I had asked before previous year but I forgot where is the post.
How to convert Fluorescent to LED ?

Here is the diagram and the current ballast brand which i need to remove.
The previous electric tech , i think mess up with the cable colour , which I get confuse on how to convert to LED.Which one need to remove and reconnect?
thanks for the help

edit : updated the diagram with wire colour and faulty ballast type brand.


This post has been edited by Maxieos: Jul 31 2020, 07:01 AM


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There is 2 ways of converting Fluorescent to LED.

1- Philips Ecofit T8 LED tube:
Nothing change except replace the starter which comes with Philips Ecofit T8 LED tube.

2- Other LED T8 tubes:
you need to remove ballast & starter, do the direct cable connections in the housing before installing the LED tube.

I just remove the starter and install LED

Note that this works only if the t8 led live and neutral at opposite end(L one side, N one side).
Iinm Philips t8 led has L and N on same side. If you want to use Philips, just replace the previous starter with the fake starter that comes with Philips in step 3.

This of course assuming that ballast/choke is magnetic type(the stone, heavy one).
2- not really. Just take out the starter. That's it.
That fake starter Philips is just a wire to connect neutral/live from the other end.

This post has been edited by UnknownH: Jul 30 2020, 08:08 AM

Nahh man, for no names you need to connect it to live and not through a ballast

There are two type of LED tube to replace florescent tube:





First figure is florescent using electronic ballast whatever. This one shows the LED tube that has single end connection

The second figure, which is more common, is using both ends of the LED tube.

Normally there is diagram that come with the tube so that you know which connection is to be used. For connection that used both ends, you can connect to either pin of the tube at each end.

Before MCO, I bought my T8 4ft LED lights and casing from my nearby hardware store. Removed the whole old flour lights and casings(= including starter and ballast/transformer) and replace with the new LED light and casing. Just need to connect the Live and Neutral wires, which connection are reversible, ie can connect either one = easy peasy. Mine is 7000K for full brightness.

LED lights will save you a ton of electricity cost.
..

PS - Anyone knows how to connect 2 such T8 LED lights and casing in series and at different locations(= not next to each other), eg to light up a very large room/space.?
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This post has been edited by lurkingaround: Jul 31 2020, 07:51 AM

mine was so old it had a capacitor looking thing in the system.. it was 25y plus stuff. no idea how to replace it end up replacing with the housing. the end part dried and cracked anyways

color no need care. cina led straight forward.
1 side hot wire (live), another side cold (neutral).

the rest just cut & throw away

Take note that LED comes with different brightness, even Philips model have 2 type.
You buy the wrong one and your room will not be bright enough.

Just buy new casing. Can go to electrical shop and buy just casing with no ballast. There are LED tube that comes complete in single piece but replacing it might require you replace with same model or else new drilling

Casing probably I think less than RM10 (not sure). I think even complete florescent fixture is RM12~14 only for 4ft one.

Works fine for a no name, generic, China ones like from Mr DIY or any electrical shops.
Of course, if want to do it properly, skip the ballast just like I mentioned in step 2 above.

Actually florescent and LED are about the same in their efficiency to generate light. The LED seems to be brighter because the light produced is concentrated to smaller angle since LED has lense. The florescent is emitting light to all direction.

The ads saying save power is basically because the 38W florescent is replaced with 18W LED

Should look like this in your case. Capacitor not really a needed. Just optional. Probably the magnetic ballast/choke inside really poor that's why.

Why not just bought another new led lamp.
Tukar the old lamp.

Led lamp now cheap2 can get.

Oh wow finally a diagram, i was blur how to do it.. ask shop also they look at me wtf a capacitor is there.

i buy led bulb from local shop
just take off the starter n put the bulb
done

if u want to rewire to bypass the ballast also can,the shopkeeper said this method will save u around 70% of electricity if im not mistaken

the former method only save around 40% of electric

just buy LED tube with cashing. headaches problem solve.

You asked a proper electrical shop ? A bakery shop owner sure blur blur !

Kedai lampu lor. Tech so old, pretty sure i was older than the shop assistant that assist me

Forget about the capacitor. The capacitor is for suppress the noise from the florescent light. Also called EMI capacitor. It is under safety class capacitor. It is designed to open circuit when failed. Traditional circuitry is more conservative and new design is to reduce cost

For LED, it is not needed since you do not have starter that create spark, thus noise.

