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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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netmatrix
post Apr 22 2009, 09:07 PM

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*Hurk!!!* *hmmmphhhhh* I nearly lost my dinner there. whistling.gif
netmatrix
post May 1 2009, 12:12 AM

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That is why i don;t go to this kind of sales since many years ago. And whats funny is Malaysian no money? Economy not good? Yeah right.....
netmatrix
post May 11 2009, 01:53 AM

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Lanatir, thata a fine looking jacket you got there. It maybe a part of a suit. But trust me, not many can carry off shiny silver color suit without looking like a pimp. hahaha. Cue some Lebanese guys in suits i saw in KL last month.

But i have seen some being worn nicely with jeans and T-shirt. Actually i have seen 2-3 times in Kl before some guys wearing such a jacket partnered with printed T-shirts and dark colored jeans. One was wearing such combo with sunglasses and a bag, its almost like they came off the magazine pages! The only thing in common among them is they are quite slim. Somehow i always mistake this brand for Oscar De la Renta. hahah.

Tessuto..... now that a name i haven't heard for nearly 15 years! I have seen Durban (yes the Malaysian brand) did use this fabric for their suits long time ago. Also i have seen neck ties with Tessuto labels on them before. And advertisments from local tailors that carry such fabric. Just when i was getting used to Dormeuil brand. hehe.


netmatrix
post May 12 2009, 01:22 AM

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Vincent is having a promo last month where their suits start from RM499. But you could go check it out first before commiting.

The Ronaldo one is a spin off from the old suits. It is single breasted with peak lapels and double vented. Nearly landed one last year from Aquascutum. But didn't get it because the lapels are too slim.
netmatrix
post May 12 2009, 10:09 AM

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Hi ojp, My aunt did have a tailored jacket from Vincent, many years ago. But that was many years ago. So technique might have changed for the better or worse. So i wouldn't know. But she had hers done for slightly less than RM400. (I wonder why female jackets cost less. No fair!) I can only say that tailoring in the 90s' is just different. Even the fabrics used is different. So i can't comment on them, but only on their attractive pricing.

Yes peak lapels are to get. Its a stand out feature. Its actually inspired from 1930's suit jackets. The thin lapels refers to the size of it. I should have said, wider lapels. Look at Ronaldo's 3rd picture and see how the highest peak almost touch the shoulder ends and almost 4-5 inches in width. That is the traditional way. The newer ones are narrow and slim mostly 2-3 inches at the highest peak. That the latest one.

Peak lapel design is slowing down at the moment. It was the in thing just last year. Many suit forums rave about it. Still its the thing to get IMHO. Its just a great feature to have and doesn't make one too nerdy if you are wearing slim style coats.

If you like this Ronaldo suit, i believe many tailors can make it. I'm hard pressed to recommend tailors. As i believe in something that i'm sure no one would agree to, unfortunately.
netmatrix
post May 12 2009, 11:52 AM

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Calvinloke, The problem is, skinny lapels are shown a lot of times as school related. Skinny lapels of either design would make a certain look one is finding. But many a times i see thick rimmed glasses being paired with such look. And many a times you match it up with some colorful cardigans and button down shirts with loose tie ala Ralph Lauren, it spells geeky or busboy? I don't have anything againts geeky look. Its just that most of them typify the look as geeky. For skinny suits, its mod. Large shoulders are beefcake and such. I mean i used the geeky term the fashion people use. Its not to mean i generalize the people with such look as geeky. They can be Urkle and be successful too. I too did ask ojp to get peak lapels because it will be a stand out feature for wedding or work.

lanatir, Yes color plays an important part. In this case the details aren't important in the coporate world. Most are blacks and blues anyway. You hit a point in wearing a different color part. Its like uncohesion of a group. A bad apple among the good ones. But this is most of the time peoples perception. Nothing to do whether the guy is in white or black.

ojp, Double vented is the slit at the back of the coat. You know some girls skirts have slits on the sides that shows legs. This is the same but it is on the back of the coat.

user posted image
From left Single Vent, Double Vent and No Vent.

You see how well defined the double vent is? Its also more comfortable and ease of movement. It adds a little girth if you are skinny.

Lets make this a little easy for tailoring. You get a few magazine or picture sample to the tailor and ask if they can make those. Or a combination of the features you selected. That is the easiest way. Because most tailors would revert to the best and fastest method they know how and make suits the way they want. Not many traditional tailors would make modern styled suits. They have to design patterns and all, its time consuming. And you pay a lot for it. And if you are not suit savvy (hehehe) then its probably hard to tell the tailor what look you want.

