interesting topic that has been discussed in various local car forums. won't mind testing on my car if it's about to be scrapped or overhauled!

1st thing on my mind: isn't minyak (kelapa) sawit = palm oil, and not coconut oil?

what i've read about vege oil is that, local vege oil like coconut & palm oil are more saturated compared to others like corn, soya, canola, sunflower etc. oil. but being saturated makes them more stable during hi temperature, therefore it's more suitable for frying. mono- or polyunsaturated fats are more prone to break down into other compounds, and therefore less suitable for frying food.

so... being saturated oil could mean it withstands an engine's combustion heat better!

From what I heard from my dad , old race engines during the 50's were also lubricated with palm oil.

scared to use in my car though.

haha...i'm going to change my waja engine oil soon....wanna try those "coconut palm cooking oil" instead..i let u guys know how it perform later.

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Added on February 19, 2009, 3:25 pmi just change my engine oil to pure coconut palm cooking oil,change oil filter.engine more quiet even at high rpm,speed easily reach 160kmh for auto.even gain extra mileage on petrol,about extra 80-90km.engine pickup more powerful,press acceleration pedal not even quarterly,like pressing full pedal.

just change about 2 days...will inform later for long term.anyway,my car stock 4g18p (a)

This post has been edited by ibmlenovo: Feb 19 2009, 03:26 PM

Intereting, keep us posted, especially on the sludge build-up concern. Try checking yr dipstick often, as this is yr 1st time using it, to see whether there's any sludge build-up.

So, which brand of cooking oil did u use, Cap Buruh, Pisau, Giant, etc.? Or did u get those brandless pasar malam oil in 1kg packing transparent plastic bags?

woot... hehehe... anybody got camera?

i buy those transparent plastic bag cant remember what brand.

later i take picture to post here

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Added on March 10, 2009, 9:42 amsory guys.cannot continue updating with the palm oil project coz my car need to go overhaul already....minyak hitam already bocor n kena those sensor n wiring..engine died on the road but luckily infront of workshop...lotsa things have to replace....

This post has been edited by ibmlenovo: Mar 10 2009, 09:42 AM

Bocor caused by the palm oil...?

Since the engine will be stripped, ask yr mech to check the oil pan and see whether there's any sludge there, or at other parts of the engine internals.

not because of palm oil.it was leaking b4 that.
ok,i will ask my mech to check any sludge or internal parts condition.

now temporary have to use my father in law SAGA KRETA KEBAL (TANKER) to work

at CG forum, they have quite extensive discussion about this, they even got a list of their CG member that using cooking oil. below are the list.

1.
Nama : Pakwan
Kereta: Honda City
Minyak Masak Cap : Saji


2.
Nama : ExAvantz
Kereta: Alfa Romeo 2.5 v6
Minyak Masak Cap : Minyak Saji

3.
Nama : ExAvantz
Kereta: Alfa Romeo 1.7 Boxer
Minyak Masak Cap : Minyak Vesawit

4.
Nama : ExAvantz
Kereta: Waja Campro 1.6
Minyak Masak Cap : Minyak Seri Murni

5.
Nama : ExAvantz
Kereta: Skuter Suzuki VS125
Minyak Masak Cap : Minyak Saji

6.
nama : amaar
Kereta : chevrolete optra 1.6
Minyak Masak Cap : Seri murni ( 2000KM )

7.
nama : fariq
Kereta : wira injection 1.3
Minyak Masak Cap : Seri murni 50% ( 300K )

8.
nama : Moolaswiss
Kereta : Iswara Aeroback 1.3
Minyak Masak Cap : Seri murni

9.
nama : 12daily_pro
Kereta : Honda EK 1.6 Vtec Single Cam
Minyak Masak Cap : Seri murni

10.
nama: hydroxy
kereta :Honda EG si
Minyak masak :seri murni

11.
nama: zainul9
keta: saga megavalve 1.5
myk: seri murni, 2x punyulingan (dh hampir 2000km)
oil treatment: stop oil

12.
nama: esey
kereta: satria 1.6
minyak masak: Vesawit RACING!!!
oil treatment: bardhal 2

13.
nama: fariq
motosikal: modenas kriss 100
minyak masak: seri murni
oil treatment : tak de guna apa2 pun.

14.
nama: nazhif
kereta: waja evo
minyak masak: SAJI
oil treatment: stop oil


15.
nama: manizaj
kereta: Naza Citra
minyak masak: SAJI
oil treatment: Bardhal No 1(yg lmbut)

16.
nama: pak itam
kereta: saga orient
minyak masak: SAJI
oil treatment: stp cair

17.
namaak itam
kereta:wira
minyak masak: SAJI
oil treatment: stp pekat.....

