not sure about the paint. but any heat resistant paint that match it should be fine.
perhaps, other waja owner will come forward and share their experience

nice thanks a lot for the idea.

perhaps you should get the coil spring and shock absorber checked.

you mean you changed the same shock absorber before? in that case, a loose thing somewhere... spring / plate is possible?
btw, coil spring won't spoil but over the years, the tension rate tend to decrease and become softer. it's advisable to change it after a couple of years.
am not an expert, anyway. maybe you should wait for other waja user on their input on similar problem. check around in technical section as well.

only certain model of waja has an immobilizer.
as in certain 1.6X or 1.8X. check out the button next to the side mirror controller.

black eye lolz.....
yeah! about time for TT and 'black eye' project
eh guys, any feedback on the bridgestone 01 tyres..the directional thread one?
i am planning to buy a pair in a month.
thanks

i saw quite a number of stock waja with profile 60 tyres. my neighbour is running on 55 front and 60 rear. good for rear occupant but not for fast cornering. will try to get a picture soon.
btw, i just changed to yokohama c-drive profile 55. awesome cornering and good overall grip but the tyres is a bit noisy on uneven surface.
anyone using the bridgestone re001, barum bravia or any directional thread tyres? care to share the experience?
thanks

about the 4-2-1 extractor, a friend of mine is using hotbits; it cracked(for no reason) after 3 months... maybe he is unlucky.

same here... i ditched my modded gsrt for a waja auto.
if you want comfort. go for series 60. i tested my neighbour's car, feel more comfortable than series 55 on stock suspension. it absorb the uneven surfaces very well.
sporty spring gives harder ride. stock setup is better.

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Added on April 26, 2009, 9:35 pmthanks a lot for the advice. i intend to use it for the rear only, btw.
i used the sime astar300 before. experience some aquaplaning during 70km/h(highway) on heavy rain
the C-drive is only 10 bucks more expensive but it's feels like a world apart

This post has been edited by yngwie: Apr 26 2009, 09:35 PM

it's already over a month but my car still rev higher during start up...
well over 15k for a few minutes.
it used to be around 12k before oil change and drop after a few seconds.
should i reset the ECU?

Should i go for Yokohama S drive or RE001? any feedback?
recommend me a good brake disc and 2 pots caliper for front waja too. budget under 1k.
i almost kiss a myvi on the highway the other day.... driving at 100km/h about 10 metres distance. the myvi suddenly brake for nothing paiseh
thanks.

This post has been edited by yngwie: May 10 2009, 11:04 AM

yoo squareballs, care to elaborate more about the wheeing sound?

err...how much? will it works on 4g18p too?
btw, a friend of mine used 4-2-1 powerzone and it cracked after a couple of months...maybe he was con'ed
make sure you get 'em from reputable dealer. speedworks and race will be a better place.

btw, any sifu can recommend me a good upgrade on front brake? prefer drilled and good pad.
budget around rm650 for the front only.
anyone try those half cut 2 pots front?
thank you

very much depend on the car condition and mileage covered.
should not exceed 29K.

err..... guys, how much does the front bush cost?
my car produced a squeaking sound like worn out rubber when i turn the steering in full circle
while the car slowly move

170 bucks for an ATF fluid change is a standard price?

thanks. i will ask around

sifu Zen, how much does the UTR drop in air filter cost?

guys, any feedback on denso iridium spark plug? or it's equivalent?
thank you.

btw, i see no point in upgrading from older waja to waja cps... after all, it's still a 9 years old model.
waja replacement is just around the corner... heard that it will be very much look like the current lancer
i am considering the civic 2.0 myself. else, the new city looks good in brown too.
about time to settle down

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 20 2009, 10:24 AM

33-2074 or something...

am currently not in town but my sister is complaining that the waja's temperature gauge will be idle in 0 during the cold start(early morning or in the evening when the car is parked for a long time).
it will slowly move to normal temperature after a few minutes of driving. by right, is should straight away moved
up, am i right?
the problem occured after i ask her to go for an ATF change(which is not related)

do you guys think ICU reset will be able to solve the problem?

thank you.

exactly!
that's being my concern.
my sister was complaining about the temperature gauge not moving at all during cold start.
it will stay in 0 degree. after a few minutes of driving, it will moved very slow to idle temperature which is slightly under the 90 degree.
when i was driving the car sometimes back, no such problem. the temperature gauge straight away stationed below 90 degree during cold start.

P/S: during the atf change, my sister does told about the mechanic doing something with the radiator thing...

both. when the car left for more than 5 hours. the problem will occur during restart.
it become worst during overnight. will takes about 10 minutes for the water temp gauge to move
to ideal temp which is slightly below 90 degree.

right now, am still outstation. will bring it to workshop for a check this thursday, btw.
err.... rm35 is a standard price to fix the lighter port? my sister complaint the mp3 modulator doesn't
work too. looks like a lot of work to be done back in kl

how much s the cost to repair the temperature gauge?

thanks

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jul 4 2009, 09:45 AM

if i am not mistaken, no specific model. thus are the waja's earlier batch(2nd?) rims. correct me if i am wrong

@selinix
how long has it has been since the last time you change your ATF liquid?
sometimes, you need to change 'em earlier than 20k, especially on older car like ours or drive through the flooded area.

beside changing the motor to the metal one, try oiling(specific oil) the rubber that was in contact with the glass, sometimes it help.

i am using one from t-rex. my volume button is a lil' scratched by the steering lock.
otherwise a good buy under 100 bucks.

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Added on July 13, 2009, 8:06 pmopen the rear door and try to shake it. if there is the same sound, most probably it was the power windows motor
thing loosened
absorber should give a squeaking sound.

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Added on July 13, 2009, 8:18 pmsorry to interrupt. if i am not mistaken, to get the optimum result, campro variant need to be driven in certain higher RPM range to get the best out of it. a friend of mine who own a waja cps auto told me he could run over 700km on full tank(80% city and 20% of highway driving). stock waja with no midification.
far cry from my old stock waja auto which only cover slightly more than 550km before the warning
light turn on

after the 1st service and run in... your new car should be able to return a better fc.

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jul 13 2009, 08:18 PM