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Bigblock
post Aug 17 2008, 01:22 PM

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I am facing the same TB prob for my wira 1.6xli, and recommended shops near PJ?
viqq
post Aug 17 2008, 02:12 PM

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I heard this is a common problem among wira/satria owners.

I myself having throttle body problems too. The gear inside the throttle body broke and after changed still the same problem which is the RPM go up and down even though I didn't press the accelerator. So mechanic asked me to change throttle body. I got myself a 1.5 model for my 1.3 model which the mechanic said should be compatible. That throttle body didn't come with a gasket so the mechanic made 1 himself.

Ok so everything went well, the RPM doesn't go up and down anymore, but the engine will subsequently die in a sudden. No warning no anything, just die. Also after changing the throttle body so many problems jor.. Even my CHECK ENGINE lights are all gone. Stupid mechanic ar~~ More problems after changing throttle body.
the_catacombs
post Aug 17 2008, 02:31 PM

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QUOTE(viqq @ Aug 17 2008, 02:12 PM)
I heard this is a common problem among wira/satria owners.

I myself having throttle body problems too. The gear inside the throttle body broke and after changed still the same problem which is the RPM go up and down even though I didn't press the accelerator. So mechanic asked me to change throttle body. I got myself a 1.5 model for my 1.3 model which the mechanic said should be compatible. That throttle body didn't come with a gasket so the mechanic made 1 himself.

Ok so everything went well, the RPM doesn't go up and down anymore, but the engine will subsequently die in a sudden. No warning no anything, just die. Also after changing the throttle body so many problems jor.. Even my CHECK ENGINE lights are all gone. Stupid mechanic ar~~ More problems after changing throttle body.
*
that gasket didnt sell as separate unit in sparepart shop??... hmm.gif
sonic_darkknight
post Aug 17 2008, 04:29 PM

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my car had this kind of problem before, so what i did was go to kedai potong get myself a good TB with good condition isc motor, my car is 4g15 injection but i bought myself a 4g63 TB(RM250),throttle response increased significantly not to mention reduction in FC. but still after two years, the ISC melted again so since i can't upgrade to even bigger TB, i just went to workshop and installed an additional toyota ficd, it cost me just rm150 including labour and now the probelm is fully solved.
viqq
post Aug 17 2008, 08:02 PM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Aug 17 2008, 02:31 PM)
that gasket didnt sell as separate unit in sparepart shop??... hmm.gif
*
I got the throttle body from distrobutor in my hometown. No gasket included.. I was too rush when I bought the throttle body that I forgot to check whether there's gasket included or even sold seperately. The price where I bought the throttle body was rm300+ only whereas the mechanic wanted to sell to me for RM500+. The mechanic told me he can make it himself then I didn't bother to buy it.

But thinking thoroughly, I can already get a 2nd hand stock Wira 1.5 engine with near the same amount of money. (RM500 for Wira stock 1.5 engine without installation) rclxub.gif
the_catacombs
post Aug 18 2008, 02:40 AM

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QUOTE(sonic_darkknight @ Aug 17 2008, 04:29 PM)
my car had this kind of problem before, so what i did was go to kedai potong get myself a good TB with good condition isc motor, my car is 4g15 injection but i bought myself a 4g63 TB(RM250),throttle response increased significantly not to mention reduction in FC. but still after two years, the ISC melted again so since i can't upgrade to even bigger TB, i just went to workshop and installed an additional toyota ficd, it cost me just rm150 including labour and now the probelm is fully solved.
*
rm150 jz for the toyota ficd??... whoa.... last time i bought from halfcut shop for rm50 only... diy install, free.... tongue.gif tongue.gif

QUOTE(viqq @ Aug 17 2008, 08:02 PM)
I got the throttle body from distrobutor in my hometown. No gasket included.. I was too rush when I bought the throttle body that I forgot to check whether there's gasket included or even sold seperately. The price where I bought the throttle body was rm300+ only whereas the mechanic wanted to sell to me for RM500+. The mechanic told me he can make it himself then I didn't bother to buy it.

