Wah landed!
I stay in highrise.
Long time ago supply only 40A per phase due to wire size small. So not very useful, hence prev owner put in 3ph so can use up to 120A.

U supply the parts yourself will be cheaper than asking the electrician to buy for you..But to get the right part w/o pic of ur existing is hard..err on the side of 63A 30mA 2P RCD. then get an electrician or wireman to wire it up should cost around there. For plug and play replacement you can shop around FB..some are pretty cheap on labour. My usual sub con costs from 200 to show up.

Here in MY whilst the appliance is not in a wet floor area, it won't be covered by ST reg w.r.t water heater. But if its outdoors then should have at max 30mA RCD.

b) Regulation 36(2) of the Electricity Regulations 1994 states that for
a place where the floor is likely to be wet or where the wall or
enclosure is of low electrical resistance, protection against earth
leakage current must be provided by a residual current device of
sensitivity not exceeding 10 milliamperes;
c) Regulation 36(3) of the Electricity Regulations 1994 states that for
an installation where hand-held equipment, apparatus or
appliance is likely to be used, protection against earth leakage
current must be provided by a residual current device of
sensitivity not exceeding 30 milliamperes;


Over in UK - https://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk//g.../garden-safety/ it is recommended to fit an RCD for water pump.

In your case..I would suggest to change the 100mA main RCD with a 30mA RCD in the event rainwater drip in onto the pump during thunderstorm. Then it would cover all bases including your 13A sockets.

Modern RCD from ABB, Hager come with anti nuisance trip feature, it will not nuisance trip much compared to those sold before 2000, about 97% reduction.

What is the likelihood the roof leaks from thunderstorm/strong wind esp in older homes, and causes the pump to be flooded?

RCD has dual function to protect life, and protect against fire.
Assuming only a single unit (main RCD) is installed, 100mA you already breaking Electricity Regulations 1994 as all the 13A sockets can kill humans at 50mA.

Itu electrician qualified or not? You are not running a dodol machine at home that will trip a 30mA on normal startup.

Nobody in their right mind put 300mA in residential. In SG and UK, everybody put 30mA for residential. Maybe Malaysia got stronger human than them can sustain 230V currents lah..

I personally use all 30mA.

As mentioned, modern RCD has anti nuisance trip so it does not trip on false alarm like those made before 2000.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jan 13 2022, 02:24 PM

300mA better dun put la. Confirm six times killed, then only trip

The higher the better for them only because 1. Lowest price (lousy sensitivity is dirt cheap on 3phase) and 2. very hard to trip (no callbacks from owner). Which is ok for industrial use but at home, what good is human dying 6 times over ☠☠☠☠☠☠ before it decided oh ok..lets trip.🥱

All the expensive specification i.e. 63A max load, 30mA top tier sensitivity, 3phase supply and good brand like ABB/Hager using VI design (works regardless got voltage or not) will cost 290-300 bucks for RCD alone easily exclude installation.

At 300mA 🤦‍♀️, VD type (won't work if no voltage), non high end brand (Schneider and below) easily half the price but ZERO life protection. ☠☠☠☠☠☠ It only protect building for FIRE 🔥 protection. Not to mention, its illegal to use 300mA in residential...CHEAP mah! 😅

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 29 2022, 07:03 PM

Yes, lower mA trip current is safer.

Humans die at 50mA current.

Pick your poison between 30mA, 100mA, 300mA.
Two of them can and will ☠. Just a matter of whether ☠☠ or ☠☠☠☠☠☠

3phase and 10k reno should use ABB or Hager for the mains RCD 30mA (0.03A)
EPS boleh pakai lah..local brand.. but I personally prefer ABB. Safety item really you get what u pay for

⚠️ Also ensure you have individual 10mA (0.01A) per each water heater unit.

If MCB is EPS, can still mixed with Hager RCD? Yes

So I just tell the electrician to change the 300mA to Hager/ABB RCD 30mA? Yes

If I got 4 toilets with water heater, then have to use 4 individual 10mA RCD? Yes 4WH = 4x 10mA RCD's is best. If DB no space issue, can use Schneider 25A 10mA RCBO

Can, I'm using single (whole house) 30mA RCD w 3ph supply to type this

no need lah, this is 2022
we are not in the business of selling RCDs
MS1979:2007 COP55 mentioned can put one single whole house RCD [at origin of installation]


the code in force is Electricity Regulations 1994
back then:
a. nobody use LED light. all use leaky fluorescent tube.
b. nobody use inverter at home for AC and fridge.
c. my Sony VCR also leak current, always kena zap from metal body. it came with 2 pin plug.
d. people use CRT TV

nowadays
appliances are made better with much lesser leakage current
meaning to say there's no actual need to use so many mains RCD's [this is in relation to some who propose one 30mA and one 100mA]
when one single whole house RCD 30mA can comply fully.
note its "maximum tolerance allowed" not "identical die-die must be exact"


