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 speaker crossover mod, capacitor change

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chefsinc67
post Feb 5 2009, 07:23 AM

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QUOTE(kww @ Feb 4 2009, 09:58 PM)
Any recommendation on inductor to use? My budget is below rm50 per pcs.
Thanks.
*
for a car crossover and a paralell crossover the resistance value isnt as important in the inductors so any half decent inductor with a wire diametre of up to 16 gauge would be fine i am in langkawi so dont have a clue where to get speaker parts in KL, unless another member can enlighten us?
dont worry about door shaking bass from the scan speak this crossover has no baffle step circuit in it so it will be smooth bass , not overly powerful, but please make sure you put a good amount of padding or bitumen pads behind them on the inside panel of the door. this helps a lot as you dont get panel vibration as much.


good luck and let us know the results.
abel
post Feb 5 2009, 11:32 AM

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QUOTE(kww @ Feb 4 2009, 09:58 PM)
Any recommendation on inductor to use? My budget is below rm50 per pcs.
Thanks.
*
actually depends on the value n thickness i bought Mundorf copper foil 0.51mh 14gauge for RM 120 per pc
kww
post Feb 5 2009, 11:44 AM

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I try look for inductor in Farnell, there are 2 type of inductor material: mainly ferrite and iron. To get one that can support 1A and above the tolerance will be more than 10%. Some are call "coke" like:
http://my.farnell.com/bourns-jw-miller/571...ctor/dp/1189597
or
http://my.farnell.com/bourns-jw-miller/525...hoke/dp/1103553
Can I use this?

Abel, copper foil = CFC? Better than air core? Where you get it?
Thanks.

This post has been edited by kww: Feb 5 2009, 11:58 AM
chefsinc67
post Feb 5 2009, 06:55 PM

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QUOTE(kww @ Feb 5 2009, 11:44 AM)
I try look for inductor in Farnell, there are 2 type of inductor material: mainly ferrite and iron. To get one that can support 1A and above the tolerance will be more than 10%. Some are call "coke" like:
http://my.farnell.com/bourns-jw-miller/571...ctor/dp/1189597
or
http://my.farnell.com/bourns-jw-miller/525...hoke/dp/1103553
Can I use this?

Abel, copper foil = CFC? Better than air core? Where you get it?
Thanks.
*
if you want to waste money and get foil type inductor then abel has the place to go to, i would settle for an aircore in the car and use the foil inductors for my home hifi in which i have done to my reference speakers.

aircore inductors u should be able to get at any good car hifi store in kl i guess.

anyone can help this Lad out with some local knowledge?

cheers
abel
post Feb 6 2009, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(chefsinc67 @ Feb 5 2009, 06:55 PM)
if you want to waste money and get foil type inductor then abel has the place to go to, i would settle for an aircore in the car and use the foil inductors for my home hifi in which i have done to my reference speakers.

aircore inductors u should be able to get at any good car hifi store in kl i guess.

anyone can help this Lad out with some local knowledge?

cheers
*
if want Mundorf copper foil can get from Octave or order from internet i use copper foil for my home hifi
if u want cheaper try to find Alpha or Solo

this my passive crossover for my car speaker
user posted image

This post has been edited by abel: Feb 6 2009, 10:35 AM
chefsinc67
post Feb 6 2009, 05:23 PM

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QUOTE(abel @ Feb 6 2009, 10:14 AM)
if want Mundorf copper foil can get from Octave or order from internet i use copper foil for my home hifi
if u want cheaper try to find Alpha or Solo

this my passive crossover for my car speaker
user posted image
*
abel,

ask chua for a lend of my series crossover and try it in your car mate, give that a go and see how it sounds...

nice to see you have a zoebel in there also, makes a huge difference to the woofer control. nice caps as well, bit pricey though...what drivers you using abel in the car?
abel
post Feb 6 2009, 05:43 PM

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now i no longer into car hifi sold everything off
now iam into home hifi previous i using Nakamichi speaker (OEM by Vifa) MG17WK001 mid and D26NC05 tweeter
for the passive actually iam follow the original factory passive design

i got try Linkwitz 12db at 3000hz for the tweeter and 6db 3000hz for the mid that time didnt use any attenuation just borrow from fren sound not that nice