My wireman told me to remove one wire and reconnect to the other wire on the ballast, thus bypassing the ballast. Next just remove the starter to open the starter circuit and you are good to go.

This post has been edited by Volfeed: Jul 30 2020, 09:15 AM

Go to any Led light shops. now they have led Fluorescent that just plug and play, if remember correctly can work with old tech with ballast.

Nah, bypassing the ballast will not save electricity by 70%. The shop keeper just relay what has been told and do not know anything perhaps

The ballast in the circuit acts like a resistor that limit the current to the florescent tube especially during start to protect the tube from damaging the electrode. I'd recommend to remove the ballast since it serve no purpose in LED light tube.

+1.
Just connect that two wires going in and out at the ballast(unscrew both wires from the ballast, connect them together using a connector of sort).
Basically skip the ballast. No need to remove the ballast completely. Just leave it there. Less effort, no need to bring down the whole case just to remove the ballast.

so old2 tech eh. pretty sure the led tripped the breaker cause of it. there were 2 set of florescent, i changed 1 only and breaker tripped.. end up changing both to led with new housing.

No. It should not cause the breaker to trip unless it has already failed and shorted.

I said conservative but not old. In fact inside modern appliances still you can find this capacitors usually in form of integrated in EMI module at the AC power inlet.

Just bought from Aneka, brand is Bossman. Removed starter and installed, that's all. No need any modification la.... already done more than 10 tubes ..

thx for the clarification bro

Follow this diagram. Our fluorescent housing use non-shunted tombstones.

You will need some extra wires to sambung all the connections.

Source: I hand-wired and converted a few fluorescent in my house to LED.

*DO NOT use Philips Ecofit T8 LED tube if you follow this wiring*

This post has been edited by PalakOtakHang: Jul 30 2020, 10:36 AM

As far as I know, you don't need to short those 2 wire either in socket or not. The PCB inside the LED tube is already shorted. You can just ignore the other pin and connect one either side.

Let's say, if my ballast is dead and i want to use the Philips, can I bypass the ballast and short the wires L and N going into the ballast to the socket (L to one end N to another end)?
Then plug in the fake starter from Philips?

Edited to clarify the question, shorting L and N is no-no for sure

This post has been edited by electron: Jul 30 2020, 11:05 AM

Determine if your LED tube light is compatible with the shunted or non-shunted tombstone configuration

If your LED tube light is single-ended, it is NOT compatible with shunted tombstones. This is because each of the two contacts in the tombstone must be opposite polarity for a single-ended LED tube light to work. In a shunted tombstone, however, this is not possible as there will be an internal short circuit.

If you have shunted tombstones, you will need to rewire or replace them and connect them to match the single-ended LED tube light manufacturers' wiring diagram.

If your LED tube light is double-ended, it is likely compatible with both shunted and non-shunted tombstones. The reason is that the two pins on each end of the LED tube light expect the same polarity, so whether or not they are shunted should have no influence on the final resulting circuit.



https://www.waveformlighting.com/tech/every...led-tube-lights 3E

now im getting myself confused

This post has been edited by PalakOtakHang: Jul 30 2020, 10:52 AM

source.

Well, just refer to the configuration that comes with the tube you buy. Even Mr. DIT one with no box also has diagram in form of sticker to the foam. I'd say probably all tube have trace shorted at PCB level nowadays in my experience.

this. me too

From my experience, led does not last long.

There is no N into the ballast. You just unscrew both wires at the ballast and connect them together using a connector(hence skipping the ballast). Those wires are L coming in and out of the ballast.
Then, just replace the starter with the one came with philips. That's it.
(ignore the capacitor part in the photo. Most don't have it)

thank you

Yep, that's what I do too. This thread is getting too long for something so simple.

This post has been edited by soonwai: Jul 30 2020, 02:02 PM

Sorry at first post I though i had updated the diagram.
Plan to remove the ballast since a few ballast spoil and not working.
Currently , doesn't know which wire to cut , i saw some comment doesn't need to know the colour but somehow the previous tech installer using different wire colour which confusing.

