Bonchi / AC Freezer7Pro / Tuniq TX2 / C2D e4300 1.8@3.2(77%) / 1.40V / what Fan?? / 38 / 60 / no-aircond / Orthos

dunno how come my temps in real temp is 55-56 only..which is more reliable? coretemp or realtemp



*edit* uploaded the image improperly (try and error) ...finally found out that the TJmax for e4300 is 85C...so that means the reading from coretemp is wrong


just wanna know is there any e4300 overclockers here as well?? want to know whether my voltage settings is correct...i got a feeling that 1.4v is a little too high

This post has been edited by Bonchi: Jan 6 2009, 03:56 PM

i just put TJmax to 95...it is still lower than core temp...i think i will stick to coretemp(its more scary to look at )

btw celciuz...hows the huntkey PSU? wanted to buy that at first...but im going for mushkin soon(need it for crossfire)

haha thnx for the info... so its not a good buy then...good psu are expensive for a reason XD...

i dunno what is TJmax at the first place...well i'll just run orthos *lowered vCore*and then go library to study (MMU melaka student here XD)

haha...well...my PC got BSOD...luckily its gigabyte with dual bios...so it didnt loop reboot (not like my older MSI board) and i was away when that happens

guess that 1.4v is the sweet spot...but heck..i think one of my ram just died

nah...it is @4ghz...see properly..his CPU load is @6% multiplier is 6X(in C1E halt/idle)

guess he took the screenie after the stress test

if you want something cheap....you can try xigmatek S1283 (should be RM145 and below)

dont really like the PWM fan mount on the CCF...its slides around

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Added on January 7, 2009, 9:14 amwhy not try fsb:ram 1:1 (set ram multiplier to X2) can go higher ...but temps beware

This post has been edited by Bonchi: Jan 7 2009, 09:14 AM

most of the time...when i didnt do 1:1..sometimes the RAM mhz quite high....coz its following the FSB...lets say if 1:1, FSB is 380, ram also 380...so multiplier X2 makes your ram 760mhz...so that means you got more head room to increase your FSB higher without reaching the RAM mhz limit ^^

ive tried OC Q6600 be4...not sure whats the TjMax..so i set to mobo to beep when core temp is more than 60C in bios.....when running orthos is stable at 3.5...temps showing around 68C...and the mobo is obviously beeping like mad

honestly..i will try to avoid going beyond 65...if possible...below 60...and 40-50++ at normal utilization

i dont want my processor life to get reduced lol...i think you know about it....heh...thats why i didnt push this baby (e4300) more...though it reach ed 3.6 before (70C beb)

e4300 to 3.6 ler....70C is consider damn hot already...15 more C then system crash...lol 60++ ok la..best try not to exceed 65...then you wont harm the processor's life already

hmm you have shared ram (diff brand sommore)..well...to be honest..rarely ppl do dual-dual channel rams...

regarding OC performance...i cant say much already...not really sure about your case..

are both ram the same latencies? and voltage?....there might be compatibility issues...(this is why its better to buy a 2x2GB ram set, which are proven compatible by manufacturer)

anyways...try your memtest first and see how..if still fails..try use 2 sticks of ram instead and see still got memory dumping..

*edit* i think orthos also got function to stress ram...

This post has been edited by Bonchi: Jan 8 2009, 08:08 AM

for cooling your ram...why not just put a 80mm fan directly above the rams....works for me ^^

i think you meant lighter fluid/zippo oil ler...

anyways..speaking of replacing brackets for CCF...i dunno will it work for CCF but i did some modding on my AC freezer7pro recently..
i bought the xigmatek spring & screw thingie with the bracket (RM35)...pull out the washers from the screw to separate it from the bracket it came with...
and then...cut the plastic snap-on pins on my freezer and replace them the xigmatek spring and screw thingie with the bracket...
works fine after that ... got about 2-4 degrees drop in temps...and felt a little secure that my mobo wouldn't break anytime with the bracket..

this is the product i used ::Xigmatek Crossbow??

i wouldnt use thinner lol....somehow when it dries...it feels kinda oily ...so i would say alcohol is the best cheapest choice....i use the CD cleaner ones...RM3.80 for 63ml

and yea..CCF mounting resembles the AM2 style mounting...guess theres no other way to mod it unless making your own DIY mount if you want to do springs and screws style mounting

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Added on February 1, 2009, 7:02 amuuuh...somethings wrong..i kept failing on orthos @3.33ghz on my e4300 (370*9) but my systems is able to run 24/7 which includes heavy torrenting and hardcore gaming....done intel burn for 10minutes without prob as well.....just orthos and prime:x

any opinions on this? been loosing hair thinking to solve this
im suspecting its the RAM latency..but not sure how to set




This post has been edited by Bonchi: Feb 1 2009, 07:02 AM

AMD mini OC gathering coming soon..!!!!<here>

wah...so cool..got liquid N2 and Dry Ice sommore...but then..using your own hardware...not scared that condensation risks that might spoil the board?...or you guys are already prepared for coating your mobos in some water resistant coating?

anyways...so wish to join ...but im not an amd user XD

Fuuuh that is SWEET!
judging from its size as comparing to the contact plate...it wouldnt be as huge as the thermalright as well....hopefully it can fit into my icute casing...which is having probs with fitting bigger better HSFs

hmm have any of you guys seen coolermaster's v10 and v12....freaking huge...wondering if its practical or not...lols

btw..the v12 kinda looked like the xigmatek thor...but with insanely more heatpipes

yea i agree with that....in fact im using that setting atm...and from my experience...thats the best i could ever get with my rig..even the rams are slightly cooled as there is the presence of air flowing through it.

as you can see...if facing downwards..it not only sucks the the heat from the GPU but also the NB as well...especially gigabyte mobos who had rather hot NBs...i cant touch mine with my bare hands ...planning to mod by placing 2 40mm fans on it but by sucking the air out with a duct rather than blowing into it as it will create hot air around that area...

it should be possible...if you can find the one which also includes the bracket (bundled Ultra 120)...coz i see from the site..they only had the screws and the back plate but without the mounting bracket
Like this one...which i cant find it at the official site



This post has been edited by Bonchi: Feb 9 2009, 06:03 AM

a picture means a thousand words though it is simple...it really explained alot regarding the airflow....

well zenetics..just an advice from my personal experience...it is also important to put an exhaust fan beside the GC...especially the area where the hot air spills out from the GC's HSF ....buy doing so...you actually reduce alot of heat around the GC area (as we all know..that is one of the hottest component in most new PCs)

maybe with this addtion..you can get better results with the first setting as per in cdlim's post (by exhausting the air through the top) coz the hot air had been drained out
however i think the second option is still the best as you can see...your HSF is sucking in fresh cool air from the front intake fan and properly disposes them through the rear

the best method of airflow is to get as many hot air out and at the same time a decent amount of cool air in....having all fans blowing into the casing makes it worse ( i dunno why..but i see most of my friends do it like this)

ah..well..i'd recommend you to turn those two fans around...as you can see..the gtx260's HSF is sufficient to cool the card already...it just need a way to get rid of the hot air which blows out from it...usually to the back and the side like the HD4850..thats why with a fan sucking outwards..it helps to keep the hot air from the card....the same applies to the CPU as well

coz you see..blowing in air..might trap the hot air in your casing, making the temperature inside hotter.