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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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lanatir
post Mar 31 2009, 09:53 AM

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something more for you to read

http://www.luxury-insider.com/columns/Pete...g/True_Bespoke/



lanatir
post Apr 9 2009, 12:07 AM

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QUOTE(jind86 @ Apr 8 2009, 11:54 PM)
visited Granoff today and met Mr Mansor to show him the sample materials i picked up from the different material shops i visited.. so made appointment with him and the tailor this sat to go through the details of the suit i wish to get made.. they charge RM1000 for their services, comes with horn buttons and hand stitching (most fused custom made suits in malaysia use glue, not them).. and there's no limit to the number of fittings and no additional charges for surgeon's cuff (unlike binwani which charges RM50 for each extra fitting and RM100 for working cuffs).. the process is quite interesting, supposedly Mansor will sit down with each customer and discuss every little detail, like building a small project together, something i find fascinating because i didnt enjoy such experience with Lords.. i managed to see some of the suits Granoff did and how personalized they were, customers can opt for different lining for the body and for the sleeve, the thread color can be mixed around, and they do this kind of pattern on how the lining flows (will take some pictures on this to further elaborate)..

so anyway will run down to get the materials this friday and start the suit project on sat, will add pictures as well =)
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congrats. i can imagine your excitement for this. how much did u save from using your own materials?
lanatir
post Apr 9 2009, 02:31 PM

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new suit > new socks > new cufflinks > new shirt > new shoes... biggrin.gif
lanatir
post Apr 12 2009, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Apr 12 2009, 11:27 AM)
Pagoda shoulders come with roped sleeveheads(usually). That's how shoulders should look with minimal padding. Ironic how Jind86's shoulders looks kinda boxy.
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u gotta have matching upturned eyebrows brows.gif
lanatir
post May 10 2009, 05:43 PM

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i've always found Oscar Jacobson suits to be of quite decent quality. a couple of years back, Robinson's invited the CEO of OJ to come over and give customers a talk on suits and their construction (plus also a nice way to fold a suit into a suitcase). anyway, the way he talked about OJ suits made me think that at the very least, their suits are OK at the price... though the only reason why i won't buy their suits is that for that price, i can top up a bit more and get one from my tailor.

anyway, today, i was at Robinsons and noticed that their blazers were going for RM699 (MSRP RM1499) so i tried on a gray one and i found them quite nice. so i bought one. all in all, quite a decent fit for me and the sleeves were about the right length to show off a bit of cuff (u have options of short/regular length sleeves in the different sizes). the cuffs are unfortunately faux surgeon cuffs but no complains for the price. wool looks to be super 120 and quite resistant to creasing. there's also a blue one with traditional gold buttons but i didn't like the cutting on that. here are some close up views.

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lanatir
post May 10 2009, 06:17 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ May 10 2009, 06:11 PM)
The price is quite good for a swedish-made s120 sharkskin suit jacket. I have yet to check out an Oscar Jacobson suit, so I can't comment much on its quality and construction. Anyway, did you get the pants too as a suit set? By the way, I would not call that a blazer if I were to go by proper sartorial terms. The navy one with gold / brass buttons, on the other hand, might be a true blazer.

Maybe you can post up some pictures of you in the suit jacket so that we can judge the overall fit and cutting from there.  smile.gif
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actually it is OJ themselves who call it a blazer. nope no pants. it only comes in jacket form.
lanatir
post May 10 2009, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ May 10 2009, 06:16 PM)
Was it fully canvassed?
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nope. only half i believe


Added on May 10, 2009, 6:27 pm
QUOTE(FusioneX @ May 10 2009, 06:22 PM)
Most fashion retailers seems to have embraced the term although its usage is incorrect, although words and language evolve with time and it has become somewhat acceptable.

May I know what pants are you planning on wearing the suit jacket with, lanatir? Although suit jackets are only meant to be worn with suit pants, I guess we can somewhat defy rules in this time and age. I personally try very hard not to wear them separately but sometimes slack off once a while and pair a suit jacket with jeans or chinos.  laugh.gif
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it is my intent to couple these with jeans or chinos actually. it's a slimmer fit that what i've been wearing for years and while trying it on just now (i was wearing a rugby Tshirt and a pair of not so tight skinnies with my Onitsuka Tigers), it actually looked alright to me.

i'm planning to get a full suit properly done sometime in future. i don't even know when i'll have the chance to wear this OJ jacket anyway since it's out of place in my office and if i do go to events (where i sometimes lug my camera), the last thing i want to look as is a well dressed buffoon drenched in sweat.

This post has been edited by lanatir: May 10 2009, 06:27 PM
lanatir
post May 10 2009, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ May 10 2009, 06:31 PM)
I wonder why OJ did not sell the pants for that suit jacket. If they are to market it as a standalone jacket - i.e: blazer / sportscoat, they shouldn't have used worsted, especially s120.
Haha, indeed, mate. Which is why DSLR-luggers prefer waistcoats anytime.  brows.gif
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i looked around the selection and didnt find any matching fabric for the suit too. had asked the sales attendant but he just shrugged. anyway the offer was clearly meant to clear off the blazers/sportscoats. as i mentioned, there are traditional blue blazers there but the cutting was a bit off for me and it looked kinda stuffy. somehow the gray ones had a look that was a bit less formal than the other options (especially due to the cut).

anyway while the brand is swedish, i highly doubt it's made in sweden.

no waistcoats for me. heck nowadays i don't even wear cuff links because i dont wear a tie at work anymore and i feel cufflinks without a tie on a workshirt is a look that should only be used after work.


