Below is how does the thermal paste seperate when I installed the S1283 vertically. I wonder that how you guy put the thermal paste when using the S1283 cooler. Normally, I put a small drop on center of the proc as what I did for few previous cooler. Somehow, I remount the cooler recently but the temperature is higher a lot than before, 3.3GHz full load @ 60~61'c with surrounding temperature 32'c in the morning. I recheck the mounting and there is nothing wrong. Maybe someone can enlighten me?



This post has been edited by gsan: Mar 29 2008, 10:00 AM

IMO, You can't use the rice grain drop method on HDT technology.
Try spreading a thin layer of TIM on the IHS.
See either it perform better or worse.

But still, i don't think the rice grain drop method is useful on HDT technology.

owh, no wonder like that.........use a paper to spread the thermal paste evenly........btw, i already banked in the balance to you

I got the higher temperature with that method as well.
This is because of the drop wont be wide enough to let the heatpipe get in touch with processor IHS
Thermalpaste should be applied to all heatpipes in order to dissipate the heat faster.

The reason why the rice grain method won't work on HDT based heatsink is because HDT tends to have some "longkang" on each side of the heatpipes, thus, it reduces the thermal transfer power.

If you use rice grain method, the TIM layer will be so thin, it won't go into those "longkang" which will result to a weaker thermal transfer.
On HDT, you need to spread the TIM all over the processor's IHS, with a lil bit more TIM on the IHS, some of the TIM will be pushed into those "longkang's".

Despite the high performance of HDT technology based heatsink, i found two weakness in HDT:
1. You can't use HDT based heatsink on naked core CPU & GPU.
2. You have to use more TIM compared to non HDT heatsink.

PS:
Sorry, i don't remember what's "longkang" in english. Sorry!

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Apr 10 2008, 05:33 PM

lol... drain if i'm not mistaken bro...

so, the thermal paste should apply evenly on the IHS only and both the IHS and the base of the s1283?

No, but i'm not really sure the best apply method though.
I apply a thin line along the IHS (AS5 method for quadcore) then add a bit at each side of the line(this is to ensure there is thermalpaste in between the IHS and heatpipes).

not sure about the ultimate method, but usually i'll spread it all even on the IHS, but no too thick....

this method so far considered successful as i've even removed a heatsink with AM2 proc stuck on the base(came off together when i remove the heatsink, heck, the clip is still locked)

this is quite often to happen when using AS5, for me though

i apply tim at each heatpipe

agreed, most of the TIMs tend to be 'pushed' to the grooves in between the HDT pipe & the alu base. Droop method isnt effective on HDT. need to spread a thin line adjacent to the pipes

What a good explanation I must say

I totally agree with brother sHawTY in the ways to apply the TIM on HDT.

based on earlier discussions in ckhoong's thread, a rep from xigmatek had already explained that the best method to apply TIM on s1283 is using 'rice grain' method... even some users like kmarc 'invented' his own method in applying TIM, its not that effective than applying it normally...
therefore, i apply TIM as usual, using rice grain method... so far, no problems... it has been 8months... huhu

it should be fine if your rice grain size is big enough to cover all three heatpipes.
did you ever take the cooler out and have a look on the heatsink base?
were the TIM got contact with all the heatpipes?

I've tried the rice grain method and it doesn't work well. Like what our forumers has said, a lot of TIM will just go into the grooves. You'll find that it doesn't spread out nicely, and the side heatpipes don't get much TIM at all.

Furthermore, if you attempt to put more TIM in the middle, you'll end up with a thick paste in the middle, causing less contact....

For me, I just apply a thin line of TIM on all 3 heatpipes. Maybe a blob on the aluminium plat too. When I remove the HSF after a while, I noticed that it does cover the proc and based of the HSF evenly.....

This post has been edited by kmarc: Apr 7 2008, 07:41 AM

guys. just wanna ask. if not all of the push pins are not in place, can it affect the temp? b'coz only 3 out of 4 pins is properly secure... will my proc temp increase higher than a stock intel cooler?

