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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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TSjind86
post Nov 7 2009, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 16 2009, 10:19 PM)
How to work with Ah Loke to get optimal suit
MEASUREMENT

13. Get the sleeve rotation right. He will resist. If it isn't right, insist they be rotated.

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how exactly do you tell whether the sleeve rotation is right?
TSjind86
post Nov 9 2009, 05:09 PM

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QUOTE(epuel @ Nov 9 2009, 05:44 AM)
can u tell me what is the price range from all this shop?
is it possible to get a slim fit coat under rm200?  hmm.gif
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below 200 no.. during sales you probably could get around 200+..
TSjind86
post Nov 10 2009, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 9 2009, 11:33 PM)
its normal


Added on November 9, 2009, 11:41 pmthe reason your other RTW suits were easier to put on and looser was because you bought them too big.


Added on November 9, 2009, 11:48 pmSo, as I said, I was at Jackel yesterday.

I looked at and touched one of their display suits. It's the one in that cheapo cloth at the entrance to the men's section where all the suiting and shirting fabrics are; it's the room with the immensely plush carpet.

Awful. Zero horsehair in the lapels, so they were spineless and flappy. Machine-sewn buttonholes. I'm sure if I spent more time inspecting it other monstrosities will surface, but two salespeople were looking on at me like I was a Tan Sri visiting them. The price for workmanship is between 700-800. A stupid price for a fused suit. This is one of those places for the clueless.
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what exactly are the horsehair on the lapels for?

QUOTE(AiRseaL @ Nov 10 2009, 08:18 PM)
kotmj,, thanks ya. so have u ever worry u might tear the thread when u wearing the suit? after all its all hand sown so really hope to take care of it.
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tear the thread? i don't that is very likely unless the stitching were not finished properly, under normal wear (no WWE stuff) should be fine..
TSjind86
post Nov 11 2009, 08:41 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 10 2009, 09:46 PM)

Added on November 10, 2009, 9:49 pmLook it up yourself regarding function of horsehair. Don't tell me you dun know.
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well i didn't.. which is why i asked..

QUOTE(FusioneX @ Nov 11 2009, 02:21 AM)
It functions exactly like the chest canvas piece, to provide the lapel with body, shape or stiffness.
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aha.. thanks mate..
TSjind86
post Nov 12 2009, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 11 2009, 08:46 PM)
You needn't even look it up. You can infer its function in the lapel from it's function elsewhere.

BTW is a Lord's suit half-canvassed?


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:53 pmAlso, are the lapels padded in a Lord's suit? You can check by looking for many small dimples in the cloth on the underside of the lapel.


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:55 pmAlso, are the buttonholes hand-sewn? You can check by looking at the backside of the buttonhole. See if the stitching is neat or ugly.
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mine's fused..

i'll get back to you on the lapel padding and hand sewn buttonholes..
TSjind86
post Nov 12 2009, 08:04 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 11 2009, 08:46 PM)
You needn't even look it up. You can infer its function in the lapel from it's function elsewhere.

BTW is a Lord's suit half-canvassed?


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:53 pmAlso, are the lapels padded in a Lord's suit? You can check by looking for many small dimples in the cloth on the underside of the lapel.


Added on November 11, 2009, 8:55 pmAlso, are the buttonholes hand-sewn? You can check by looking at the backside of the buttonhole. See if the stitching is neat or ugly.
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i dont see any "dimples" on the lapel.. will take a picture soon.. are padded lapels considered "better"?

well if i would say, the stitching of the buttonhole doesn't look neat.. will get a picture of that too for you guys to see..

btw where u getting your next suit from?
QUOTE(calvinloke @ Nov 12 2009, 07:07 PM)
Eh?? I always thought yours is at least half canvassed for the premium price.
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well i think the price is pretty normal right? like they charge RM1000 for their service, for instance ah loke charged RM650 right? but that was without buttons, lining, etc? mine was included.. i guess brands like lord's and bespoked are a little more well known so they charge a higher price..

This post has been edited by jind86: Nov 12 2009, 08:12 PM
TSjind86
post Nov 13 2009, 02:28 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 13 2009, 12:49 AM)
I am still looking for my next tailor. I would be very happy to use Ah Loke again, but am exploring the possibility of using someone else who can give me old-world quality. I have yet to find that someone, but will search for him this weekend.


Added on November 13, 2009, 1:05 amBTW I'm also interested in the answers to the same questions regarding your brother's suit from the tailor in The Gardens. I forgot the name.
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granoff..

so where do i find this "dimple"? inside the suit jacket where the lining is or just the back of the lapel?
TSjind86
post Nov 14 2009, 01:35 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Nov 13 2009, 07:35 PM)
Jind86, I use language with great precision. Please read my description again.
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i just wanted to re-confirm buddy.. or you could take it as my english isn't that good.. you didn't have to give me that kind of answer..

QUOTE(shirley_andy @ Nov 13 2009, 09:23 PM)
May I know why?
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because a short sleeve should be short and a long sleeve should be long.. it just looks weird with three quarter shirts.. my advice is to buy a long sleeve and fold em up..

