@0168257061 : im using kit lens worr... he's using 50mm prime.. surely his ought to be much sharper

Wanna ask, what do you guys think about the caption and picture?
C&C please.

that "prime" is a bull , the worst 50mm prime would be.
even KM 50mm f/1.7 , nikkor f/1.8 better than it alot.

if you notice the bokeh , the C produced a "pentagon" shaped bokeh . lol

think he using center af n recompose the shot....
when he wide open his aperture n recompose will always make it oof,
better choose the af point as close as it can n move ur camera to recompose as little as u can 2 make ur shot clear n sharp ....

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Added on December 2, 2008, 8:53 pmLong time no post at here ......
time 2 spam......

Canon 1000D kit lens
1/15 sec / EV+0.33 / F5.6 ? ISO 800
C n C is welcome


Canon 1000D kit lens
1/13sec / EV+0.33 / F4.5 / ISO 800


This post has been edited by lek0010: Dec 2 2008, 08:58 PM

well, i've personally used a friend's C 50mm, and it's not too bad actually. But of course, its the cheapest compared to the other 2 u mentioned. in fact, KM's (2nd hand) market price now is more than twice C's new unit (which is also the reason i've not gotten it myself). And dont even mention about SAL's own f/1.4. That piece makes me drool everytime i see it.




absolutely agree with you on that.

This post has been edited by lwliam: Dec 2 2008, 08:59 PM

thk Iwilliam....
i also use borrow my frend's 50mm 1.8 for fun,but seldom use,feeling not convenient when i wanna shoot in wide angle,still satisfly with my kit ....hihihi
actually IS in tele lens really important ?

Its helpful especially for sports , you do panning when athletes running , jumping bla bla.

car panning ? F1 panning ?

I'd be against that. Since panning involves motion, the IS would be of little effect if you ask me. I'd say that panning would be more to human timing.


It is if you're planning on using your telephoto for indoor events and stuff that involves less than optimal lighting.
If you're planning on taking your telephoto lens for daytime outdoor shots, IS would of course still be helpful, but less important

Hmm...i will try again trial and error, cause i still noob, cam less than a month, anyways i'll be going to sg tomorrow, will share more 'improved' pics with you guys, hopefully.
I initially lowered to f1.8 because i want the whole background to be as blur as possible 'cept for the food, that's what i read from a few food photography blogs.
Noted higher f value. Thanks again guys. William your cendol looks damn tasty lah...Nyum

some glass has only one IS mode. usually white glass has 2 modes.
get yourself white glass , set it mode 2 on IS , and use it to pan.


yes , IS also useful when comes into low light situation.

gfx snap



EXIF in picture edi

in a way, IS in tele is MORE important than IS in wide angles. that is because when you zoom in tighter, smaller movements on the camera will be amplified in the image as motion blur. at wider angles, minor shakes are still tolerable till a certain extent.

true that 50mm is less convenient than your kit lens. but your kit lens will introduce more CA and have a much lower edge to edge sharpness to an image. if you are comfortable with moving around for framing, i'd go for the 50mm or the 28mm (which i am using now - also a reason why i didnt get the 50mm is because my images are usually more on the wide range - although, i envy those who have a 50mm most of the time).


it depends on how expensive ur IS lens is.. on higher end models, there are 2 different type of IS. one is the regular up down left right shift IS, the other one is IS meant for panning, which means it doesnt bother the lateral motion of the lens, but it stabilizes the vertical motion, giving it a smoother panning result


its good you take advice and guides from elsewhere, everyone have to start somewhere. but sometimes it depends on your preference as well, after taking a shot, see if what u took (with correspond to the settings) feels pleasing to you. if not, tweak the settings again and try again. if yes, then good for you. it doesnt mean what settings other ppl use would give the same 'awesome-ness' effect to your pic. experiment a bit, when u get the looks that you like, rmb the settings that you use, the next time, u can roughly put in the same setting values and begin from there again, instead of going through all the setting/tweaking all over again.

one more thing, control the f-number accordingly to your subject. some things are more suited to narrow DOF, some would need a deeper one. one setting does not fit every subject.

[quote=avenger,Dec 2 2008, 10:41 PM]gfx snap



EXIF in picture edi

[/quote]

walau ~~~~ATI 9200SE .....64mb or 128mb?
at least 5 years ago,i hv 1 also,but not in my cpu now.......

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Added on December 2, 2008, 11:10 pmCanon 1000D 50mm 1.8
1/250sec/ +3.3EV / F2 / ISO200

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Added on December 2, 2008, 11:15 pm[quote=lwliam,Dec 2 2008, 10:49 PM]
in a way, IS in tele is MORE important than IS in wide angles. that is because when you zoom in tighter, smaller movements on the camera will be amplified in the image as motion blur. at wider angles, minor shakes are still tolerable till a certain extent.

true that 50mm is less convenient than your kit lens. but your kit lens will introduce more CA and have a much lower edge to edge sharpness to an image. if you are comfortable with moving around for framing, i'd go for the 50mm or the 28mm (which i am using now - also a reason why i didnt get the 50mm is because my images are usually more on the wide range - although, i envy those who have a 50mm most of the time).
It is if you're planning on using your telephoto for indoor events and stuff that involves less than optimal lighting.
If you're planning on taking your telephoto lens for daytime outdoor shots, IS would of course still be helpful, but less important

[/quote]

it depends on how expensive ur IS lens is.. on higher end models, there are 2 different type of IS. one is the regular up down left right shift IS, the other one is IS meant for panning, which means it doesnt bother the lateral motion of the lens, but it stabilizes the vertical motion, giving it a smoother panning result
its good you take advice and guides from elsewhere, everyone have to start somewhere. but sometimes it depends on your preference as well, after taking a shot, see if what u took (with correspond to the settings) feels pleasing to you. if not, tweak the settings again and try again. if yes, then good for you. it doesnt mean what settings other ppl use would give the same 'awesome-ness' effect to your pic. experiment a bit, when u get the looks that you like, rmb the settings that you use, the next time, u can roughly put in the same setting values and begin from there again, instead of going through all the setting/tweaking all over again.

one more thing, control the f-number accordingly to your subject. some things are more suited to narrow DOF, some would need a deeper one. one setting does not fit every subject.

[/quote]

thk ur explain ~~~~always appreciate u......share wat u hv n wat u know ~


This post has been edited by lek0010: Dec 2 2008, 11:15 PM

lek0010 : its 128MB

Today pics....smiley dragonfly.....



One Big family....



C&C most welcome.

Exactly why I left out the 2nd IS mode. Currently only high end Nikon and Canon lenses offer that second IS mode. To me it's more of a novelty than of practicality. Think about it this way, how often will one pan exactly horizontally? Since the lenses only counteract tiny shakes in either the X or Y axis, I personally think that mode isn't going to be very useful when one pans. More than often the panning shot will follow a diagonal line >__<

This post has been edited by joyyy: Dec 3 2008, 12:02 AM

hahah~~~gd .....
1 of my frend still using this card ,but is 64mb ..........

C&C needed.
especially colors tweaking.




EOS 1000D
70mm
1/250
f/8
ISO200

this shot could be nice with a thin DOF , hmm 70-200 f/2.8 ?

due to upload problem , the pic was abit lesser contrast to the original tweaked from cs3.

This post has been edited by 168257061: Dec 3 2008, 12:44 AM

hey, this is my shot. any c&c welcomed!

No EXIF ,better check the 1st page n see the rules in this topic...