But thinking thoroughly, I can already get a 2nd hand stock Wira 1.5 engine with near the same amount of money. (RM500 for Wira stock 1.5 engine without installation)  rclxub.gif
*
now cannot get adi lor... 4g15 enjin lantai cost more than rm1k now... rclxub.gif
aliftaufiq
post Aug 18 2008, 09:00 AM

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@ sonic-U've been con la bro..FICD paling mahal pun only cost RM 50 + RM 30 for installation biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by aliftaufiq: Aug 18 2008, 09:01 AM
shinjite
post Aug 18 2008, 10:01 AM

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Mine during cold start got problems 1, rpm 1.5k, then when u drive a bit for round 10 minutes
The rpm will go up and down up and down. Need to off engine and reignite back then drop to normal 900rpm idle. I already installed FICD still like that >_>
MobyDick
post Aug 18 2008, 11:00 AM

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If want to use Toyota FICD than you need to do some mods within your current throttle plastic gears. That alone would recommend to install the drill & tap one directly to the main throttle chamber so as it's distributed to all cyclinders without any possible air-leaks, no cars which have been installed with this current method that I've known of ever had a recurrent of this problem. But some will want to maintain without mods & this is what has been done for its maintainence;

remove throttle-body magnet & do a service every 10K km, by cleaning with non-solvent base cleaners, water base ones & compressed air. Do not use anything like petrol or any alcohol base as it will damage the plastic components. After that apply the cleanest & best water base grease/lubricant that money can buy no other than 'KY' which can be obtain from pharmacy. Seal the item again with silicone liquid gasket & it'll perform as per new until the next service interval. So far so good for my mates.

the_catacombs
post Aug 18 2008, 01:41 PM

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user posted image
Klemann C
post Aug 19 2008, 04:23 PM

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hi.....can anyone recommend me a workshop which does provide addon FICD thing?? with reasonable price? notworthy.gif
i wana fix my car, add FICD on throttle body....now it gettin worsen....car moving also can stalled....serious
somewhere near old klang road or within kl area?

i went to proton authorised service centre, they dun provide service to tb......only change to whole set brand new 1!!! that fella talk wit lcly la.... mad.gif
anyone got recommendation,pls PM me detail....need to fix it ASAP....everyday need to use that car icon_question.gif
thanks in advance!!
shinjite
post Aug 19 2008, 05:09 PM

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Thats what u get if u go authorised SC, they will tell u TB rosak, change enw 1, costs a bomb

Just go normal workshop and tell them u wanna install FICD, kao tim
kucingfight
post Aug 19 2008, 05:12 PM

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changed my Wira 1.6A XLI throttle body after it died of 8yrs of usage.

Costs me rm170 like tat
Klemann C
post Aug 19 2008, 05:17 PM

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ok....but i did asked several workshop.....they said no wor.....even ask them juz service also "like force them to take poison pill" doh.gif
btw, which step more recommended?

1) juz service & clean TB?
or
2) straightaway add FICD on it?

as i did mentioned b4,da throttle body ISC cable there is covered with dirty dark color oil...
1 of the forummer said, that sign showed TB gonna spoilt wink.gif
Mediocre2
post Aug 18 2010, 09:20 PM

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hmm tumpang guys, my tb now starting from cold start would be 900, then after running for like 10 mins it will be 1.4k or sometimes 1.5k. it didnt drop and increase again its like constantly 1.5k already >< why is it like that?
the_catacombs
post Aug 19 2010, 12:35 AM

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dat day i went my local sparepart shop enquire about ISC repair kit... he said now they came up with an easier solution...

user posted image

user posted image

it bolts directly to the throttle body, replacing this unit...

user posted image

user posted image

the ISC socket still plugs in, but with removal of coolant lines inside the throttle body... it works the same with less damage coz heated coolant no longer flows into the throttle body.... but somehow, the thing is still made of plastic and will melt, as what often happens to faulty throttle bodies... this stuff cost rm150, can easily diy change, if u know how to remove the throttle body urself....

user posted image

this is what conventional ISC repair kit consist of... plastic gears inside the ISC... if the bottom black plastic thing melts, changing this alone wont help...




or else, jz custom a metal/aluminum plate and block the whole thing off and use FICD to control ur a/c idle rpm...

user posted image
skyther
post Aug 19 2010, 01:21 AM

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Allright, I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've worked on cars enough to know that some of the solutions offered here will do your car more harm than good.

