I hope you guys realise that the Bigfoot (both the LHR15 & LHR21) would be in the four figure price range. But if trully interested, I might be able to ask the supplier to send up a few for you guys. Provided that his coming shipment/stocks aren't spoken for yet.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jan 23 2013, 02:58 PM

Just to add. The machine you saw/tried the other day was the Flex 3401VRG vs Rupes LHR15 & LHR21. You didn't take any pictures ah?

I'll try to ask him to upload in our fb group la. That guy so secretive one....and difficult to catch.

Why undecided? Let me persuade you a little la. Both machines come from the same source and you're actually paying for the brand name for the more expensive of the two, whereby it's actually the cheaper of the two. And DAS6Pro=Ultramate.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jan 23 2013, 03:33 PM

Would it be more interesting to you if I were to say that the Bigfoot *might* have a price tag of around $400 instead of £400....

There are a few 'serious' kakis up there in Penang. You should hook up with them. Don't ask me how they got them but those guys have all sort of products from everywhere around the world man. Does the name Bernard rings any bell?

I think you misunderstood me. I didn't mean that both machines are the same. I meant both machine are sourced from the same factory (or thereabout). G220 is the cheaper machine but has a higher price tag (both locally and oversea).

I also think that when buying a machine like this you should also consider the reliability and warranty, especially if you're sourcing it from elsewhere. Our retailers/suppliers/distributors here, more than often enough, would be very reluctant to entertain any warranty claims especially if you didn't buy it from them, even if the machine comes with international warranty. I do suggest, if you're considering buying, try getting them locally, if possible. That's why I suggest the Ultramate as it has local support and it also come from the same factory that made the DAS6Pro - i.e. same machine with higher motor.

I don't own a DA, but I have a feeling that a few pre-own DAs would be on sale soon enough.....hehehe.....

I don't think they have a forum and I haven't seen them on line for quite a while now. But there's a group of detailing fanatic kakis up there that do meet up for TT regularly. I do keep in touch with them once in a while. As far as I know they are having a whole lot more fun and using a whole lot of different stuffs as compared to us down here. Let me see if I can hook you up with them.

Yup. The exact same one selling here:
http://osren.com/products.asp?categoryid=51&list=23

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jan 23 2013, 06:44 PM

Let me see if our Terengganu kaki can help out. I'm interested to know also.....

A small write up coming.....and I guess the long overdue V2 as well (crossing fingers.... )

???? I'm too old for this. Can you speak English please.....???

I also wonder if I can do what ever it is that you said since...well...I'm still a noob here with 0 post counts....hehehe....

Roger wilco....after I've gotten myself a good night sleep. 'Busy' day today....hehehehe....

Which wax?

Foam/sponge applicator - use dishwashing liquid & rinse well.

Microfiber applicator/cloth - soak for a couple of hours in normal liquid type cloth detergent mix (don't use the powder ones and try to avoid those that contain softener), rinse thoroughly. DO NOT SCRUB AS THIS WOULD DAMAGE THE FIBERS AND MAKE THEM HARD AND LATER USELESS FOR PAINT.

oh...and DO NOT dry any microfiber type of materials directly under the sun...dry them under shade (I normally dry mine indoor).

A WHOLE LOT if you're a nutcase like some of us. NOT THAT MUCH if you just want to maintain the clean and shiny look for as long as you own the car. JUST A LITTLE if you just want your car to look clean.

So where do you want to stand?

I've been using RainX....not much complaint.

Personally, I won't be bothered too much with rinsing and wiping dry after claying if I plan to wet-sand the whole car cuz it's going to get wet again (while 'wet' sanding) and also the surface is going to be compounded/polished so any marks or blemishes would be removed afterwards....just personal preference. And yeah, shouldn't you polish first before wax/sealant....????

Ok. Here's the thing. Normally, liquid sealant uses some sort of solvent or another as carrier, hence their liquid form. These type of carriers have a very mild cleaning properties. Some market these sealants as 'shine and protect'. The cleaning properties would remove, in part or in whole, whatever LSP/wax/sealant that's already on the surface. Normal paste waxes however, have very much less 'cleaners' in them. Hence applying a sealant on top of something else would be a little wasteful as some (or all) of the existing LSP would be removed, if the existing LSP hasn't properly cured. So, the idea is, if you want to top up or do a 2nd layer, use something that doesn't contain (much) cleaners in them. In general, the step is sealant (liquid) then wax (paste). Or, some times, two layer of sealants, not because to get 'double' protection but just to makes sure even coverage.

And another thing, let say both the sealant and wax you're using has very minimal cleaner. Sealants are generally more durable than waxes. I don't see any point of applying the less durable one at the bottom.....

Just my 2 sen.

Sounds better. If you don't plan to sand then need to dry la after claying...sorry about that...my bad.

Well, the more accepted terminology amongst detailers is that waxes and sealants serves the same purpose - LSP (Last Step Process), i.e. for protection. Generally speaking, waxes have more organic ingredients and normally come in a paste form whereas sealants are synthetics and comes in thick liquid form.

For what you're refering above for wax, we termed them as 'glaze'.

Just want to whish you guys who are celebrating:

Have a Happy, Prosperous and SHINY New Year!!!!