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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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netmatrix
post Feb 19 2009, 01:20 PM

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Well its just me i guess. I could say Melinda Looi's designs are too quirky for men. Maybe on her part some inspiration from that came somewhere. I'm no expert but i think could look better. Oh yeah forgot to mention the lapel rool is very long, and there is a curve at the edges or is it because of the camera angle?

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Feb 19 2009, 06:40 PM
netmatrix
post Feb 19 2009, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE
owh thx.can i know the philosophy man price ranges?


Depends on what you want to buy. I have seen T-shirts as low as RM29 during sales there. The highest i would not know, but i recon the Adidas shoes that they stock there should be the priciest at RM399. Unless there is jewellery that i didn't check out.

Btw here is something interesting for suit, coat or jacket wearers to see.



I checked out their prices 3,500.00 SEK = 1,490.13 MYR Its Swedish cash. Seems to rival Topman, Zara & M&S.
netmatrix
post Feb 20 2009, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE
yo guys, i need to know some good tailor recommendations, may want to get another suit done, Lord's didn't live up to my expectations.. anyone have any good recommendations of made-to-measure or custom made?


Can't think of any brand name with presence in medias that i could recommend. Unless you are willing to pay Brioni or Emergildo Zegna a visit that is. Maybe should start being friendly to the local nearest tailor for benefits. hehehe

QUOTE
Close to RM1.5k. That's rather closer to upscale Massimo Dutti's suit price range compared to sister boutique Zara's. 


Well they some as a suit as for what the website shows. I wonder if they package it with the shirt and tie? Any of the brands mentioned would still cost above 1K if not on sale. Massimo Dutti? I thought no one like that here. hahaha.

Actually my point is most off the rack stuff is somewhat like in that factory. Can imagine seeing the labels made in China, India, Spain, Malaysia, blah blah and the factories are almost like that. Now need to find video of greasy factories with underpaid staff and underaged workers videos. Enlightenment on how some industries are run by irrresponsible business men.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Feb 20 2009, 10:11 AM
netmatrix
post Feb 21 2009, 12:07 AM

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In the end perfection is all for yourself. If one aims to dress to please the crowd then we might as well be a celebrity while we are at it.
netmatrix
post Feb 26 2009, 12:07 AM

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Server crashed, everything missing. Here is the Granoff brand told by Jin reviewed in The Star again. rclxub.gif

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?...&sec=lifeliving

BlueKM, saw that type of jacket 3 years ago. It was started by a suit shop Damanchi (I think) in Mid Valley. I forgot the name, they have a lot of non traditional designs like the snap bar buttons. I remember when they put up the suit on the manequin that day, a lot of people was checking it out. Its "almost" revolutionary. SUB seems to use this design since last year. I saw the jacket being worn by some celebs before and some photo shoots by some local lifestyle magazine.


The one you have seems to evolved. I noticed there is no lapels. And i think there is a cut away mandarin style collar at the back. Can reference this design to some Sci Fi movies like Star Trek or Battlestar Galactica. Well better late than never! nod.gif

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Feb 26 2009, 12:17 AM
netmatrix
post Feb 28 2009, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE
BlueKM - the jacket is a little too funky for my taste, maybe next time go for like a suit jacket with lapels and with 3 or 2 buttons.. guys is that even considered a suit jacket btw?


Its a modern take. I like sci-fi movies a lot and you can see the designs from these shows cropping up here and there. The only ultra sharp cut suit i have ever seen is worn by Ben Afleck in PAYCHECK. user posted image

The other one is worn by Regis Philbin who is the host of the first America's Got Talent. It is made by Brioni. Its is sharp and the shell looks very hard and metallic. I like it. Its kind of hard to come by the suit pictures he wears on the show. Here is one, but its black!user posted image

But in the end we have to admit that these modern non traditional designs will be mainstream down the road.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Feb 28 2009, 11:45 AM
netmatrix
post Mar 1 2009, 09:48 AM

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QUOTE
i don't see how ben's and regis' suit is similar to BlueKM's, as far as i can tell, ben's and regis' suit jacket looks like any traditional suit jacket where else BlueKM's one has no lapels, is a five button-jacket, etc..


I'm pointing out at the transition period. Not a direct source where they came from. Ben's and Regis suits to me are showing where the suit designs are heading. The cutting is sharp once more just like the 50s'. The current, slim look is also inspired from the 50s'. You could look at thousands of photos and videos of people in the 50s' in America and Europe with such looks. Its the 70s' that killed off these slim looks. How about Thom Browne? His suits are crazy!!! Last few years he had pants that ride up high and reveal socks!! He is vastly hated in traditionalist suit supporters. But you look at what he is wearing in the video and his designes!



