Any recommended electician in selangor area? i looking for professional one not like those doing renovation and self called "electrician" garbage. Recently my room's light is flickering and MCB making buzzing sound, so i call eletrician from https://www.ade-electrician.com, that guy is totally sh1t, he just turn on and off the light, then blaming the MCB amp too low and ask me to change the whole panel bla2, he dont even test the voltage or check the wiring.

The guy is probably right

i did change all the stuff will same problem.

Buzzing sound means loose contact. Loose connection cause fires. You can try DIY but test w test pen while still live to confirm test pen not spoiled, shut off everything in DB, test w test pen to confirm off. Then use screwdriver open up the buzzing MCB wire and retighten it firm so wont be able to tug wire out, but not until kopak dua cow strength.

Have you identified exactly which mcb n which socket or appliance cause the buzzing?

take a photo of your db panel

the buzzing is likely from loose contact. the loose contact will start causing heat, then burn the mcb. usually one mcb charring will trigger the rest if not fix immediately.

if u use those cap ayam one lagi facepalm

take the opportunity to review your protections against accidental touch/electrocution too

Can you state what type of light exactly?
if you are running the old flourescent light using choke the choke can also wear out over time - time to change to electronic ballast. Few bucks only.

Or if you are running halogens on transformer/cheapo LED (less likely to flicker) driver going bad also may be source of this.

Need to see if the brand can pakai or totally no SIRIM crap.

sirim chop is good. but those with chop merely comply to bare minimum spec.
i dont trust those rm3 breakers. seriously.. the component also cost more than rm3

This post has been edited by fireballs: Jan 12 2021, 10:41 PM

I have seen all sorts of unknown no-SIRIM, questionable with SIRIM but China made barely passing brands to top tier LV equipment brands (ABB, Hager, Schneider, Siemens). Also in Msia mostly using C curve MCB which is very tolerant to overloading so if something really short out really is a big problem for sure

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jan 12 2021, 10:45 PM

well..
mcb fail = fire. still have time to escape
leak = instant death


so for those who want to save money, go for cap ayam mcb, but please make sure rcd is branded.

Ideally all should be same brand.
In US the mfg dont cover if you use all rojak breakers.

Quality MCB only 7 bucks for 4.5kA or 8 bucks for 6kA
So even is boom also wont blow up whole place hahaha

What you said is true.. normally most of the top tier brand the cheap component MCB is made in china
But almost all the sensitive RCD (10ma/30mA) are still made in EU for better QC. Except S brand seems like everything in china one.

The s brand one...is using electronic tripping.
If voltage low, it may not trigger.

Sorry for the late reply, im using 5w LED light actually, the problem is my housing wiring has too much loop, from ground floor single MCB panel loop to first floor/ whole house, the wiring pretty messed up, i think the contractor want to save money dulu, 13 years old house.




This post has been edited by MrGuGuZai: Jan 14 2021, 12:37 PM

13 years old mcb, whole house .

This post has been edited by MrGuGuZai: Jan 14 2021, 12:36 PM

Change whole box also not too expensive lah. Just get the parts following the existing + add 10mA RCD or RCBO to WH circuits.
Yours is single phase (not 3 phase).

1x 63A main MCB - 2P (2pole) 6kA RM51.60
https://shopee.com.my/%F0%9F%94%A5READY-STO...3048.6462998954

1x ABB RCD 63A 2P 30ma (should be made in italy) RM129.00
https://shopee.com.my/ABB-RCCB-ELCB-RCD-40A...1048.7350447835

According to ST guideline they actually specify 100+30mA two device but for me, take one unit is cheaper as the 30mA can do everything the 100mA does without compromise life protection. ONE unit main 30mA 'bao whole house' will give life protection.
Don't listen to nonsense bullshit about 30mA always trip. Some dinosaur faux electrician still want to use 100mA or 300mA so they dont need to pick up calls. These (100 or 300) are useless for life protection (imagine u tertouch live circuit when changing bulb because someone knocked the switch live, or toaster leak electricity due to faulty device). More than 50mA confirm RIP.