So , if follow the diagram , which wire I should remove and replace and the end result of LED wiring should be like ?

This post has been edited by Maxieos: Jul 31 2020, 07:05 AM


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Your diagram really weird. Even sticker on the ballast there got no N to the ballast.

Don't really need to know actually. Surely it'll be L one side, N the other side.

The installer install in an opposite way ,
That ballast have N and L but too small to see.

This is one of the spoil ballast which the old tech installer install 180 rotated in the other way.



This post has been edited by Maxieos: Jul 31 2020, 07:14 AM


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3 pages just to show how to connect LED light? wow...

Dark brick ballast.
Circle rest of the circuit, isn't it. If not, where does the N come from?
Your diagram even is just a loop.

This post has been edited by UnknownH: Jul 31 2020, 07:15 AM

Sorry I don't understand what you mean , it's a faulty ballast as i know.
I follower the colour , there are 4 wire cable from the wall which is 3 black wire and one green ( ground).
N is black anther 2 black wire is ?

Use a test pen. One of them should be live. Others are ground and neutral. My guess, 2 of them are just a loop neutral.

Anyway, this is normally a magnetic ballast fluo setup.


Note the live(L). The idea is you want the live go straight to the holder, skipping the ballast. That's it. Just connect them wires previously at the ballast together using a connector.
From your photo, seems like the connector on the ballast looks fine. You can use that. Just loosen all 4 screws on the connector, pull it out from the ballast.
You don't even need to bring down the casing. Less effort.
Basically, just need to connect two wires that's already in the case together.

The other end of holder should be to the neutral(N).
Then remove the starter if you're using Mr DIY or no name brand LED. If you're using Philips, replace it with the one that comes with Philips.

This post has been edited by UnknownH: Jul 31 2020, 08:00 AM

= easy peasy method.
.


= complicated method.
.

This post has been edited by lurkingaround: Jul 31 2020, 07:56 AM

It's AC so it doesn't matter. Throw everything (starter & ballast) inside the casing. There're 2 wires going into the casing from the wall. One wire to one end. (for shunted connectors)

This post has been edited by soonwai: Jul 31 2020, 12:41 PM

Some houses have reversed the wirings, and there are several ways to hook up LEDs which could be confusing to someone who has just started looking into this. Even the same tube can be compatible with existing ballasts or the homeowner can took to take it out and rewire for more efficiency.

What do u mean by reversed wiring? Kindy elaborate more about reverse wiring.

Reverse polarity.

correct me if im wrong, for LED either one is + or - doesnt matter.

Since if going to fix the wiring , surely will turn off the circuit box.Does test pen works on Live ?

The diagram is quite complicated as beginner , rather if I hope someone can show me how am i suppose to fix wiring ? The wall wire came with 3 black , one should be Live without knowing which one , 2 black is connect to red cable and the last green cable ???

The ballast does not light up even change to other fluorescent/ remove starter and add LED also not working.
Rather than buying another ballast , it would be much cost effective by changing to all LED straight.

In the diagram , which i don't know why the tech wiring fix in that way.



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Of course need to turn on, how else the test pen would tell if it's a live or not?
Anyway, this is my guess.
1 is live(L).
2 and 3 are neutral(N). Need to connect them together because they are loop. Completely normal. If not, circuit won't complete which means your light won't light up.
4 is ground.


If my guess is right, it means it's just the same as in my previous photo. L from the wall to the ballast, the other wire from the ballast to one of the holders. And then, the other end of the holders should be connected to N from the wall. Exactly the same.

This is as graphic as I could be for you. Only thing missing in here is the ground.


This post has been edited by UnknownH: Aug 1 2020, 06:13 AM

sorry for midnight reply, i save it as draft which I haven't finish typing and click send when i half awake.

But , is'nt it dangerous to turn on the electric while rewiring them ?

So , to convert to LED , which wire i need to cut off / remove ? i am sure anything connected to ballast and starter can be remove.Can guide me abit through the diagram i posted ?
thanks

Of course it is. Don't go touch or short them. I said for test purpose only.
Nothing to cut. You don't even need to bring down the whole case down.
Just connect number 1 and 5 together. Just unscrew them from the ballast and connect them together using a terminal block.


