TV cabinet part sounds expensive. For that big piece of panel and single tall section plus TV bench.
Dry/wet kitchen sounds about there. Island too but island wise actually can get ikea bottom cabinet and hook up your own stone top.

After hacking to remove the top tiles it will look something like egg carton surface. That condition of bombed out cement screed (post-hacking) need further levelling to get it perfectly level.
Plus if you stick porcelain top over the ex-concrete top section, it will look very thick.

Typically in hardware installation (KC, reno) or software works (database data insertion) building from new is usually easier than (cleaning up mess from other people).
Also partly commercial reason.. they are KC maker not "rework/refurbish specialist"
You can try to contact stone top supplier instead.

I use peasant ikea composite sink with the protective mat.
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/grundvattnet-mat-grey-60325421/

This mat prevents the sink from getting direct impact even if you drop a bowl or mug.

In terms of watermark don't have this issue coz always wash down with a drop of dish wash liquid and rinse off. Then it dries off pretty well.

To put into perspective, I have removed an undermounted SS sink mounted to quartz top before (from a "halfcut" due to "wrongly ordered" by a big kitcab firm).
They stuck the sink to the quartz top using epoxy adhesive, it can be removed but involved using a blade/knife to slice the epoxy layer.
The quartz "halfcut" was to be disposed off so I didn't bother cleaning the mounting edge.
I think this is the part that the KC guy was worried about but after removing off the sink the hole is already accessible and previous mounting edge can be sanded down for the new sink.

Cleaning up the epoxy residue on the SS sink took awhile to scrape off and fine removal with steel wool but doable.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 13 2021, 09:13 PM

Technically prep work is just:
to remove the sink connections (tap flexihose and drain pipe) and
unscrew the top's L joints from the bottom carcass and
remove the plinth (if any) and slice the caulking at the wall-top connection..

from there nothing is holding back the top already.
Then you can take out the whole top with the sink attached* as a single piece.
Old sink can be removed and new sink can be reattached.
Some recaulking here and there at the part where top meets the wall.

*May not work well for ultra long top or L shaped kitchen top.
*Unless they epoxy the top to the carcass which is quite a silly thing to do (to make it non-serviceable).

Some people just want to sell you a new kitchen in 20 years I think.
Whilst I cannot comment more since I got the free sink halfcut from that place also.

For me this is why I still like the ikea modular kitchen. Any problem it is easy to just change that particular carcass module only.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 13 2021, 09:53 PM

It has to be apple to apple comparison.
Sure there will be some that can do half the price of ikea metod but using elcheapo material.
As in my example comparison between 8ft kitchens, both exclude installation fee.

The ikea elcheapo series is not even 2k, thin materials etc.
The fullspec ikea metod series can cost 6-7k depending on fittings (fancy door, fancy sink, everything soft close etc).

The advantage of ikea system is that it is modular, sink cabinet wet and rotted can just change that module easily. Very user serviceable. And you know exactly what you're getting.
Since its modular, if you want to pair it with a stone top (external supplier) it is also possible.

Outside contractor I would probably trust is Signature Kitchen but their pricing is also top notch, will need to see if my kidney can sell or not.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 17 2021, 08:34 PM

I do installation for shelves. Generally the customer is made to understand the wall can be defective ie not flat, not straight, parallax error etc but we install according to spirit level cun cun and get customer to agree to accept as per spirit level flatness.

In your case - one of the shorty spirit levels should help you make your acceptance/rejection case - https://shopee.com.my/(-100-Original-)-Stan...5385.7306459093

To check whether your window is actually level you can get a cheap 80cm level. Should be sufficient.

Longer ones like 150cm with good measuring tolerance of 0.50 mm/m (0.029°) is for overall level check for the cabinet frame rail but not worth it if you don't use it.

If it is not level then ask the KC to install it to your expectation (spirit level correctness) or (relative level to the window correctness).

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 20 2021, 04:55 PM

For the tile installation
When proper materials and proper installation methods and mixing ratios are used it should not fall off. Sand is dirt cheap, tile adhesive/PVA/susu and cement modifier are not cheap, OPC cement fairly expensive compared to sand aggregate. Incorrect ratio or cut corner mixtures usually prone to falling off issue. Also simple thing like backbuttering tiles where appropriate and not just putting 5 dots like domino pattern can make or break the quality of tile installation.

Nowadays Sika stuff readymix SikaCeram88 or thereabouts only cost 15 per 25kg bag.. or ADX also slightly cheaper to do a proper job.

For the concrete top
Appropriate rebar size and placement and concrete mix used will not fail, concrete gets harder and harder over time. Rebar should be propped up so it gets surrounded by concrete to be approx halfway of the concrete thickness i.e. not just laying on the bottom of the formwork

Such payment term certainly gives you very little recourse in the event that they did a sloppy job since you already paid them full, zero risk for them as all monies collected upfront.

If half upfront and half upon satisfactory completion of works sound more reasonable to me.

For a baseline, roughly how much did they quote (and scope of works)?

You can guesstimate based on your (and your partner's) height using a long ruler/carpenters square/cardboard box, I just simply install at the height where our heads will never hit the bottom side of top cabinet.
Usually the top cabinet (if Ikea system) will be narrower than the bottom cabinet so it's quite impossible to bang the head on the top cabinet in any circumstances.
For non ikea system or where the top half is equally deep as the bottom half the scenario will be a bit different.