YES.
Indeed it is hard to secure all of the 4 pin.

What should you do is take out the motherboard and fix the heatsink to the board before you put it back into the casing.

PS:
This is why most hardcore users prefer bolt through compared to push pin method.

oh then i am in trouble. i just broke the pin. haha. now i have to purchase a bolt thru kit...

got pic? it worth billion words

So sorry... didn't take any pics..... maybe next time...

i install my bro's s1283 with tx2 using dollop method e6750.. no problem... 28C idle... no aircond

self drawing pic also can

if the tim applied is too thick.. will it affect temps and maybe make it harder to remove later on? please advice me. tq

This post has been edited by glock88: Apr 13 2008, 09:47 PM

why at d beginning only d proc temp low...then after few days..temp not as 1st time installed d cooler?is't because of thermalpaste oso..?

Well, it'll be harder to remove, but the real problem is that too much thermal paste will make heat transfer worse (too thick). The whole idea of thermal paste is to force out air from being trapped in between the HSF and proc (air is a horribly poor conductor), however thermal paste isn't really as conductive as most people think.

Your HSF mounting may have shifted, and the contact is not not as good as it was originally. Nothing to to with thermal paste.

How do i remove d intel thermalpaste? I'm changing to Xigmatek Red Scorpion... and I'm going to use Tuniq Tx 2.. But i can't find any cleaners available for sell.... Any ways to help me, guys?

Search for Arctic Cleaner in the CPU section....

Alcohol or spirit works well too if you're looking for a cheap alternative.

Use alcohol too clean it the one we use to clean cassette deck....works for me..

owh,like dat eh?...tQ for d info.i think can reduce d temp a bit if use S&S kit.currently use push pin..so susah nk push tightly.

i got a question. is it possible to hit 27 degrees for cpu temp with core1 and core2 each at 40 & 41 using the s1283??? the cpu colt is 1.184V

This post has been edited by glock88: Apr 16 2008, 06:29 PM

For some reason, CPU temp and Core 1 & 2 temps are usually not the same. The only reason I can think of is that the CPU temp is from a sensor underneath the CPU (on the mobo) while the Core is the thermal diode in the CPU. That way the sensor outside will register a cooler temp than the core.

why u so suprise...?my cpu temp 7-9 only..but d core reach 48-50 when i 1st installed it

huh??
bro u mean ur cpu temp is 7c-9c?? thats like almost freezing cold la... it that even possible?

7 -9 not possible rite? ambient temp in malaysia is not even close to that. how can u get that on air?

thats y im asking him... maybe he is living some where else... who knows...

There is something seriously wrong either with your sensor or the software you're using to read the temp. Or you are from somewhere really cold..like siberia..

haha true true. unless u live in somewhere like siberia where temps could go minus something

oi..oi...wat u guys thinking?i said d cpu temp between 7c to 9c ler.how come it become -7?haha
i'm not worry bout dat cpu temp...wat give me headache is d core temp..

bro still at 7 is almost impossible to reach on air alone. can explain how u get? with core temp at 40 i dont think so.

i think is the wrong reading.... core temp at 40+ means cpu is around 30+..

dat why la...me myself dunno wat to do or wat i hv done.since pc no problm,so i don't really care...but long term,proc boley jalan.

off topic,

anyone using TX2 ? is it looks like MX2 or AS5 type? need to use artic cleaner to remove it or can direct clean with tissue?

Well, I use spirit and cotton wool. Tissue alone isn't recommended, but in a pinch it won't really cause any serious problems.

i'm using tx2 and i use swan alcohol cleaner only...plus i use the make up wiper tissue (took from my wife make up case )

if its really tough to remove u can use nail polish remover... works nicely.. but remember to clean the surface with alchohol b4 u reapply ur TIM...

Thinner also works wonders on tough removals, better than nail polish remover (aka Acetone), but like nail polish remover leaves an oily residue you must clean off with alcohol.

well, i havent try to clean my cooler base yet, but about the TIM, i'd applied to the heatpipes.. the results still the same with when i applied 100% to base surface area..