I think this makes a good transition from wedding to work. Well it would look as common as this if you are seeking second life for your suits ya? hehehe.

user posted image

This post has been edited by netmatrix: May 12 2009, 11:58 AM
netmatrix
post May 12 2009, 08:26 PM

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Calvinloke gotta dissect your post to give reply, its kind of long, hope u like it. hehehe.

QUOTE
Netmatrix, both peak or notch lapels aren't supposed to be skinny. They should be cut and sized appropriately taking the shoulders and chest width into consideration. Anything too big or too small would imply Tom Ford or Korean suits.


Yes, i know that too. Well u must be implying the 30s'-40s' right? Many of the classic look fellas disagrees with slim suits too. Mush more on slim lapels. Lapes must be proportionate to the body? hahaha you gotta be kidding me. You hang out at those classic suits forums you would have known that they love more belly to the lapels than anything else. And the more better if it was double breasted 3 piece. Tom Ford and the Koreans are the 00s'. The style will be around. But it has already been indicated that the style is from the 50's to 60s' during the Kennedy era. Don't forget James Bond too. hehehe.

QUOTE
A versatile suit shouldn't be drawing too much attention right? You don't want people to go, "Oh, he did it again with his same old huge/skinny lapel suit". Based on my observation, people tend to notice a peak lapel jacket more than a notch lapel. Say you only have a single suit and you of course want to conceal the fact that you only own one, would you like to go with something which draws attention or keep a low profile?


Aaahhh. Then there is morality value. Do you camp on the judging by face value side or the other camp of acceptability? Why are there still people wearing shiny fabric clothes if it is deemed too Hollywood? But i understand what u want to say. Well one fact i could share with you is, not a lot of people own a coat, blazer or jacket. Every average guy don't get to wear one until only they are at proms or only when they get married. And that is if they get to graduate or get married.

Your point is to somewhat hide from people that he is only able to own a piece of high class society clothes. Hmm.... well i disagree with this. Have you seen the movie called "In Pursuit of Happyness"? Did you see how Will Smith only had 2 suits that he rotated daily? Lets overlook the fact that he changes the tie or its regular lapel all the time. Its more like how he carried himself throughout. Just looking presentable, respect people and you could get through everything. Yes people do notice you wear the same article of clothing every time. I agree to that. As a first suit to own, why not give it a little zing like a peak lapel? It will be black and it won't be noticable what the details are, but sillouete does.

QUOTE
For me, a peak lapel reminds the crowd too much of a dinner jacket or a double breasted suit. Hence, if you plan to get away with a single suit or use the suit over and over again it's best to stick to a classic notch lapel. Instead you can experiment more with the ties and pocket squares. Trust me, I've been there.


Good god man! First you wanted understated and behind the scene. Now you ask him to go for pocket squares? That is much more flash than me telling him to make a peak lapel one don't u think? Most high profiled suit wearers in Malaysia and even politicians don't wear pocket squares. Unless they want to be on the limelight often. And they are the ones who frequent Brioni, Emergildo, Hugo and such. Believe me seen them a lot of times already just in KLCC alone. Peak lapel or standard lapels don't differ much. But i do agree that peak lapel is a little more dressy than normal ones. Or maybe u classified normal lapels as working class people and peak lapels as the upper crust of the rich and famous? hahaha? I don't know man.

In the end, i wouldn't know if ojp's line of work requires him to wear suit or jacket. But he did indicate he is stretching putting extra mileage for the suit here. The Ronaldo one is ok it works night or day. Cue the casual Tuxedo jacket matches with shirt and jeans from Tissot ad of Michael Owen. Its poppin baby!! brows.gif

DinKnight, the Edmunser brand you went to is this one and not the KLCC one is it?

No 45 & 49 Jalan 3/23A Off Jalan Genting Kelang Taman Danau Kota , 53300 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan, Malaysia.
Tel: 60-3-41493228
Fax: 60-3-41497228

netmatrix
post May 13 2009, 01:14 AM

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QUOTE
Damn, you can sure type alot.  . Anyway do you certainly believe wide lapels are to stay? Take a look at Tom Ford's work in QoS. The notch lapels aren't too wide nor too slim. Or maybe your take on wide lapel refers to only peak lapels. Alright, then we have the double-breasted lapel. At the end of the day if you are a skinny guy, you would look ridiculous with those huge appalling "bat wings" spreading across your chest. He mentioned that he wanted something versatile, sorry but I strongly believe a huge peak lapel will not make the cut. I believe your point is to create an impact once in a while since one doesn't wear a coat often. Then you are utterly wrong. Remember, he wanted versatility. Not the spotlight.


