Can i modify my CM HYPER TX? Is it illegal? Would is break the CM laws?

well, i actually plan to modify HYPER TX into a waterblock , but i scare it is an illegal. so i asked here 1st.

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 19 2007, 04:58 PM

i dun think its illegal...
if like tat oso illegal, den case mod oso illegal lo...

Well, if you do not sell the idea commercially, should not be a problem. You will (obviously) lose the warranty though.

If modifying something is punishable by law, its usually because its dangerous to do so-like modifying a car severely; the car may not be safe to drive anymore. Otherwise its probably because the manufacturer does not want people to make money from their idea, though its often a double edged sword. For example, overclocking is sort of a modification allowing you to get high performance from a low cost chip, but both Intel and AMD do not disallow it; at most you only lose your warranty. If they disallowed it completely, they would lose sales because its very bad publicity, particularly considering that there are lots of highly respected hardware critics who will look down on such a move.

Back to a lighter note-how do you intend to mod it?

O~ then i should start the modification , thx for answering my question.

Hehe, post up a worklog of how you modded it..very interested to know..

okie , by the way , how to put image into the post?

use imageshack to upload the picture..
make sure u resize it to 800x600..
and then paste the image url by clicking at IMG (when replying post)

looking forward to the worklog

This post has been edited by kalakatu: Jun 18 2007, 10:14 PM

well , i planned to do it like this


i think it will work well, and it fit with fish air pumps tube size,but a bit too tide.
Well , i gonna start doing it and see the result , it will perform good in my imagination. HAHA and sry for bad drawing.... hope u understand the drawing.

Better if you make all 3 tubes flow in parallel. Going through so many passes though the tubes will kill water flow because of the high restriction.

Be very careful when you open the heatpipes
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=270141&hl=

i dint actually doing it, my brother helped me out , but this idea is mine, haha

Here`s the 1st heat pipe my brother cutted


The heat pipes seems to be empty inside


Here`s the proof that inside is empty , no liquid , no powder


Here`s my radiator,pump,and reservior. the radiator is from proton iswara air-cond cooling-coil , it size about 9.5" hieght x 9.5 " width without counting the excessive pipe that poped out on top.


Here`s how i make the radiator`s fan , a box with 8x8cm fan attached , the fan on top is still not ready for it go.


Here`s the heat sink that is finished with pipes connected and sealed with P.T.F.E Tape

The temperature will be recorded later , this need sumtimez...

besides of recording the temperature, i need to think out an idea to make my vga cooler into waterblock also.


here the pic of my bga cooler , anyone hav idea to share with me?

---

Added on June 18, 2007, 11:09 pm

wow, joker felers... i think the problem he meet is high pressure.. because of heat and it produce too much pressure and BOOOOOM!!!!

but i using hand-saw , nothing happen to me

---

Added on June 18, 2007, 11:19 pm

forgot to reply upper part suggestion , i dint make it parallel flow because i dint have a 3-ways spread pipe , and now was too late to buy at hardware shop...(for me now is 11PM) so i just make is circular flow

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 18 2007, 11:19 PM

Nice job bro, but there something I must point out about your radiator.

That radiator is not exactly the best choice, because the tubing is a single, very long tube which will mean a lot of flow restriction. Water cooling works best with radiators that have many tubes in parallel. But if that's all you have, then I guess you should just work with it.

The heatpipe isn't empty, its filled with either a liquid or pressurised gas. In your case, it appears empty which probably means it was filled with gas. A heatpipe thats really empty is a quite a poor conductor of heat.

Btw, I think you should modify the title of your thread to something like "self made WC"

hey bro.. u are creative.. looking forward for ur mod.
Pls update it here. Salute u !!

Oh ya , forgot about the title... (edited)>how to change the TITLE????


but it does`t smell anything when i cutted.... , and about the radiator , it actualy not a radiator, it is a cooling coil for air-cond inner unit , but i like to call it radiator, HAHA



Thx for your appreaciation , i`ill try to update more infomation about it performance

---

Added on June 18, 2007, 11:43 pmHere`s the temp ,
room temp :29.5C
cpu temp(idle) :47C (recorded after 5 minit)
cpu temp(load) :50C (recorded when running virus scanner [comodo anti-virus])
cpu temp(full load):58C (using orthos_exe_20060420 recorded after 5 minit)

Rig specification:
E6300 1.8Ghz (donno how to see whether got overclock or not...)
ASUS P5B
512MB DDR2 667Mhz Corsiar
Galaxy 7300GT Premium edition(overclocked) with zalman cooling
Western Digital 250GB Sata
380Watts CM psu (this inculded in casing purcased ,no money to buy higher power)
CM Elite 331 case
Samsung Writemaster 18X