I run mine and parents' place on 30mA. What good is RCD if not sensitive enough for life protection.

many pcs at least follow existing layout now - MCB each ABB MCB 1P/6kA - for the individual C16 buy C16 as necessary how many units according to current DB layout RM7.40/each
https://shopee.com.my/ABB-MCB-1P-6kA(6A-10A...4526.6860538286
This one if you want to split the shared circuit in your DB box you can buy more according to cable size.

1x each per WH circuit -Schneider 10mA RCBO (this one just replace inline aka swap the MCB for WH circuit also can) RM100.00/each PER WH
For Water Heater Circuit should trace back that individual neutral for it and use 10mA RCD OR RCBO per water heater.
ST guideline say according to the law you need 10mA for Water Heater or wet floor places' socket. to prevent this from occurring to you: https://www.nst.com.my/news/nation/2020/08/...e-electrocution

10mA RCD need to add with the MCB. Usually for ABB 10mA RCD this ard RM170.
10mA RCBO already include the MCB inside it so you can discount off
https://shopee.com.my/SCHNEIDER-RCBO-25a-2p...1048.2774414891

Lastly change the busbar to fresh one.. 23-way like RM9.20 only
https://shopee.com.my/(READY-STOCK)-1-PCS-M...6841.5064694032
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Above proposed is mostly ABB parts except the WH 10mA RCBO.
Schneider stuff also can use or Hager also can. Mostly the sensitive 10mA one is expensive. Rest of components about same price for top tier brands. Then find electrician supply labour to change all the parts (parts you can source yourself better coz usually they propose cheapo brand that is not much better)

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To speculate why ppl die from faulty water heater
because if the main RCD is those 100 or 300mA.. this only protect for FIRE protection and not LIFE.
so main RCD cannot save you if its >50mA (almost common to see all these 100/300 useless RCD in residential). Yours also 100mA.
and then the WH circuit does NOT have 10mA (high sensitivity) RCD according to ST guideline means NOTHING is protecting LIFE.

If you have WH 10mA on WH, and a main 30mA for whole house, LIFE is protected on TWO RCD devices. So even if one fail (murphys law) you still have a backup.
Still can come back and buy me a coffee for saving your LIFE.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jan 14 2021, 01:50 PM

Look like my house water heater (WH) is on 100mA... not for Life protection

Based on my MCB... can I change the o.1A to 0.03A?

Thanks in advance!







This post has been edited by clickNsnap: Jan 14 2021, 09:08 PM

looks recent. no need to change all lah
just power off totally,
check/smell for burnt mark
retighten all all screws
the faulty mcb just replace it with same rating. if possible, get abb/hager/schneider brand MCB
just for the time being

when u have the budget, then consider to redo to proper rating

edited

the spd here is type1 for direct strike. i cant find the datasheet on this.
you may need to install a fuse to limit any current leak

you will need additional SPD type 2 to limit the voltage after a strike. most equipment wont survive a volt leak from a type 1 SPD


consider
type 1 = outdoor water filter. you wont drink from this tap
type 2 = clean filter. can shower
type 3 = cleanest can drink

This post has been edited by fireballs: Jan 14 2021, 02:57 PM

What is the needs of additional SPD type 2? The current SPD setup serve well for now...before I install the SPD, my house gets tripped during heavy thunder storm/lighting.

Now, I am a bit of concern on my water heater... the previous post stated 100mA will not help to protect our life, change to 30mA is recommended.

Btw... what do you means...
consider
type 1 = outdoor water filter. you wont drink from this tap
type 2 = clean filter. can shower
type 3 = cleanest can drink

spd is like water filter
type 1 handle the large direct strike current. thats why its written there as 10/350
however, the leakage also high. means if kena strike there will be some voltage pass through the filter

thus the need of type 2 spd for 8/20 wave


those belkins/mrdiy are type 3


for water heater you need 10mA
for socket outlet is 30mA
lamps can be 100mA