The guy is probably right
Professional Electrician, Looking for professional electrician
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 Jan 12 2021, 07:47 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
5,650 posts Joined: Mar 2012 
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Quote|
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Jan 12 2021, 10:26 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
5,650 posts Joined: Mar 2012
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take a photo of your db panel
the buzzing is likely from loose contact. the loose contact will start causing heat, then burn the mcb. usually one mcb charring will trigger the rest if not fix immediately. if u use those cap ayam one lagi facepalm take the opportunity to review your protections against accidental touch/electrocution too |
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Jan 12 2021, 10:39 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
5,650 posts Joined: Mar 2012
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sirim chop is good. but those with chop merely comply to bare minimum spec. i dont trust those rm3 breakers. seriously.. the component also cost more than rm3 This post has been edited by fireballs: Jan 12 2021, 10:41 PM |
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Jan 12 2021, 10:57 PM
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#4
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5,650 posts Joined: Mar 2012
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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Jan 12 2021, 10:42 PM) I have seen all sorts of unknown no-SIRIM, questionable with SIRIM but China made barely passing brands to top tier LV equipment brands (ABB, Hager, Schneider, Siemens). Also in Msia mostly using C curve MCB which is very tolerant to overloading so if something really short out really is a big problem for sure well..   mcb fail = fire. still have time to escape leak = instant death so for those who want to save money, go for cap ayam mcb, but please make sure rcd is branded. |
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Jan 12 2021, 11:11 PM
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#5
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5,650 posts Joined: Mar 2012
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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Jan 12 2021, 11:06 PM) Ideally all should be same brand. The s brand one...is using electronic tripping.In US the mfg dont cover if you use all rojak breakers. Quality MCB only 7 bucks for 4.5kA or 8 bucks for 6kA So even is boom also wont blow up whole place hahaha What you said is true.. normally most of the top tier brand the cheap component MCB is made in china But almost all the sensitive RCD (10ma/30mA) are still made in EU for better QC. Except S brand seems like everything in china one. If voltage low, it may not trigger. |
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Jan 14 2021, 02:46 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
5,650 posts Joined: Mar 2012
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QUOTE(MrGuGuZai @ Jan 14 2021, 12:36 PM)   13 years old mcb, whole house . just power off totally, check/smell for burnt mark retighten all all screws the faulty mcb just replace it with same rating. if possible, get abb/hager/schneider brand MCB just for the time being when u have the budget, then consider to redo to proper rating |
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Jan 14 2021, 02:48 PM
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#7
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5,650 posts Joined: Mar 2012
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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Jan 14 2021, 02:27 PM) Look like my house water heater (WH) is on 100mA... not for Life protection edited Based on my MCB... cab I change the o.1A to 0.03A? Thanks in advance!    the spd here is type1 for direct strike. i cant find the datasheet on this. you may need to install a fuse to limit any current leak you will need additional SPD type 2 to limit the voltage after a strike. most equipment wont survive a volt leak from a type 1 SPD consider type 1 = outdoor water filter. you wont drink from this tap type 2 = clean filter. can shower type 3 = cleanest can drink This post has been edited by fireballs: Jan 14 2021, 02:57 PM |
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Jan 14 2021, 10:23 PM
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#8
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QUOTE(clickNsnap @ Jan 14 2021, 09:14 PM) What is the needs of additional SPD type 2? The current SPD setup serve well for now...before I install the SPD, my house gets tripped during heavy thunder storm/lighting. spd is like water filterNow, I am a bit of concern on my water heater... the previous post stated 100mA will not help to protect our life, change to 30mA is recommended. Btw... what do you means...  consider type 1 = outdoor water filter. you wont drink from this tap type 2 = clean filter. can shower type 3 = cleanest can drink type 1 handle the large direct strike current. thats why its written there as 10/350 however, the leakage also high. means if kena strike there will be some voltage pass through the filter thus the need of type 2 spd for 8/20 wave those belkins/mrdiy are type 3 for water heater you need 10mA for socket outlet is 30mA lamps can be 100mA |
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