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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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TSjind86
post Aug 22 2009, 07:01 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 22 2009, 06:00 PM)
If you felt that there is padding on your bespoke jacket's chest, that means it is a good quality jacket since it has proper canvassing between the outer shell and the inner lining. It is what gives jackets proper shape on the chest. Most off-the-rack jackets has either very thin canvassing, fused canvassing (thick glue) or no canvassing at all to cut cost. Thank your tailor for his proper job.  smile.gif
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there is padding on the jacket's chest? hmmm..

QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 22 2009, 06:31 PM)

Added on August 22, 2009, 6:33 pmI was wondering why my post count of 555 got messed up after posting in here and it just hit me that post count has finally been enabled in this subforum. Haha. This is a good feature indeed since contributions are rewarded.
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lol.. anyway this is just temporary.. should be disabled soon..
TSjind86
post Aug 22 2009, 08:01 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 22 2009, 07:10 PM)
Yeap. Slight padding in the sense of canvassing (I think padding might not be a correct term for shell canvassing since most people might relate it to foam padding). Full canvassing extends from the chest till the bottom shell ham but they're made of layers of horsehair, cloth,etc, normally forming a three-layer hand-stitched canvas pad. Picture:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


When I look for suit jackets, I normally pinch the shell to look for canvassing before making the purchase decision.

-

Temporary?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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yeah, i guess i never looked at it that way as it being extra padding on the chest..

yeah temporary.. cos with the post count enabled, its going to attract ppl which has no interest in this section but simply come here and spam to increase their post count.. so until we have a better system, i think its best we keep this section for those who are genuinely interested to share here..
TSjind86
post Aug 23 2009, 10:13 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 22 2009, 08:07 PM)
That's true in a way since I've seen a lot of forumers giving help-seekers silly answers and offer wrong solutions in the Technical Support section just to increase their post count. Let us all observe and see how things go with the post count enabled. Hope there'll be good results instead, like more contributors.
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i'll let the admins decide whether to enable or disable.. so we'll see how it goes..

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user posted image

beautiful suit, and beautiful emma watson..


Added on August 23, 2009, 10:13 pmi think im now in love with burberry..

This post has been edited by jind86: Aug 23 2009, 10:14 PM
TSjind86
post Aug 24 2009, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 24 2009, 12:53 AM)
Ah. I remember that pic. It was Emma Watson for Burberry's Autumn 2009 Collection, right?
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yes indeed its the Autymn 2009 collection.. need new suits, but times are bad lol..
TSjind86
post Aug 25 2009, 08:11 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Aug 24 2009, 07:11 PM)
Did you peeps check out the new Tom Ford Autumn collection?
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just checked them out, indeed they are lots of vibrant colors and bold patterns, not really my taste, i prefer subtle details.. nice to look, hard to wear..

http://www.tomford.com/#/en/menswear/autum...?styleNumber=9&
TSjind86
post Aug 28 2009, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(Desvaro @ Aug 28 2009, 03:33 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


New CEO of MAS, buttoning all 3 buttons.

WHY??????????????
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because he spent RM500k on his new Merc and RM500 on his suit =D
TSjind86
post Sep 1 2009, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 1 2009, 11:45 AM)
I was at KLCC yesterday, and I saw two buttons on a suit (I think it was Brioni, but may be mistaken) that are the most incredible I've seen. They're thick and glossy horn. Very different from your typical non-descript, indifferent buttons. Those two buttons alone jack up the perceived value of the suit by a couple of thousand ringgit.

BTW, anyone knows a source of good quality shirt and jacket buttons? Mail-order would be OK too. I paid RM 7 for a set of nice mother-of-pearl lookalike buttons at Briwani's, but I get the impression you only get them if you buy fabrics.
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try here:

http://www.hst.com.sg/acatalog/Holland_and...zer_Button.html

QUOTE(Nub! @ Sep 1 2009, 01:25 PM)
Guys, anyone know where i can find suit like this in malaysia?


Thanks in advance.