QUOTE(LinctusForte @ Nov 14 2009, 12:29 AM)
yo guys... for those looking for affordable tailor to make ur suits, i have 1 to recommend.  it's Gent's Attire at Sea Park PJ.

they charge about RM850 for mixed blend wool (mostly from jap fabric) and RM 1250 for high quality wools imported from england or italy.

you have a wide variety of fabric to choose from. and i'm currently making my 2nd suit there.

for sure the materials used are not like those u get in granoff or lords or watever famous one, but this tailor has more than 25 years of exp in making suits so just bring the photo of the suit u want and tell him to follow. i asked for slim fit for my first suit and it turned out exactly what i wanted.

they also offered to alter my first slack as i feel it's a bit too tight after 3 months. FOC yeah... that's y i am happy and i feel thier after sales service is good.

IMO, you don't necessary have to go for those super duper famous suit makers to make ur suit, but some lower budgets ones can deliver just what you wanted provided u give the right instructions and be certain of the changes you need when you are doing the 2nd fitting.

cheerios....
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cool.. mind sharing some pictures of you in your suit? =)
TSjind86
post Nov 14 2009, 03:50 AM

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ok thanks for the english lesson.. ive no time to argue here..
TSjind86
post Nov 14 2009, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(shirley_andy @ Nov 14 2009, 06:23 PM)
But then a long sleeve looks too formal, while a short sleeve look too boyish..
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then you could say three quarters look too girl-ish.. a long sleeve shirt is not formal, in fact there are so many kinds of long sleeve shits, some more casual looking - military style shirt?

QUOTE(hymo @ Nov 14 2009, 08:27 PM)
I don't know about the others, but I am very visually-oriented. How about a few pictures?


Added on November 14, 2009, 8:31 pm
I can't believe a college student with reading deficiencies would suspend me for 1 week because I pointed that out. My posts were all within the boundaries of good public discourse.

That was unwise, Jind86. You've just made yourself an enemy.
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is this a threat? i PM-ed you and i'll clarify again, it was not me who removed your post and it was not me who proposed the suspension.. looks like someone reported you or another staff found you out of line as well.. besides, i just came online.. if you're not satisfied kindly report at the Help Desk or email helpdesk@lowyat.net..
TSjind86
post Nov 15 2009, 06:48 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Nov 14 2009, 11:55 PM)
I actually hated people uttering the word formal all the time. Wearing a long sleeve shirt or dress pants is not formal at all. And I've been accused of wearing formal wear everyday. What the hell?
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yupp i know what you mean.. i often get "going for job interview?" when im wearing dress shirt and khakis.. sweat.gif

i will find a right place to pin up your picture =D
TSjind86
post Nov 20 2009, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(don8ld @ Nov 19 2009, 06:05 PM)
When would you wear a sport coat?
Casual wear, like with jeans and t shirt?
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yes.. sure..

QUOTE(Imdarren @ Nov 19 2009, 08:34 PM)
Hey guys, i'm posting here for the first time. I'm in serious need of advice.

College prom is coming up next friday, and im one of the nominees for prom king. That said, i dont wanna show up looking like a total fool. I do have a suit which was passed on to me by my father. But the suit fits so badly that its criminal if i ever don it in public. The shoulder's are too wide, triple buttoned(old fashioned and unsophisticated), no VENTS. Everything, just everything about is wrong.

I dont think i have time to get a tailor made suit nor do i have the money to spend on it  cry.gif  So i was thinking of buying a ready made slim fitting suit. But i really really need advice on where to get a bargain. It doesn't have to be from high-end designer labels.
I wouldn't mind getting only the blazer itself as i have some fabric which i can go tailor into fitting slacks. Would a budget of 400-500 seem reasonable? I will be checking on zara and topman tomorrow.

I would prefer something like double buttoned low cut, side vents, and slim fitting. Basically, hip and modern, not like over sized and bad cutting.

Thanks you in advance guys. i really need any help i can get  tongue.gif  blush.gif
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er, yes it is possible to get a nice slim cut jacket for around RM400-RM500, the shops you mentioned are the perfect place in my opinion.. however do remember a suit is suppose to consists at least a matching jacket and pant.. which means if you buy your jacket from here and your pant from there, the contrast, texture and the color will very likely be different, and its basically not going to look proper.. ideally it is best to get both the suit and pant from the same material.. however this is not always possible, if you still wish to get them separately, you have to make sure both the materials look identical..
TSjind86
post Nov 21 2009, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(kockroach @ Nov 20 2009, 04:52 PM)
Can we get tailor to shorten the jacket sleeve? Is a rtw though
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to a certain extent shld be possible..
TSjind86
post Nov 26 2009, 04:07 PM

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QUOTE(bibg @ Nov 26 2009, 02:08 PM)
hey pros, i need a little advice.

what type/colour/pattern of tie is suitable to coordinate with a checkered shirt? and is a checkered shirt-suit combination weird? fyi, the checks are micro checks. and also where i can find a cheap decent white belt for formal wear?

would be delighted if you guys helped me out! smile.gif urgent stuff man  notworthy.gif
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bold shirt = plain tie..

nothing weird with checkered shirt and a suit..

user posted image
TSjind86
post Dec 2 2009, 03:28 AM

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QUOTE(DikkieD @ Dec 1 2009, 10:48 PM)
I've read - almost - the complete thread. Great intel on all the stores. I've set my mind on a tailor made suit, but I have an event next week. I decided to go for a RTW suit first, and just have some alterations. Will go to Bespoked 1U with that suit too.