Added on May 10, 2009, 6:46 pm
QUOTE(calvinloke @ May 10 2009, 06:43 PM)
That sportcoat looks way too formal to go with jeans actually. It seems as though the pants are missing. I would wear it with chinos but not jeans. I don't know. It's just that I feel a more relaxed blazer preferably made with cotton and patch pockets should go with jeans.
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perhaps. i dont think it will match blue denim but it may work with some blacks. when the day comes when i do wear it, i will mix and match to see which one suits best. otherwise i'll just go tailor something for it.

This post has been edited by lanatir: May 10 2009, 06:47 PM
lanatir
post May 10 2009, 07:04 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ May 10 2009, 06:54 PM)
I highly suspect the reason they were clearing it off at such low price is because they ran out of stock for the pants in the first place, since people usually purchase two suit pants with a suit jacket and the sales attendant shrugged off your question. If I'm a sales attendant who is trying to clear off orphaned suit jackets as odd jackets, I too won't tell customers that they originally came with matching suit pants. Haha.

I have never heard of the brand before on other forums, though. Also, there doesn't seem to be any comments regarding the Lanificio Puro Tessuto's fabric quality.

Cufflinks without ties might still be fine in our country due to the weather, although elsewhere, some trad gents condemn others for not wearing suits with their cufflinks.
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actually i've been observing those jackets for a while... and they've always been sold as a standalone without the pants there. or perhaps i may have missed them completely hmm.gif

nevertheless, i bought the jacket without the intention of getting the pants in the first place. i've been wanting to get just a jacket for a while.

as for cufflinks without tie, it's my own self imposed restriction after i noticed how shabby i looked.

lanatir
post May 11 2009, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ May 11 2009, 01:53 AM)
Lanatir, thata a fine looking jacket you got there. It maybe a part of a suit. But trust me, not many can carry off shiny silver color suit without looking like a pimp. hahaha. Cue some Lebanese guys in suits i saw in KL last month.

But i have seen some being worn nicely with jeans and T-shirt. Actually i have seen 2-3 times in Kl before some guys wearing such a jacket partnered with printed T-shirts and dark colored jeans. One was wearing such combo with sunglasses and a bag, its almost like they came off the magazine pages! The only thing in common among them is they are quite slim. Somehow i always mistake this brand for Oscar De la Renta. hahah.

Tessuto..... now that a name i haven't heard for nearly 15 years! I have seen Durban (yes the Malaysian brand) did use this fabric for their suits long time ago. Also i have seen neck ties with Tessuto labels on them before. And advertisments from local tailors that carry such fabric. Just when i was getting used to Dormeuil brand. hehe.
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thanks. nah i'm not good looking enough to pimp off the jacket and neither am i slim biggrin.gif magazine material i am not!

but essentially i simply threw it on, thought to myself, "hmm can i pass this off as a jacket accessory to a less formal setup?"

looked into the mirror and at the price tag... then again at myself in the mirror hmm.gif and then said why not? nod.gif

haha the worst thing i can do is just wear the jacket without any shirt/t-shirt on drool.gif

This post has been edited by lanatir: May 11 2009, 09:22 AM
lanatir
post May 12 2009, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ May 12 2009, 11:25 AM)
I would disagree though. Peak lapels in my opinion are more fashion forward. They come and go. Basically, for a suit to be as versatile as possible, it is best to go with notch lapel if you plan to use the suit for interviews, etc... I don't see anything nerdy about notches as long as you keep the gorge and lapel width right.
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i believe the choice of styles would depend on what u want to use the suit for apart from your wedding. if u do want to use it for business use (customer presentations at work etc) then u will need to be a bit more conservative in choices.
lanatir
post May 12 2009, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(ojp @ May 12 2009, 11:44 AM)
peak lapel not suitable for business purposes ?
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i think u're gonna need to think abt lastability and the style of the suit in general.

peak lapels are fine of course. but if u go with some shiny sharkskin grey with a cut that is very fashion forward, u may look out of place among your colleagues. it's ok to shine as much as u want during your wedding. but unless u're the boss of the company, u may look like a non team player in a meeting where u have a row of colleagues in black/blue and u alone in grey.

this is of course circumvented if u do have the chance to make another suit solely for business purposes.
lanatir
post May 13 2009, 03:57 PM

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amid this debate, if any of u looking for some options for blazers/jackets/sportcoats away from zara, topman, etc... there are some decent options at http://wondermomo.blogspot.com
lanatir
post May 13 2009, 04:27 PM

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QUOTE(jind86 @ May 13 2009, 04:13 PM)
i really dont see any, mostly ladies apparel, why dont you give us the the direct link..
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u'll have to visit the shop in plaza mt kiara
lanatir
post May 14 2009, 01:00 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ May 14 2009, 12:10 AM)
I think i know this shop. They were reviewed by the star sometime back. The carry a limited range of mens clothing. But a lot of womens stuff.


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actually it has lots of treasures to look out for smile.gif

good branded jackets, jeans, tshirts, shirts to grab.
lanatir
post May 14 2009, 01:47 PM

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actually that folded thing in the front jacket pocket can also be the bill for the amount of money u spend on the suit.
lanatir
post May 18 2009, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ May 18 2009, 02:32 PM)
Apart from the sleeves and pants, I can't see a damn thing!
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i'm a bit better. i can see three hands!!! rclxms.gif rclxm9.gif
lanatir
post May 19 2009, 09:51 AM

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i'm tempted to tailor a multi use vest.
lanatir
post May 22 2009, 01:47 PM

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jin, ur suit apa cerita
lanatir
post May 22 2009, 05:21 PM

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QUOTE(jind86 @ May 22 2009, 02:01 PM)
hey, my bro's suit alright, they will call soon when its ready.. then i'll take pix and post them up here.. im tempted to make a cotton suit lol..

http://men.style.com/gq/fashion/slideshow/v/031609NPH
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ya make make... support the malaysian economy!

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