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 PROTON SAVVY LYN club V2 - AMT manual added!, -best little car in the market-

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TShypermount
post Sep 6 2008, 11:50 AM

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no interrupt, interupt request to make this thread hot is most welcome..

10k just a minor service, oil and filter change.

savvy in thailand..
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Added on September 6, 2008, 11:59 am
QUOTE(navigator @ Sep 3 2008, 08:48 PM)
My dealer will clean the TB for me tomorrow.

According to his statement, the TDC sensor and all other engine sensor reading is within spec even when driving....

So let's see if he's assumption is true...

My car's an AMT.... i dare not do it myself given that I seen how messy it is when dealing with TDC sensor beside the pump doh.gif
*
ahh hard to start can be caused by dirty throttle body also...

if you take out the TB and see the butterfly valve gap, it's very small...and this small gap throttles the engine at constant 2000 RPM if you install back the TB without hooking up the wire connector (since ours is throttle by wire type)!..so dirt, gunk, carbon could affect the starting, and idling... at usual idling 900 (hot), 1200 (cold) - the valve will close the already small gap further - that's why must clean TB at times.


Added on September 6, 2008, 1:35 pmrepost from savoc.


QUOTE
QUOTE("lj0000")
the original HU i saw during the technology day even got a steering remote control wire.

its a 2 wire system, and the remote is based on resistance. for example, hitting 27k means vol up.


hey..when installing my new hu, I found out there's 2 extra pins unused on the stock clarion HU, from the cable connector only 4 wires - there are 6 pins on the HU.. wires are ground, 12V battery, remote/acc wire and illumination trigger..and the other 2 function??

there is pin 1 and 5 on the HU, but no wires from the connector.

sequence from 1 from top to down, left to right

based on the clarion website
http://www.clarionworld.co.uk/stock/iso.asp

pin 1 = various??? / steering remote? or aux in..

pin 5 = auto aeriel, we don't have this..

+12v
Battery= live wire

+12v
Ignition = not at ignition, can be trigger at acc already/ and for remote functiom..


This post has been edited by hypermount: Sep 6 2008, 01:35 PM
TShypermount
post Sep 8 2008, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(navigator @ Sep 8 2008, 09:44 AM)
did any of you encountered this after changed most of the parts???

A power loss below 2000rpm & feels like a minor jerk but not stalling.

Happens between engine startups. means also if I pull over & restart engine the problem gone.

Just wonder...how many ppl got this problem? hmm.gif
*
It's the TDC sensor, either the cleaning or installation process were not done correctly..

happened to me twice in the span of 6 months..cleaned it and solved..still using the old type with the black connector.
TShypermount
post Sep 9 2008, 02:22 AM

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yup don't want to dampen your mood but the brake lock can be done cheaply outside at least RM50 with a nice switch..MT should be fine to do that while AMT is a bit complicated since the AMT system is also wired to the brake pedal, but I've seen many AMT users done this mod w/o any problem.

and I thought reverse sensor is standard for all savys?
TShypermount
post Sep 9 2008, 02:25 AM

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QUOTE(navigator @ Sep 8 2008, 05:17 PM)
I got reply from renautech already....

Their reply to me is same to proton...

It's not sensor related & they do not have a solution yet either...... rclxub.gif

But differ from what proton says is to renautech, this happened to AMT only while proton says both transmission will have same problem..... rclxub.gif
*
Hi you can try to PM MOHA774 in savoc.net...he cleaned the wiring harness from the sensor to the ecu and the problem solved..slow crank, hard to start I insist it has something to do with the TDC sensor tongue.gif ..
TShypermount
post Sep 9 2008, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(navigator @ Sep 9 2008, 07:14 AM)
They also insist that the startup is not "hard to start" where the car crank several time & still cannot start....

ah...maybe...proton talkingthe truth, D4F is having this problem.....

Even reputable Renautech already said so...what else can I say...all sensor value no problem..... doh.gif
*
oh..I think RS Auto's Mr Hoe is more "keng"..I thought they were same (cos he was under Renautech last time)...try to ask for his advice first..


Added on September 9, 2008, 10:18 am
QUOTE(lj0000 @ Sep 9 2008, 02:24 AM)
hyper.. what have u done to ur ice? any pic to show?
*
bragging time brows.gif later post some pics.

