Oh FOC sink lol. I tot u got a fancy sink. Generally ikea kitcab is hung on the wall. Doesnt require gluing to floor.

My case the dev dont install this FOC sink since most ppl also throw away but if ppl want they will install.

Do full alu kitchen cabinet with some stone top will look nicer..
Concrete top is the (no offense) elcheapo option coz it will look very thick.. and not to mention look a bit dated.

No for me as it tend to make it too windy for stove. In windy condition the stove flame won't stay pointed straight up but end up senget to the side meaning only heat the side of the pan and heating the handle and air...but the pan not getting hot.

Big exhaust fan 12" draw out the heat to the outside is better. Normal 12" KDK exhaust will do. Else if want safer abit (depending if the fan is low) can use the KDK raku raku with the mesh grille so finger wont get chopped. U can see those commercial kitchen setup..nobody use ceiling fan there..they use duct for extracting heat out.

Same for the hood..recirc type is compromise solution for apartment.
If vented type, blow out to outside is better. There are people who can core out the 6in DVD size hole nicely..else old school method of drilling many polka dot holes to form the outline and chisel out the hole also can.

You can try dishwash and see if the marker pen graffiti comes out.
The rest look like tape residue OR aftermath of tape ripping off the surface?

Its not a structural wall where the drain pipe sits at, due to the large window there.. so it should be hackable and editable if needed.

The Knoxhult chassis has a "structural leg" there at 120cm point.. depending on the bottom "main frame" piece, you should be able to test-fit (dry-fit temporarily that piece and that leg) just to see whether the 120cm point leg will be clashing with the sink drain pipe or not.

For making holes that fit the drain pipe and sink water hose cun cun.. a laser line will be nice..
else old school method prop up the cabinet to desired height and use a L-ruler mark the back side of the cabinet against actual positions from the wall, and use those wood hole saw (for door knob) bore 1 big, 1 small hole (per the doorknob hole kit)

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jun 16 2021, 11:49 PM

Ready made ikea one ie the KNOXHULT below 2k..or add another 600 or so for installation.
This is a non customisable unit for the most part. Built for pricepoint.

If its for own stay a customised METOD full fledged for 8ft will run you about 6 to 7k with drawers all on the bottom half. Ikea got 0pc EPP up to 24 months

It also depends on your kitchen layout as well. If long kitchen like 15ft then it will cost more.

If full alu is full alu 100% then it should be able to tahan aquarium flooding.
Generally ikea metod one is standing on plastic lega and suspended about 8cm AGL so u can wash the floors.. may need to remove the plinth plastic cover strip.

Built in oven at 3000W is running at over redline 2990W for that 13A socket. We use 230V. Officially when it does not come from factory with a 13A plug means it was not meant to be used with a 13A plug. It is meant for fixed installation. Your oven, uses as much power as a water heater so it is best to use fixed installation method using 20A-rated components that are safely in range.

You can use one of these isolators as the control for switching it on and off:
see https://s.lazada.com.my/s.dDXLo "one stop solution" coz box and all fit nicely in one. everything has its proper position and place to be.

cheaper way use the MK water heater switch (20A), add box and cable gland. Get the MK 20A switch becoz it has two terminals for joining the earth wires.

It may be possible to convert over an existing 13A wall socket to the oven's isolator.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 27 2021, 03:02 AM

Fridge cabinet 900mm wide can support most two door but SBS range limiter ya. Ensure enough clearance vs the fridge you intend to buy for width and height.

Sorry, I typed on phone, it supposed to be limited. A lot of SBS fridge is wide at 900+ width.

For Ikea Metod and all non-alu kitcab in that price range the common enemy is water. It will be easier to change bits like drawer fronts and stuff from Ikea coz its standardised measurement. I have an old door from non ikea cabinet (ie the door under the sink) needing replacement but this was made in 1997 so its hard to get replacement.

Personally I use ikea metod for my own place and keep it dry, no problem.

My comment on practicality: Your layout need to allocate some space to park dishes whilst cooking and/or after washing as well. Unless you are planning to have those above sink kinda dish rack for drying.

Looks like existing sink will be smaller and D shaped..the ikea sink is actually more squarish so it will avoid gap. The base cabinet CAN-use lah with existing sink but there will be a funny gap ya. Check pipe runs in X Y axis from the water point and drain point so the planned drill holes do not clash with the pipe runs.

Option one confirm fit well.

Custom made can be variable quality as its not that "easy" to trace the outline of a 3D curved object like the existing sink to do rounded cuts.

Sis here u can give it away in fb like buy nothing project (klang valley) if still usable..else its considered renovation waste n need to dump in roro bin

Possible but the hard part is to get a KC maker to make new doors following existing dimensions. If ikea sizing ones then should be easier to replace whole "look".

Tiles removal need a rotary hammer (to chisel out). The headache is it wont be cost effective to engage a tiling contractor to do small job..if they wanna do. U can explore possibility of DIY sticking tiles with sika tile cement (premixed cement mix) with those tile spacers + spirit/laser line level. Complexity also depends on whether the existing tiles are decorative in between top n bottom cabinet ONLY, or theres tiles behind existing cabinets..

Ahh that is normal cuz now they're taking up the pent up demand from previous months PKB PKP KBKP lol.

So if want fast.. get stuff from ikea kitcab.. if for rental the cheap and condemnable Knoxhult series modules for 8 ft shud be under 2k.

If want good will be Metod series for 8 ft can range around 5k to 7k depending on fittings and door choices.

Delivery only RM49 for ikea truck.

Once u get the barang already..can call independent installer to install for u. So happen he has the same name as u

INDEPENDENT INSTALLER SUGGESTIONS
for complete installation around Klang Valley can try this guy: 014-3331765 (Mr Ahmad). I think he has more or less the right tools for the job, perhaps a few too many drills but should be fine. https://www.facebook.com/ikeahandymanmy/pho...401254973300020

His past work can be found on his page

https://www.facebook.com/ikeahandymanmy

Adjust the screws. Depending on the hinge some will adjust XY axes only, some better hinges adjust XYZ axes.

Size wise looks tiny. The ikea one seems to allow more usability of the corner space. https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/utrusta-crnr-b...tting-70271272/

U can barely pass that 2 feet if ur using Euro style outlet drain pipe (ikea or teka sink); I did it with v small slope gradient. Must not throw solids into drain.

Boss, pvc =/= foam. PVC is not very flammable but foam may be fire hazard. Pls check accordingly.

Renotalk SG forum got quite a few T-blogs using it. U can check em out too.