You terminal block/connector seems fine. Can just reuse it to connect those two wires. Loosen all 4 screws on it, then pull out from the ballast.



Of course after that, don't use the starter. Or use the one that comes with the Philips if you're using Philips.

This post has been edited by UnknownH: Aug 1 2020, 03:40 PM

Yes I think it doesn't matter for led drivers for t8 tubes but it might be confusing for diy homeowners since wiring diagrams show polarity and its just good practice.

So the end diagram after convert is like this ?
Connect the Black and blue together ? I though it should be Live ?
The 2 black wire is still connected to right side of the holder.Just leave it as it does ?
Actually , how to test which is Neutral and Live ?


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I saw some diy from youtube but most of them are connected to dual LED light and not single.Beside , the current wire came from the wall is 3 black and 1 green where youtube mostly are 2 wires.

Don't buy Philips one. Luckily I only bought 2. Need to insert their custom starter.

Buy China led tube no need modify anything. Plug and play even with ballast. Just remove starter enough liao.

Don't buy those MRDIY ones. Goto electrical shop and buy those 30w led light (metal cap end). The brightness can challenge fluorescent.

That’s what I did too. Lucky more downlights than flous so easier replacement. Next is replacing 15yr old 2 door Hitachi 3-star to 5-star fridge.

Yes.
What black and blue? I don't know how else to make things clearer for you really. I even labelled those wires coming out from the wall.
There are 3 things coming out from the wall. Live, Neutral and Ground. Those two connected together at right side of the holder are just Neutral in loop.
Of course I'm connecting Live there. I labelled it number 1. 2 and 3 are neutral, 4 ground.
Just leave it there. So now you get L on one side, N on the opposite side.
I told you before. Use a test pen. Most simplest, easiest method. Live will light up the test pen. It remains off or could be just a tiny bit light up for Neutral and Ground.

Here I fixed your diagram. We have removed the starter now, didn't we? So it should be like this. Whatever wire coming in and out from the starter isn't connected now(because the starter isn't there anymore).


This post has been edited by UnknownH: Aug 2 2020, 02:20 AM

I did same way too during mco. Ballast/transformer i no use n throw away, just did direct connection the L and N wire. I did in series 10 T8 led side by side with 1 control switch.

Connection in series easy peazy too, u just need to buy T8 that have connector both end side left n right. Its can comes wif 2 pins or 3 pins type, but no different lar. Just buy extra connector and extra wire to connect in series. Giv u example pic.



Mine exactly like this pattern. If for single T8 use only, any connection from both end side would work if connect to on/off switch.
In series, u can connect as many as u want wif this type of T8. If wire not enough long, u can cut and connect wif much longer wire.




This connector is for side by side connection.

This post has been edited by Revoz: Aug 2 2020, 02:37 AM

If you're in kuching
Come to my shop I teach you
I sell t8 led tube for a living :|

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Wow.! ... Thanks a lot for the detailed information.

How much will it cost if I were to connect 2 such LED T8 lights in series about 8 to 10 feet apart in my large living room.?
.
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PS - One 4-ft T8 LED light plus casing cost me about RM15 at my nearby hardware store.
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This post has been edited by lurkingaround: Aug 2 2020, 09:10 AM

8-10ft apart? U need to buy connector that same length as u want, i not sure if they got sell that long. If dont have that long, u can modify by buying 3-4 meters extra wire and connect to t8 connector by cutting and connect wiring urself.

My place slight expensive, t8 4ft rm18-20.
U need to buy 2 set 4ft t8 cost u rm30, then 1 connector i think few ringgit only. Extra wire also like few ringgit per meter.




Something like this la, red+black as extra wire for to connect how long u want. Then the white t8 connector u cut and connect wif red+black wire.

as long not Phillips brand isit ok? china got what brand?

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Great idea. Thanks.
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Welcome.

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The costs of this setup, ie 2 T8 LED 4-ft lights connected in series about 10 feet apart, eg for a large room. .......
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https://shopee.com.my/LED-T8-tube-light-int...5413.2450317565

https://shopee.com.my/Integrated-Led-Tube-L...4449.5336200093

https://shopee.com.my/LED-tube-T5-T8-integr...0187.2578991692
.