I found this article. It might help

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?opti...=1&limitstart=4

the last method is the best?

well i dunno man.actually i did something like this and i think its quite good. i start by placing some TIM on to the cooler base. then i use a credit card to evenly distribute it. then i put some more TIM onto the ihs. so far no prob for me

hi, i just installed the cpu cooler, at first i used rice grain method. The cpu temperature was worse than the stock heatsink (42 degree celcius idle on core). 2nd time, i use rice grain method but more, the cpu temperature did reduce until 35. Then i adjust the cooler from horizontal to vertical. Boom. the temperature decrease amazingly.

CPU=20 degree
full load 30 degree
Core= 22-27 degree
full load 35-40 degree

done in 24 degree room temp.

That's impossible for a processor to be cooler than the room temperature.
There must be something wrong with your temperature sensor.

i doubt it. i use other mobo also give me similiar result.

Well then, i'll just call the best minds and show that a processor can't be cooler than the room temperature.

Law of Thermodynamics disagrees with you. Energy In -> Energy Out.

Either your thermal diode on your processor is whack, the BIOS is whack or the reading software is whack.

Either way something is whack.

This post has been edited by empire23: May 6 2008, 09:58 PM

perhaps you can download coretemp and load it up, with a SS of that, it would clarify everything

wah seh.. againts the law of physic somemore ar..
lol.. Should i throw away my newly bought mobo? haha

---

Added on May 6, 2008, 10:05 pmwill try to do once i'm free la. thanks la everyone...

This post has been edited by tauevo: May 6 2008, 10:05 PM

No, you just have to accept that a processor will never run at a lower temperature unless you're using a cascade / phase change / dry ice or LN2.
Even watercooling can't cool a processor than the room temperature.

I'm using a high end watercooling kit on my Q6600 G0 [at stock speed] with my room cooled by a 2.5HP air conditioner set to run at 14°C that runs for 24 hours, my processor still runs at 28 degrees. If a watercooling kit can't cool a processor lower than the room temperature, it's impossible for an aircooling heatsink to do that.

By the way, my watercooling kit consits of a bowed D-TEK FuZion, Swiftech MCP655-B, Swiftech MCRES Micro & Cool-Trek DP1203.

This post has been edited by sHawTY: May 6 2008, 10:20 PM

I'm not sure, but i use a modified STORM G4 Rev 2, DDC Delrin Acetal Modded top, Coolabs Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, BIX2 with Quad Pushpull Papst 4412Ms and high flow chromed barbs and i have never seen temps like yours before, and yes, i used to run an OCed CQ6600. If the Xigmatek could really deliver 20C of temp min, i should have just saved my money and not watercooled my rig

Yeah, maybe you should check out the mobo, or at least flash it's BIOS to the latest rev.

aiyee.. actually i dun quite understand bout the water cooling kit thingy. as for me water cooling quite troublesome. sorry la no offense here . My casing is much more cooler than room temperature maybe my 1.8hp air condition straightly blow to the casing and i installed 4x8cm (having >30cfm) fans and 1x 12 cm (>80cfm)fan in the casing. Total up will be 10 fans including the cpu, psu in the casing. Still thinking of adding another 2x12cm (90cfm) fans. haha.. i dunno bout hard mod.

if u all look carefully in my cpu fan speed, u will notice tat i am not using the original fan from xigmatek.

p/s: pai sei la everyone, me newbie here.

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Added on May 6, 2008, 10:40 pmmy bios is updated. because this is new mobo released by giga dunno 2 months ago gua. the bios only got 1 update only. have u seen someone 18c temp with same cpu cooler? I noe is in LYN but i couldnt find the threat. I tot i can be advanced like him/she.


This post has been edited by tauevo: May 6 2008, 10:40 PM

You're missing the point.
There's zero possibility that you can cool a processor cooler than the room temperature using watercooling / aircooling. It's impossible.
It doesn't matter how many fans you're using, that doesn't make your processor goes cooler.