Another good example is Commes Des Cargon. Look at this. user posted image I know this picture is not the best. Yes, i know the guy in red is in a zoot suit look a like. Look at Jim Carrey's The mask. The current ones are more updated, But they are crazy as well. They try to define how a suit jacket should look. Here is a site on their current stuff. Though its auction, its very new. And its still cold there so a lot of winter stuff.

http://list2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/20840...cale=0jp&mode=1

http://list2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/20840...cale=0jp&mode=1

BlueKM's suit is another recreation/ vision by a small group of people that thinks suits wuld probably look this way. Still retain some traditional features, but futuristic details. Its interesting, its a conversation piece. But i would not wear it though. wink.gif

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Mar 1 2009, 10:01 AM
netmatrix
post Mar 2 2009, 09:26 AM

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Indeed fashion comes and goes and then makes a comeback. It seems that suits are heading towards silk-blends for the futuristic looks that you have pointed out.


Fabric plays a part in how it will look. But the cut is somewhat important. This is because a sillouette is determined by a persons body. Because in the end a tailor would make the suit based on a persons body, even if the client says he wants stuff looking like from GQ.

BlueKM, that suit can be purchased off the rack. I saw the exact same jacket, single button peak lapel coat at Padini JUSCO mid valley last year. The cut is not slim but its not roomy either. And the length much shorter and lands just slightly less than the usual on the lap coats. This year i did not check out their stuff this year.

Jind86, I saw that magazine. I think the picture is weird. Probably Justin hunching forward making his head bigger and his waist even smaller than it is. But i hate the tie, it has no body and definition. It looks like its pasted on. hahaha. Also did you read The Star Clove section yesterday? They had a fashion spread on a stripe suit that looks like your Melinda Looi one. I mentioned your pocket flaps looks like an afterthought. But the ones in the paper look much better and welds itself as a part of the suit. That is how i said it could work better. But i hate their hipster pants.
netmatrix
post Mar 2 2009, 09:10 PM

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Its not a dream design. Its an old design from the 50s-70s. They updated it for year 2008. I'm sure its peak lapel, single button. And its black. I'll see if Padini still have this design and "try" to take a picture for you. Prices? Well their coat alone starts from RM299. Their highest range i have seen is RM499. Get the pants still less than RM1K. But you cannot get that particular anime look, because the coat length is not as long as that.
netmatrix
post Mar 2 2009, 10:42 PM

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But if you want something that is anime 'able' glam, fab, high fashion, a little couture and some shock factor, there is this one brand..... I'm kind of reluctant to show this brand. Mainly because its expensive and you can only find it in one place. I nearly bought one of their "Ceremonia" range suits because it was on discount. But had some problem with the fitting. Here is a video of their Ceremonia range. There is one daily wear range called "Outside". But ts not being sold here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzsGX8WjaYk

Before anyone go, thats wedding wear!!! Yes it is, but you can ditch the accessories that comes with the suit and it will definitely turn itself one notch above the regular suits you see anywhere. If you want attention, this is the one to get. Nothing in any of the other brands except the couture line from Versace can match this. If i have the time, maybe i could dig back the old issues of the catalog i have on the old release and post it here.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Mar 2 2009, 10:49 PM
netmatrix
post Mar 3 2009, 05:49 PM

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You mean tails. hahaha. Very hard to pull off tails to mix with regular clothes. Will make anyone look a little clownish. Nearly own one long time ago. But could did not like the short front of the coat.

If you like to wear them all the time, might as well join a ballroom dance class and enter competitions. Surely a need for tails in Waltz or something. Kind of jealous of them guys and gals able to take part in the Debutante events. hehehe.

I known some people who purposely go and see opera and classical music just to get dressed up! The lucky ones are socialites where there is one guy who has a column in The Star. But its an expensive affair. Though you get to know a lot of people.

The only recent time where i have to wear a coat was when i have my MyKad changed during CNY last month. Lets say i was the only guy with a tie and a suit that day among hundreds of people. Erk!!
netmatrix
post Mar 4 2009, 08:46 AM

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QUOTE
Ah, actually what I love are edward coats. Although, I own a tailcoat too due to my special interest in whatever coats that still carry some victorian influences but I have no chance wear it. If you hate tailcoats, try morning coats with cutaway fronts (which I also own) but they cannot be used in the evening, as the name suggests. Yes, I have some strange attachments to coats and whatnot... both antique and modern.  And thanks to ye' olde brit forums like LL, I have been gaining a lot of past century sartorial knowledge.