This post has been edited by abel: Feb 6 2009, 05:51 PM
chefsinc67
post Feb 6 2009, 05:56 PM

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QUOTE(abel @ Feb 6 2009, 05:43 PM)
now i no longer into car hifi sold everything off
now iam into home hifi previous i using Nakamichi speaker (OEM by Vifa) MG17WK001 mid and D26NC05 tweeter
for the passive actually iam follow the original factory passive design

i got try Linkwitz 12db at 3000hz for the tweeter and 6db 3000hz for the mid that time didnt use any attenuation just borrow from fren sound not that nice
*
mg17's are what i use for my centre speaker in langkawi, the one i made! not bad with the right crossover. the tweeter is a vifa also.

true i am more into home hi fi then car speakers as you dont get out what you put into the cars, where as sitting down in front of the hi fi with a nice cold can of beer and some funky vibes, is as sweet as pie to me!!
TSccschua
post Feb 6 2009, 07:56 PM

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Oh yes. let me know who is interested in the Series Cross Over board. I will post some photo on it later.
abel
post Feb 6 2009, 08:33 PM

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QUOTE(chefsinc67 @ Feb 6 2009, 05:56 PM)
mg17's are what i use for my centre speaker in langkawi, the one i made! not bad with the right crossover. the tweeter is a vifa also.

true i am more into home hi fi then car speakers as you dont get out what you put into the cars, where as sitting down in front of the hi fi with a nice cold can of beer and some funky vibes, is as sweet as pie to me!!
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yeah car alot of noise very irritating soo i go into home hifi i can infront of the home hifi have some coffee iam not into beer tongue.gif
gabanyayaya
post Feb 6 2009, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(abel @ Feb 6 2009, 09:33 PM)
yeah car alot of noise very irritating soo i go into home hifi i can infront of the home hifi have some coffee iam not into beer  tongue.gif
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is tat a kimawe carbon film resistor (green one) ?
chefsinc67
post Feb 8 2009, 09:33 AM

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QUOTE(ccschua @ Feb 6 2009, 07:56 PM)
Oh yes. let me know who is interested in the Series Cross Over board. I will post some photo on it later.
*
nobody game enough to try my creation? anyway Chua i hope you tried it and was different from what you expected.

by the way my zero is completley rosak and if no one sells me the board then thats that! I will try and use some pieces out of it but I cannot eevn get power to the headphone amp now as i was thinking of turning it into a buffer amp for my mini disc player as I had bypassed the crappy opamps in the mini disc and now the sound db is a lot less, so if I can fabricate a buffer in line with this to the pre amp it could be ok.

i made a new case for the zero so I may have to either do a pre-amp or maybe try a dac kit this time.any suggestions which is worth trying?

anybody want to get rid of their broken zero I am interested...-
abel
post Feb 9 2009, 11:25 AM

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QUOTE(gabanyayaya @ Feb 6 2009, 08:39 PM)
is tat a kimawe carbon film resistor (green one) ?
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yup smile.gif
TSccschua
post Feb 9 2009, 07:07 PM

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OK OK. I will take up the challenge for the SERIES crossover. I would like to experiment. photo by tonight. Actually I was drown in the digital domain with PLL, DEM, global feedback, TIM, FFT and BODE plot. I hope to be drown by Linkwitz, butterworth, etc.


Added on February 9, 2009, 10:22 pmAs promised, here is the Series crossover. the north 2 pin is input right, which is positive ?

the bottom mid 2 pin is common right ? which is treble and which is woofer.

user posted image

This post has been edited by ccschua: Feb 9 2009, 10:22 PM
chefsinc67
post Feb 10 2009, 09:20 PM

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it is not really a thing of beauty but it certainly wont come apart with any vibration inside the box.


as you look at it from the photo.

the top left is negative in /called top 1
the top right is positive in /called top2
the bottom from the left is woofer - /we number it bottom 1
the bottom left middle is woofer + /we number it bottom 2
the bottom middle right is tweeter - / we number it bottom3
the bottom far right is tweeter + / we number it bottom 4
just use some longer wires coming from the drivers out thru the port tube to the crossover and amp to the crossover in, then you can easily adjust the tweeter level by adding a resistor in line with the tweeter capc which is the far right solen caps.

good luck...


