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 Chubby Hamsters V5, Fun little furballs

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TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 24 2007, 02:44 AM, updated 18y ago

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^^ HAMSTERS ^^

Old thread Chubby Hamsters V4

A hamster is a rodent belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. There are 5 types of hamsters, mainly the Syrian, Winter white dwarf, Russian campbell dwarf, Chinese hamsters and Roborovski hamsters.

SPECIES:

Syrians (Mesocricetus auratus)
They are the best known species in the pet industry. Syrians are also known as Golden Hamsters. Syrians are known as fancy hamsters of all the hamster species since they come in many colour varieties and also coat varieties... some can have long fur and some short fur, which we normally call Long Hairs and Short Hairs... also there is a fur type known as Rex.

The most important rule about Syrians is that they are SOLITARY... never house 2 together. If breeding, there is a way where you must put the female into the male's cage only when the female is on heat. It is very risky and dangerous to house 2 syrians together at any time since they are very well known to fight till death. So if you treasure the life of your hamster, never put 2 syrians together.

Syrians are large and comfortable to hold. They do make suitable pets for children but under adult supervision.

Campbell's Hamster (Phodopus campbelli)
Campbells are probably the most popular of all dwarf hamsters since they come in many colour varieties that makes them attractive. The look similar to Winter White hamsters but they are actually different subspecies. So never mixbreed them.

Campbells are dwarfs... well, small hamsters. Please do not be fooled by petshops telling you mini hamsters and giving you a weird price. Anyway, they come in different colour and patterns but to breed, one must understand that hamsters that have any white spots or markings must never be bred together coz it can produce eyeless or teethless hamsters that die later... so if you were to breed, please read up.

These dwarfs may not be suitable for young children due to some dwarfs are bitey... and because of their small size, it would be harder for children to handle. Campbells are not aggressive biters, it is just that sometimes they will bite when you make them angry or startle them from their sleep.

Winter White Hamster (Phodopus sungorus)
WW are hamsters that can change their coat colour when we minimise their daylight. Their coats will change from their normal colours to a white coat but with their dorsal stripe and side arches visible. WW come in 3 colours, which are Agouti, Sapphire and Pearl. The Pearl do not change their coat colour at all, they remain in their white coat colour for life.

WW are different from Campbells, their eyes are bigger, fur is thicker, body is more bullet shape and their ears are less conspicious. It is easy to see the difference if a Campbell and WW were side by side.

WWs are nicer to handle for they have better temperments than Campbells. WW rarely change into their winter coats in captivity, so do not force your hamster to starve and stay in a cold room... this depends on the hamster whether it wants to change or not.

Roborovski Hamster (Phodopus roborovskii)
Robos are the smallest species of hamster. Adult Robos are only 2 inches in lenght. Unlike the other dwarfs, Robos do not have a dorsal stripe and they have slightly longer legs. Easy to identify from the size and also its sandy colour and white belly.

Yes, the smallest and also the fastest, this species is very well known for being very fast and active. So they are not very handle friendly since they are likely to jump or run off your palm. Many are really attracted by the facial markings, they appear to have "eyebrows".

Robos enjoy sand baths and a wheel. Due to their small size, one would need to purchase a glass/plastic tank to house them or purchase cages with small bars like the Habitrail Mini...

Chinese Hamster (Cricetulus griseus)
The Chinese hamster is known for their mousy looks. Yes, they were discovered in China long ago. Many people would say Chinese hamsters are hard to breed in captivity and are difficult to raise. Fighting problems occur so it is best to house them seperately. The Chinese hamster is also referred to as a "mouse-like" hamster because of its short nose, thin body, stocky legs and longer tail.

They do make great pets if they are bred by a proper breeder and have been handled often when young.


VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

- Most hamsters do very well alone. Roborovski hamsters can be kept in small groups and best if single sexed but Syrians, Campbells, Winter Whites and Chinese hamsters are best kept on their own. They are always happier that way.

- Never breed hamsters if you do not have the space. Hamsters can reproduce every 20 days or so.

- Hamster fights are never fun to watch.

- Always remember to have food and water available. Never give too much fresh foods.

- The bigger the cage or tank, the more comfortable for the hamster.

- Syrians need wheels that are about 8 inches in diameter.

- NEVER keep different species in 1 cage or tank together... BIG big trouble there, may have some injuries, deaths... and possibility of mixbreeding Campbells with WW... bad idea.

- Hamsters do not have human emotion, they do not feel Love or have emotional feelings like humans. So there really is no reason to breed them unless you have a purpose as a true hamster breeder.

- Hamsters can get sick easily if given too much fresh foods like fruits and vegetables.



Anything to add in the 1st page, just PM me.


Added on February 26, 2007, 1:56 amPictures of the different hamster species with some example of a few colour varieties.

user posted image

Thank you to Reanne and |sorcerer| for their chinese hamsters and roborovski pictures.