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 18 2007, 11:43 PM

Here`s the temp ,
room temp :29.5C
cpu temp(idle) :47C (recorded after 5 minit)
cpu temp(load) :50C (recorded when running virus scanner [comodo anti-virus])
cpu temp(full load):58C (using orthos_exe_20060420 recorded after 5 minit)

erkk on stok speed idle oredi 47c on water i think its kinda high if it was 3.2ghz or 3.4ghz at that temp it marvelous edi...i saw a forumer forgot who hitting 3.2ghz on WC at 25-35c idle to load.better check if u can improve it some more.looking forward to see ur project can reach those HIGHEND WC kit level or not.

ya..agreed with styloe..i can reach tat temp even with normal air cooling...mayb something went wrong in between ur wc cooler..coz i expect much more than this..hehehe..anyways, gambateh and wish u all the best..
my suggestion :- try put a real 120mm fans instead using those small fan
- use real high quality coolant
- and as one forumer said, mayb u should make 3 of the
flow together..will perform better i think

Click edit on the first post to edit the title.

Your temp is very high for WC, and its obvious why-your WC setup has a lot of restrictions and your unothodox waterblock is not designed to maximise the conductivity of water. Good waterblocks will force water through a narrowed flow section at the part closest to the CPU core to maximise heat conduction. Although restriction is still high, multiple passes are not done because its doesn't have much effect and it will only kill flow rate.

What is the temperature of the water as it comes of from the waterblock? I think it should be quite warm, considering how many passes its gone through-you can just touch the last tube to feel the temp.

The air-cond coil (yes, it can be called a radiator) also has another design flaw you can't do anything about-the tubes are fat, and have nowhere as much surface area as those radiators meant for water cooling systems. If the radiator is not efficient enough, the output end of the radiator will still feel slightly warm.

The best type of radiator for water cooling uses flattened, thin, but wide tubes, allowing maximum surface area. The main radiator for car engines also uses this design, but radiators for air-con are different as they're built to allow the coolant gas to recondense. Flat tube water radiators cannot withstand the same pressure so they are not used for gas.

Its unlikely this design will ever be as good as purpose built water cooling. Its very hard to make by yourself a waterblock that can match the performance of those on the market now. However, it is possible to mod a car radiator to outperform radiators used in PC water cooling, but it would no longer be possible to mount the radiator inside the case.

Better fans would probably help, but it will also depend whether the radiator is actually doing a good job of getting rid of heat in the first place-if the air coming from the radiator doesn't feel warm, then the fan isn't the problem. Forget about 'high-quality coolant'. Distilled water is pretty good already, and some of the coolant mixes are more visicous than water, which is really bad since your WC setup is already very restrictive to start with.

Advantages of coolant
-less corrosion (but frankly, water only does significant corrosion if there are several different metals in the loop, and only starts to have an effect after a few months)
-will not freeze (not applicable, as our climate will never get cold enough)
-less electrical conductivity

Disadvantages
-more visicous (flow rate will be noticably reduce, which is a no-no for WC)
-may cloud tubings and plastic surfaces

i actually get 51C at idle stat when using stock hsf with stock fan,even stock HYPER TX also get 49C at idle stat. So this WC is actually got a bit improve FOR ME.


yea, it seems a bit high , i just put 5% coolant(pennzoil car radiator coolant) and the block is actually a bad design for WC , and now i put 75% of the coolant and it drop to 46C at idle. about the radiator fan, i will change 12cm fan after i buy the fan.


nope, i dint install the original HYPER TX fan, because i wan to c the WC alone performance without external helps.


yea, the flow rate of this WC are DAMN slow because of the size of the tube,and this HSF only go through the baseplate with 3x 6mm heat pipe , it actually had a bad heat transfer between the block and heat pipe , thats why will get a bad result.


nope, the output of the WC does not feel warm , is almost the same between the input and output temp....


i agree with u,good waterblock needs a good tools , this hsf just used hand-saw
so is hard to make a waterblock as good as on the market.



better fan will helps,better coolant will help,but the effect is depends as u told , the radiators , 1st test i had put 5% coolant and i get 47C , now i put 75% coolant and i get 46C , is still an improve

I must say good job to your creativity despite the shortcomings. lohwenli has addressed most of them.

But dude... 75% coolant??? Thats overkill. pure water is still a better heat conductor. I'm perplexed how you managed any temperature drop with that high a concentration of coolant.

