I see

sent my bike for VC and ECU tuning remap, now it runs without the O2 lambda sensors. without it has pros and cons, but now I'm liking it

quicker throttle response (it's a ride by cable, not the modern ride by wire) and resolved some torque dip

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 3 2024, 12:37 PM

sent my scooter for suspension treatment - front cartridge kit and rear YSS shocks

depends on budget...

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 21 2024, 06:39 PM

chain lube gunk can remove with some kerosene, give it some time to soak, use something to soak it and then dislodge...

ok kut
I would look into Lithium batteries

check the rollers if it is loose in the links, the shiny rollers that contacts the sprockets
there are cases where the chains last longer without cleaning, and my experience tells me chains that got cleaned, will kink sooner

the chain should be dry and warm when applying the lube, which makes it more tedious if you want to clean it and then apply lubes - some ppl will clean the chain, then ride the bike a bit to warm the chain before lubing it

see my reply above, there are ppl who never lube their chain their whole life
my riding circle got riders like this

you'd have to touch it, to see if it's loose in the links

I feel the chain that gets used regularly last longer - we should track the chain life by both mileage and time

hydrocarbon (diesel, kerosene etc) to clean chain, including WD40 and a lot of myths out there, my only thought is what happens when those liquids get pass the seals (o-ring, x-ring etc) into the chain lube - personally, I wouldn't want any of those as a high pressure lubricant inside my chain

now I'm using maxima chain lube, there are two types, I'm using the 'clean' one... another type is 'messy'

I do get a lot of wet rides, and the chain has visible rust spots often times, which is not good. I do give the bike a quick rinse after most rides, to remove bug splats and quick inspection before parking it - which was how I found out I have a waterpump leak at the moment

I also check my sprocket marks, to get a rough idea if I should change it or maybe tighten the chain slack

my last chain + sprockets = Nov 2021, ~15k km so far and starting to kink, and rollers are loose
I haven't done chain length measurement, but I'm pretty sure it's close to wear out liao

there's more to it, I think... you're probably a smooth input rider than me or jaycee1

on top of that, yours is a T-plane crank triple, while his are a single or big twin each with ~400cc per barrel, plus the driveline slack/lash between the bikes, I'm not surprise the chain life varies by 50% from one bike to another

yeah...

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 31 2024, 10:28 AM

just buy

update on waterpump leak:
- easy to remove, 2 bolts, hoses, and pull the entire unit off the bike
- 2 more bolts, remove the front housing to expose the impeller unit
- detach the impeller circlip, guide pin and washer
- remove the impeller unit
- problem found: mechanical seal glue degraded causing seal joint to mechanical seal body detached
- use Threebond black RTV No.5 to reconstruct the seal unit
- reassemble whole waterpump unit, leave to cure for 24 hours



This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 15 2024, 10:22 AM

update on scooter stator failure:
- continuity test on stator shows short to ground... so I suspect the stator already burn and touching the coil body and then grounded to the bike, causing weak charging (average 12.5V, max 13.8V after hours of riding)
- voltmeter on 3 phase stator output is 42VAC unloaded (coil is output fine when not grounded)
- when connected to rectifier, loaded output is 5VAC (too low) and rectifier output is 7VDC up to 12.8VDC (too low)
- surveryed around, and found compatible stator

it seems my scooter shares stator coil with Honda CBR929RR
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/G89.html

should I order one from shopee?

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 15 2024, 10:27 AM

aluminium radiator?
can look for 2 things:
- low temperature solder weld
- metal putty epoxy (dual compound type)



most important thing to do is preparing the surface before you join, make sure it is very very clean
like either you use metal brush to scrub it clean, then use alcohol to clean it first

or, you can practice the welding on other scrap aluminum first

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 15 2024, 10:44 AM

yeah, I know a few
I prefer to have a spare, so just open up the stator cover, swap, and reassemble
instead of take out, wait a few days to recoil, then reassemble

I ordered a shopee CBR929RR and an eBay genuine used... we'll see

interested to know how the bike feels with the boxes mounted that high up

good to know, safer than some rubber strap over a loose luggage then

just fyi, shopee link doesn't work unless I sign in

ER6 got windshield? is it like a small piece or a big piece? attached to headlamp or handlebar one?
moped go 150+ with open face have to tunduk, or angle the helmet downwards to let the visor do the work

yeah, my guess was the windshield was attached to handlebar to explain the differences, I reckon is a big windscreen, too
get a bracket, and look for a way to install it to the chassis instead