By the way, my 2.5HP airconditioner is set to run at 14°C 24 hours blows directly to the radiator. I only do this to test my watercooling kit. Because i can't sleep in my room if i were to do that kind of cooling 24/7/365.
I chucked in a temperature sensor in the watercooling tube and the temperature of the water coming out from the radiator after cooled by the fan and the airconditioner is 20°C, my processor still runs at 28°C.

If there's another guy getting an even lower temperature than yours, then that means he's getting the same problem as yours.

So, unless you're using a cascade / phase change / dry ice or LN2, there's no way a processor can run at a temperature that's even lower than the room temperature.

hi, i dun understand the things u mention bout cascade and etc.. dry ice i noe. FYI, i have 3 computers running my room. 2 desktop and 1 laptop. 2 desktops was built this year february. I had mentioned i swapped the cooler and it also giving almost the same result. Yesterday i did called up my friend who work with microsoft in USA, he told me tat is possible to get the temperature cooler than the room temperature either air cooling or water cooling. Room temperature may vary. You might get 20 degree at the point from direct air conditioned but a few metres away u might get 22 degree or more which the air conditioned doesnt cover the area. Maybe i am wrong with the room temperature, because the my clock is 1.5 metre above my cpu. So beneath the clock might getting 20 degree or lower but above that will be higher.

i think you are still being clueless. no matter how genius your supposedly "friend" at microsoft is, he still cant defy physics, which dictates that your damn processor core will never ever be cooler than your room temperature, because its impossible for air alone to dissipate so much heat to fully take out 100% of what the processor heatsink gives, and thats not counting the source of the heat which will be a lot hotter (the cores itself, not even the intel proc chip's heatsink)

also, what the hell does your friend in microsoft have ANYTHING to do with this? software and hardware is 2 different worlds. you might as well just make that friend of yours working in xigmatek, you might convince us more :/

off topic: shawty, you opened a pc shop already? damn awesome man, so young owning a shop already hehe. just started? i never knew until i just saw ur sig today. wheres ur shop? maybe can visit it

I just replace the AS5 with TX2, and applied the last method as shown by the website but the temperature still approximately same, 63-64'c during full load, 3.5GHz @ 1.32v. is the temperature normal for c2d @ 3.5ghz?

This post has been edited by gsan: May 7 2008, 12:30 PM

Kinda rude.

It is possible to get below ambient but need chill water/tec.

Find it rude?

well you can screw him back by posting a SS of these 2 programs

Coretemp 0.98.1
RealTemp 2.5

Now, go take the SS with the above 2 programs and everest

satisfaction guaranteed




it was referring to plain aircooling or plain water cooled, with NO ice or stuff in it + tec

This post has been edited by bryanyeo87: May 7 2008, 10:52 PM

ok here is another ss.





Then this taken when room temperature is 20.5 degree on my desk. 19.4 degree on my casing. happy now?

This post has been edited by tauevo: May 7 2008, 11:37 PM

Those softwares took the temperature readings from your motherboard temperature sensor, so if your motherboard temperature sensor is crippled, so as the results.

Again, if your room temperature is 20.5°C, how can your processor goes 19°C?

No matter how bad you want to prove this, you still can't defy the rules of physics.
You can't prove anything just using software temperature sensors.
Wanna prove the real temperature? Get a laser temperature sensor and shove it on your processor, from there we'll see either you can defy the rules of physics.

Also, one important note, i have a Q6600 G0 that has a very low VID, my room temperature is lower than yours, which is 18°C, i'm using watercooling, but the temperature of my Q6600 G0 is still 28°C.

