No problems - do post back if you have any other queries.

The FZ-28 is closest to best PQ in your choices, the others generally lose out.

It's about Rm1400 I think. Not really sure - you should do your own research to find out. Sorry, a bit pressed on time.

Um, would you mind using the template on the first page? It's far easier to know what you want from your digi cam.

Anyway, Sony digital point-and-shoots suck. Big time. Style with no performance.

If you have a big pocket to spend, then get the Panasonic Lumix LX3. If you don't have 1.6-1.7k to spend, would you mind to use the template provided? It'll give us an idea of what to recommend.

Sony caters for style only - that is why we never recommend it to anyone looking to make the most bang for the buck. I have to admit though, their design is good. That is the only thing I like about Sony point and shoot cameras.

With your budget you can get an entry level DSLR or a superb prosumer.

If you're willing to start off into the DSLR world, get a Canon EOS 1000D or a Nikon D60.

If you want an all-rounder prosumer, get the Panasonic Lumix LX3. RM1.7k (around there).

If you want a superzoom camera, get the Panasonic Lumix FZ28.

If you ask me, I'll go for the LX3 as it is the best prosumer camera you can get and you can learn lots from its superb image quality. Once you get the hang of it then get a DSLR and move on - then the LX3 can become your secondary camera.

Search in Lowyat for deals, but in my opinion YL Camera in Pudu gives a great price.
I'd recommend getting the Ixus 8xx - I have no product knowledge of it though.

External flash is RM450 (at least) for the Di622, and since you aren't into DSLRs yet, I'd suggest you learn how to make full use of a PnS/prosumer.

Forget Sony, hopeless for good quality shots.

Get the Panasonic Lumix LX3. Best for your budget.

It is considered small for such a powerful camera.

It works just like a normal PnS but with much more capabilities. Much much more.

You won't regret getting it.

Should be around RM1.6-1.7k. I'm not too sure so you will need to do some research around.

Good luck scoring your deal.

The LX3 will be your best choice then. Nothing can beat it in the prosumer category.

Will be more expensive. Due to the current inflation of the Japanese yen.

Buy here, you have local warranty and you won't need to worry about a thing.

Try searching Pudu Plaza (DigitalsMania, YL), PhotoSelangor (Pertama Complex), Lowyat, Digital Mall, etc, these places should have deals for you.

Well, since you're starting off, and you've already said it - you never really owned a camera before, so I'd really really recommend you to go for the LX3 first. What's more is that later on, when you want to step up to the DSLR world, the LX3 is your second best buddy - it's VERY useful when you are travelling light, and don't want to be lugging your DSLR gear all around.

The LX3 can choose from Auto mode/Aperture priority/Shutter priority/Manual mode, so it's just like a DSLR crammed into a tiny body.

Obviously a DSLR's IQ will be better than a prosumer, but if in the right hands, a PnS can produce as stunning an image as a DSLR can.

The a200 is cheap, but what if you want to upgrade lenses later? The Sony/Konica Minolta lens range is big - but 80% of the lenses aren't available in Malaysia/very very hard to find in Malaysia. Other than the Sony/KM lenses, you can opt for Tamron, Sigma or Tokina - but these lenses still can't beat Canon's skill in making lenses. Compared to the Canon's lens lineup, Sony cannot compare.

Down to the point - go for the LX3, you seriously won't regret it. Later on when you've learnt how to use a camera in a right way, how to fully utilize Manual mode, etcetc, and when you feel that you are ready to go into the DSLR world, then get yourself one.

I hope I've helped - and I hope too that I haven't been long-winded.

No problems bro, I hope you learn fast and you'll be able to join the white side

... And what does this have to do? Canon's CS is good too.

Subjective views are best kept to yourself, and note:

1) "Fanboyism" is prohibited. No brand wars here.

I don't want to burst your bubble - but what about those people who have to work with DSLRs when they wanna do something else?