Morning coats, it is even harder to pull off if you decide to mix and match. I mean they are just that as a whole suit. Usually grey in color and sometimes the pants are striped. A cane and a top hat too! I have been hanging out at other forums as well. Specifically this, www.thefedoralounge.com. But those guys are all for 1903s'.

QUOTE
i have other shirts to alter i live around bangsar, so klang valley and kl is most welcomed! thank you!


Bangsar don't have any tailors at all? I remember BSC has a tailor too. But i didn't go to BSC for so long now. Since you were at KLCC why not visit "Ruths" which is recommended by Jind86?
netmatrix
post Mar 4 2009, 05:14 PM

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Most of the RM100-200 suits are polyester. Kamdar, Mydin, Carrefour, Reject Shop, Some RM199 ready made in many tailoring shops.

I suspect the shop was set in there so the people who didn't wear appropriate clothes to be in Parliment can get it straight away there. Suit from a souvenir shop? Thats a first. hahah.
netmatrix
post Mar 5 2009, 10:42 AM

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QUOTE
i am skinny, so cant get any suit from the rack easily. Any recommendation:

1. get one that most fitted and alter
2. get a tailor

how much it will cost me for most of the brands?

by the way, where can i learn these suit stuff ...

what is blazer? can i just get a blazer or something? look at those mat salleh, they are quite nice with jacket or whatever you call on them .. are those suit / blazer / jacket ...


1. You are in luck. Most brands like Topman, Zara would cater to your need. But for skinny/slim the better bet is Topman. Those cost slightly less than RM1000. If on tighter budget, you could opt for G2000, Padini or SEED. RM800-900 would get you a suit. Sometimes G200 offer free pants with a coat. So you pay about RM599 for one.

2. Its a trial and error. A good tailor for one doesn't mean he/she would be good for another customer. For it all boils down to how he/she is trained. And what suit styles the tailor like to make.

Learn? How much do you want to learn? If you want to learn about suitmaking, a fashion school would be the first place to start. If you want to learn generally about suits, here is a good place to start. Just ask questions and probably you get your answers. Else you need to surf the net and search for what you need to know about suits.

A blazer is just a coat and not a part of a suit. Most blazers come with gold or silver button. Which is from the old ways. Pants and coat are of different color. Usually dark blue for blazer. But most of the non matching coats are called jackets nowdays. Diffrent country different definition. And in fact there is no clear line between suit jacket, coat, blazer or jacket.
netmatrix
post Mar 5 2009, 09:09 PM

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I like french cuffs. But the only problem with these kind of cuffs is you have a hard time rolling the sleeves if you want to. Not to mention the possibility of loosing the links! Well if can gain access to books which feature people from the 50-70's cuff link wearers are a plenty. Even in good old Malaysia. Shirt sleeves in the 80-90s' were normal sleeves but there are 2 holes to accomodate cuff links. Nowdays cuffs are either 2 buttons and fancy or only french cuffs. RAOUL seems to focus on cuffs and collars design a lot.
netmatrix
post Mar 6 2009, 10:44 AM

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Ahhh.... there are people who visits fabric shops. I thought i was alone. hehehe.
netmatrix
post Mar 8 2009, 12:22 AM

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I still remember that RM500 per metre range of suiting material i saw at Euro Moda. Can afford to touch only!
netmatrix
post Mar 8 2009, 12:54 AM

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Unfortunately the only way is to wear the pants higher. I'm fat too.
netmatrix
post Mar 8 2009, 08:54 AM

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QUOTE
darn my slack kinda tailored for lower thn waist. Seems like time for some shopping.what brand have the cutting to make guyz with fat thigh and hip look better in shape?


No way you can get off the rack to get the sillouette you want!!! No freaking way!! its 1 over 50 chances a person is perfectly fitted for off the rack clothes. Thin and fat people included. So it is not possible to recommend brands for fat people, but only to recommend places to go to find stuff. You can't be a choosy for waist 40 and above. Since you got some stuff tailored, why not ask them to make stuff that gives you a slimmer impression?
netmatrix
post Mar 9 2009, 01:29 PM

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That picture of the jacket is somewhat a modern and classic take. There is a external felt support on the collar area. I d/l and corrected the gamma and you can see it. The patch pockets are adorned with sewing details. This is the only part that is very interesting. So interesting that a designer can actually come up with various designs based on this standard one alone! drool.gif

The jacket is held down with a giant safety pin. This was a big as womens accessories few years back. You still could get some from womens acc dept. nod.gif

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