One way to hold a hamster if it bites or to look at it's genital area clearly. Never do this for long since it is a bit uncomfortable for the hamster. Only for a short period.
user posted image

______________________________________________________________________________

Useful links (credit to Acey)The Hamster Name Generator (thanks to Gazard7)

(credit to suicidalxbliss)
user posted image

Lowyat.net Siggy (free to use, a big thank you to Hao tongue.gif ):
user posted image


Added on February 26, 2007, 9:25 pmA Basic Guide

* Hamsters are very active creatures so they do need their excercise. Naturally energetic, hamster love to run so it is best to provide a good solid wheel for them. Makre sure it is a solid wheel and not those mesh wheels since those gaps can cause injuries. Syrians should have 8 inch diameter wheels while dwarfs can have smaller ones.

* Hamsters are nocturnal, meaning they are mostly active at night. During the day, they would need some peace and quiet to sleep so it is highly recommended to place the cage or tank away from direct sunlight and provide them with a hide such as a clay flower pot or aroma burner or any solid looking hamster houses available at petshops.

* Hamsters need a layer of quality bedding in their tanks. You can always get the wood shaving variety but you would need to change the bedding often. Recommended brands would be Chipsi Classic, Chipsi Super, Delikate and Kaytee. Avoid using other brands for pine and cedar wood can cause breathing problems later in life due to the phenol oils produced by the wood. One can also use corncob bedding, wood pellets like Woody Pet or Careline wood cat litter or recycled paper bedding/litter like CareFresh or Breeder's Select/Celect.

* Hamsters love to nibble on hay and also build nest in their hide box for comfort. So providing a bit of hay is good. Any hay is suitable, as long it is fresh looking(greenish). Avoid stale hay(brownish).

* Hamsters should have a good amount of food in their food bowls. You do not need to worry about hamsters not finishing their food for they will hoard away old food to eat later. Make sure fresh foods are cleaned out of the cage or tank after 24 hours.
- Good source of fiber would be broccoli, spinach, sawi(choy sum), kangkung and water cress. Do feed fresh foods in moderation since too much can cause wet tail sickness and indigestion. A small piece of vegie or fruit is enough for 1 day.
- Sweet potato and normal potato can be given but only give cooked potatos.
- Sweet fruits and carrots can be given in small quantities every few days.
- Hard boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, cooked chicken and cooked fish can be fed.

* Have a good quality bottle for water at hand. Cheap bottles tend to leak.

* Wash the hamster cage or tank once in a week. Just wash with some mild soapy water. Clean cages and tanks prevents the risk of getting infections.

* Hamsters do not need to bath with water and soap like humans. Hamsters can clean themselves very well and they enjoy having sand baths (Chincilla or hamster sandbath) more than getting wet. A wet hamster can fall sick easily.

* Handle your hamster daily. Build a relationship with your hamster. You can hold them, talk to them and pat them. These little gestures will keep your hamster tame and friendly and of course, happy.

* Never wake up sleeping hamsters since they can startle easily and give a nasty bite to protect themselves. This is an instinct reaction so do not blame a hamster for being aggressive... they bite when there is a reason to bite.

* Always wash your hands after handling hamsters for they are still from the rodent family. Keep your self healthy for your hamster smile.gif


Added on February 26, 2007, 11:44 pmPictures of LYN members' tank setups:
user posted image

Pictures of suitable cages available in the market
user posted image


Added on February 27, 2007, 8:41 pmFor the 1st page, please post important or useful info of hamsters. You can also post pictures of your cage setups as an example. I will delete those that are just spam to make the 1st page clean and easy to read for new hamster owners.

Updated pictures of LYN member's hamster housings.
[attachmentid=216791]
picture from dj.eRicZzz


QUOTE(bizen @ May 30 2007, 05:26 PM)
blink.gif  I found some articles and 1 of it is about hamsters... I bought it a few years back when I am still in high school  laugh.gif ... and I would like to share it with everyone here  tongue.gif 

Here is the link:

Hamster Guide 01

Hamster Guide 02

Hamster Guide 03

Hamster Guide 04

Have fun reading  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Jun 24 2007, 02:51 AM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 24 2007, 02:46 AM

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Information:
QUOTE(Reanne @ Apr 9 2007, 04:46 AM)
Steps when your ham has just given birth.

1) Put them in a quiet place of the house.
2) Do not disturb them except for refilling food and water.
3) Do not change the bedding no matter how smelly it is for the next 21 to 24 days.
4) Remove the male. If not you'll have another batch of pink wriggly things in approximately 20 days.
5) Add protein rich supplements such as:-

-Fresh veggies -> Broccoli, alfalfa sprouts, carrots, watercress, choy sum etc. Make sure washed well. Avoid onions, garlic.