I walked past the suit department in Parkson Pavilion. It looks like they can alter suits too. Is it unwise to go and buy a RTW suit over there? I have a budget of around 1k to 1.2k for this suit (included alterations). Do you guys think it's possible to have it ready before saturday evening if I'd buy one tomorrow? Any other place within Pavilion (are BB area) that you would recommend.

Or would you just recommend to get a cheap ass M&C one at KLCC and save my money for the Bespoked 1U one?

Thanks!
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hmmm.. the alteration period is a little short i think.. but of course it depends on what kind of alterations you're going to do..

i'd say go for a good RTW, alter it and use it.. no point spending like RM700 on a tacky suit.. i'd recommend checking out Robinson in Gardens.. good range of suits there.. if you still insist on shopping in Pavillion, then check out Zara, they provide in-house alterations too..
TSjind86
post Dec 2 2009, 05:46 PM

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QUOTE(DikkieD @ Dec 2 2009, 04:37 PM)
I deffo cannot get a rtw smile.gif, my shoulders are way too broad from swimming. Perfect fit is a nogo. Tried a couple of rtw suits today at Parkson Pavilion. Had a nice talk btw with the inhouse tailor. Don't know much about this whole tailor business smile.gif, but it was quite nice to have a talk. He sounded to me as a person that did know a thing or two about tailoring smile.gif (which is quite obvious, though I can imagine there are tailors and tailors).

Anyways, we soon discovered that rtw suits look aweful on me. Alterations on a rtw suit weren't possible over there, and I doubt whether I would want that. He said: shoulders 44, waist 42 smile.gif (just when I arrived and the first nice looking rtw suit over there).

I looked at some fabrics. The 60%/40% syntetic suits where priced between RM1450 and RM1600. The pure wools started at around RM2000. I saw some 160's or whatever for RM7200....quite the prices if you'd ask me.

I had myself convinced I shouldn't buy a syntetic suit. I want a 280g 100's wool if possible. The color is still unclear. I hate black and like a lighter color like grey(ish with a blue teint). Don't know yet. The tailor told me the fastest he could do it was in two weeks. I told him I didn't want a rushjob, as I have ample time since I live here smile.gif

Anyways....is it really that bad to choose a 60/40 wool tailormade suit? Or would you guys always suggest a 100 percent wool suit?

I am in doubt, mainly because I like the fact that Pavilion is nearby and a place like Bespoked 1U is way out of my area. Can I get a 100 percent wool suit for RM2200 over there?

hmm...this has proven to be rather difficult smile.gif
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if you want wool blend, then you could probably find mohair or cashmere mix.. that would lower down your cost a little.. but RM2200 is enough to get you a pure wool, tailor made suit.. so you mite as well go for pure wool.. bespoked has high reviews from some guys here, so do check it out if you have the time..
TSjind86
post Dec 2 2009, 09:26 PM

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i'd probably not go for a synthetic-material tailor made suit.. either mix wool consisting of wool and other natural fibers or pure wool..
TSjind86
post Dec 3 2009, 12:36 AM

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@kotmj - very nice.. really like the buttons.. how much did you pay for this one?
TSjind86
post Dec 3 2009, 01:13 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 3 2009, 12:52 AM)
Cloth RM 370 + Buttons RM 75 + Silk lining RM 75 + Workmanship RM 600 = RM 1120
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very good price too.. half canvassed i assume? hmmm.. i think if i get a suit from there i'll tell him to follow your specifications lol..


Added on December 3, 2009, 1:25 ami just need to get 1 perfect suit then at least i could get it copied in the future.. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by jind86: Dec 3 2009, 01:25 AM
TSjind86
post Dec 4 2009, 03:00 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 3 2009, 01:39 AM)
The probability of you replicating what I've made AL do for me is not very high. I'm a specialist at giving technical direction: to programmers, to industrial engineers, to technicians, both locals and Europeans. (Notice the perfectly fitted back. It's a first for Ah Loke. Also, the open quarters are completely new for Ah Loke.)

I forgot to mention: The lapels are fully pad-stitched across the whole surface. (Another first for him.)
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then i guess ive to follow you to make your next suit and get one myself so you could help me out tongue.gif

QUOTE(lanatir @ Dec 4 2009, 01:06 AM)
Kinslager's latest promo

Special Offer for Young Professionals : Tailor-made 2-pc Suit (Mixed Wool) + Shirt (2-ply Cotton) + Tie (Silk) from RM 780 nett. Offer ends 31st December '09.

u can search for them on facebook
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wow.. custom shirts only RM128..

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