DSLRs are not just there for people who have passion... DSLRs are there because there is a need for them as they can produce far better images than a prosumer/PnS can.

I started off with little passion for photography when I got my 1000D but now I'm in love with it.

Let's quote an example - why do driver training lessons use the simplest, cheapest cars? Why not use a Ferrari or a Mercedes?

It's because they want you to start off first, then slowly learn how to use this and that in a minimal-spec car first, then only move onto higher-specced cars so you can absorb knowledge about the car.

Same here - start off with a prosumer first, then only move onto the DSLR, as the basics are in a prosumer - the complicated stuff is in a DSLR. Learning both at the same time will slow down your absorption of knowledge dramatically.

No problems.

Panasonic Lumix range or the Fujifilm F100fd - heard alot of people recommending it.

Sorry, there's not many people around to help recommend digital cams - but if you're patient enough you'll get your answer.

1. Light trails need extremely slow shutter speeds. Settable on the LX3.

2. Silhouette is done by aiming the camera directly into a sunset/sunrise, thus rendering the subject to be too dark for the fine details to be captured. Any camera can do this, provided you know how to do it. Considerably easier with a prosumer with Manual mode and/or a DSLR.

3. Have to get an underwater casing for your camera, and sometimes the water's blue is too saturated till your camera can't capture the colour correctly - you need to read up on this, I have limited knowledge about this.

4. I think panning would be considerably harder with a prosumer, but can be performed.

Decide on an aspect of photography you want to focus on first, then read about it. If you read about all, you'll get your mind confused and stuffed up with a lot of sometimes unnecessary information.

Sony a200/a300/a350, Canon EOS 1000D, Nikon D60.

Did this comparison before and I went for the 1000D, no regrets.

Sony's pros:
Cheap
In-body IS

Canon's pros:
Over 60+ EF/EF-S lenses, later when you want to upgrade, no problem
Best lenses (L lineup is unbeatable)

Nikon's pros:
No idea yet, never used a Nikon model before.

You should scout around to find your best choice, everyone has their own needs so I can't shoot a single model at you.

Good luck.

If you haven't had a hands-on with a full manual camera then get the LX3. If you're willing to chuck a big wad of money into DSLRs without learning the basics first, go for a 1000D. 450D is kinda in-the-middle of 50D/1000D, so you're bound to lose some money if you're gonna go from 1000-450-50.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canong10/

Detailed one on the G10.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonicdmclx3/

Detailed one on the LX-3.

My advice:

Compare the specifications first, see which one isn't good or is good, etc etc.

Later on, go to both of these, select the 1st 'Compared to...' of each camera's review from the drop-down menu.

Compare both the picture's quality.

You'll be amazed at what the LX-3 can do over the G10.

Also, if you are still un-convinced, go to the LX-3 thread in this forum.

It's a superzoom, IINM. If you don't need the zoom, might as well go for the DMC-LX3 - it has superior image quality compared to other prosumers around this price range.

Though - if you do need this extra zoom, the FZ28 will do you good.

On a LX3, a 24mm isn't really 24mm - because the sensor isn't APS-C sized or 35mm sized. I can't really remember how much is the crop factor but it should be around 2x.

As example the LX3's sensor is 2x, you'll get a 48mm range. When you buy the 1000D you'll get an 18-55 * 1.6 which is equivalent to 28-88mm on a 35mm DSLR.

In my opinion the 18-55 mounted on the 1000D is quite adequate for landscape photography, but if you have the moolah, get the L.

Stated on the lens is different from the actual range.

EG: at 10mm, on a 2x sensor it'll be 20mm zoom range equivalent, on a 1.6x sensor it'll be 16mm, and on a ff 35mm sensor it'll be 10mm.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor

Read here. Digital cameras measure the lens' zoom range relative to 35mm format.

Oh. Apologies. I didn't know never used a compact before so never bothered to find out. Thanks for this piece of advice.