PS: I dont know anything about suit. Would be happy if someone try to explain what kind of suit is that, so i can tell them in the shop when im trying to find it.
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hmmm.. can't really tell much but from what i can see, single breasted one button (tan colored button) black suit with peak lapel, double vented details.. four buttons on cuff..
TSjind86
post Sep 1 2009, 03:57 PM

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well you could try.. however the button stance looks really low judging from a very short scene when they were buttoned..

and if you really want to copy the details here then you would have to replace the buttons as the buttons here were tan colored..
TSjind86
post Sep 2 2009, 01:47 AM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Sep 1 2009, 06:06 PM)
It will be extremely hard to find a similar suit in Malaysia because I am sure the suit shown in the MV is of a Korean brand. Korean brands tend to introduce interesting features in their garments to break away from the norm and often these features can be very different from what you see in western or mainstream brands.

Below are pictures of a similar suit jacket from a Korean brand with low b-stance and tan buttons:
user posted image
user posted image
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yeah this looks like the one in the MV, thats really low button stance o.O"

QUOTE(netmatrix @ Sep 2 2009, 12:07 AM)
Almost all FOS does not stock suits or suit jackets. Stay away from Reject shop. Their current range are those made bulk for some service companies one. And the fabric is horrific low maintenance polyester. Price less than RM150.

Next stop for cheap suits Kamdar. Price range RM199 for a suit. Fabric is better than anything from most el cheapo places at the moment.

Nothing much from hypermarkets. Carrefour is selling their in house brand Harmonie for RM139 for the suit jacket alone. Pants RM49. Fabric is still not better than Kamdar.

Mydin is selling their coats only for RM99-139. Fabric is something like Kamdar.

I know a lot of students that buy those cheapo suit jackets get them from hypermarkets for their graduation.
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carrefour has cheapo suits too.. =D
TSjind86
post Sep 4 2009, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 4 2009, 09:30 AM)
So. People, I think I have found my tailor. I had the most intelligent conversation about clothes with him last night.

He showed me a production suit and said that the front won't bubble. He said with other suits, the front is guaranteed to bubble after the first dry clean.

He has possibly the largest inventory of fabrics in Malaysia.

So I gave him the acid test. I asked if he also made non-fused suits.

"That's my favourite. If you've worn a non-fused suit you'll never want to wear a fused one. We recommend it for people who travel often, because it doesn't crease. You call ball up the suit into a size of a football, throw it in a corner, and the next day you can wear it. It doesn't crease. We also recommend it for big people, because it makes the suit lighter. But it's really for people who appreciate it."

He charges RM 800 in labour charges to make a suit -- 650 for the jacket, 150 for the pants. A non-fused jacket would cost 1300 in labour alone (I believe there is room for bargaining).

He has very beautiful buttons. This is one of the characteristics of his company. A navy display suit has dark engraved mother-of-pearl buttons. His shirts come with the most exquisite white MOP buttons.

Also, he has lots of silk cloth. The better ones cost RM200/m. Great for the linings.

He's this balding Malay guy at Binwani's The Curve.
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yes i have met this tailor, and yes i remember him telling me it was RM800 in labour for a suit, however there was a slightly bad side, for that price you're only entitled to one fitting, additional fittings will be charged RM50 each.. on top of that, surgeon's cuffs will also be charged RM100.. which means every little additional detail you may have, be prepared to fork out additional cost..

QUOTE(Pennywise @ Sep 4 2009, 11:23 AM)
Hi guys,

Just want to ask where to go for tailor-made suit? Any recommended tailor within Klang Valley?

What is the price range I am looking at if I want a full set - suit + pants + white shirt made by a tailor for fitting.

Please share any information you may have.
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you can try binwani's at the curve as kotmj just mentioned.. or there's Bespoked, Granoff, and Lord's Tailor - these are all rather big names in KL, so be prepared to pay about RM1500 and up.. i've yet to see any great suits from "unknown" tailors (or at least no one is willing to share) so i cant recommend them..

QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 4 2009, 11:36 AM)
You should definitely go to Chicago tailor in SS2 for your white shirt. RM 120 per piece. One of our members here had a recent experience with them.
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you mean he had a bad experience with them..
TSjind86
post Sep 5 2009, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(Pennywise @ Sep 5 2009, 01:40 PM)
The suit is for wedding use, I am looking for a tailor to custom make one because I'm tall (about 6'3") and the suit offered in the bridal shop are either too big or small for me.