Officially Ikea recommended https://www.ikea.com/us/en/files/pdf/a3/20/...guide-aug18.pdf
so in theory it will be ~50cm between countertop and bottom part of top cabinets, your 70cm should work generally, but best to test out first. I used this https://shopee.com.my/24-X-16-CARPENTER-SQU...6208.1298300561 to simulate the top cabinet's lowest point target height (and depth) before installing.

There is also one potential problem, if mounting the top half too high up it will be quite hard to access things without a step stool.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 31 2021, 09:25 PM

For #1 the x should leave some space ljke 10 to 15cm coz water splash from the tap will run the risk of ruining the cabinet.

#2 you will need enough space for putting up a drying rack as those washed plates and stuff still need to dry off somewhere.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 1 2021, 03:21 AM

Alu being metal is best for wet spots like sink area etc. The other places e.g. top cabinets hardly get wet so not a problem. Alu easier to clean than any wood or chipboard based stuff, you can be lazy to put pots freshly washed on the shelves without worrying about water damage.

Fully alu (alu already "rusted" on the surface aka "oxidised" in normal condition) so it will not rust any further, as what you see is already Al₂O₃ (aluminum oxide) on the surface.
It can still be subject to corrosion if the surface film is removed through strong acid/alkali. Just like 10-year old unopened soft drink cans self-destruct

https://www.kloecknermetals.com/blog/alumin...sion-resistant/

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 23 2021, 02:54 PM

Normally concrete still need that 2 or 3 in thickness unless very well reinforced to the wall.

No offense to those concrete top users, but yes in terms of bulletproofness its pretty hardwearing and all but if the actual cabinet still melamine based it will also have same wetness issue in years to come. However to me usually concrete top is the economical solution if enduser finds those quartz or similar tops as unaffordable.

Ikea one being modular if the sink part needs replacing then it should be an easy swap.

The slab can be installed over concrete top, or brick/alu profile frame (like a nicer version of scaffolding) or even placed on top of ikea carcasses (with or without underlay plywood)..impt is to ensure something can support the slab consistently across its span..ie not just hanging at the 2 ends and whole middle part unsupported, it may fracture or crack. In other words, can buy the metod system sans countertop also and install a quartz or granite slab to lay on top. Metod give u access to Blum fittings for a fraction of price from full priced options like Hafele or Sig Kit.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 8 2021, 01:39 AM

Depending on the slab thickness and the edge look you're going for, the plywood underlay can be optional. 2cm quartz does not need underlayment and can be installed directly on cabinet frames. If you do this, you can't have a thick edge build-up ("thick border") and you have to raise your cabinets (common rail) so your appliances fit (if you are stuffing in a dishwasher, with no plywood padding+thick border).

If the stone slab is finger thin like 10mm then (due to its thinness) you will need the plywood padding (just like chicken rice with sad chicken portion requires cucumber underlay padding ). Generally the ikea acrylic custom stuff solid material also don't use plywood backing.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 10 2021, 09:32 PM

Design either you can DIY using the tool online at yr convenience, or book a slot to plan plan at nearest store.
Important part is you have the measurements of your kitchen.
Last time they can also do onsite, but now with pandemic I think lesser contact is safer.

The basic concept is quite easy, pick carcass frame size, add shelves/drawers, lastly pick the doors/drawer fronts and soft close stuffs for hinges/drawer rail. Basic type need handle, for handleless type it cost more but its a personal preference as I hate the handles catching on me.

Parts list autogenerated by the design tool. Save the design, order at the store without appt if u already sure thats what u need. Just go there and tell them "I want to open SO please" just login your design there, auto pull based on the design ID#, they give a onceover w.r.t the nos. of legs u need and to confirm your fittings (basically small stuff). Then once SO created just pay at counter and collect the goods.

Between Ikea Cheras and Dsara both are generally positive experience however if high demand parts u may need to buy n collect from another store. Last time I bought whole bottom half all in stock at Dsara, then want to add the top half ended up piecemeal from both central stores, so happen everyone also installing the same look so low parts, need to visit the other store and online ordered the door which came from Batu Kawan PG.

Installation either DIY or book their installer also can.
Its certainly DIYable, alot of online videos and guides, some tools required here and there.

Depending on material grade/thickness and fittings (looks like 8+3feet to me) and who's doing it, between 8 to 30k possible.
You can also guesstimate from ikea cabinet sample to get a rough idea for the cabinet excl quartz top.

Can share pic of how this "sink basin" look like?
If its the FOC developer sink (the 50 bucks type) usually ppl throw away/send to recycle shop and install a proper sink when they install a kitcab.
See whether it is supported by two iron pipe from wall (just cut off with hacksaw also can), or its hung onto the wall using screw and brackets (easy to remove)

Cutting the hole for sink leh.. this depends on whether you are going with 3rd party top or ikea top.
If ikea top u can try ask them just for minimum job of the countertop ( https://www.ikea.com/my/en/customer-service...n-installation/ ) from 85/m (min 200)

If stone top (3rd party) the top supplier should be able to cut for you.


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