So ah... unker CNY rage spend got mai enjine piggybacked and unker hid the module somewhere under the dashboard but unker sked tertekan the white mode button while squeezing it around. Unker dgn soalan bodoh lagi:

1. So pertanyaan khas utk mrk yg ada pakai KKT ni, usually got 2 maps according to the workshop, but unker only got 1 cause tamau backfire preng prong preng prong, what unker have seen from checking online vids is the default mode appears to be steady state flashing oren, and backfire is double flash?

So what are the behavior if accidentally tertekan white button if only got 1 map inside? Will it ignore? As unker know the wiring guy copied the stock/default specs into both maps before the tuner, hence they should both have started at 0 interception kot... so if unker tertekan also is prob just risking swapping to stock setting kot? Baru hari ni terkena, workshop tak buka weekend lel.

2. Anyway, the dyno pic is stuck in unker other phone, when got time to upload it baru share la... but unker ada risau ckit they increase AFR at the upper range goes up 15+ at 4500rpm, before falling back to 12.5 again near redline. Sked leh if engine pong klu stay too long at that 4500? Selamat ke mcm ni? Generally the only time unker ever rev beyond 3500 rpm is to smoke other tin milos at traffic light GT. The nett gain was a good 3-4HP across the entire powerband on a heartbreaker Dyno Dynamics, so unker heppi la.

3. Does wheel dyno / light wheels skew the dyno graph? Unker see the low end HP/torque is way higher and flat compared to the known torque curve of the engine. After tune curve is raised nearly entirely, it follow the engine character - peak torque was recorded from 2-4k rpm sumwhere, but unker know this is impossible for unker engine since its well a NA. What made it even weirder was constant falloff despite engine stock design peaking at 4500 rpm (136Nm --loss on wheels ++light wheels) - it falls smoothly from 4000 to redline. Theres a big torque jump stock and tuned at 1900 rpm (dyno recorded this as peak due to the high hp against very low rpm), tuner said likely is light wheel effect, but he said it should be accurate representation of the on-the-road as well. Prob free mini turbo for N/A with light wheels? LEL

UPDATE: got the HP/AFR one up. The torque curvfe pic haram jadah thx to lousy camera, kena blur habis niama. I had to rebuilkd it by reversing the HP reading, but its pretty similar la. 4th gear pull.



The ori (true stock) engine curve added adjusted for drivetrain loss 15% in yellow. The predicted falloff is far greater on the dyno than on the engine which unekr kinda felt using the lightweight wheels at speed. but the falloff is mcm so kesian unker formula salah ke lol..

This post has been edited by Dezs: Feb 16 2022, 08:56 AM

no ideas kkt.
u pakai which gear during measure

Pretty sure it was 4th.. the redline was sumwhere 160+

Post pic of your dyno graph. Also what engine and mods. Using 4th gear?

actually ur concern is white button only rite. find the instruction PDF online to get answered

Tin milo 1.5 shd be 3sz-ve? Exhaust and intake drop in apart from minyak premium. Small things like iridiums and new mounts shouldnt affect much. 4th gear since it hit red around 160 there. Pics updated in opening post

The funny thing is.. verywher got bideo preng pong preng pong... fukkin NO user manual. Nvm asked the woksop dy. They claim is safe if not extended revving all day, if temp naik let engine rest (but if clyinder head expldoed before temp naik how?). Well isn't that applicable for every haram jadah tune as well? lol.. Unker dun mind losing top end power for far safer temps since 14.7 ppl say is dangerous at high rev? entah la..

This post has been edited by Dezs: Feb 16 2022, 08:52 AM

goods updates bros

He wot your car at 15-16 afr.. if me, i would get a retune and drive conservatively for now..

Generally, 15-16 afr ok for cruising. There are reasons and theories for this, you can research yourself.

Wot should try maintain around 13-14 for na cars. My tuners tuned my previous nissan sr20ve 20v (compression ration at 11:1) around 13.2 - 13.5 during wot. Gained 10% across the range, peaking at 225hp. Factory spec is 204hp.

This is the thing ah.. even tatau tune also would generally know 12.5 is the safe WOT for NA's, the thing now is that at that kind of revs a the heat would build up far more rapidly than coolant can pick off i assume and ff things up? I am also a bit concerned on the higher loads throughout the range, but am scheduling to refresh the engine within a year or 2.

Really no point to change much at 5000 rpm for just a bit more HP that would hardly ever be used. Unker also pretty sure the dude wasn't really fine tuning the cells much cause he finished it in like 40 mins, entah ignition timing just spam random ++ pun entah tatau. Now trying to hunt for bootleg KKT writer to see what he actually set in there. Unker ask about engine knock also they did not give a proper answer - but pretty sure it was equivalent to sendiri settle kek, cause even if ECU retard timing on knock, it will still advance by the piggyback rate ba.. but technically still a nett retardation?

Estimating original engine the nett gain mods and tune is somewhere 10% as expected of a N/A I guess, exhaust has been shunted a bit to silence the beng so there was prob some loss somewhere in between. I wanna see the diff against stock wheels, but too damn lazy to load them up and pay just to roll em zzz.

