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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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DikkieD
post Dec 4 2009, 10:05 AM

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That is a nice deal yes. Which branch should I visit? The one at The Waterfront @ Parkcity or the one in Subang? Or does this really not matter smile.gif

Cheers!

Ilya
lanatir
post Dec 4 2009, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(DikkieD @ Dec 4 2009, 10:05 AM)
That is a nice deal yes. Which branch should I visit? The one at The Waterfront @ Parkcity or the one in Subang? Or does this really not matter smile.gif

Cheers!

Ilya
*
dunno, never tried them before... but their promo prices seem to be good. guess u'll hv to check out the branches and see their sample workmanship to gauge.

kotmj
post Dec 4 2009, 08:05 PM

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QUOTE(jind86 @ Dec 4 2009, 03:00 AM)
then i guess ive to follow you to make your next suit and get one myself so you could help me out  tongue.gif
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I'm not getting anything made anytime soon. I will be picking up a shirt I commissioned from him next Saturday though.

I might be persuaded to go to your first fitting. Of the four visits to the tailor necessary for a suit, it's the most important. Drop me a PM.
Bishop
post Dec 4 2009, 08:28 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 2 2009, 11:24 PM)
Ah Loke suit #2. 100% kid mohair, silk haboutai lining, horn buttons.

user posted image

user posted image
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arent the sleeves a little short? I always thought that it should reach the knuckle of your thumb when standing straight. If you raise your arms then it will show your whole forearm...?

This post has been edited by Bishop: Dec 4 2009, 08:29 PM
sasuke123
post Dec 4 2009, 08:34 PM

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is making your own suit better than buying a ready made suit but it is a luxury brand ?
cause i see some of the brand is not into my size but i love the design of it
Bishop
post Dec 4 2009, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(sasuke123 @ Dec 4 2009, 08:34 PM)
is making your own suit better than buying a ready made suit but it is a luxury brand ?
cause i see some of the brand is not into my size but i love the design of it
*
I have a Hugo Boss suit. Falls damn nice. just had to alter the sleeve lenght.

But it would depend on your build. I am generic size(180cm, 78kg) so easy for me to pick up suits. If you are short or very tall/ fat or very thin then might be better to tailor your suit.

If not, think it is better to buy ready made ones as you can see if they look nice or not before buying. thumbup.gif
kotmj
post Dec 4 2009, 08:57 PM

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QUOTE(Bishop @ Dec 4 2009, 08:28 PM)
arent the sleeves a little short? I always thought that it should reach the knuckle of your thumb when standing straight. If you raise your arms then it will show your whole forearm...?
*
You make me puke, you provincial dresser. This is what I wrote on another forum:

"It's amazing this tailor doesn't even get the sleeves right. It means just one thing: Joe's subscribes to the Asian school of though where shirtsleeves go all the way to the middle of the palm. SFers will be surprised by this, but some provincial Malaysian tailors really do think shirt cuffs should go all the way to the palm of the hand."
U+FFFD
post Dec 4 2009, 09:23 PM


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QUOTE(Bishop @ Dec 4 2009, 08:28 PM)
arent the sleeves a little short? I always thought that it should reach the knuckle of your thumb when standing straight. If you raise your arms then it will show your whole forearm...?
*
Sorry but you've got to be kidding me.

So this (pictured below) is your impression of the proper sleeve length?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


It might work for some coats but for suit jackets, it is improper and considered a faux pas notoriously flaunted by most people nowadays.

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Dec 4 2009, 09:56 PM
calvinloke
post Dec 4 2009, 09:43 PM

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QUOTE(Bishop @ Dec 4 2009, 08:28 PM)
arent the sleeves a little short? I always thought that it should reach the knuckle of your thumb when standing straight. If you raise your arms then it will show your whole forearm...?
*
No? Maybe your jacket has armholes the size of Texas?
U+FFFD
post Dec 4 2009, 09:59 PM


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*sarcasm*Why do I get the feeling that sf'ers are efficiently quick at pointing out mistakes? tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Dec 4 2009, 10:00 PM
kotmj
post Dec 4 2009, 11:11 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Dec 4 2009, 09:23 PM)
Sorry but you've got to be kidding me.