----

as for your suggestion it is not wrong.. actually split load design is to have half the lights and half the sockets on each mains RCD (two mains RCDs), not split by lights vs sockets. Because again, 2022 everyone using much better made items with much lesser residual leakage current.

to expand on your suggestion, 3 phase supply CAN also be protected with 3x single phase RCDs.

split load pro: so in the case one RCD trips, you still have half the things running until user figure out what's wrong
split load con: cost of extra RCD

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 31 2022, 12:05 AM

By the process of elimination.
Obviously, it won't be the 1.5mm thin wires.
So out of the 2.5mm pile..
disconnect half and test continuity. (isolate the bunch u disconnected - make sure it doesnt contact elsewhere). if its not lighting up the double pole switch LED then u have isolated that "half" - its somewhere in that isolated pile.

Its not hard, but its annoying coz you don't know which is which at the neutral. But it is a necessary evil and salute you for installing a 10mA RCD/RCBO anyhow.

HI is usually used to described advanced anti-nuisance trip (protect against switching transients and harmonics).
Those with anti nuisance trip (protect against switching transients) for residential use will suffice.

Also by process of elimination, it should not be hard for the electrician to prove a component or the load is faulty by hooking up a test load like a lamp or something (ie disconnect everything else). Sometimes old wiring or old appliance can be leaky. A competent electrician can easily swap out your RCCB with another 100mA unit that he/she has in stock.

That is where the process of elimination comes into play (if there is no load connected at all to the RCD you bought) then it should stay energised.
He can also slave the 100mA you bought into his 300mA onto a spare bulb as test circuit just to test the RCD functionality.

You should return it for more reputable brands if even a controlled test circuit refused to work.

Completely useless for human life protection.
Its only good for fire protection.

0.3A RCD has NO PLACE in residential domestic use.

For single RCD (whole house RCD) your RCDs shall be a 30mA (0.03A) [one per house] to be code compliant; AND
a 10mA (0.01A) [one for each water heater circuit].


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Most welcome. Sorry late reply.

Got one, but you need to dig in FB "Chargeman & Wireman" group.

1) is always possible, I run 48 way for my small apartment; RCBO is space saving as it can replace existing MCB slot (1-to-1).
2) need to identify the return N for that specific circuit. bit mafan. but doable, and its a necessary step for proper installation.
3) Your life insurance provider. Personally if best-of-the-best, ABB or Hager has technical advantage being VI (voltage independent) in such that even if the voltage to RCD dips below certain V, the RCD still will operate even at 0 voltage. It is pure current imbalance detection. Whereas "for any other commonly available brand that is cheaper" they are highly likely to be the VD type RCD (voltage dependent). Nevertheless, understand that ABB/Hager 10mA costs upwards of RM150 each, I would recommend at least getting a Schneider 10mA.
4) Plug and socket is illegal because almost all WH already exceed 15A nominal. Change to splash proof centon connector.
4.1) The 10mA ideally should be at the DB box area for ease of maintenance but if there is no other better way, keep it OUTSIDE of the wet area (outside of bathroom) and before the 20A switch (i.e. RCD must always be powered).

30mA offers a "seatbelt" to cut power before your heart goes out of order "ventricular fillibration" at 50mA.
Since 100mA or 300mA is gonna cut power AFTER your heart goes out of order "ventricular fillibration" at 50mA... in short, it means bye bye

There is no mention of 300mA for domestic installation in the MS1979 COP at all.
--Yes this is old version @ 2007 but the 2015 one didn't change much.


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It’s for lighting only (does not control any sockets or any water heaters) then it’s ok-lah

Six times ded. Hexa kill 300mA is only used in commercial/industrial applications. You don’t run huge motors at home

Use 30mA, no developed country use 100mA for homes one.

ELCB is cheaper because it is dinosaur tech.
https://electrical-engineering-portal.com/w...rent-device-rcd

10mA RCD one ketul good one (ABB/Hager) VI type already RM160 barang only.
It attract new problem like no space in DB box and a complete overhaul of new panel (new DB) is a lot of work and not every customer willing to pay for it.
Quote even RM10 more expensive you lost the job so there is no incentive to do things proper in MY.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 8 2023, 02:55 PM

https://www.clipsal.com/learn-and-discover/...ts-up-buzz-rcds
In Australia:
The main change is to the application of RCDs in domestic installations. All final sub-circuits in a residential installation, no matter the amperage or number of phases, are to be 30mA RCD protected. In general, the changes made now require fixed or stationary electrical equipment, such as a hot water service, an air conditioner, cook top, oven or range to be protected by a 30mA RCD.

Where a whole switchboard is being upgraded to replace existing protection then that switchboard is to be brought up to date with RCD protection.

In Msia:
Maybe humans in MY can tahan better than humans in AU.