This post has been edited by hypermount: Sep 9 2008, 10:18 AM
TShypermount
post Sep 27 2008, 10:49 AM

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That's good..welcome davidmu smile.gif.
TShypermount
post Oct 1 2008, 08:03 AM

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QUOTE(ronaldpan @ Sep 29 2008, 09:50 PM)
yeah hopefully...

the problems posted in savoc quite scary.. biggrin.gif

but still wondering, y got so many D.I.Y in savoc? its like showing savvy got so many problems..(no hard feeling).

but my heart still saying, go for savvy..tongue.gif.. but i just cant ignore all this issues.. yala, i will be paying for it for maybe 7 or 9 years, later if i dont like it, want to sell it the price dropped edi..

so otai2 come la..

another thing, i think not many ppl buy savvy since savvy's thread only v2. other thread edi so far..maybe they scared with proton brand?
*
Cars bound to have problems later with tens of thousands components it's just how well the car could tolerate the faults...DIY means the faults are easy to rectify...there seems to be 2 major probs with AMT model - accumulator - RM1k to replace and robotic clutch RM2k - both NEW, still much cheaper than the whole transmission set - if you need to replace whole "exotic" transmission like the CVT for example.. MT model is generally reliable lime mine including the manual gearbox found on AMT>>

You can count on me like other enthusiastic owners who will keep the car for long time...love my baby very much - now nearly 80k km, 2005 car MT>


There's no thread about kelisa and kenari if you notive..and the kancil thread only begins to picking up...

still experiementing with RON92 petrol - BHP and ESSO 92 working fine on our cars...

This post has been edited by hypermount: Oct 2 2008, 12:28 PM
TShypermount
post Oct 2 2008, 12:29 PM

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yea the core of AMT is still the manual gearbox wink.gif which shouldn't be a problem
TShypermount
post Oct 6 2008, 10:53 PM

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go for the 1st ever tt meetup. rclxms.gif

RON92 after few fill up - seems ok..

best part is like return to old days with 2 bar and if you refill RM50 worth of petrol - 21.74 litres - can get full tank - 6 bar ..still at 4 bars after 160km.. u can do wonders on savvy if got 25 litres of petrol..using bhp petrol.
TShypermount
post Oct 7 2008, 03:46 AM

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just pm me for any stuffs wanna add on the 1st page.
TShypermount
post Oct 11 2008, 02:28 AM

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familiar?


TShypermount
post Oct 12 2008, 04:08 PM

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14km/l at that speed really not bad- that's why I love my savvy very much rclxms.gif ohh i love phil collins
TShypermount
post Oct 26 2008, 12:51 AM

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jeez man wat a beauty!!! like the silver..

u know what guys just came back from mersing thru jementah road few days ago..

went thru a flooded streach of road near jementah AT PREFFY HIGH SPEED..

water level was about half wheel high - when it happened I TOT my car would go DEAD! but it didn't...few kms then symtons of ingition coil prob appeared, slight jerking at idle and loss of power..classis ignition problem..but still can drive back - just need to transfer full spark to the spark plugs..

managed to reach kluang stopped at a petrol station.open my bonnet, AND WAS VERY SHOCKED to see flood water was all over the engine mounting and the spark plu road connector..took out the roads and was SHOCKED again to see the spark plug holes all four of them filled with water (flood water somemore !! with little dried leaves, twigs, debris etc)..no wonder all spark by the rod grounded on the water and plugs can't recieve ful power..tried to dry and clean the holes then only r emoved the spark plugs on the spot - it's all wet..! the engine is reaslly bullet proof/wter proof - the placement of the fuse box and ECU is smart, the water splash is blocked by the manual gearbox - the AMT components would be protected as well on the right side of the engine by the manual gearbox..the water came from the timing side of the engine (left)..the bottom splah guards seem to minimise water entry also..


managed to drive back to melaka - all smooth all the way -


something I learn about engine balacing by pistons - if there IS NO firing in 2nd or 3rd cylinder, the engine wouldn't vibrate much - JUST LITTLE vibration, if there's no firing in 1st and 4th - it will vibrate like hell..cos the firing sequence in a 4 cylinder engine is 1 and 4 up, 2,3 down at the same time and vice versa... never so love this car like before...like what sgt randleman said to his squad.


Added on October 26, 2008, 12:52 amcos it was dark at that time..couldn't see anything ;P

This post has been edited by hypermount: Oct 26 2008, 12:52 AM
TShypermount
post Oct 27 2008, 09:27 PM

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QUOTE(Lim Ling Yang @ Oct 26 2008, 12:57 AM)
You dried them with air gun only opened the spark plugs right?
Or else water go inside engine die loh.
Btw the engine sounds funny right when got water in spark plug area? laugh.gif
*
ya..but I dried them manually since it was already late and I'm not familiar with Kluang tongue.gif ..did take some time thou..

and crank started the engine without spark plugs to spit out water.