That "FICD" posted above is a Vacuum Switched Valve (VSV) that opens up whenever +12V is applied to it. VSVs are used for EVAP and EGR control, *NOT* for idle control. All it does in this instance create an air bypass from your intake straight into the manifold. Wiring it up to your A/C compressor will cause your idle to go up to 1.5k - 2k RPM. There is no form of idle "control" here. In EFI engines, this will kill your fuel consumption and cause other issues like your car jerking/surging forward when you release your brake pedal, or even cause shifting issues if you have an auto transmission. This is because your ECU is no longer able to properly control the idle and will think you have a vacuum leak.I know some people are going to flame me for this, saying there are no issues with this setup, but trust me, this would cost manufacturers at most $5 to implement, and if it were this simple they would. Car manufacturers know more than you about their own engines. This "FICD" is not intended to supplement or replace your engine's idle control method. If your car wasn't designed with one, you shouldn't be using it.

user posted image

^ This is the device that Toyota uses to control idle. It's called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. It contains a stepper motor that is controlled by the ECU to vary the amount of air going into the engine to control idle. If you turn your A/C on, your ECU tells the IAC to open a little more to increase idle to compensate. Newer cars that have drive-by-wire/electronic throttle control may not have this as the ECU controls the idle by directly adjusting the throttle valve. This is also partially the reason why certain D-B-W cars accelerate very suddenly with slight movement of the throttle pedal - because the throttle butterfly is already partially open.

If you have an idle problem, fix the cause at the source.

QUOTE
Mine during cold start got problems 1, rpm 1.5k, then when u drive a bit for round 10 minutes
The rpm will go up and down up and down. Need to off engine and reignite back then drop to normal 900rpm idle


Fluctuating idle can be caused by a plethora of problems from a dirty throttle body/IAC to electrical issues. I have a feeling you may have electrical issues on yours.

Most cars, when first started up, will idle slightly higher than normal for several minutes to warm the engine up. This is needed mainly to lower emissions, but also because every modern engine is designed with an optimum operating temperature range. Catalytic converters also require warming up to work efficiently, as does your engine oil as it's viscosity lowers as it warms up.

If your idle keeps fluctuating, you could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I would also check the AFM/MAF/MAP (whatever you have on your car - all does the same job, measure air volume) and the oxygen sensor (on your exhaust manifold/header pipe) in case one of them is causing your car to run in open loop. It can also be something as simple as a dirty throttle body to something nasty like a faulty ECU. I'd get the car checked by a mechanic who knows what he's doing.

QUOTE
Seal the item again with silicone liquid gasket


For the love of God, do NOT seal your throttle body with silicone/RTV/FIPG, they are to be used as gaskets in oil pans and valve covers where hot oil is an issue, NOT throttle bodies. It is a b*tch to remove; your mechanic will hate you and will scratch the hell out of your throttle body trying to clean it all off.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Throttle bodies / IACs / intake pipes will get dirty, this is normal. Your engine burns fuel, and carbon is a by product. This is also why your oil goes black, it's normal. Throttle bodies and IACs *should* be cleaned regularly, though most mechanics will not look at it until there is an issue with the car. It can be time consuming as to clean it properly requires removal of the TB, intake hose, disconnecting all the cables and hoses, etc etc. Some TBs also have coolant bypasses in them, and you need to top up the coolant after reinstalling the TB.

If your issue is caused by a dirty TB/IAC, clean it. Do not install the "FICD". If you're feeling poor, do it yourself. All you need is carby cleaner, a socket and ratchet set, a few old rags/t-shirts and patience. Alternatively if you're lazy, buy yourself a bottle of Seafoam and run it through a vacuum hose.
joponet
post Aug 19 2010, 08:19 AM

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QUOTE(skyther @ Aug 19 2010, 01:21 AM)
Allright, I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've worked on cars enough to know that some of the solutions offered here will do your car more harm than good.

