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 Retarded KKT Tiny/Compact32 Question, Unker Sohai Max liao

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Vervain
post Feb 16 2022, 07:41 PM

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Turbo AFR is also around 12. Unless its big turbo or super high flow high boost then you go lower for safety. Wideband aren't accurate as well. the faster the flow the least accurate they become similar to narrow bands. that is why most tuner anticipate a delay. usually when they advance the timing, its more towards the higher rev. while on lower revs, there's a slight degree of retard to give a stronger pickup pull. as for whether there's knock, your ecu should be able to know, then retard or advance the timing accordingly. the subject of knocking is very dependent on temp, fuel you use and duty cycle of fuel its injecting.

my recommendation is get another dyno shop to do a pull data while logging the afr as well as the knock. then you will know if the tuning is ok or not.
Vervain
post Feb 16 2022, 09:09 PM

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o2 tu narrowband ke wideband? Anyway should also display log openloop and closeloop status. From the first look i can say your kereta jimat minyak hahaha
Vervain
post Feb 16 2022, 09:12 PM

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QUOTE(Dezs @ Feb 16 2022, 09:08 PM)
Maibi tarak, unker baru confirm is narrowband O2 sensor, so even the ecu tatau KEK. That means its running pretty much on buku sifir as long as its not in closed loop. Actually explains a lot cause unker always wonder there's a certain threshold when the engine starts to behave differently when accelerating esp on a slow/smooth pedal push alongside a higher efficiency acceleration vs tetiba start makan more minyak on pijak.
Hmm... so in this case at redline 12.5 should be normal as expected and going slightly higher is prob not detrimental? My concern is the increase to 15-16 at 5000rpm which doesn't make much logic. However, another birdie kinda confirmed this saying the stock maibi of these era had too lean low rpm and too rich high rpm mebbe for reliability concerns. It does match the pattern/maps of other maibi retunes, the big question is how much is too much? Unker plan to visit anoither shop mmg to have them verify if the timings were precisely tuned or just spammed across the cells. Unker saw the AFR adjustment had quite a lot of runs, but after that then they should run to timing, but hardly spent much time there.
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if you're not boosting or running high comp lean or melt piston is not too much of a concern. you can check via the spark plug condition. that's the best indication. NA will always run lean because they don't knock as much as turbo and superchargers.
Vervain
post Feb 16 2022, 09:15 PM

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QUOTE(Dezs @ Feb 16 2022, 09:12 PM)
Yee narrowband as suspected, no point to run wideband on tin milo la.. It is a jimat minyak car for sure since the lightweight wheels went in - but it seems to have distorted the output on the wheels la, so unker think switching to stock might show a very different curve. The low TQ is way too high for the NA setup.
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no lah. quite normal. if you retard the timing correctly the pick up torque is quick esp for maibi. meaning you fire the piston when its accelerating downwards at low rev, pushing along side with the momentum of the piston. most stock engine don't provide such performance due to lowering down on fuel, emission regulation as well as linearity in driving dynamics. older people have trouble controlling pedal so they need to smooth out the engine output.
Vervain
post Feb 16 2022, 09:37 PM

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check on where the WOT happens. torque spike can be generated by revving the engine with the clutch lifted then dropped immediately where the dyno registers the torque spike. 2 patterns the same as stock just higher, that's normal. if you put more fuel more power. this is for WOT case. torque tends to peak around 3-4k rpm then dwindles down rapidly while hp increases. However for small engines with long stroke, the torque may come earlier. longer stroke engines tend to have higher torque lower hp. while shorter strokes high hp but low torque.

ps. don't worry too much. NA je. else you get the dyno shop to help you hear for knocks hehe.
Vervain
post Feb 20 2022, 03:27 AM

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the biggest problem with piggyback is, native ECU will still do adaptation. even when you've tuned nice nice over time some ecu will attempt to do their own correction. risk of lari map after 1 week.
Vervain
post Feb 21 2022, 02:36 AM

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QUOTE(Dezs @ Feb 20 2022, 09:06 AM)
Like dafuq? suka2 drop packet meh? Ingatkan the piggyback intercepts the wires going between ignition, fuel must go through it right? So if the processor sudah overload then it just kasi bypass? I did check the wiring la, without the bypass plug to connect the wires, ignition tak sampai engine, and prob fuel feed too and ecu went rage.

So what happens then? Engine get one set instruction from boss wife normally then tiba2 boss masuk and the work fakkap? Welp, kena tunggu masa pigi tarik round 2 bah - so far engine sound overall did not increase apart from that sparkly signature la. Going to compare against stock ecu map using the bypass later this week.
Hmm prob depends on how the thing is wired up? The more unker find out about my engine, the more simplistic its mechanism seems to be, prob cause is tin milo - atm i am logging reads on the timing advance (heck i actually cant tell if its VVT timing adv or ignition kek, cause no other timing reads coming out of obd) seems to be responding as per usual, fuel/AFR wise it does seem to still correspond to the map captured on the dyno.

I am spending more fuel accelerating now at low revs (but nett rev time prob less with same coasting), the mid revs actually compensates since it supposedly produces more hamsters for similar AFR. Closed loop is still active based on the readings too, so I'm not sure how piggyback manipulates that mode, or it just gives the same amount of fuel/advance based on the command issued vs throttle? Unker am curious too the ECU so easy to cheat it dunno its being taken for a ride meh? won't the engine sensors/fuel tell a diff story then cause him to rage? Or maybe my "improved" consumption is actually due to the ECU dunno the fuel rail actually give more fuel than told? Machiam what they say those haram jadah OBD chips do lel.
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older gen cars easy to fool, newer ones need algorithm or most cheap piggybacks out there can't do much. We've even did a o2 simulator just to trick the AFR to the ECU. wire the piggyback to send fake signal (what the tuner shop told me) failed also, a decade ago. The biggest problem with modern engine is the crank sensor and knock sensor. the ecu is smart enough the sense and play around. Which is why alot of people are moving to Remap or Standalone. Less hassle pure tuning configuration.

Piggyback cannot manipulate the o2 sensor too much. will send the ecu to 02 sensor error limp mode. or choke your engine. On standard over time your AFR will run rich at lower rev based on my experience. If you're serious about performance don't waste too much time on piggyback. straight go install standalone or find a tuner whom can custom tune your engine via remap.

 

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