Rm12.60 for 4ft thats cheap already.
Mine is rm18 each, but i bought x10 they gv me rm17 = rm170, but each t8 came with the mini connector for side by side connection in series. I bought at local electric store, they no much discount that time.

.
I have seen many Chinese coffee-shops using this setup to connect a series of up to 10 T8 4-ft LED lights side-by-side, eg .......


https://issuu.com/ledworldbrochures/docs/co..._catalogue_2017
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This post has been edited by lurkingaround: Aug 2 2020, 04:17 PM

Look nice actually. Brighter than led stripe.

Adding on another.

3) One is to remove the existing starter and plug in the LED tube.

Just find out which wires are live, neutral, ground. If you are not up to it, theres drop in replacement led tubes like the philips mastervalue/instantfit that can fit right in the same socket without any rewiring, just get the right kind for magnetic/electonic ballast and the starter might need to be replaced with a dummy type.

u should thank ur developer/whoever installed it for not being a cheapskate
all these 25y u're enjoying almost 1/2 saving for that light compared to not using capacitor

it's for PFC, not safety

AC got no polarity

interesting, i just did mine over the weekends like 2 days ago.

The existing Fluorescent housing has two cables connect to it and of course the noisy ballast.

So, to change from Fluorescent to LED, remove starter and best to bypass ballast (you can still have ballast connected and you have to remove starter). Due to the housing wiring, i bought a new housing for the LED tube, so the wire runs direct from house supply *Live and Neutral

Mine was a bit complicated due to wiring extension for multiple tubes, and I have mixtures of Fluorescent and LED.

But principle stays, with Fluorescent, ballast and starter. LED, remove ballast, starter and install new housing

Ok, I was wrong here. It is for power factor. The EMI capacitor is built inside the starter already.

I believe in olden days, the florescent light set did come with capacitor inside. However, improving power factor does not contribute to any saving on your electricity bill since you are charged for power usage only as recorded by meter in kWh. Household are not charged for power factor in billing.

what so difficult? buy the whole led set, replace the whole thing

back then ppl take SIRIM & ST seriously
now it's all about cost saving

bill in kWh but measured in kVA i believe
it should be the same if PF = 1 but many electrical appliances still hv PF <0.8
since V is constant, lower PF = higher A, so ur kWh will increase
our TNB very smart heh

Where you buy the tube?

Normal electric shop. Just tell them you wanna use it with ballast, don't want modify. Also ask if they have the higher watt one (I think it's 30w).

You can see 18w vs 30w


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For former method, does this really saves electricity if i replaces same Watt? Mean change 36W fluorescent with 36W LED(i get more brightness).

Or you mean saves as in lower Watt to get same brightness?

TNB said:

Who will be affected?
Customers from the commercial, industrial, mining and agriculture category that use three (3) phase low-voltage system should take note of this surcharge. TNB said that this surcharge does not involve customers in the domestic category.

IMO, The hassle is not worth it coz LED less bright (maybe due to brand?), not cheap and overall look (due to the cover) is not better. Easier to maintain florescent

IMO, The hassle is not worth it coz LED less bright (maybe due to brand?), not cheap and overall look (due to the cover) is not better. Easier to maintain florescent

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https://easilygreen.com.au/fluorescent-vs-l...rescent-lights/ - Fluorescent vs LED lights – 10 Problems to Consider with Fluorescent lights - February 19, 2016
''''''' 1. Frequent Switching Causes Early Failures

2. Fluorescent lights Contain Mercury

3. LED Lighting does not give off UV light

4. The “Buzz” On the Fluorescent Ballast

5. Power Quality and Radio Interference

6. LED lights are much more efficient At High and Low Temperatures

7. Fluorescent Lamp Shape Cause Retrofit Problems

8. Fluorescent lights do not have the life span of LED lights and therefore incur greater maintenance costs.

9. Contaminants Cause Disposal and Recycling Issues

10. Light from Fluorescent Bulb Is Non-Directional '''''''
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My house's LED T8 4-feet and 2-feet tube lights at 7000K is bright enough and do not present any eye problems after > 6 months of use. Some people may be foolishly recommending not-bright yellowish 3000K to 4000K LED lights to others.
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This post has been edited by lurkingaround: Aug 5 2020, 02:34 PM