-Fresh fruits -> Apple, banana, papaya, honeydew, pear, mango etc. Do not give avocado and citrus fruits.

-Other protein rich stuff -> Wheatgerm, japanese soft tofu, hard boiled egg white, crickets, mealworms etc. Do not give milo or anything containing cocoa.

6) DO NOT TOUCH THE BABIES. If you really want to peek, wait for at least 3 - 4 days, then use the end of a pencil or brush, rub it in the bedding before gently prying a little to see the pinkies.

Reasons to why most or all the babies do not survive or disappear.

1) The mom feels that she does not have enough nutrition to suckle so many babies. She will cull the weakest one first.

2) The mom feels scared or threatened, so her instinct tells her to cull the babies so that she will have the nutrition and get away in order to be able to have another batch of babies in the near future instead of just leaving the babies to the predator/threat. In the wild, if she thinks that the predator is so darn near and gonna eat her any minute, she'll make a run for it. Leaving the babies without a choice.

But as pets, they don't have that option.

3) The baby is sick/injured and/or dying. She will instinctively kill it so that it hasn't a chance to pass whatever that made it sick if it's an infectious disease, and/or eat it to regain lost nutrition.

NOTE: If the baby dies, most ham mothers WILL eat their babies because if she just leaves it, the stench of rotting flesh will attract unwanted company.

4) She's not a good mom. Though most hams are good mothers, there are bound to be a few that will not suckle their babies and probably just step on them a lot. This will need extra attention to spot so that the unattended pups can be given to a foster mother.

Do not confuse this behaviour when seen in the first few hours after birth. It's normal, especially for first time moms, to ignore their pups for the first few hours. Just leave them be and they will usually know what to do.

A few clear rules

1) All pregnant females should be given their own cage each to nurse and have the pups grow. Do ensure there is enough room for them to exercise and run about.

2) DO NOT KEEP A PAIR TOGETHER FOR THE SAKE OF HAVING A PARTNER. A single sex pair is sufficient for that purpose.

3) Syrian hamster matings MUST be supervised. Syrians are SOLITARY, meaning they cannot live together.

4) Do not breed if possible. Breeding is not a FUN thing for them. It's a burden that will shorten their lifespan, nothing more.
*
QUOTE(Reanne @ Feb 27 2007, 10:27 PM)
OK! Bedding Reviews!

Bedding reviews

- Any beddings that contain raw percentage of phenols will not be reviewed here as I do not recommend them at all. If anyone's wondering, phenols are hydrocarbons that are released by softwoods such as pine and cedar that can promote liver, lung and intestinal problems when housed on. Pets such as hamsters, rats and gerbils can be severely affected by such hydrocarbons in a very short amount of time due to their high-metabolism and oxygen intake.

If you find it hard to imagine, then take disinfectant or lysol, drench a cloth with it, then sleep on it. This is exactly what's happening to your beloved pet. The germicidal properties from disinfectant is commercially extracted from pine and cedar sap. Imagine what it can do to their sensitive lungs and liver.

- Absorbency > To rate how good the absorption and odour control is.
- Cleanliness > To rate whether it's messy or neat.
- Dust content > To rate whether the dust content is high or low. A higher rating means lower dust content.
- Appearance > To rate whether it looks presentable, dull or just plain ugly.
- Advantages > Self explanatory.
- Disadvantages > Self explanatory.
- Status > Comments and recommendation.
10 = A must try
9 = Very good
8 = Quite good
7 = Good
6 = Okay
5 = Satisfactory
4 = Not so good
3 = Not good
2 = BAD
1 = Caution. Try at own risk.
0 = You have been warned

Kaytee

Aspen
- Absorbency > 6
- Cleanliness > 5
- Dust content > 6
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > Economical, does not contain phenols(safe), good for building nests.
- Disadvantages > A little dusty, absorbency is rather average and due to absence of phenols, inspection for any mites is advised before purchase.
- Status > Neutral

Pine
- Absorbency > 6
- Cleanliness > 6
- Dust content > 7
- Appearance > 6
- Advantages > Economical, contains minimal phenols due to being kiln-dried.
- Disadvantages > Should be changed regularly as it does not contain the phenols that help suppress the smell of defacation. Will release a rather pungent      odour if not changed regularly.
- Status > Neutral

Kaykob
- Absorbency > 4
- Cleanliness > 7
- Dust content > 9
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > No phenols(safe).
- Disadvantages > Will turn moldy when exposed to humidity or when not changed regularly. Can attract mites. Can be very noisy when dug into due to it      hitting the tank walls.
- Status > Recommended for low-urine producing pets. eg. Gerbils.