That "FICD" posted above is a Vacuum Switched Valve (VSV) that opens up whenever +12V is applied to it. VSVs are used for EVAP and EGR control, *NOT* for idle control. All it does in this instance create an air bypass from your intake straight into the manifold. Wiring it up to your A/C compressor will cause your idle to go up to 1.5k - 2k RPM. There is no form of idle "control" here. In EFI engines, this will kill your fuel consumption and cause other issues like your car jerking/surging forward when you release your brake pedal, or even cause shifting issues if you have an auto transmission. This is because your ECU is no longer able to properly control the idle and will think you have a vacuum leak.I know some people are going to flame me for this, saying there are no issues with this setup, but trust me, this would cost manufacturers at most $5 to implement, and if it were this simple they would. Car manufacturers know more than you about their own engines. This "FICD" is not intended to supplement or replace your engine's idle control method. If your car wasn't designed with one, you shouldn't be using it.

user posted image

^ This is the device that Toyota uses to control idle. It's called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. It contains a stepper motor that is controlled by the ECU to vary the amount of air going into the engine to control idle. If you turn your A/C on, your ECU tells the IAC to open a little more to increase idle to compensate. Newer cars that have drive-by-wire/electronic throttle control may not have this as the ECU controls the idle by directly adjusting the throttle valve. This is also partially the reason why certain D-B-W cars accelerate very suddenly with slight movement of the throttle pedal - because the throttle butterfly is already partially open.

If you have an idle problem, fix the cause at the source.
Fluctuating idle can be caused by a plethora of problems from a dirty throttle body/IAC to electrical issues. I have a feeling you may have electrical issues on yours.

Most cars, when first started up, will idle slightly higher than normal for several minutes to warm the engine up. This is needed mainly to lower emissions, but also because every modern engine is designed with an optimum operating temperature range. Catalytic converters also require warming up to work efficiently, as does your engine oil as it's viscosity lowers as it warms up.

If your idle keeps fluctuating, you could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I would also check the AFM/MAF/MAP (whatever you have on your car - all does the same job, measure air volume) and the oxygen sensor (on your exhaust manifold/header pipe) in case one of them is causing your car to run in open loop. It can also be something as simple as a dirty throttle body to something nasty like a faulty ECU. I'd get the car checked by a mechanic who knows what he's doing.
For the love of God, do NOT seal your throttle body with silicone/RTV/FIPG, they are to be used as gaskets in oil pans and valve covers where hot oil is an issue, NOT throttle bodies. It is a b*tch to remove; your mechanic will hate you and will scratch the hell out of your throttle body trying to clean it all off.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Throttle bodies / IACs / intake pipes will get dirty, this is normal. Your engine burns fuel, and carbon is a by product. This is also why your oil goes black, it's normal. Throttle bodies and IACs *should* be cleaned regularly, though most mechanics will not look at it until there is an issue with the car. It can be time consuming as to clean it properly requires removal of the TB, intake hose, disconnecting all the cables and hoses, etc etc. Some TBs also have coolant bypasses in them, and you need to top up the coolant after reinstalling the TB.

If your issue is caused by a dirty TB/IAC, clean it. Do not install the "FICD". If you're feeling poor, do it yourself. All you need is carby cleaner, a socket and ratchet set, a few old rags/t-shirts and patience. Alternatively if you're lazy, buy yourself a bottle of Seafoam and run it through a vacuum hose.
*
I totally agree with skyther. thats what happens to my everyday used wira 1.6(A) year 2000. I've installed the FICD, but new problems occured like you mentioned it above... jerking, fuel consumption, the rpm... all gone mad already. Plan to pull off the FICD and start find new TB. My mecha said, the plastic below the TB already melting. I've service it by change the servo kit... but same problems still occured.

hleb24
post Aug 25 2010, 10:34 AM

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Added on August 25, 2010, 10:37 amMine also have the same problem. Rpm will fluctuate when idle and when press fuel pedal i could feel the noise something like sysss sound. What is this actually??
Went to Toyota SC and they scanned, found error at ISC/IAC valve and suggest to change ISC. Very costly.RM1644. sad.gif

They also said if i'm not change maybe it could effect ECU. Is it true? Please help!

Other thing is my airbag and engine check light doesn't function at all. They said it could be short circuit because of 'cara tukar bateri salah.'

Sorry for my English.

This post has been edited by hleb24: Aug 25 2010, 12:13 PM
yeehau86
post Aug 25 2010, 10:54 AM

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it is not ICU (ICU is Hospital term), the correct is ECU. Perhaps you can get a used throttle body at half cut shop at few hundreds.

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