18.
Nama : Sue
Kereta : Vios 2008
Minyak masak : Saji
Oil Treatment : NASA

19.
nama: hangkebun
kereta: Savvy
minyak masak: vesawit
oil treatment: ntah dah lupa(apa Race ntah)RM 18

20.
Nama: naj2921
kerete: Kelisa
minyak masak : Vesawit
Oil treatment: TIADA

21.
Nama : orazly
kerete : waja auto
minyak masak : saji
oil treatment : TIADA (baru test tanpa oil camne)


22.
Nama : buffet2
kereta: proton saga 1.3 01
minyak masak : seri murni (50%)
oil treatment : ada

23.
Nama : papat
motor: Yamaha 135 LC
minyak masak : Vesawit
oil treatment : stp

24.
nama : hantamsajala
kereta: tiara 1.0 1996
minyak masak ; peket (100%)
oil treatment ; tak taruk
dah sebulan lebih... enjin senyap... power... vroom dan sejuk je,,

25.
nama : hantamsajala
kereta: fiat brava 1.6
minyak masak ; peket (100%)
oil treatment ; tak taruk

26.
nama : rezekey
kereta: perodua rusa 1.6
minyak masak ; seri murni
oil treatment ; nasa

This post has been edited by lamir_loco: Mar 12 2009, 11:49 PM

Wow, some are even risking their Alfa Romeos to test palm oil! sri Murni & Saji seem popular, probably due to their lower prices among the 5kg pack cooking oils. Wonder which one smells better?

p.s. CG = which car club?

it's not actually car forum, Cari Gold. Com but minus the the spaces. everytime try to type normally in lyn forum, it change it to spaghetti monster or something. its under automotive subforum.

Wow you used it in waja and able to gain extra 80-90km mileage.Thats fantastic.My manual waja fc is killing me.But I prefer to wait for more extensive testing first.

The only thing I am concerned is cooking oil becomes less viscous at high temperature so the lubricating effect might be lost if your engine is running non-stop like during highway cruising.Furthermore, cooking oil oxidation property are not as robust as those of engine oil meaning it easily gets oxidise and becomes watery and changes colour.

yes,extra 80-90km mileage.but i control pressing pedal around 80-90kmh only.i already check with my tech,the palm oil color become light color and a bit "cair" if compare with engine oil thickness..not sure about this coz i just try it for a couple of days or so....

I did some brief googling, not sure whether this is correct, but palm oil's viscosity seems similar to that of 20 weight oil when hot. Maybe that's where the FC improvement comes from, i.e. lower drag from thinner oil.

anyone care to do an UOA?kekeke

That should be the main reason why alot of people feel better inprovements in FC as performance. Because of the lesser drag.

Its no different than using lighter weight rated oil in your car engine. It'll increase performance, but decrease necessary protection.

For example, fo Kancil, it is recommended for you to use 10W/30 oil for adequate protection. If one were to use 10W/40 or 20W/40, which is a heavier (aka more viscous) oil, you'll increase protection on your engine (more than needed), but decrease the performance and mileage on your engine because of the extra work the engine needs to work to overcome the extra viscosity of the oil.

Like wise, if you use 10W/20, you'll make the engine work less, but you'll increase wear and tear of the engine because the oil is lighter, and does not provide as much protection as the recommended weight.

If you guys want more FC or performance, why not use Singer oil? Its lighter than cooking oil. Sure will increase lots of performance. Just that your engine will die faster la.

Actually, the protection level doesn't increase with the oil's viscosity. More viscous oil may withstand higher heat than thinner ones, but the use of thicker oils actually increases wear!

This can happen when u use, say, a 20W-50 on a new engine instead of a more suitable 5W-30, which the new engine can use w/o any probs due to its tight tolerances. The 5W-30 will be thinner during both cold-start and when the engine has reached at its operating temperature. When an oil is thinner during cold-starts, it's easier to pump around the engine internals, therefore reaching metal-to-metal wear areas faster compared to the 20W-50 grade oil, effectively starting protection faster by minimising time for metal-to-metal contact.

Furthermore, engines which use 20W-50 oil- which has a thicker oil film compared to thinner oils- from the start will also force the gaps between moving parts to be bigger sooner, to accommodate the thicker oil film. So, ideally, when the engine is still new, we should start using the thinnest possible oil that doesn't cause noticeable oil consumption, and only "upgrade" to higher viscosities when oil is consumed noticeably. This way, we get the best FC, response & lifespan from an engine.

then why the hell the sc still forced me to use 15-50 engine, as 10-40 is oledi good for my car...

I guess our technicians are not that updated in lubrication technology... they still have the "thick = more protection, thin = less protection" mindset strongly reinforced by their sifu.

Campro engines still have 20W-50 as the recommended oil viscosity, while the CPS version is recommended to use 10W-30, according to a CPS owner. Another guy with the latest Lexus LX470 (Cygnus?) SUV told me the owner manual recommends 5W-20 grade oil. Maybe this applies more to temperate countries, we're probably more suited to W-30 grade. Some ppl hv used W-20 grade in our weather with no probs, while others experienced gradual oil reduction, even on a relatively new car.

Ur getting better mileage because your engine rpm is low...For example i drive from melaka to subang at
140-180km/h will cost me around rm45-50
80-100km/h will cost around rm20-25.. this is not because of my engine oil,its purely about what speed im doing at what rpm..