The pad is a goner on an ROB/DA but it *might* still safely run on a rotary. Save it for when you need to do stuffs by hand.

Is that an LC white pad? What situation caused that? Was the pad damp when you were using it?

Some details would be appreciated so that the same can be avoided.

Cheers.

You're using it on what machine? Flex DA, Bosch ROB, a rotary or others? What speed? And again, and this is quite important, was the pad damp when you were using it? I asked this because on two occasions my pads did 'broke down' *almost* like yours when I was using it damp on a DA (but they're not LC though).

Wet/damp with water....as in you've just washed it and spin dry or something...but not totally dry...

Nope. It's just for fun....seriously.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Feb 20 2013, 10:04 AM

You won't be able to get the foam cannon/lance (one that's use with a pressure washer) anywhere around here. But I know a couple of places (local) that sells the foam gun (one used with normal garden hose). Any brand would do cuz there's only one or two manufacturers that made them and performance are *almost* the same.

Which ACE? I've never seen one selling there before.

Second that, unless you live where the pressure from your garden tap could burst those normal cheapo plastic hose.....

PM? ...........

Oh...ok. Got it. Somehow the pop-up for my pm didn't come up so didn't notice it.

Man....you're going to keep bugging me until I start the new V2 thread aren't you....hahahaha.....

I can think of another type of detailer:

Commercial detailers - one whose main aim is to make money, bar none.

Exactly. But, unfortunately, these 'pirates' are the ones that are really making money and getting rich. No need license, no need permit, no need to pay advert, cheap rental, minimising overhead and maximising profit.....

It is if they are just 'hacks' detailers (I wonder whether they even know that word).....who don't care how the cars going out of from their places looks and only care about the money going into their pockets. But then, that's about doing business and not detailing....

That 'old uncle' is quite right.

Let see now...what are some of the properties and functions of a good LSP:

1. Add shine/gloss
2. Make the surface smooth and silky
3. Nice water beading
4. Sheets water when pour onto
5. Dirt/contaminant won't stick easily
6. Provide a temporary barrier against chemical etchings
7. etc......

Rather than trying to find out whether the LSP is still in place or not, consider monitoring whether the LSP is still doing it's job as per your expectations since, even if the LSP is still there, it could already be weak and not doing its job too well anymore. And there's no easy way to do that except for observing and monitoring. For me, the best time for this would be during my routine wash. How easy my wash mitt glide over the surface, how easy dirt being clean, how strong the beading, whether the surface sheets cleanly or any water being 'held' or 'cling' to the surface (by embeded dirt), how smooth my drying towel feels when drying, any water spots that wash/QD cannot remove, etc.......

Or you can forget about the tedious things above and top up with a spray topper every one or two weeks after a wash until you sense that the surface is dirty and in need of a round of 'freshing up'....hehehehe....

Anyway, beading going flat (or diminishing) after a wash doesn't necessarily mean the LSP had been stripped. It could mean the beading from the glossing agent (or wax) left by the shampoo you're using is inferior to the LSP's. Some shampoo may also contain some sort of 'easy rinsing' formula that can make the surface sheet water easier. Don't be surprised if the beading came back during/after a rain when whatever was left by the shampoo had been washed off. I don't think Meg's NXT Wash has the strength to remove any LSP. If it really does, I'd blame the wax instead of the shampoo....

Oh...and don't expect some 'wash & wax' or 'revitalising' shampoo would be able to 'replace' your existing LSP unless it's a 'wet-on-wet' applied topper like Permanon or something. Don't be lazy man...spray wax are everywhere nowadays....hahahaha.....

Suggestion for shampoo: DG 901 Car Wash Concentrate (you can get the smaller bottle to try first, I think the size is around 500ml).

But, if you plan to use a spray topper after one or two washes (or three even), any shampoo from those reliable brands would do just fine...Sonax, Mothers, Soft99, Optimum, 3M, etc....(I'd stay away from CarPlan or Blackfire (?) or those 'al-cheapo' ones though....hehehe....).

I normally spray on the mf instead of the paint, unless I'm doing it on still not-so-dry (I was going to say wet) paint. And I also don't see any need for the buffing part when I was using UQD, except for when the mf side became damp.

Haven't use 431 before, but from the way the other guys are describing, sounds like it's a degreaser to me. This should work better (or faster) on cleaning engine bay, tires and wheel arches (daun pisang...). 403 is an apc for general cleaning purposes.

Spray topper...something more like OCWax or DG Aquawax. If you want a 'strong' topper, I'd suggest Megs UQD - the stuff has really strong cleaner but unfortunately, it don't last long. But if you want a strong cleaner, very very nice beader and longer lasting (and not to mention more £££) - DDJ Supernatural Red Mist

['shine'] UQW -> DG AW -> OCWax [durability]. This is especially true on my dark coloured (burgundy) waja.

But if you're looking for both, I'm afraid I'd have to say it's the DDJ RM.....that or Zaino Z8.....

Maybe you shoud try pulling your car out into the sun after applying UQW...I find that I can stretch the durability a little bit more this way....

hrrrmmm....haven't tried that one before. No musky smell ah? I just throw mine into my cabinet if it's still decently clean....

Is it dead yet? If not then I guess it's still alright .

I find that the problem with using a washing machine to wash my mfs is that they tend to pick up remnants of lint from previous washes. Damn irritating to see them transfered onto the paint...especially if using them damp/wet....

How does RM35 for 500ml of UQD professional equivalent sounds to you....need to get rid some of mine before it goes spoilt....HAHAHAHAH.....

One method is to do a group buy and get a gallon of their professional equivalent and split them....that's how I get most of my stuffs at better value....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Feb 25 2013, 06:05 PM

Yup...M135 - UQD equivalent in Megs Mirror Glaze (professional) line...did a group buy a few years back when the rave was UQD. I was in thinking of the same thing you are right now, it's good and easy to use after my routine washes but local price is just too expensive. So I source for a gallon of M135, share it with a few fellow enthusiasts and ended up getting it for around half the price of the retail OTC one...minus the bottle, of course. Let me just check whether it's still sound and how much I have left.

The trend now (including Megs) are moving towards non-diminishing abrasives. Although they are designed and made for machine usage, seemed like they also worked quite decently by hand or ROB. I've tried M86, D151 and subsequently M101, M105 and M205 both by machine and by hand and they worked just fine in my book. Remember my post polishing off that sanded panel? I was using an ROB (which is no more aggresive than by hand) with M101 and the Sonax polishes, which also utilise non-diminishing abrasives. If you're in doubt, reminds me to pass you some sample for you to have some fun.

Hey....I tot the saying is only a weak kid would use the Bigfoot, real men use a rotary. And I'm not temping anybody, it's your money and your choice and I don't get a single sen from anybody....hahaha.....

They close shop already la and have to do all the selling from a makeshift roadside stall....he say can't make much profit with people like you always asking for discount discount discount..... Maybe you can help him out setting up one....online shop that is...more discounts for helping out...??!!.