some parts, u'll need to assemble first. to cover the seamline. if dun assemble, how to cover leh?

wat i'll do is look at the manual before building. from there can gauge which parts need to cover seam n which don't.

internals...i assemble then i spray paint. easier n faster. spray external armor individually.

if lazy, which is normal for me...i assemble all after painting to do coating. then decal...then flat coat.

if hardworking...spray coating on individual armor before putting together.

dude...topcoat is for finishing...i.e. last thing you do. primer is starting of painting. first thing you do...masking, etc is in the middle of the painting process. don't mix it up. i believe i've wrote a pretty lengthy explanation in this thread on what's the common flow for painting. starting from primer to decal to topcoating...

well, u seem to have done everything correctly. but the key question is always on how the coat is being sprayed onto the kit. n ur definition of not too near and thin. as for me, i spray my topcoat in my airconditioned room and has no issue of frosting (don't try this at home kids...cos the smell is baddddd). spraycans for topcoat more convenient lazy to on the compressor and wash airbrush just for this. but blardy expensive to use spraycans

my suggestion is this. spray in quick bursts. i.e. press the nozzle (away fr the kit) then while spraying, move it across the kit), release. like the picture below...assuming N is the nozzle, > is the spray. the entire process N to N shld be approx 1 sec or less. and as zero717 mentioned, make sure the spraycan is shaken properly. n do that after every burst.

>N ....Kit.... >N

test it...u're already doing it. so why not just continue and see wat's the outcome that suits u best? part of using an airbrush is to test with the various effects. different spraying style and method has different effect. but yes, on a general way...spray layer by layer til the color has been covered. but for black, it shld cover faster. u're spraying it too thin.

No. 3mm gap is a bit too big for tamiya putty. u'll end up using a lot of them to fill it up. best to use epoxy putty to cover it e.g. bondite (cheapo alternative) or tamiya's epoxy putty (mucho expensive). another way is, slot in a 2mm+0.5mm pla plate. glue it, then only use putty to cover the smaller gap.

I've posted a short explanation on topcoating just 1 page before your posts...go read it lar. The same explanation applies for gloss coat. But for gloss coat, you can lay it on wet, i.e. heavier spray but avoid too heavy as the coating will then clot at the edges.



Multifilla has a wide variety of things for hobby: sculpting, embroidery, painting, etc. so u can run around there to find things that may suit you. but i'd believe it's more relevant for those that at least has a certain understanding/skill level in model kit building as "alternative" items sometimes require different way to handle it. another thing on the pin vise...it's a cheap alternative...n with that price...be prepared for it to function as one. i bought mine fr there n some parts rusted. but overall still can use lar. 3 yrs liao.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Aug 18 2009, 10:43 AM

another way is to use color pencils or 2/3B pencils...not draw direct. but shave the lead to get the powder. then use a brush to slowly blot the powder on the area u want to shade.

wat do u mean by cover the titanium unicorn? if u're referring to painting to touch up on the exposed part...well, special editions like these are not meant to be painted. n i doubt anyone here can paint to the exact of the original coating.

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Added on August 24, 2009, 9:03 am1. Tamiya Spray Cans are Acrylics. Check the can, i believe it's mentioned in the fine prints on the labels.

Grey can topcoats from Gunze can practically go on almost any paint types.

2. I believe it is.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Aug 24 2009, 09:03 AM

that case, i guess best option...white+pearl white+gloss then handpaint into those small exposed area.

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Added on August 25, 2009, 10:56 amGX the paint is suppose to be smoother. Something like having levelling thinner in it. And the bottle is bigger, hence more paint. Price...well, more paint = more expensive.

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Added on August 25, 2009, 10:57 amer...buy wat set? compressor? kit? tv? come on...being a newbie don't mean being vague in your questions.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Aug 25 2009, 10:57 AM

there's gloss clear. not the spraycans but liquid form that are used to airbrush or mixed with flat paint. so u go get the gloss clear n mix into the color. alternatively, just mix white with the pearl powder white. paint it, then only use the gloss coat to cover.

dude, wat tips you want? u have to try out on your own first. i did the same when i started back modelling after stopping for a few years. u don't expect ppl to write down everything here to explain do you? or are you talking about giving you a few ringgit as tips???

yes, Anchor brand paints are pretty ok. I haven't used it before but based on some response in other forums, it's usable.

what things? melted plastic? then sand it off. i believe the basic tutorial link that erh_teo has posted would help u get back to knowing how to build them kits again. read em and start practising. that's the only way to learn. only ask when after/while trying, u get into problems. it makes it easier for ppl to explain/help u out then. and for goodness sake, be specific as to what u want to know. ask in English or BM, nooooooooooo problem. just don't ask in Japanese.