I tried on a 3-button suit I made a couple of years ago in Sparkman's Shop Hilton PJ. It still look good but it's a little bit tight right now since I gained some weight over the years. Do you think another tailor (Binwani's or others you recommended) can make the alteration for me?

If it can be altered, then what other suit is recommended for wedding purposes since I already have a 3-button one? Lastly, how does one wears a caravat with a suit? I mean a black suit and a caravat wouldnt go well hand-in-hand, would it? I cannot imagine.

Can you tell me where are these other shops you named? I can find Binwani's at The Curve on my own. Thank you.
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the best option for you on your 3-button suit from Spark Manshop is to bring it back to them to have a look at it on whether alterations are possible, by right i dont think they would charge you since you got it made there..

otherwise, if you'd like a new suit, then you should consider a 2-button suit, its pretty much the standard today..

user posted image

Lord's is in Bangsar Shopping Comples,
Bespoked is in One Utama,
Granoff is in Gardens Mid Valley..
TSjind86
post Sep 6 2009, 02:19 AM

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QUOTE(Dope-88 @ Sep 6 2009, 02:03 AM)
Hey guys, i heard see so many of yall recommending bespoke, granoff or lord's. just wanna know if i could get a custom made suit there for around 1k? is that possible? or those places are more upscale to 3-4k+? planning to get one by end of the year. thx
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hmmm if you stretch your budget to about RM1500 then it would be possible.. otherwise you could try out other more affordable places and get them around RM800 =)

--

btw what kind of material would this be? i've seen some suits similar to this which look like wool but their a little shiny..

user posted image
TSjind86
post Sep 7 2009, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(Pennywise @ Sep 7 2009, 12:55 AM)
I went to Grandoff at Gardens today and below is my experience.

I walked in and said I'm looking tailor-made suit. I specified that I wanted a suit, a white shirt, a vest and a pants but I am not sure of the material to used, so the sales lady showed me a series of materials to choose from.

Then she asked for what occassion, was it wedding and I answered yes. Then I went around the store to look for some coat and she took one out to show me. Yes, it comes with a suit + white shirt + white vest and black pants.

I asked how much is it to do them all. She said 6k!! I was shocked! I saw at the hanger, a name of a Malay man (IJN), so I assume this coat is for some really rich person and when I told her I'm looking around 2k budget for the set, her mood changed.

Sorry, this is embarassing as this is my first time. I know Hugo Boss coat is about RM3k - 4k only, so I thought tailor make might be cheaper but the sales lady said due to the fact that Hugo Boss is ready-made and Granoff is tailor-made to perfectly fit our size, they are more expensive than Hugo Boss!

Now, is it really THAT expensive to get a full suit + white shirt + white vest + black pants? Please advise.
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ok, firstly, concentrate on getting your three-piece suit first (the jacket, pant and vest), worry about your shirt later.. Granoff's shirts start at a price range of RM700 and above so its better you separate the purchase of the shirt from your suit..

i noticed you wrote white vest, your safest bet is to stick with the same material and color as your jacket and pants.. its going to be awful with a white vest and black suit..

there is a lady there which is pretty unfriendly so that was probably her, anyhow she was definitely right about the fact that brands like Hugo Boss and Calvin Klein offer ready-to-wear suits as opposed to a tailor-made store like Granoff, tailor-made is by no way suppose to be cheaper than ready-to-wear, they spend meticulous time creating a suit just for you rather than for a general market, which is why you pay a premium price for your custom made suit..

however the price does not necessarily need to reach RM6k, they can also start around RM800 (which is much more compared to a RM300 ready-made suit which you can get from stores like Kamdar/Brand's Outlet).. prices that range are mostly from tailors which are not too known.. more popular brands including Granoff start at RM1500 and up.. did you check with them about the fabrics available and the prices? im pretty sure you didnt..

before getting your suit, i think its best you know what are the details you want in your suit first: what fabric? pure wool, mix wool, polyester, etc? what kind of cutting you want? slim cut, classic cut? it looks to me like you've not even considered such basic questions..