So this (pictured below) is your impression of the proper sleeve length?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


It might work for some coats but for suit jackets, it is improper and considered a faux pas notoriously flaunted by most people nowadays.
*
That pic is classic. Awful suit, awful model. From China, with love (but without taste).
calvinloke
post Dec 4 2009, 11:19 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Dec 4 2009, 09:59 PM)
*sarcasm*Why do I get the feeling that sf'ers are efficiently quick at pointing out mistakes? tongue.gif
*
Ahh..There's a beacon light on top of our heads which flashes incessantly whenever blatant sartorial mistakes are detected.
kotmj
post Dec 4 2009, 11:22 PM

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Hey, calvinloke, tell me what should change in suit #3 from suit #2. I want the sleeves 1/8th of an inch shorter. And the pockets 1/2 inch higher (like in suit #1). What else?
calvinloke
post Dec 4 2009, 11:43 PM

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Carry on with the hacking pockets? I think they look good.
I don't really favor the gorge on the second suit.
Another issue that caught my attention is the button stance and the pocket placement. As far as I'm concerned with all my jackets, the last button is always parallel with the welts of the pockets. However this may not be always true. I'm sure you notice the roll of the lapel seems to be much higher above the first button. Perhaps by shifting the button stance a little higher to the lapel roll, and then making the pockets parallel with the last button, the results would be much better?

This post has been edited by calvinloke: Dec 4 2009, 11:49 PM
kotmj
post Dec 5 2009, 12:00 AM

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Yes, I thought the last button would be in line with the welts too -- it was the reason I asked the pockets be shifted down 1/2 inch to accommodate the lower buttoning stance. I like the buttoning stance here, it's perfect. The first button on suit #1 always feels a little high, it's a little non-intuitive when I want to button it. In fact, I buttoned the wrong button once and didn't notice it. The only way to make the last button line up with the welts is to reduce the distance between the two buttons. Ah Loke always gives 4 inches between them. Maybe he can do 3 inches next time. I look forward to the big argument.

The shape of the notch is different from #1 -- it's droopier and smaller, more towards Ah Loke's house style. I must make him fight gravity the next time. The lapel must surge towards the sky.

There are so many variables in a suit, so many things to watch out for.


Added on December 5, 2009, 12:11 amOn second thought, 3 inches between buttons is a bad idea. 4 should be the minimum. I guess there is no chance for them to line up after all. Lowering the pockets is out of the question, they are already too low.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 5 2009, 12:11 AM
calvinloke
post Dec 5 2009, 12:12 AM

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3 inches? I have yet to see such a distance between the two buttons. All my jackets are made with 4 inches apart. I would advice you against that.

Still, I would suggest moving the button stance higher and doing a stronger roll of the lapel to the first button.

Yes, I hate the notch.
kotmj
post Dec 5 2009, 12:19 AM

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Ah Loke is very old world. His notch style is decades old:

user posted image

He also does closed quarters by default, another ancient custom.

But somehow, it's all very endearing. It's a bit of old Malaysian tailoring, straight from the days of Muhammad Ali vs Buttner. How I wish he would have kept the full canvassing instead.
calvinloke
post Dec 5 2009, 12:25 AM

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How about going for a peak? I'm starting to enjoy peak lapels on SBs.

On a different note, I've been hunting like ages for Agnelli's POW necktie in that photo. I just couldn't get a nice deal on that. Kent Wang's version costs 68USD.
kotmj
post Dec 5 2009, 12:36 AM

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I thought I saw a plaid tie at M&S KLCC. Not POW, but a related plaid.

Peak SB? Radical. I think not. I'd go for a DB before that. I even know exactly how the peak is supposed to look like. I have the pic stored.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
calvinloke
post Dec 5 2009, 12:45 AM

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That silver glen plaid tie would make a perfect wedding tie, IMO. I would love to get married in that necktie.

Niidawg's peak certainly reminds of vintage tailoring. Particularly the frock coat.

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