Then what was all the talk about traditionalist and all? Those guys in US and UK seriously want to bring back the old style. Big belly lapels and all. Unfortunately i think you are exposed too much on Tom Ford. The other person wanting to make such an impact way before Tom Ford is Thome Browne.

http://www.crainsnewyork.com/article/20090325/FREE/903259892

Look at his stuff everywhere. And say Tom Ford inspired without a flinch. hahaha. You say Tom ford is revolutionary? Look at Thome Browne. BTW he is paying heavy price for his forward look. Whats up with slim cut fashion people having the same T on their names and brands anyway?

And old look market is definitely there. Eeryone wants to look like prince Charles. And there are many more willing to pay exorbitant price for period correct clothes. Really exorbitant prices POA baby.

http://www.the30sstyle.com/ <--- Unfortunately the tailor passed away.
http://www.mattdeckard.com/ <--- Would you believe i actually see this guy turn a passion into a career!

QUOTE
For the love of god, did you just mentioned a black suit!? Now what's the problem with charcoal? Well, personally I would leave black to those working as undertakers and mobsters. No need for me to go any further as I'm sure you know how much hatred it is against black in other foras. Funny it is, but people around me do notice details like peak lapels and ticket pockets more than the fit of the suit which is the second thing. Clearly, average people are much fascinated by details more than the right amount of cuffs, waist suppression, jacket length, blablabla unless connoisseurs deliberately take the time to scrutinize and judge you.


Yes the unanimous black suit. U see it everywhere. Would you wear a grey tone suit to your wedding? C'mon here. He ask for 2 in one. A peak lapel is formal and not formal if you make it work. There is nothing wrong. Every brand has them. Even Topman have them. I feel you contradict in getting him to be hidden in the masses, yet u ask him to wear shades of grey. How many weddings have you been that the groom wears shades of grey? Nothing wrong with black. Its just that it is too common. You could not make out a Stallion in a herd of black bulls. Average people who subscribes to fashion would make out this details. But the majority would not care because they have friends. brows.gif

QUOTE
Would you like to compare the price between a suit and a dozen of pocket squares? As far as I understand, the real gentleman will have more pocket squares than suits in order to play with the combination unless you are the other way round? More importantly, is it a sin to don pocket squares? And BTW FYI, our PM Najib wears a tie and pocket square most of the time. Do check out today's newspaper if you are totally oblivious of it.  If you do pay attention, he uses different pocket squares even though he is wearing the same suit most of the time. Perhaps the new cabinet will follow suit in the future.


Would you have a dozen of pocket squares if the suit is being worn once in a blue moon? Don't rely on that gentleman look thing much. If the gentleman's code is a bible to you, its a hobby to me. That is why we have diferent opinions. Easy right? Why are you insistant of forcing a gentleman's code of conduct on everyone? Many of them doesn't work now because we have assimilated ourselves with modernity and function. Women wants equal rights and all. Till now it remains a forum talk. rolleyes.gif

Najib? hahahaha. He wear double breasted 90% of the time. And yes he does have matching pocket squares and cufflinks. He even have pocket squares in some of his baju melayu combos. He grew up during british colonial rule, you figure it out. But i'm implying the majority (should have said this earlier). If everyone follows, its just to become "chat hai chai". When people want something they would do that. Our politicians does not have strong independent character. So NOT impressive are they, i forsee, that they actually use brands to cover their shortcomings. If you don't you are an outcast. And our political situation reflects that very much. I'm not oblivious to pictures or papers. I'm choosing to ignore pictures where there are politicians in it. On exception of Obama that is. Why are we talking about politics anyway? hahaha doh.gif

C'mon you know i don't hate or criticize pocket squares. I think its not a thing to have at the moment of modernity. Its kind of a stuffy accessory. Relegated to the trunks of yore. Hidden in dusty musky boxes, waiting for another fashion relevation.

I love to post long replies that makes me think. I'm not Terminator no dialog robot. So live with it. laugh.gif

DinKnight, no because KLCC does not have tailoring service as it is a ready made boutique. I was racking my head until i did a search. hahaha. And it makes sense as u are working near Genting.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: May 13 2009, 01:16 AM
netmatrix
post May 13 2009, 02:59 AM

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QUOTE
I'm going to be a mediator for both you gents and suggest midnight blue. 