This post has been edited by jind86: Sep 7 2009, 01:31 AM
TSjind86
post Sep 7 2009, 10:19 PM

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QUOTE(Pennywise @ Sep 7 2009, 10:03 PM)
I was told by Dav from Binvani's that its pure wool from US. I'm not sure if the price is right, anyone can advise? 4m for 2.5k. Yes, I don't mind going for cheaper options. Super 100 seems to be well priced.

Mix wool and polywool is the same or different? Thanks again for all ur advice.
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didnt you mention your budget was RM2k for the suit? and now you're planning to buy just the material worth RM2.5k? apparently you're already looking at brands like Zegna which is going to cost a bomb.. why dont you find cheaper alternatives which run about RM800 for pure wool?
TSjind86
post Sep 8 2009, 12:58 AM

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hey lanatir, what is the starting price at Bespoked for their two piece suit?
TSjind86
post Sep 9 2009, 04:36 PM

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im thinking of looking for more affordable tailors as well.. but apparently there are no recommendations here for any..
TSjind86
post Sep 10 2009, 08:53 PM

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QUOTE(terencetoo @ Sep 10 2009, 08:21 PM)
guys,

Any recommendation for tailor made suit at PJ area?
I know 2 at 1U bespoke and sparkmanshop,,,,

How are their charges and workmanship?

Thanks!
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you could go visit The State tailor at PJ State, my friend has done his suit there before, looked rather good and price is affordable..
TSjind86
post Sep 10 2009, 11:34 PM

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QUOTE(terencetoo @ Sep 10 2009, 10:03 PM)
thanks jind86,

any reviews for sparkmanshop/bespoke @1U?

how much does 1 suit cost? so i can roughly prepare my budget. Scared i might overspend smile.gif
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never fancied spark manshop.. customer service had been bad in my experience.. bespoked should be better than spark manshop although ive not had a suit from them, they have had good reviews from lanatir..

pretty much depends on material.. bespoked suit should starts around RM1500.. and spark manshop starts at RM1000.. these prices are including their starting price material (may differ among both of them) and workmanship..
TSjind86
post Sep 12 2009, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(servo @ Sep 12 2009, 06:05 PM)
I just came back from Ah Loke Tailor.

I saw a display suit on a dummy there with hand-stitched buttonholes, pic stitch all around the perimeters of the collar, lapels, all the way down to the bottom hem. Really nice lining, none of the nasty Bespoked 1U stuff. There was a ticket pocket on the front. The jacket seemed really well-constructed, as all display suits are.

I talked to them about canvassing, and after much talking, I found out their house standard is the half-canvas (!). All their jackets are fused with a thin interlining (it doesn't feel nasty), and the chest piece is a three-layer affair with horsehair canvas. You can choose a stiffer horsehair, or a more pliant one for more drape.

So I asked, "If I want my suit made like that display suit there, but with me supplying the cloth and lining, how much?"

They said: "Oh that isn't a display suit (!). The customer will come tomorrow to pick it up." They said RM 600 (!!!!!!!!).

Here's a negative: Their lapels are not lined. I'll need to get them to line my lapels with horsehair canvas and do pad stitching during my fitting on Thursday. Yes, Thursday for fitting the basted (!) jacket (today's Saturday). I asked how many fittings are provided. They said as many as are needed to get it right (!).

Really looking forward to Thursday. They said that's when all the special request regarding fit will need to be made. Waist suppression, roominess, sleeveheads, button stance, etc.


Added on September 12, 2009, 6:10 pmPhuck, just realised I am logged in with my brother's account. I'm kotmj.
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woo thats good price.. RM600 excluding cloth and lining right? what about their buttons? will they be using horn buttons?

what kind of cut did you go for? do they specialize in doing slim cutting suits as well?

am definitely looking forward to seeing pictures of the suit =)
TSjind86
post Sep 12 2009, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Sep 12 2009, 07:01 PM)
By the way I had just bought myself 4 yards of navy wool from the MysterySite for my 3-piece. And I'm not going to reveal anything.
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sharing is caring tongue.gif

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