I got cheaper bro - RM329 excluding voucher. if use voucher might be cheaper

MSI Pro MP251 E2 24.5inch FHD 120Hz Flat Cye Care Monitor

this one dont have DP port right? compared to TS monitor

once u go more then 120hz screen, anything 60hz feels laggy.

it is, i'll sell this monitor when i get my monitor back, already have buyer lel

honestly 120hz also feels slow for me, already used to 240hz heh
but 60hz is really really tiring to use lol

dont fool urself

ur cheap ass monitor arent going to do well in HDR at all

minimum nit require for the most basic HDR is 400

urs is only 300

IPS backlit super lapsap in HDR. Waste money

But its okay. U havent tested heavenly OLED yet so u didnt know what u missed.

let me add ur monitor doesnt even hv VRR

so u will get screen-tearing whn ur weak 6600 play games and cant reach 120hz

I got benq xr3501 144hz, 2 x Asus ROG Swift PG278QR 165hz and Asus VG249Q 144hz from apartment trash dump, all in good working condition

hdr is absolutely useless without oled and in future micro led it needs 600-2000 nits to show the color range dont let xiaomi bamboozle. but you still untung on the high refresh rate.
personally a resolution guy i mean misses av also 60fps max so i managed get a 4k monitor for 760

This post has been edited by GHBZDK: May 24 2025, 01:03 PM

Dayum looking for new monitor also

Seems all the specs meet what I need

true2

many people don't understand what proper HDR actually means. this is because marketing by these brands has been very deceitful to avg people

HDR means:
- high peak brightness. high end OLED TVs now hit >1500 nits at 2% and 10% window. mid-end OLED TVs also easily >1000 nits around that window percentage.
- high contrast ratio. this means when black, it is true black. ur RM300 IPS display has a backlight that is not true black, resulting in near shit contrast ratio (black becomes dim grey). when they rate 1500:1, it's usually rated in the most optimal brightness at 0%-10% brightness to reach that figure (because IPS backlight will be much dimmer). when set >20% brightness, it's where its shittiness happens (usually drops down to 1000:1 or lower).
- high DCI-P3 & rec.2020 color gamut coverage (much wider than sRGB). true HDR display covers >95% DCI-P3 and >75% rec.2020
- 10-bit color depth or more. msi pro mp251 e2 is only 8-bit (6-bit + FRC some more)

most important ones are high peak brightness and high contrast ratio. any1 of these missing, means instant fake HDR. many HDR400 IPS monitors are fake HDR as well. usually they put "HDR ready", because it only means it can receive HDR input, but it will fail to produce real HDR output
to get true HDR, get OLED TVs, OLED monitors or mini-LED TVs with FALD. mini-LED monitors in malaysia market is kong

then u must be suffering watch any movie, they all only 24 FPS haha

not even 1440p but it's your money ts

watching no need to deal with input lag and they have natural camera motion blur ma

Inb4 tv mana tv become monitor mana monitor

Windows 11 display information.

just bcs it can

doesnt mean it will do well

but u r welcome to continue to fool urself

i just say it's HDR ready.

did i say it will do well?

CRT > All