Some things to correct from lohwenli's post:



water doesn't corrode. it's a transfer of ions in what you call in layman's term "battery effect". when two incompatible metals are combined in the same loop, you get galvanic corrosion.
in the case of our TS's system, the heatpipes are copper, but what is the "radiator" made of?

I've never heard about that less electrical conductivity however. Pure distilled water is non-conductive. Once you get a tiny contamination of another substance, it becomes slightly conductive already. Same goes for all other non-conductive fluids particularly those that contain mainly distilled water.



coolant additives actually help lubricate the pump to some extent. When you add a minimal amount, it hardly affects flow rates to a noticeable level. But 75%... oh dear.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 19 2007, 06:51 PM

But my pump still work fine and the flow is still strong , the only problem that make the flow rate decrease is the size of the heat pipe,
(HSF)
external daimeter=6mm
internal daimeter=4mm

(pump)
flow rate=1500 L/H
watts=35
hertz=50
amps=0.25

(material)
Radiator = aluminium
Heat pipe = copper
HSF baseplate = copper

between the baseplate and processor unit putted some thermal grease(manhattan)
not sure is a good brand or fake brand...brought for RM10(no experience in tim)

copper and aluminium... the feared combination. You will definitely get galvanic corrosion even if you add coolant. coolant additives slows down the corrosion process only. I don't suggest you run this combo for a long time.

the pump max head pressure is what matters most, not the flowrate though. the 1500lph is rated at zero restriction and zero increase in pumping height. If your pump doesn't have good head pressure, with a restrictive loop, the resultant flowrate will be much lower.

i`m not sure how to read this but there writen
Hmax = 66/2.00m

yup this is the max head pressure. 2 metres is just average but okay lah for now.

hey, i get a new result , i switched off my com for 1hour without switch off the radiator fan and pump , then i switch on my com and left it for 5 minit and i get 43C

The heatpipes is empty after you cut it open?

This post has been edited by Polar_012: Jun 20 2007, 12:05 AM

The answer for that question is in the post i link below:
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=12122926

Thanks bro guess i missed that part.

About the heatpipe, if its gas, it doesn't need to have a smell..many gases don't have any smell.. Clean air for example, you could tell shit if the air you breathe had more carbon dioxide or nitrogen, as long as it has about 20% oxygen.


I'll take this as a compliment from my WC sifu..

To correct my statement-yes, distilled water is a poor conductor (a couple M ohm) and only becomes noticably conductive when other substances are dissolved in it. Coolant additives are do not conduct because they're organic compounds, and they inhibit water from dissolving other substances which would make it conductive. And less conduction also means less corrosion, as galvanic effects can only happen in a conductive liquid.

Easiest way to detect battery effect/galvanic corrosion-use a multimeter to test any 2 components in the loop which do not have direct contact with each other or metal connecting both of them. If there is galvanic corrosion, a voltage will be present (typically about 0.2-1.0V).


Leave it longer bro, and the temp will be the same again.

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Jun 20 2007, 01:15 AM

We're always learning.
Ah... that makes sense now that i remember. Propylene Glycol and Ethylene Glycol are organic chemicals.

Hey there , long time no see , today i hav another mods for my graphic card(7300gt)
Here`s how i start:


by bending the fin of a Ati graphic card heat sink for pipe fitting

Here`s the cover maded by aluminium plate

the cover made to fit exactly nicely into the hsf


Here`s show the cover been drilled 2 holes for pipe


Here`s show the pipe been sealed with silicon and attached to hsf using silicon too


Here`s show the waterblock been locked onto my GPU using the original socket

And here`s the result
GPU Idle : 48C (left for 10minit)
GPU Load : 53C~55C (playing Need For Speed Carbon non-stop for 30minit)
GPU clock: 500mhz
MEM clock:700mhz
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What a dissapointed result......

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 28 2007, 04:59 PM

Its like that la..anyway said before already, your pump tak kuat wan, some more the whole loop so restictive, cekik the water flow like hell.

I hope you're not planning on running this for longer than a month or so. Because you have both aluminium and copper in the loop its just a disaster waiting to happen-aluminium will be corroded off and deposted on the copper.

Like this
http://www.dansdata.com/burning.htm

And if I'm just too damn free, I could make and upload a video of a the came chemical process happening in just a few minutes (accelerated by using an increased concentration of the metals involved).

OMG... but i dont understand wat it mean by - galvanic corrosion...
it seems like corrision of some acidic substance to me.
and it looks like he dint put any coolant inside the water, could it be the cause of the galvanic corrosion?

if my vga waterblock also happen, i dont want to use WC ANYMORE!!!!! will support air cooling

galavanic corrosion is not due to liquid content.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Correct. It is not directly caused by the liquid, but the presence of different metals in a watercooling loop that uses a liquid that can conduct electricity. I'm not trying to scare you here, but I have to point it out to you before something happens like corrosion blocking the water flow or causing the system to leak.