boss, 'if you really "stuck"'. not "stuck up"...stuck up = snobbish

depends on what u plan to do with it. if u want it to continue to be transparent, then it's a very bad idea to do so as it'll become translucent aka not transparent anymore.

discuss pricing with oldman. white color on decal sheets can only be printed nicely by an ALPS printer. i don't think there're any other printer which can cater to that color properly. also, you can contact him as he has already pre-printed some decals for sale.

primer's main purpose are:
1) create better "bite" into the plastic. basically it'll create better bond to the plastic for the subsequent coats of paint. This is the PRIMARY function of the primer. rest are secondary..
2) help check for flaws. i think primer removes the shine of the plastic and also create a uniform coat of paint. it helps in seeing the flaws/scratches/etc on the kit.
3) fills up minor scratches. this is just a side result from Mr Surfacer.

Mr Base White is not really a primer. The proper way to use it is:
Mr Surfacer -> Mr Base White -> normal painting

White Surfacer by Tamiya can be used as primer but i doubt u can find it in Malaysia.

You can use White Base as 1st coat but it won't function fully like a surfacer which is to create better bond between the next layer of paint with the plastic. i.e. easier to peel off...especially if u're doing masking.

it becomes more glossy or more flat in terms of shine..depending on which topcoat u used.

HHQ ran out of chrome silver stock (i got the last bottle a few weeks back). u can go n ask the owner when he'll restock. it costs abt RM33 per bottle. note, Alcad has to be sprayed i.e. use airbrush. u can try AFHobby to see if they brought in Alcad (i doubt it).

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Added on September 29, 2009, 2:14 pmglad u find interest in the hobby. cost wise? well...it's not exactly a cheap hobby but then, there're cheap alternatives to start off with.
1. Paintbrushes - those u use for art class thingy.
2. Paint - hobby paints. these costs abt RM7-8 per bottle.
3. Coating - one of the more expensive stuffs. these costs abt RM35 per spraycan.
4. the kit...well, obviously this will be the most expensive thing. depending where u buy...it can cost a bomb. start with the simple HG kit.
5. super glue (to cover seamlines) - cheaper alternative to Tamiya putty but darn hard to sand
6. sandpaper
7. liquid cement fr tamiya

how much total? excluding the kit...less than RM100. where to get the kits? go to Singapore. cheaper kits there. if not, search around forums.

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Added on September 29, 2009, 2:27 pmusual method is to mix the food colouring with Future. Then dip the clear part into the mixture...pull out n let it dry on a piece of tissue paper or the kitchen paper rolls.

the other method, especially for small clear parts is to use permanent marker.
http://z3.invisionfree.com/Zero_G/index.ph...6488&st=0&#last

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Added on September 29, 2009, 2:32 pmnot too sure about Penang but u can try check out Modelland. a bunch of modellers hang out there. guess u'll need to google out modelland penang. i believe the shop's in Penang Isle.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Sep 29 2009, 02:32 PM

use blu tack or Play Doh to cover that area u want. roll into work shape, place onto the blade. adjust to the shape u want n cover the remaining empty area with masking tape.

if not, freehand the paint job.
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moisture trap/pressure gauge can also be found in Vision Art (Sunway - the shops beside Sunway Pyramid where the police station is), Hobby HQ @ Fraser Business Park. but i doubt those pumps being used for tyre is recommended for airbrushing as the air pressure may not be consistent. but heck, u can try it and tell us if it works.
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Mark Softer is actually decal glue. besides over soaking the decal n end up removing the thin film of glue on the original decals, some old decals' glue will not be sticky anymore. so using mark softer helps to stick. especially if u're using aftermarket decals. and it oso help reduce silvering as well.
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Alclad, Hobby HQ is the only shop stocking that in KL at the moment if i'm not mistaken but currently out of stock (again, i took the last bottle of Chrome). but the new stock shld be coming in a couple of weeks time. and no, u cannot handpaint Alclad. the paint is too thin as it's pre-thinned for airbrush usage. no need try on Alclad...u properly thin out normal paint til milk consistency (typical airbrush paint ratio) n try handpainting it...it's like tryin to paint water on the kit.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Oct 27 2009, 01:05 PM

How is Proton Wira compared to Mitsubishi Lancer? both works, both got wheels, both can get u fr point A to point B...looks almost the same some more.

Well, i find the original version to be better. levelling ability is better. for the My Hobby one, under heavy dilution (put in lotsa thinner compared to paint)...when i tried using low pressure for preshading, i have some mini dots of paint i.e. paint but surrounded by some liquid. but then, it may just be me.

unless the price difference is bigger...i rather choose Mr Hobby's thinner or industrial thinner if i really want to stinge.

anyway, if u're the type who's afraid of ruining the kit using industrial thinner but dowan to spend the money to get Mr Hobby thinner...i guess My Hobby would be an alternative.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Oct 27 2009, 04:34 PM