Chloropyhll pine

- Absorbency > 7
- Cleanliness > 7
- Dust content > 7
- Appearance > 7 (I like the appearance)
- Advantages > Minimum phenols due to being kiln-dried. Absorbency slightly better than the regular Kaytee pine.
- Disadvantages >  Should be changed regularly as it does not contain the phenols that help suppress the smell of defacation. Will release a rather pungent        odour if not changed regularly.
- Status > Neutral

Breeder Celect & B2N (Back2Nature)

- Absorbency > 8
- Cleanliness > 9
- Dust content > 9
- Appearance > 5
- Advantages > Clean and neat. No phenols at all. Enviromentally friendly (Made from recycled newspaper) Good absorbency. Easy to clean.
- Disadvantages > More expensive. Dull appearance.
- Status > Recommended

Woody Pet wood pellets

- Absorbency > 10
- Cleanliness > 8
- Dust content > 8
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > Very good absorption.
- Disadvantages > Rather heavy due to high compression. Quite hard, but can be seasoned by sprinkling water introducing pet. Strong woody smell.
- Status > Recommended for high ammonia producing pets. eg. Syrian hamsters, hedgehogs, guinea pigs, rabbits, stinky male sugar gliders.

Sluis comfort bedding

- Absorbency > 5
- Cleanliness > 5
- Dust content > 1
- Appearance > 3
- Advantages > I don't see any.
- Disadvantages > Extremely dusty. I had trouble breathing when i used it.
- Status > Not recommended.
*
QUOTE(Reanne @ Jun 24 2007, 07:51 PM)
This thread is dedicated to the countless clueless people that open threads just to ask about (read topic) and waste time by waaaitinnnng for other experienced people to reply. While waiting, anything could go wrong.

The Ultimate Rule

Now, the ultimate first and foremost thing you should do is DO NOT TOUCH THE BABIES!

Why? Because the mother might eat them, that's why.

Now 'Why would the mother eat them?' you ask?

-When hamster babies are born, known as pups, they have no scent and the mother recognizes it as her own because of her instincts. If you touch it, they will smell like something else and she will not recognize it as her offspring, but rather as something that's not supposed to be there, or she will mistake it as another female's pup. Being defensive that it may harm her babies, she will attack it and eat it up, brains, limbs organs and all.

Cannibalism is not uncommon for hamsters as it is a form of protection. Though you may have obeyed the first rule, it doesn't mean all the pups will 100% survive.

If the environment is stressful(Lots of noise, in a busy area, too bright etc), the nutritional requirements are not enough, or even if the mom is just not a good mom, you may lose from one to all your pups.

The First Rule

Give her as much food as she wants and supplements.

Oh, does that mean give her what she likes? Can I give her only kuaci?


No. Kuaci aka sunflower seeds are not good if she takes a lot. It's empty fats and not enough for her to raise a healthy bunch of babies. Giving only kuaci is like you living on peanuts. BUT, this doesn't mean you should feed her kuaci at all. Give her small amounts as sunflower seeds have Vitamin E and carbs, but very fattening.

Then what can I feed her?

First off, are you feeding her a good basic diet? No delikate or Bengy please. They not balanced at all and they're cheap because they're very low in quality, meaning very low in nutrition.

Good basic brands are Harry Hamster and Prestige, Sluis is also quite alright. No idea where to get these? You can try Pet Safari or Pets family.

Supplements are fresh fruits, vegetables, hard boiled egg white, wheatgerm, organic grains such as amaranth, raw peanuts, buckwheat, flaxseeds etc. Mealworms and crickets are great as treats as well as protein.
TO BE CONTINUED< HAVE TO GO DINNER. If wait later to post, my sister will close the tab. smile.gif
*
This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Jun 25 2007, 10:18 PM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 24 2007, 02:49 AM

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TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 24 2007, 03:05 PM

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Hahha... anyone who wants me to include their set up picture, PM me lah..... of course with your pics together so I can create a page lah.
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 25 2007, 09:24 PM

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QUOTE(locco81 @ Jun 25 2007, 11:22 AM)
V5 already...huhu  rclxms.gif

just bought new home for my cici and oggy laugh.gif
*
Is that critter trail mini?

If it is, the it is too small for 2 dwarf hamsters .... should have gotten the normal critter trail or the critter trail 2.
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 25 2007, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(coldfusionpower @ Jun 25 2007, 10:37 PM)
wanna ask sumthing . the habitrail tubes are just to big for robos. can i use the one for mice ? since they are small right ..
*
Habitrail mini is meant for robos lah LOL.... so the tubes meant for the Mini cage, which you say is for mice, is for robos.
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 26 2007, 08:54 PM

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QUOTE(liez @ Jun 26 2007, 12:35 PM)
huh??? My fren gave his sugar glider run thru it...

Anyway...