@tauevo

ouh, ur referring to the CPU (without numbers one) temps is it all these while? @_@"

that one memang inaccurate, its usually 5~15c lower then core due to the nature of the DTS sensor

the one which really affects the CPU, is the DTS sensor on the core which would be CPU #1~#4

although its quite inaccurate sometimes, due to faulty being stuck (yeh i have one)

bro, i think u should stress test it longer. if my eyes serve me well, u only did a 1 min test then u screen shot it. i think its not long enough for ur proc to get heated up. btw, shawty got a point there. if ur room temp is 20.5c its quite impossible to get 19c on ur proc, unless u put some dry ice or something. anyways sensors accuracy is not 100% fyi. imo the least u need to add or minus 5-10c for accurate result but in ur case i think u need to add.

i like this cooler..even using 1.45Vcore and orthosing it..the temp reach only 55-57 C only

this question is for those with the xigmatek crossbow mounting kit. is the "double sided tape" part meant to be stuck to the underside of the mobo?

really nice cooler de..

Done installed this cooler in my rig... hehe


also done lapped the cooler base.. pretty ok la kan? not very perfect lah..
but i manage to get idle temp at 32/38`C for my OC E6600@3.2Ghz, and 39/45`C at 100% load. Using coretemp beta 0.99
theres improvement from my late hypertx..hehe



how its look on my p5n-e sli mobo...

for now im satisfied, thanx to any who sudjest this cooler, not to xpensive an not very bad on the performance...


*bought from bro prodigous

waa . . . nice lapping there, i also lapped mine but havent try yet. Its one of the best cooler around which is reasonable.

Thanx bro, really worth it lapped the cooler.. more heat dissipate n efficient.. next project: try to laping the proc.. hehehe

wah really nice lor cn c my teeth da..huhu..

hey thats a very nice finish u have there

mind to tell what sand paper grit u used all the way?

ya la tell me too..quite intrstd too lapping..hehe...

Actually im just follow the tip and step by step technique here on this forum,, but i don remind where the thread is,
but for u all guys info im using sand paper grit: 1st 800, 2nd 1500 and last for the shining use the 2000 grit... some places it is hard to find these grit value.. hope u guys can do it and xperience the temp drop about 4 or myb 8 celcius...

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Added on July 2, 2008, 11:35 pmAnd another thing i forgot to mention: do this lapping on a plain surface, such a wide glass and do it on a steady table.. secure the grit paper with a tape.. spill a little bit of water on grit paper and start ur dancing... hehe. U can either lapping in a circle o even in a straight line.. ur call. Do it untill u feel the resistent reduce.. after that, just repeat the step with another grit paper. But remember start lapping w the lowest value of the grit paper like 800 then 1500 and last 2000...
hope can help u guys..

This post has been edited by Mavrix: Jul 2 2008, 11:37 PM

Friendly reminder not to exccesively lap the cooler, start wit max 800/1000 grit, do not use 600, lap too much u can kiss ur cooler bb with its heatpipe punctured. Too smoothly lap, add a mix of soap n water, n put little by little onto sandpaper. Off topic ady la

wah thanks bro..cnt wait edi to lapped my bibi..huhu..hope cn shine as urs..how long it take time when ur lapped bro??..

I guess its depend how cocentrate u doin it bro.. hehe myb bout 2hrs..

The best time to lap is when u sitting in front tv or com, watch show . . . then u lap, not so boring . . . dont put pressure on cooler when lapping, just slide it across the sandpaper wit the cooler's weight only. 2hrs damn semangat. I only 1 hr.

1hrs? wau thats fast.. hehe.. anyway the result is better heat transfer of my cpu...now idle temp is at 30/35 for my OC E6600 @ 3.2Ghz.... Ok la kan?

haha, no patience . . . 1 day 1 hr . . . next day same also. Means like u 2hrs sry forgot 2 mention b4. I still havent try my cooler, this fri most probably.

ooo i see.. hehe

haha..thanks to both of u..really got different lor aftr lappng..cnt wait anymore..hee..

So hows is it? Done the lapping eh? Get positive result?

haha..u thnk i will do it nw ka..mayb weekend i will do it leh..wan to buy the sand paper 1st..

kindly let me know your result before and after lapping?maybe pictures of lapping process if ure kind enough

ok no prblm then..u cn pm mavrix aso he hav done it..i not sure my result will same as mavrix...