http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZJ-001

it's abt 140g... weight n stuffs can be found online. u'll just need to google it.

oso note...ppl have to go to post office n wrap it for u. so...do expect an extra premium on postage. but whether reasonable or not...ur choice.

read the previous posts. he's talkin abt someone in johor shipping spray paints to him. hlj is being used as reference on the weight of the spray cans. no one said anything abt shipment fr hlj for the paints.

fiber heli canopy? how big is that? and how much is your budget?

to avoid peeling off the paint...
1) prime the kit before painting.
2) more importantly, let the paint dry 24 hrs before trying any masking. although on the surface the paint may be dry, the bottom layer may not have melded into the plastic/primer layer yet.
3) lessen the glue on the tape. e.g. stick it on ur hand a couple of time before you put on the kit. reason being, industrial tapes are way too strong. it'll peel off paint. try puttin it on ur shin and do a quick peel off the tape. see how it feels and how much leg hair u lost
4) gently remove maskin tape. plastic dun feel pain but peeling it off too fast usually result in paint sticking to the tape
5) dun leave the tape too long on the kit. glue residue will remain on the kit and i believe, when u remove the tape...u're more likely to peel off paint too. just like if u tape anything and leave too long, when u pull off the tape... u can find glue on the box/plastic wrapper/etc.

This post has been edited by davelcm: May 5 2009, 01:23 PM

1) if u spray coating...it should not affect the transparent part...but if u flat coat it...they may be "frosting" effect...i.e. the flat coat becomes whitish. it has nothing to do with the transparent part...just that the flat coat not sprayed on properly.

2) i don't see any reasons why it won't be so.

why that detergent advise so familiar wan?

poster colors are very soluble. if u spray the top coat thick (or wat we call wet coat it on), the color will dilute into ur coating. whereas mist spray is tiny drops of coat that'll mostly dry by the time it hits the plastic. won't dilute/mix wif the panel line colors.

PG strike. you won't find in the local market. it's printed by "aftermarket" dealers. you may try www.hobbiescorner.com. usually he stocks a bit of aftermarket decals but he has not been bringing in new items..so may not have it.

where are you? u dun say where u are, we can't tell u where to buy the things.

and, there's no MG deep striker. Only one in the market is the resin kits. those costs abt RM1000+ each.

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Added on May 18, 2009, 11:25 ami think just a few posts back, someone mentioned Copic pens? If not, go stationery shops and look for those felt tip pens. look for the thinnest tip. u can use that.

This post has been edited by davelcm: May 18 2009, 11:25 AM

mist coat in quick passes when using spraycans for coating. distance fr kit? about 10cm. waste? yes, that's the result of using spraycans.

how to do that...well, press lightly on the trigger/cap of the spraycan away fr the kit. then go left to right/ or right to left with the kit in the middle in quick successions.

so it should be...
1) press the cap to start spray. the coating spray should be away fr the kit.
2) move the spray onto the kit quickly
3) now the spray should be away fr the kit already
4) release trigger and start fr step 1.

well, this is the best i can do on explanation. i think youtube has a few clips on model kit making. look through them. japanese modellers tend to use spraycans for priming the kit. concept it the same in spraying. the do quick passes when spraying. n not laying the whole can thick on the kit.

if it's flat coat, u shldn't be seeing the kit like it has just been washed i.e. wet look. that shld solve your "frosting" issue i.e. white specks. as for grainy feel...spray closer to the kit.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Jul 8 2009, 01:44 PM

the number of layers depend on how flat you want. spray til u're satisfied.

top coating with FLAT will fog up clear parts. GLOSS coats will have no effect other than making it shinier.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Jul 9 2009, 09:48 AM

Hobby HQ orders Alcad once a while...but very much in demand colors e.g. Chrome Silver finishes very fast. best is to go ask him when he's ordering, then book 1 bottle. er...booking sometimes depend on familiarity i think. regulars tend to be able to get that. not too sure for non-regulars. if cannot book, just ask when it'll arrive. then call him at the date he mentioned. he'll most likely say havn't arrive...n give u another date. call him on the next date mentioned. repeat cycle til u get the paint.

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Added on July 9, 2009, 1:44 pmhmm...if u can get metallic paints such as steel/gunmetal in spraycans, then it shld be fine. not as much option as airbrushed but i guess it should be "less toyish"

This post has been edited by davelcm: Jul 9 2009, 01:44 PM

1) dark colors are easier to handpaint than light colors when it comes to reducing brush strokes.
2) yes, if you thin it correctly and paint correctly...you won't see brush strokes but then 1) still applies.
3) but if u want reaaaaaaaaaaaaaally glossy like mirror kind, best to use spraycans. if not, handpaint...then multiple of gloss coats plus polishing,etc shld help
4) no expiry dates but it will dry after a while. so if you kept up the thinner level in the bottles, it should be fine. and why are you keeping paint for 10 years? anyway, some of my paints are 4-5 years old. still fine. if dried, just need to add thinner and let it be for a while before stirring the bottom paint up.

are u handpaintin the kit? if that's the case, i believe there are few possibilities on how you get the bubbles.
1) paint bottle itself...u shake n stir..n paint being a bit thick, air bubbles get caught in the paint.
2) air pockets in the brush. i.e. paint not fully immerse/wet with paint. so u get air bubbles.

for these, what i did was add couple of drops of thinner into the paint. also clean the brush properly. it may be a chemical reaction, i.e. 2 chemical content don't mix...so you get spots in btwn...so when u paint...u get bubble spots. but then, this is from my experience..not scientifically proven.

if airbrush...rarely get bubbles unless it's water drops. then u'll need to get a moisture trap for it.

well, not too sure why your top coat has bubbles. are you handbrushing them or spraycan or airbrush?

yeah, spraying too thick fr can will result some air being caught in the spray. mist it and dun lay it on too thick.

wash the kit if necessary...n ur hands too. then prime the kit. let it dry for 24 hrs before painting.

white spots when flat coating is something called "frosting". i believe in this thread somewhere..there's an explanation on it n how to solve it.