The area of the engine which was full with water..and the spark plugs wells fill with water..

user posted imageuser posted image


Added on October 27, 2008, 9:30 pm
QUOTE(death_nite @ Oct 27 2008, 07:23 PM)
just came back from putrajaya to jb.

happy! my average fc around 16-17km/l with average speed of 120kmh on highway.

dont ask me how i count. i use the same method we all use.

btw i hate shell at precinct 8 putrajaya. the nozzle didnt know how to stop filling. doh.gif wasted some petrol.  mad.gif 2 times edy! argh!
*
Try BHP and you will be surprise.
The hype about BHP is real man..just that I prefer petronas loyalty points programs where the points will not expire...guess what BHP epoints expired after 2 years and stuffs could be redeemed at tens of thousands of points only.

This post has been edited by hypermount: Oct 27 2008, 09:30 PM
TShypermount
post Nov 7 2008, 06:31 AM

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A layer of RUST acts as a protestant against further oxidation, and you will see this on engineering structures like bridges, buldings etc (brown colour)...You will never rust SOLID iron like your driveshaft away from outside.. The only thing it doesn't look good. If it bothers you much claim warranty them apply some coating on your new driveshaft..



TShypermount
post Nov 12 2008, 12:29 PM

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Only oil and oil filter change during 1k km service...

Manual says no need to change filter - but then sure got lotsa particles after running in the car..


Added on November 12, 2008, 12:31 pm
QUOTE(blackorange @ Nov 11 2008, 03:30 PM)
savoc.net
huhu... its hard to find info there...
need to go through many pages till get the answer.

anyhow, that site is quite useful despite its zero valued post.

btw, i've installed R3 muffler yesterday. i like the sound.
however, i didnt notice any improvement yet (whether FC or pickup) as ppl had claimed.
*
aiyo - we can't say LYN is not useful cos of the Kopitiam section, can we?

I can't believe you say that...look at other forums like problems, modifications etc..I dun think they have 0 valued post.


Added on November 12, 2008, 12:32 pm
QUOTE(lj0000 @ Nov 9 2008, 02:51 AM)
David's midnight posting:
Savvy simplified aux in method!

hijack the radio signal. tested very clean like cd!

Tools needed:
1. fine tip soldering iron
2. de-soldering braid. if dun have can just use normal sucker
3. soldering tin
4. ribbon cable. (steal from old floppy disk cable)
5. 3.5mm socket.  (steal from old rm5 china radio)
6. bench power supply 12VDC. (if dun have, use ur modem power, power brick, atx psu etc)
7. multimeter.
8. a small piece of wire as antenna
9. speakers
10. mini stereo to mini stereo cable, MP3 player
Step by step
1. Dismantle your unit - look in savoc for hint on how to do this. Savoc step by step upgrade
2. flip over belly up, and unhinge the back plate. No need to unscrew anything.
    There are several metal clips, just slightly push them to open.
    warranty sticker is voided at this point
3. identify the hijack point: radio audio out
    [attachmentid=664131]

4. Identify the Audio output port L and R. Desolder them carefully. It must be very clean. after desolder, use a multimeter to ensure no continuity. If you fail this part, you will need to resort to cutting the PCB trace.
    [attachmentid=664135]

5. carefully solder the ribbon cable to the PCB board. careful not to let too much tin go and short the pins to pcb. if so, go back to step 4 and clean again.
    These cables will go into preamp.
    [attachmentid=664137]

6. now, seal it with tape. then solder the ribbon cables ON THE TIP OF THE PINS.
    if not careful and spill too much tins, go back to step 4.
    These cables returns the radio signal to preamp.
    [attachmentid=664139]

7. at the socket part, do your soldering too.
    [attachmentid=664142]

8. clean up, use multimeter to test and retest no short circuit occur
  power up!
  use the radio, and tune to any station. make sure got radio sound come out.
  now, plug the mini-stereo cable. this should mute the radio sound
  fire up your mp3 player. songs shud play thru the speakers.
  [attachmentid=664143]

9. go have a drink and celebrate a bit.

10. while you are at it the pcb. why not add another wire for steering remote control?
  [attachmentid=664149]

11. i prefer to have a solid connection. so i use a strip board to tidy up
      carefully tape away potential short circuit points, and put the cover back.
    Viola!
    [attachmentid=664150]

next step will be to mount it. maybe i will go shop for a better connector, drill a hole at the face plate to mount the aux-in port.
another next step more....get a usb based mp3 player and solder directly
*
Awesome DIY well done..lol..the CD line should be crisp clear.