Which shop u went for the tune? Got their fb? Dangerous tuning... Or he knows his afr sensors not valibrated and offset by 2-3..

Workshop in Muar - RS dyno & tune (not same as the KL one - he tarak stock when contacted earlier) - coz they open during the break and got promo, a friend suggested, reviews were ok and welp excuse to roadtrip,. The dudes seemed well versed la wiring was neat and feller quite meticulous on sensor checks before moving ahead, unker pretend bodo ask stupid question din get bs la.

There was some complaints from the tuner on the sensor readings since its butt plug was off a few times. Lepas habis he ran a few more rounds on dyno, then unker bawa pusing, balik dia sudah mia. Owner say they always kasi conservative one, but bukan dia tune ma, the macais meanwhile were busy on the workshop so once they setup they were off to the other side, so no opportunity to ask much on the tune. But from what unker see the stock one seems right being 12.5? Unless they actually go lower? 11 and 10 mcm is turbo range already kan.. But the low RPM readings are way too learn at 16+ if asking for power no??

Unker also also curious on the transient load states since those are not captured on the pull. Compact32 lists features for that la, they recommend vs tiny for smoother map. Tengok2 the wiring mcm only got fuel rail, 4 cylinders, and throttle nia. My OBD reader can't pull AFR from the ecu, but prob ill be trying to pick it from fuel flow reading and work backwards kot.

Mebbe better get opinion from another dyno here since its a long ride down - want to see what it turns up on a dynojet also. Unker pretty sure it wasn't that fine tuned esp for the ignition advance, but well he say NA is straight forward quite fast so diam dulu je la.

This post has been edited by Dezs: Feb 16 2022, 05:12 PM

no afr kah. macam got different name. let i research a bits masa pulanged

Turbo AFR is also around 12. Unless its big turbo or super high flow high boost then you go lower for safety. Wideband aren't accurate as well. the faster the flow the least accurate they become similar to narrow bands. that is why most tuner anticipate a delay. usually when they advance the timing, its more towards the higher rev. while on lower revs, there's a slight degree of retard to give a stronger pickup pull. as for whether there's knock, your ecu should be able to know, then retard or advance the timing accordingly. the subject of knocking is very dependent on temp, fuel you use and duty cycle of fuel its injecting.

my recommendation is get another dyno shop to do a pull data while logging the afr as well as the knock. then you will know if the tuning is ok or not.

after upload nanti view
o2 sensor value

Maibi tarak, unker baru confirm is narrowband O2 sensor, so even the ecu tatau KEK. That means its running pretty much on buku sifir as long as its not in closed loop. Actually explains a lot cause unker always wonder there's a certain threshold when the engine starts to behave differently when accelerating esp on a slow/smooth pedal push alongside a higher efficiency acceleration vs tetiba start makan more minyak on pijak.

Hmm... so in this case at redline 12.5 should be normal as expected and going slightly higher is prob not detrimental? My concern is the increase to 15-16 at 5000rpm which doesn't make much logic. However, another birdie kinda confirmed this saying the stock maibi of these era had too lean low rpm and too rich high rpm mebbe for reliability concerns. It does match the pattern/maps of other maibi retunes, the big question is how much is too much? Unker plan to visit anoither shop mmg to have them verify if the timings were precisely tuned or just spammed across the cells. Unker saw the AFR adjustment had quite a lot of runs, but after that then they should run to timing, but hardly spent much time there.

This post has been edited by Dezs: Feb 16 2022, 09:10 PM

o2 tu narrowband ke wideband? Anyway should also display log openloop and closeloop status. From the first look i can say your kereta jimat minyak hahaha

if you're not boosting or running high comp lean or melt piston is not too much of a concern. you can check via the spark plug condition. that's the best indication. NA will always run lean because they don't knock as much as turbo and superchargers.

Yee narrowband as suspected, no point to run wideband on tin milo la.. It is a jimat minyak car for sure since the lightweight wheels went in - but it seems to have distorted the output on the wheels la, so unker think switching to stock might show a very different curve. The low TQ is way too high for the NA setup.

no lah. quite normal. if you retard the timing correctly the pick up torque is quick esp for maibi. meaning you fire the piston when its accelerating downwards at low rev, pushing along side with the momentum of the piston. most stock engine don't provide such performance due to lowering down on fuel, emission regulation as well as linearity in driving dynamics. older people have trouble controlling pedal so they need to smooth out the engine output.

Ye ke, but the pattern is so much different from the stock engine - i mean the tune pushed everything up but follow pattern ma, so something is skewing the low end TQ to the point that its losing torque even when the engine is still building up at the flywheel based on its stock behavior (losses at speed? towards redline the wheels were going like 120-160kph). Either that or actual engine output translate differently at the wheels since they are sort of "spooling" torque from the engine instead of being measured on the stick directly (i.e. factory engine)?

This post has been edited by Dezs: Feb 16 2022, 09:25 PM