1)I bought Sluis comfort hay yesterday...And  mad.gif found out that they are all actually straws ...Wow...Straws poked ...Can I know what is better hay? Cheaper as well?
2)Can I try to feed them with lemon? Since none of u dare to do it...  blush.gif  thumbup.gif  Maybe they will be loving it...
3)Anyone tried to feed them with chocolate as my favourite desert is choco too... whistling.gif
*
Are you trying to post for fun? Coz the lemon and chocolate questions are 2 very stupid questions. Lemons are acidic and acidic fruits can cause the animal to have diarrhea and also kill it. Chocolate is a potent poison to small animals, same as garlic and onions...

Sluis comfort hay is hay.... straw is different. Straw doesn't poke, is softer and thinner.... hay comes in different grades, the high quality grades are for food while the lower quality grades are for bedding. Straw is not edible.
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 26 2007, 11:20 PM

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QUOTE(liez @ Jun 26 2007, 11:12 PM)
coz I am comparing Sluis hay to another brand of hay which looked more like leaves...so I thought Sluis hay were straws actually...
*
Comfort hay is for bedding... to sleep on. The leafy ones are the 1st cut hay, more for food.
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 27 2007, 09:25 PM

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QUOTE(silencio87 @ Jun 27 2007, 08:46 PM)
Yea,i have wood bloc...i guess he got bored with it hmm.gif
Maybe i should give him tissue box for him to bite or play??
Thanks smile.gif  rclxms.gif
can i give him cheesedale cheese? How much can i give him?
Besides his hammies food,i giv him cat food and our food but not much,just very little.

However,my other hammy refused to eat any other food,he just want his hammies food-corn,sunflower seeds,(the hamsters food,etc)How can i make him eat some other food,he needs to enjoy life too rite sweat.gif There's a lot of tasty food out there tongue.gif....and i do know ,not all food hammies can eat some are just not for them smile.gif
thanks
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Give small boxes that's made of cardboard of the middle part of the toilet roll.

Food, you can introduce many types of food. What hamster food are you feeding? Prestige and Harry Hamster are top quality hamster food. The 2 brands contain less corn and sunflower seeds, making the food healthier. It has pellets which my hamsters and gerbils love. Well, for me, I make a large mixture of different foods since I have about 18 hamsters and 24 gerbils. A good mix would be Prestige on its own.... or you can do what we mostly do to save a bit of money, we normally mix Prestige with Habitrail.

You can introduced cooked chicken meat as well but make sure it's boiled meat, no oil. Mealworms are also readily eaten. Vegies like carrots, sawi, broccoli, cabbage and long beans are liked by them too. Crunchy fruits are a welcome but avoid anything sour and make sure all the seeds from apples, pears, grapes are taken out. No watermelon.

This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Jun 27 2007, 09:32 PM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 27 2007, 09:33 PM

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QUOTE(liez @ Jun 27 2007, 12:36 AM)
Anyone...

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

body building hammiez...
user posted image

Er...This is how I construct the bedding...Hay, wood shavings, and some natural hay and grasses....Well...I put the hay into their house and they push them out.... Lol...
user posted image

So...My current cage now...may be building a second one sooner or later... Nothing much- silent wheels, critter canteen water bottle, foods at the 1st floor as they always push hays and beddings into the foods...and it is also easier for them to take foods and put into their house.
user posted image

Some stocks estimated can be used for 1 year....habitrail foods in the tupperware, beddings of woodshavings, Sluis hay...
user posted image

Well...Lastly...Crazymouse scolded me not to give them lemon and chocolate as they are my favourite deserts... cry.gif So.... brows.gif  But...So...
brows.gif  I am gonna tried some branded dog foos on them...well...HUn...NO one dare to ...hohoho  thumbup.gif  wub.gif But Hill's Science Diet is a veterinarian recomended BRANDED BRANDED BRANDED pet food...
complete nutrition, highly digestible, great taste, healthy skin and fully shiny coat  wub.gif etc...

user posted image

See wad to try next time...Anyone there again?
*
You seem to like to dare feed this and dare feed that... you feed lah, your hamster dies then don't you come crying into this forum saying your hamster dead and you dunno what is wrong. Lemons are acidic, hamsters can't even take orange so if lemon how? Die lah. Chocolate? Hmmm.... is there any hamster food in the world that adds chocolate? What ever you eat, not everything a hamster can eat. If you love your hamsters, you would be doing more research instead of risking their lives with human food.

Your cage is too small.... and cages are the worst type of housing for hamsters since:
1) dirty
2) hurts their feet

Even if get them cages, the best is Habitrail or Critter trail.... also, placing the food bowl on the 2nd level is wrong. You want your hamsters to eat and sleep everytime? By putting the food bowl at the bottom level, you will give it an opportunity to climb up and climb down. Burying their food under hay and woodshavings is common for it is a natural instinct.

If you keep the hamster food for 1 year, you have to keep it in a air tight container and keep it inside the fridge. Grains left in warm areas(our environment is warm and humid) tends to cause mold to grow on hamster food, resulting in sick hamsters later on.