No way! That is even more dressy. In fact velvet it and immediately get pimpified. hahaha

QUOTE
Contrary to that, I think a ps (plain white linen in tv fold) is the thing to have for a more complete modern look. I can't bare having my jacket's chest pocket feeling lonely.


You are just waiting to sneeze on it don't you? Achooo!!
netmatrix
post May 14 2009, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE
u'll have to visit the shop in plaza mt kiara


I think i know this shop. They were reviewed by the star sometime back. The carry a limited range of mens clothing. But a lot of womens stuff.

Calvinloke, i thought you might put up a good clean debate too. But unfortunately when one starts to include Ass, Fat, d*** blah blah in their vocabulary, one knows that they are cornered like hunted prey. Sigh...

Ok i summarize a little more. I'm sure any mature minded guys can get it.

1: Net say, Ojp get black suit with peak lapel like Ronaldo. Feel like player of the year.
2: Black is ok because its acceptable everywhere and popular night till day.
3: No need pocket square, unless u fancy and got money.
4: Most politicians don't wear pocket square. If they do, there is an agenda. (Que bowtie fiasco)
5: 1930's is not about the dictator. Its about the survivor. World history section in most book stores... PLEASE.
6: Thome Brown tried, but he died (financially that is). I give him honours for that.
7: I'm not glorifying large lapels. I'm giving them a chance in modern times.
8: Calvinloke says proportion is tradition at least 2 times since he talked to me. Net says Fashion is Imagination (Generally).
9: Jin86 says Ronaldo suit looks like this pic. Calvinloke says, this is tuxedo. (Why? oh why? oh why?)
10: In stating everyone wants to look like Prince Charles, i did not say pocket square. U are too facinated by it. I was relating to what u call bat wings on this all time favourite McDouble Breasted® suit. U weren't paying attention.

Now don't be vulgar ya? laugh.gif

This post has been edited by netmatrix: May 14 2009, 12:29 AM
netmatrix
post May 14 2009, 01:03 AM

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QUOTE
actually it has lots of treasures to look out for

good branded jackets, jeans, tshirts, shirts to grab.


Unfortunately probably the last place i would shop for clothes there. Its too far from my place. And i only happen to come by that place when i was at my customers place. That too after i read the article. If not maybe it was because i was hitting toys R Us to look for toys. Errr another perk of mine. brows.gif
netmatrix
post May 14 2009, 02:12 PM

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In forums when one sees Ass, Fat, d*** and such in a same paragraph, it indicates tension. Unless u include some jokes aside it then we can see the difference. I did not overlook how the words are arranged mind you. Ahh... crap here i go looking at people at face value again. I do not snap at asteriks as they are part of the forum censor feature. That u probably had a bad day or something yesterday. Today its more composed. And something didn't snap. I give you that. flex.gif

1: I have 2 cashmere coats in ash dark ash grey. So i do not hate shades of grey including charcoal. The only grey i have seen in weddings is Morning coat. Navy is a hit and miss affair. Black is bang for the buck. How come u never mentioned brown? That would be a stand out feature.
2: What other colors that are drowned are you talking about? From the other people around the wearer or the wearer himself?
3: I have never once say junk pocket squares! I did say it is not the thing to have now.
4: Well Najib McDouble Breasted® pocket square was bought up. Stop till the politics section? Agree then.
5: Nope. Its was in USA great depression. Europe when it was close to WW1. I love big fat black and white books with pictures.
6: ........
7: That is what i'm trying to say all along. Modern cut with classic details. Not pocket square classic detail "accessory".
8: Proportion would not work if there is a look to be achieved. How do you proportion a 1/2 length coat or 3/4 length or waist length coat? A fashion designer would say i want this look, that look. Not proportion but cut. If following by proportion we would not be able to see couture range in runways. Sad eh?
9: Ditto!!!
10: So u mean Price Charles look MUST have a pocket square? Then it must always be check worsted wool too ya? Solid colors are daff in British upper crust society. Especially royalty.
11: Not necessary. By the time we are done, there would be enough reference material here already. icon_rolleyes.gif

No war, no love. Just the gratification of knowing how much information can be dugged out about suits and such. icon_idea.gif

e_trade_pj - I would say that is a pocket liner...... hahahaha. No lar. Maybe a 2 peaks or 3 peaks would look better. Puts a dialog on the guy that says, " BANG! Dig my pocket square!" laugh.gif

QUOTE
Pocket square or handkerchief in tv fold. It is an accessory to enhance the look of your suit and hence you can choose whether use it or not.
Some gents love it, preaching that it will complete the look while some detests it, saying that it is for blowing your nose. Do note though, that it is not to be used for blowing your nose but if you must, use the handy pocket tissue pack.


