Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed
6 Pages < 1 2 3 4 5 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

views
     
madmoz
post Sep 2 2008, 01:01 AM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


hmm... then practise more i must. i just use gold on top of a black layer now as i cannot get the 'shine' using silver and clear yellow (or any other clear colour for that matter).
i.e. tried using mr hobby blue on top of a mr hobby silver for an SD kampfer but got a nice metallic peacock blue instead of metallic blue that i wanted doh.gif

This post has been edited by madmoz: Sep 2 2008, 01:02 AM
madmoz
post Sep 8 2008, 03:10 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


try underlaying with black?
madmoz
post Sep 8 2008, 06:52 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


well, if you want shiny gold or chrome silver, gundam markers are a decent alternative
madmoz
post Sep 8 2008, 10:17 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


eh? don't get you? i use spray can surfacers a lot, and no problems so far. Frosting problem isit? If so, maybr you can use a hair dryer to blow it once you surface... read the tip somewhere and haven't had problems since.
madmoz
post Sep 9 2008, 03:47 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


mr surfacer white and mr base white what's the difference ar?
madmoz
post Sep 9 2008, 04:15 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


so better to use mr surfacer white then? as opposed to mr base white?

nod.gif i'm using base white too paint white too, otherwise so hard to get pure 'white'. What is the ratio for base white / thinner? Am using spray cans (for surfacer and base white) at the moment cause i had some nightmares with thinning mr surfacer earlier shakehead.gif

This post has been edited by madmoz: Sep 9 2008, 04:18 PM
madmoz
post Sep 9 2008, 04:43 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


heheh thanks erh_teo, time to go a hunting for supplies again then!
madmoz
post Sep 9 2008, 04:57 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


AF Hobby sells these. Or try your luck in art shops cause copic is a rather famous marker ink brand.
madmoz
post Sep 9 2008, 05:03 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


not sure, been a while since i got a new one. why don't you ask him!
madmoz
post Sep 11 2008, 12:48 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


i do think that the marker pen version (the one we noobs use to panel line) will rub off to an extent. However, no problems if you topcoat it, although i had an experience when i topcoated within an hour of panel lining and the lines 'kembang' a bit.
madmoz
post Sep 24 2008, 06:20 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


not all spray cans are safe. try handpaiting, doesn't cost that much more than using gundam markers and with time you can get great results.
madmoz
post Oct 23 2008, 07:57 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


can always drop by the SD thread and look look see see. quite a number of very good hand painters there to leech skills from too.
madmoz
post Oct 25 2008, 06:02 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


Do you guys paint MG inner frames? From what i've seen only the knee and elbow joints as well as the fingers show?
madmoz
post Oct 25 2008, 08:55 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


gundam markers are terribly hard to use when u need to paint large areas.
since can afford 1/60 stuff including PG, go get some decent brushes and handpaint. much easier.
madmoz
post Oct 25 2008, 10:00 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


darn, i was thinking of not painting the inner frame cause most of it you tak nampak one and painting the armor only...
so painting won't affect the movement? i.e. clog up the movable bits?
madmoz
post Oct 27 2008, 10:30 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


tamiya masking tape comes off easily. Which is good.
madmoz
post Oct 28 2008, 08:15 AM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


that'll melt your gunpla.
madmoz
post Oct 31 2008, 11:24 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


i believe tamiya sprays are lacquer
madmoz
post Nov 1 2008, 08:20 AM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Oct 31 2008, 11:41 PM)
not really.. i've bought acrylic b4... i kno in 1U most of them are acrylic one
*
isit? nvm then, bagi wrong info pulak! Sorry.
madmoz
post Nov 1 2008, 09:54 PM

New Member
*******
Senior Member
4,250 posts

Joined: Nov 2006


Mr Color Thinner -> RM40 for 400ml
Industrial Thinner -> RM17 for 2kgs

Mr Color is lacquer right? And Tamiya paints from Tamiya Underground are acrylic? That would explain why Tamiya chips easier compared to Mr Color?

6 Pages < 1 2 3 4 5 > » Top
Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0570sec    0.54    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 1st December 2025 - 01:15 AM