You keep saying branded food as if we are dumb and dunno how to distinguish between low quality and high quality. The food Habitrail and Science Hill's Plan/Diet are 2 low quality products. I guess you do not know what is Prestige, Kaytee, Orijen, Acana, Harry Hamster, Royal Canin and California Natural. The "brands" you are using are ok... but it is not the best and healthiest.

QUOTE(silencio87 @ Jun 27 2007, 03:19 PM)
one of my hamsters is always making noise in the morning around 4-5 am doh.gif doh.gif He'll climb up the cage and start biting the cage...how to stop him doing that? unsure.gif
*
Your hamster is acting normal. The cage biting syndrome is normally associated with cages. This is why most of us prefer tanks. I use storage boxes and plastic aquariums.... it gives the hamster a safer home as well as less stressful to their health. Biting on the bars can lead to liver damage since rust is ingested....

QUOTE(bebee @ Jun 27 2007, 03:26 PM)
i used to feed my hamster with almonds & hazelnut tongue.gif
*
Nuts are a great source of healthy fats.... Cashew nuts are great.

QUOTE(silencio87 @ Jun 27 2007, 03:30 PM)
He has a wheel in his cage...he's very active when everyone's asleep..he's not like this before hmm.gif Ever since i got him a new cage,he's different.
He plays the wheel then climb up and starts biting ...doh.gif  hmm.gif
*
He is bored.... what type of cage are you using? Hamsters living in tanks or aquariums do not show any of these boredom signs...

QUOTE(bryanyeo87 @ Jun 27 2007, 04:44 PM)
want to ask ar, can i feed hamsters durian? coz they were looking and sniffing at me when i was eating it lolz....
*
Durian.... hmmm.... I don't think it is advisable coz it may give the hamster diarrhea....

QUOTE(bebee @ Jun 27 2007, 06:20 PM)
i feed my hamster with cheese tongue.gif
*

]

Cheese is a good source of calcium. Of course do not go overboard and feed the whole slice lah. Just a bit will do. Cheese also causes their pee to become extra smelly.

QUOTE(Yunaforever @ Jun 27 2007, 07:57 PM)
this picture so funny oh  laugh.gif  laugh.gif  laugh.gif .. and he don look like a hamster here...lolz..
p.s : that is biscuit and peanut... actually is mine.. just let he eat abit then throw,cos im too full liao...  tongue.gif
*
Hoho... very adorable. Hamsters love peanut butter but do not give too much since it can cause some hamsters and other rodents to be sick.

TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jun 27 2007, 10:38 PM

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Yups... a mixture of Prestige with any other type is ok coz you already have a base with prestige.... it means you still giving good nutrition.
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post Jun 27 2007, 11:49 PM

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QUOTE(coldfusionpower @ Jun 27 2007, 10:40 PM)
owh .. ok .. good to hear that ..
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As long not only habitrail alone, then is good lah.... Kaytee is ok. LM Farms pulak got 2 types.... get the one with added fruits, better but of course more expensive lah. tongue.gif
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post Jun 28 2007, 04:54 PM

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QUOTE(locco81 @ Jun 28 2007, 03:08 PM)
almost two months under my custody this two never fight...

just now the male harmed the female doh.gif ...so I make them seperated

so what to do arr?

buy another cage?
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Hamsters do not do well in a cage.... your cage is too small for 2 hamsters so they fight for space, even male and female will fight so don't ever listen to petshops or your feelings that says hamsters need friend or sex coz they actually prefer to stay alone.

Separate them. Get another cage or a bigger tank for the other hamster. Do not introduce them together anymore for it can do more harm than good later.

QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Jun 28 2007, 03:52 PM)
the other day i saw my hamster's 'balls' (testicals) got some sorta pimple/tumor.... inside got yellowish color and it is bulging....

yesterday i check again, its gone adi... and i notice got abit blood stain at his testicals there...

could it be my hamster poke, press out the 'thing', and clean it up himself??.....
*
It's called boil or pimple lah.... they dunno how to press it but the boil will naturally burst so the hamster would clean the wound.
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post Jun 29 2007, 11:45 PM

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QUOTE(khaneys @ Jun 29 2007, 12:17 PM)
Anyone pernah see white robo??

user posted image rclxub.gif
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It is not called white robo... it is White Face Robo... also known as Husky robo.