Most would use it to flash up the suit. But usually no one has them. I carry a hankie all the time.
netmatrix
post May 15 2009, 12:12 AM

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Ok junk all that David Letterman top 1-10 stuff. Start anew again. Dude! That J Cash song is word! hahaha. Thanks for the title, i found the song in youtube. It makes a whole lot of sense of a person giving an ode to society! The lyrics is cool! Its not mourning like u assume it is at all. All this while i thought Will Smith's Men in Black was cool. wink.gif

Black that reminds me of the CNY ad where their mom makes them wear red. hahaha. Anyway if u are in USA or UK black is can be formal or funeral. Depends how you pull it off. If you look like Paul Bearer that is another story. hahaha. Black in malaysia isn't risky. Its safe. So safe, no one would question your choice. If your best friend have a western wedding, 90% he would wear black. I wonder till what means would you use to convert him to charcoal? hahaha. No really... laugh.gif


netmatrix
post May 15 2009, 07:37 PM

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It can be done while you are tying a tie of after. Though while tying is better, because the fold would be inside. Where creating one would be a little more work. Or you could get something like this.

user posted image

Source from, http://www.dimpler.com/
netmatrix
post May 17 2009, 08:13 PM

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Hey you got to include ® after the name or risk getting sued by Mc owners just like McCurry did. hahah
netmatrix
post May 18 2009, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE
i'm a bit better. i can see three hands!!! 


Wooooooooooooo!!!!!!
netmatrix
post May 24 2009, 11:32 AM

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Hi Hako, that is a good looking coat. But i think the design is a little too grown up for your kid. Whats more the cutting seems to be a lot roomier than what is the trend nowdays.

Whats more the stripes and color would be quite hard to match with anything that is dark. But i think it would look great with brown (color flow) or dark grey pants (contrast).

I think your son would probably want something more updated and black if he had his way. But of course being a parent and you only would spend so much for formal wear, then this would do. Make it work. heheh.


netmatrix
post May 25 2009, 05:15 PM

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Jin86, i think coduroy even if it is brown would be too harsh as the textured fabric would clash with the fabric and stripes. I still think a plain brown polyester, cotton or mix one would go with that. But i do believe a jeans would work if you pair it up with an updated medium colored V neck open t-shirt long or short sleeved. cool2.gif

calcd, the nearest overseas tailor of choice would be Bangkok. I don't know of the quality, but the deals are crazy. 1 suit jacket 2 pants 2 shirts and a tie package that cost RM1000. Steal eh? Its wool mix btw. But the air fare isn't going to make up the savings. shakehead.gif

Hako, there is this funny fashion thing that i found is true. But i don't know if you have tried it or not. Its like this, your suit jacket is primarily brown, but it has reddish stripes. So you match the reddish striped with your reddish tie or shirt. For pants, of course u can't match the reddish color to that, so you match it closest to brown. I tested it with tie and shirt, it is true. I have this micro check pink woven shirt that i purposely bought a dark blue with pink quare prints on them. It looks good. Then i realise there is actually a color cordination card that is being sold for clothes! wink.gif
netmatrix
post May 25 2009, 06:10 PM

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hako u got it a little right. Actually i was a little messed up here. Its like you want to repeat the color in another piece of clothing you have. Easy right? Lets say your shirt is white background and has brown check (square pattern) on it. Then you can match it with a brown tie. Or your have a brown tie that you want to match with your pants. Its not necessary all article of the clothing must have same scheme. Its just matching at least 2 articles.

If you are daring, you could match the shirt color with the lining color. Actually the lining color is a dead giveway to matching clothes. If the lining color matches the coat then you should get a shirt the same color as the lining. simple eh? No mistakes guaranteed.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: May 25 2009, 06:11 PM
netmatrix
post May 26 2009, 02:14 AM

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Hako, those are straight cut pants. So it confirms the suit is probably 2-3 years old.

kinderbueno, Mafia themed? One of my watched stuff. Double breasted suit, some printed tie and fedora hat. Majority of the suits in the picture is brown and not black.

user posted image

Of course you could modernize it a little. Does the picture help?

This post has been edited by netmatrix: May 26 2009, 02:18 AM

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