106.. timing belt seal(cam/crank) also same viva or kelisa...
-valve seal .. one size smaller than kelisa.. can fit kelisa but easy to pull out...so better find a little smaller...
-headgasket..= kelisa one can use.. but kelisa is on 72mm bore.. try to cari viva 660 gasket.. where the bore is 68mm...
- intake and exhaust manifold gasket=kelisa/kenari/viva

if u willing to travel lil bit far i wud reckon u somewhere in subang.. where i transplanted the kelisa.. 5 days finished including dismantling original kelisa engine.. dismantling halfcut.. and start the new engine in the kelisa engine bay... they are kancil hardcore i wud says...

nice to hear that.. happy boosting...

Jason,

here is the address...

JDM Garage
No 81, Jalan Pluto U5/AZ, Seksyen U5 Bandar Pinggiran Subang, 40150 Shah Alam..

u may give a visit first ask the Chief mechanic named JEP or CHEP.. he very friendly..

and for halfcut thingy..
please dont jeopardize ur money by buying ur own halfcut... u might get it cheaper.. but may endup worst than ur current engine.

ask foreman for the best deal they can give.. from halfcut finding.. till can drive the car.. if they looking up for u.. u ask them to insist for a personal warranty...like a week period..when the foreman looking up for u.. they basically knowns the engine condition far better than u... plus the foreman more likely get special deal lah..most of current halfcut shop wont give warranty if WE are d walk in customer do start-up the engine at halfcut shop.. as they(workshop) are regular customer to halfcut shop. halfcut shop wud treat differently

if u wanna look out for ur self ...

1) check mileage.. the best are less than 50k ... ok ok less than 100k .. the acceptable 150k...
2) outlook of engine bay... clean doesnt mean the engine is healthy .. dark doesnt mean the engine is bad...check underneath halfcut for scratch.. and oil sump.. got leaking or not..
3) open oil cap.. see the 'inner' part of the engine.. if the inside of engine very dark.. mean the car already long time not start or previous owner dont meet regular servicing schedule...
4) turbine.. pull turbine hose that are from air filter... u normally can move the turbine blade/fin with ur fingers.. if its smooth .. more likely the turbine is in good.. if not moving.. the turbine is jammed.. if can move but feel harsh.. either going to kong.. or the engine havent start for long time as oil around turbine shaft already dried up... might give a start.. check for whitesmoke.. whitesmoke also can means lots of thing.. like we always know la.. piston ring.. valve seal.. check during engine start up
5) wiring.. touch the wire .. feel its.. go to brand new car showroom.. feels how brand new wiring feels like.. go open ur current engine.. feels the different between new wiring and old wiring.. old wiring has a 'crispy' or 'harden' feeling.. errr.. plus.. make sure engine wiring dun have cut and tape wires.. and it shud in place ... means the halfcut never touch wiring.. it looks like baru keluar kilang..
6) switch... feels all switch are smooth ... like signal switch.. aircond switch.. shud move like new..
7) pop a battery in the halfcut...turn on d ignition key... all dashboard panel shud lighted up...
8) a start.. fuel the halfcut and make the engine start... hear the engine sound during startup.. how the starter sound.. strong or what.. the engine sound.. smooth or rough... the gearbox sound.. for auto.. if got hissing metal sound from the gearbox.. ok .. AVOID the halfcut.. hows the idling.. got up and down ka... now can test aircond section.. u can turn on the aircond.. see whether the aircond are working fine... blast to d max.. but the cooling wont get so cold la.. because aircond are sucking open air.. not like in a car condition right... check meter panel light... let idling for a while and hear 1st spin of radiator fan.. means the radiator or cooling section dont have problem laa..normally tempreture meter for L5 showing half mark..
L2 almost half...for something like driveshaft.. check whther the boot cover are torn or still ok... if torn possibility rosak also got.. as sand already in there

even they started the engine.. u still can refuse the halfcut if u not so convinced with the halfcut...

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Added on December 16, 2010, 8:36 pm after convertion of my kancil ... no leak around engine side la.. this havent wash the engine yet la.. from halfcut direct pop in da hood...look all over .. like no oil leak

after wash...

same goes to my mum kelisa on previous page.. that picture also taken right after came out from the workshop...

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Added on December 16, 2010, 9:12 pm
my 'late' L2

This post has been edited by detomaso: Dec 16 2010, 09:12 PM

i mean.. rpm jumping up and down... hehehe... if everything were stock w/o problem it shudnt be there.. .. unless talking abt hi cams..

hehe.. yep .. L7/L9 compressor is a bit bigger from L2/L5...


my kelisa L900 can get 8C(at aircond vent there) idling in hot sunny

come i suggest u all a shop.. a bit expensive. but their work are superb.. selayang area..

just find 4wire-2pin 'fat' motor laaa... also same..no need wiring..

d 4wire-4pin motor only mode when the fan spins... idling no aircond lower fan speed... turn on aircond.. uber fast... hehehe

u still have to get the 'frame'

i dont u ask me... i got 2 fat motor rad fan here.. ehehhe...

not so compared to stock L2s ARB.

yes it is..
it hold 'outer' side of the suspension part were holds d absorber and tires...

where UR arb hold 'inner' side.. am i rite?... thus not much improvement can be felt

how to explain this..

err..

ok .. simple.. L2s ARB are tighted at body where UR's ARB are based on otherside lower arm as its just a simple connecting 2 lower arm...


so L2s ARB are likely has more limited movement around the suspension part

...

i drived my kancil are UR bar ones.. like on da picture u posted and i also drive my fren with L2s ARB

his car are more superior during cornering.. where my car suxxs eventho im on HWL adjustable .. and my friend just on L6 stock abs / spring!!..

both are 13 incher~~... phew... L2s arb are stiffer

both my ride are equipped with HWL..

on kelisa default hwl spring are hard.. most of kelisa owner change the spring rate of default hwl for kelisa is somewhere 7-8kg/mm rate.. most of them down tune to 6kg-mm..but my kelisa i use default hard spring...a little backpain travelling with this car

on kancil are fine enough....default spring came with hwl for kancil like 4kg-mm.. u can check on the spring itself will surveying/buying the hwl set.

who haf the gear lever from/for L500 manual . i need urgent. a.s.a.p i need the cable.. but if selling with the lever also can

My L2 previously also use kelisa alternator... my L5 ef-rl also using kelisa alternator

kelisa = kenari = l2 = l5(efrl) same alternator

engine oil use perodua ones... semi 5-30