QUOTE(liez @ Jun 29 2007, 04:57 PM)
Won't they swallow the tissue roll as well?
erm...Cage is not good housing for hams...But it seems that hams is the only pet fits in cages compared to hedgehog, sugar glider, gerbils etc....if hams is not fit also...Why producers are producing cages now adays? As cages are selling in everywhere...1st thing comes to consumers mind is cages for hamster... But if there isn't anyone selling then everyone will buy tanks for hams ...

ey...habitrail is the brand u ask me buy for my ham dat day =.= via pm =.= when I asked u wad food to buy ler...
lastly...the hill's science diet plan is juz a joke ler for saying it is brand...since it is a dog food...i got it free when i bought hams stuffs in a shop... They gave me those packets...  rclxms.gif
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Ahem, only habitrail and critter trail are good cages.... what you bought is what factories produce to make profit. Hagen was one of the 1st few dominating small animal brand, they produced cages to suit small animals but many manufacturers make cages which are not suitable for hamsters. I did say Habitrail and Critter trail are safe cages. What you use can easily injure them. Now there are companies and even in thailand they are producing quality tanks for hamsters already coz they do know the dangers....

You were feeding an unbalanced diet at first.... then of course I introduce Habitrail coz it is basic but if you compare quality over other brands.... Habitrail is low.... You were boasting about you dare and we don't dare sort of stuff.... these things we do not take lightly.

Never joke here, if you want to joke, go Kopitiam to joke.

QUOTE(silencio87 @ Jun 29 2007, 05:22 PM)
Yea im rather worried about my hamster biting the bars....so i put those toys the cadboard thing you said earlier...and he's no longer biting the bars only once a while. The cage i used is the normal cage the standard cage for hamsters.
But how come hamsters dont show sign of boredom when they are put in the tank?  I mean....wont they get to play climb up the bars and go into their upper house with ladder or such? unsure.gif 
Peanut butter..so cute  wub.gif Hmm..so today's snack will be lil bit of cheese for both my hamsters rclxms.gif Tmrw will be peanut butter smile.gif *need to go buy peanut butter first*
thanks a lot for the help  smile.gif
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Bar biting is... well, said before as a sign of boredom and also it is addictive... a habit. When in a tank, they cannot do such things.... the only activity which you will see is the sign of boredom is that they try to jump up the corners or un up and down a bit.... after that, they get tired and go back to running on their wheel or chew the cardboard stuff. Hay also makes great activity as some hamsters will chew on the hay or make tunnels and nest.

cage biting can cause sore noses too.... they do love to climb so when we keep in tanks, it is good to put toys for them. Tubes, wheels.... you can even make your own play gym with ice cream sticks and PVA glue, which is non-toxic and safe. If you got a creative mind, you can actually get some stuff from IKEA to make your own double storey tanks....

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post Jun 30 2007, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(kembara @ Jun 30 2007, 12:25 AM)
oo...white faced robo..i heard that before...but never seen one...

agree with hun in how to make a tank can function like cage...


Added on June 30, 2007, 12:35 amabout three days i didnt enter this forum...
we see some newbies..
i would like to say welcome to all our new friend..
and gudluck in keeping hamster..
a responsible hamster owner is the one who already make best preparation and do many research before having the hamster.. smile.gif
*
Well... it is all about creativity. If we think about hamsters in the wild.... do they climb trees? No right? Do they hide in high places? No also..... All the ladders and 2nd storey in cages all come from human creativity but many do not see how practical they are.

I saw hamsters break or sprain their legs before in those cheap cages.... I actually have 2 of those cages but already keep in store room, will never use again. To me, those single storey cages are still good enough coz it is a bit natural for them. I will only say Critter trail or Wild or Habitrail as good cages but then hamsters will still do the cage biting thing but the hamsters won't be able to injure their legs while climbing.

Anyway, White Face robos can be easily found in Singapore.... in Malaysia... well, so far I have see in Pet Safari but the 4to 6 they have there have been reserved. This is a new mutation of the robos colour coz robos are actually still in their wild agouti coat(the gold with ticking). White face robos are just robos with more white on their sides, face and appear slightly lighter than normal robos.

Newbies come in to learn or ask about problems memang we encourage.... but newbies not taking it seriously will of course just create spam in this thread.....
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post Jul 1 2007, 12:40 AM

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QUOTE(boonleng @ Jun 30 2007, 03:51 PM)
as item for hamster to chew.. is mineral stone suitable for them to chew?
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Yes, the mineral stone is good for calcium and minerals as well as teeth but normally they won't gnaw on it often... maybe once a while. A female that is breeding would chew the stone more often.

QUOTE(goldfries @ Jun 30 2007, 04:00 PM)
i'm sticking to using glass tanks as hamster habitation. i don't intend to get habitrail cages.
*
Glass tank still the best heheheh. thumbup.gif

QUOTE(dien @ Jun 30 2007, 06:49 PM)
hun, this robo only "out" from white robo perents??  blush.gif
*
Yes.... if you breed a WF with a normal, the babies will come out to have more white on them but they won't look like the original white face lah.... it'll be like a diluted white face robo. This mutation is still new... well, new here that is hahha...
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post Jul 1 2007, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(bizen @ Jul 1 2007, 02:15 PM)
Do anyone know whether Pets More got sell any water bottle?? I only know they sells cages and some food stuffs... >.<
*
Got.... but very limited. If water bottle, Critter Canteen from Pets Wonderland is a good buy....