This post has been edited by hypermount: Nov 12 2008, 12:32 PM
TShypermount
post Nov 13 2008, 08:21 PM

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That RPM meter drop issue is cause by the gearbox speed sensor. For unknown reason, Proton named the TDC/crankshaft/Fywheel sensor part as speed sensor also (engine magnetic speed sensor). The speed sensor or the speedometer sensor is more universally known around the word for the its name - function is to get the engine's RPM speed data.

here's the location of the gearbox speed sensor.
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This sensor hard to spolit one - check the connection.


USe only distilled water for the coolant system, the yellow warning label is there on top of the radiator for a reason (asking us to use only deionized water, deionization is one of the process for water purification).


TShypermount
post Nov 18 2008, 03:27 AM

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Seriosly kewl looking for white colour SAVVY with full bodykits..only available for lite version..you have space to mod ur car there.

Only orange and silver available for Hi-line. I guess they really wanna make these another kewl colours more exclusive.
TShypermount
post Nov 19 2008, 04:12 AM

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QUOTE(padisawah @ Nov 19 2008, 01:02 AM)
2 years oledi but low mileage. just clocked 34k only
one of the connector got moisture inside. when took out the connector, can see the brownish mark like there's water inside
so now, when driving, the engine stutter badly but still can move la. since today no stock for the coil, so has to wait for tmrw. SC ppl said the car can still move safely and wont jeopardise the engine. is it true? coz i really need to use the car to go to work tmrw. the next day then only i'll bring the car to change for a new set.
*
is your car still under warranty - it's the classic problem...the coil is actually fine - there's leakage at the end of the connector boot nia, so keep the oldcoil if you have it changed to new one...

If they forced expensive replacemnt down your throat - you can opt for cheaper option..refer to Airline at garage sales, RM260 for Bosch old design or RM500++ new design(RM250 for coil + RM250 cable) - I hope any owners out there who is using the new design coil set can share with us, just take a savvy spark plug and try with aftermarket plug cables for other cars - looks similar cost about RM100 niah for performance plug cable.


This is the new design - probably local sourced - more durable with thicker sillicone or rubber connector boot.
user posted image


Old design - plug cables permanently attached to the coil pack.
user posted image

Even savvy Taiwan spec is using performance cables cos seems thicker...delicious blue cables.
user posted image



if your car's warranty over liao, total damage to ur pocket is only less than RM10 if you salvage old plug cables from bengkel (mine is using hyundai ) hehe if you mod the connector. Use non screw in type plug cables. Cut the cable and fit in the replacement.

Replacement hyundai spark plug cables.
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Cause of the problem
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I even removed the metal connector to ensure the spark won't go/arc sideway - only come from the end of the cable...but this will not grip on spark plug heads..the metal connector's function is to grip on the plug head...just make sure the cable touching the spark plug head....working fine for more than 40k km liao....only at 100 000 km I will change the coil set.



user posted image
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New owners shouldn't be worry - 2008 - they are using new design liao with cables/connectors that can be separated from the coil...we're using direct ignition btw with pre-determined firing, no distributor in between - if problems at the cables - just change the cables only.

My 3rd n 4th is modded (renault sequence is 1-2 from right to left) - usually 4th is the source of the problem.


Added on November 19, 2008, 4:22 am
QUOTE(rkjsoo @ Nov 19 2008, 01:04 AM)
should be no problem , just make sure the part is dry
*
Read my account ..when my whole engine was flooded with water cos gone too fast on a flooded road (never slow down) ..craxy rclxms.gif .. 4 of the spark plug holes were filled with water to the brim (dirty flood water somemore)..

http://www.motortrader.com.my/asp/forum/to...?TOPIC_ID=30019

Never like ..luckily the electronics were not shorted..never loved the car so much like before after the incident and it's sure a water proof engine...water tend to enter thru the timing side although got bottom splash guards...ECU, fusebox are protected by the gearbox..

This post has been edited by hypermount: Nov 19 2008, 04:22 AM
TShypermount
post Nov 20 2008, 01:11 AM

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Hows the Amsoil ATM 10W/30? Feels good eh? Now on nearly 40k km on this (third time drain change)...plan to extend another 5km to 15k km before 4th drain with 3 oil filter change.

For the fuel cap - i've seen savvy with those Brother type R cap chrome colour - should be cheap - no need to paint.

I think should be called fuel lid. the cap is the plastic cap inside one.

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