Added on February 10, 2009, 9:23 pm
QUOTE(ccschua @ Feb 9 2009, 07:07 PM)
OK OK. I will take up the challenge for the SERIES crossover. I would like to experiment. photo by tonight. Actually I was drown in the digital domain with PLL, DEM, global feedback, TIM, FFT and BODE plot. I hope to be drown by Linkwitz, butterworth, etc.


Added on February 9, 2009, 10:22 pmAs promised, here is the Series crossover. the north 2 pin is input right, which is positive ?

the bottom mid 2 pin is common right ? which is treble and which is woofer.

user posted image
*
middle left is woofer +
middle right is tweeter-

This post has been edited by chefsinc67: Feb 10 2009, 09:23 PM
TSccschua
post Feb 11 2009, 12:03 AM

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I am thinking what cable to connect between the crossover and the binding posts. I would solder the treble and woofer to the speaker binding post.
chefsinc67
post Feb 11 2009, 07:48 AM

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QUOTE(ccschua @ Feb 11 2009, 12:03 AM)
I am thinking what cable to connect between the crossover and the binding posts. I would solder the treble and woofer to the speaker binding post.
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just plug the cables into the binding post and run a wire outside from the inside of the binding post to the crossover thru the port tube, just like the driver cables. at least then you have easy access to the crossover. I will be setting all my crossvers outside the box soon as i want to build some small boxes for the crossovers to sit in, then i can interchange them with other crossovers i have. makes it a lot easier if you want to change the caps on the fly.

or as you have said if you have a twin binding post, solder these to the seperate binding post and run two short lengths to the binding post of each driver from the crossover, then from the amp get some other speaker binding posts and put in the + & - of the input of the crossver then you can plug straight in with banana plugs from the amp.

This post has been edited by chefsinc67: Feb 11 2009, 07:52 AM
abel
post Feb 11 2009, 03:50 PM

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hi ccshua how the ... result tongue.gif
gilbertlhl
post Feb 16 2009, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(ccschua @ Feb 9 2009, 07:07 PM)
OK OK. I will take up the challenge for the SERIES crossover. I would like to experiment. photo by tonight. Actually I was drown in the digital domain with PLL, DEM, global feedback, TIM, FFT and BODE plot. I hope to be drown by Linkwitz, butterworth, etc.


Added on February 9, 2009, 10:22 pmAs promised, here is the Series crossover. the north 2 pin is input right, which is positive ?

the bottom mid 2 pin is common right ? which is treble and which is woofer.

user posted image
*
hi, can giv a drawing on d crossover? im learning how to do it.. hmm.gif


Added on February 16, 2009, 5:04 pm
QUOTE(billyngcam @ Jan 13 2009, 06:01 PM)
All the Sifus,

I finally got time to open the speaker terminals to see the crossover.

Photos as below.

I tested it by connecting the bass unit directly to speaker cable , bypassing the crossover, and the speakers do sound bright enough! rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif

So, now almost 90% confirm the problem is with the crossover. Either the factory pre-set it like that, or something not working correctly. But the strange thing is, both side of the speakers sounded the same.... can both speaker crossover spoil at the same time kah? So lucky?

Now, my headache start.....  Sifus, how to check which component fail?

At the end of the day, if, just if, nothing is wrong with the crossover, how or where can I modify the crossover to make it sound brighter?

thanks in advance bro! rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif

user posted image

user posted image
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U may try take connect by pass the crossover then connect a small cap series to tweeter with from + to - tweeter. hear the sound..


This post has been edited by gilbertlhl: Feb 16 2009, 05:04 PM
TSccschua
post Feb 16 2009, 09:40 PM

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there u go.

user posted image

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