QUOTE(coldfusionpower @ Jul 1 2007, 03:28 PM)
just wondering . i see at Pet Family.. the full size adult syrian is huge ! how old is them ar ? my syrians small only ..eat alot but still that size.
*
That one old liao.... almost 2 years old. The size is big coz they eat more fatty stuff and live in a cool environment.


Added on July 1, 2007, 11:59 pm
QUOTE(Street Force @ Jul 1 2007, 10:36 PM)
My syrian size now is around 3/4 guys palm..quite big...
btw...wanna ask..why my syrian will botak geh?
the body there...here is da pic...

[attachmentid=256005]  [attachmentid=256006]

OFF TOPIC: HUN!! SG How?
*
How old is your Syrian.... 3/4 size of a guy's palm is normal size ler hahaha.... the big ones we usually see are bigger than a guy's palm.

Botak... could be the bedding or could be old.... sometimes dirty bedding coz them to over groom and have hair loss.

SG coming next week.

This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Jul 1 2007, 11:59 PM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Jul 2 2007, 04:40 PM

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QUOTE(Street Force @ Jul 2 2007, 02:31 AM)
how old ar? hmmm.... around 1 year and 3months old...
is it counted as OLD fella edi?  tongue.gif
*
When a hamster is 1 year old in human years, it means they are 25 years in age.... so your hamster is actually 31 years old.

QUOTE(dj.eRicZzz @ Jul 2 2007, 02:47 AM)
one of my baby died this morning T_T

yesterday night he was fine and all..still give him eat..treats and take him out and play..

this morning i wake up..see him lying on the side only..then i make some sound and he never respond..then i take him out..his eyes close, nose got some blood...i take him out,,make a piece of tissue damp and clean his nose, then try to feed him some water..at first he drink. but a few drops only..then later he refuse to drink already..

then i put him in my spare cage, then he stay there oni...then after abt 5 minutes he crawl a few steps..then few steps again...he looks better then this morning..

after awhile..he stop breathing already T_T

may you rest in peace Mentos
*
RIP to Mentos...

Just some clues to the death... hamsters and most rodents will have bloody noses if they are allergic to the bedding or have lung infection..... another cause is head trauma.

QUOTE(khaneys @ Jul 2 2007, 07:42 AM)
husky robo owner comes in  tongue.gif .hehe juz bought that robo at pasar malam for 10RM only.Actually i have a pair.another one got more white fur .I love penang for their cheap pet  laugh.gif Tq for the info Fr~
*
Wah.... so cheap? LOL.... Penang everything also cheap cheap.

QUOTE(leroy87 @ Jul 2 2007, 09:57 AM)
hemm hey guys, i was thinking of raring a hamster, maybe syrian, but now im planning to learn more about it before raring it. erm
does it fit in a normal fish tank? glass tank.. would it be difficutl to clean the bedding or smth??
*
Glass or plastic tanks are good.... only drawback with glass is that it is heavy..... but it is still possible to keep it there. How big is the tank? If it is 2ft.... a Syrian hamster is perfect and it will be very comfortable there.

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post Jul 2 2007, 09:35 PM

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QUOTE(Shizuru @ Jul 2 2007, 06:39 PM)
Hi,

My Robo gave birth 10 days ago.
Need some advice regarding her diet.
At the moment I'm feeding her with
Sluis Superior menu (her normal everyday diet).
Carrots, apples, cashew nuts and hard boils eggs (started after she gave birth).
Do I need to add anything else or is that enough?
and how about the water, is normal bottle water ok?
*
You have never place a water bottle before? You need a water bottle... females nursing young become dehydrated very fast and also it can cause the female to give little milk.

QUOTE(dj.eRicZzz @ Jul 2 2007, 09:00 PM)
i'm using delikate...from last year >_> nothing happen till now...
*
Maybe that particular one had something wrong. You won't know till you dissect the body. Lung infection is long term.... doesn't happen when you just place the bedding.... it's like lung cancer....
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post Jul 2 2007, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(Shizuru @ Jul 2 2007, 11:47 PM)
Yes, I already visit the thread.
Followed all of the tips given icon_rolleyes.gif
Just wondering if what I done is enough for her diet.
My first time, so I want to make sure.
Huhu.. never place water bottle, I'm not that cruel sweat.gif
No, what I mean is. Is plain water enough or do I need to give extra kind of liquid, like milk or something?
*
Ohhh... coz you said normal water bottle then I assume you didn't give water bottle hahahah.... I think your words should be bottled water.

Yes, normal water is fine... be it from the tap or boiled. You do not need to give anything extra.... you can give small amounts of cheese if you want.

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