Water cooling sets where only a single metal is used will not suffer from galvanic corrosion (not noticable at by all accounts). In your case, you'll need to isolate the metals from each other by coating the surfaces that are in contact with water (eg varnish) or use a non conductive liquid.

---

Added on June 29, 2007, 12:04 amCoolant will slow down galvanic corrosion, but it will still happen unless you use a lot (which will f*** up cooling performance as it will slow down flow rate).

Don't give up now, your idea has truly been 1 of a kind..there are ways to solve the problems, keep trying.

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Jun 29 2007, 12:06 AM

TS, you are indeed very very creative. What should i say, 1st ever in LYN.

This r my suggestions, get a better Rad and use a stronger pump, tats all.

Bro TS... this is the problem that some beginner WC'ers assume and then turn back to air cooling. Galvanic corrosion is not because of water cooling. it is because u mix incompatible metals, which in this case, is copper and aluminium. Over time, the aluminium in the loop will get corroded by copper until you burst a hole right thru in one of the aluminium components. You learn this in chemistry in your school.
This is why manufacturers always make sure they use compatible metals in the same loop; like for example, copper, brass, and nickel are fine together. copper and aluminium are not. However, you still see some companies mixing them, but they plate it stuff like gold(zalman), zink+cobalt(swiftech), and also anodizing. But, none of these are guaranteed to prevent corrosion coz once there is a tiny hole in the plating or anodizing, you have already opened room for corrosion. Plating is more reliable as claimed by some manufacturers.

Nevertheless, this has been a good learning experience for you.

is that copper .. or aluminium wor o_O

I myself said is was certainly creative for the TS to do this, and I applauded him for that.

I think u mixed up phase change and TEC(peltier) cooling. I believe what you are referring to 'using electricity' is TEC(Peltier).

It is the aluminium parts that get corroded mind you, that is your radiator. And then they get deposited on the copper block. Maybe you don't notice the deposits on the copper block because you empty your loop frequently. You don't notice corrosion doesn't mean it doesn't happen, it's probably slower. I don't encourage tempting fate and the laws of science. The old swiftech waterblock that had an anodized aluminium top was known to have visible corrosion within 18 months despite running coolants.

In the case where you have an aluminium radiator along with other copper components, worst case scenario, what will happen is on the inside of the aluminium radiator is it will continue to corrode the aluminium tubing walls until one day you have a hole(or holes) in the radiator.

While I applaud the TS for this project, I still don't advice running copper and aluminium in the same loop for a long term. I'm just giving advice to be cautious, not to discourage anyone.

Cheers.

wah lau... TS respect from us... u r indeed very very very creative although the craftmanship is so so, but 'U r da man!'... dun stop, maybe u can get some copper plater n start wif some new ideas...



This post has been edited by HaHaNoCluE: Jun 30 2007, 09:05 PM

so if i change all cooper to aluminium would it continue to corrode?
it means the WC is all aluminium without any cooper but with coolant.would it continue?

Galvanic corrosion won't happen then.

If its all copper or all alumiunium it won't corrode, even without coolant mix. Important thing is that it must all be the same metal or highly similar metals (eg brass is a mix of copper and tin, so its somewhat compatible with copper).

Another way is to use a non-conductive coolant, as galvanic corrosion requires a conductive liquid to happen. However, I haven't had time to experiment around for one, and its hard to find a liquid which can match the high conductivity and heat capacity of water.

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Jul 1 2007, 08:56 PM

oh my god , wat kind of godly weapon is that....
1 small piece of card board make such result!!!!!
how much would it be for 1 piece?
and wats the advantage/disadvantage?
where to buy? How it works?

Its not cardboard, its stacks of semiconductors (up to about 100). What it does is it forces heat from one side to another, causing one side to lose heat rapidly and build up on the other side. If you can remove heat from the hot side fast enough, the cold side will get colder and colder, and below room temperature is possible.

Advantage
-can easily cool to well below room temperature, even freezing temperature is possible

Disadvantage
-takes up quite a bit of power
-if temperature drops to below room temperature, condensation will form (the water droplets like on teh ais). The processor area will need to be waterproofed using sealants. Read http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/135886 for details.

There are a few forumers selling, generally processors will only benefit from 130W models and above, lower models are only good for cooling graphics or motherboard chipsets. They're also good for cooling drinks without ice

Forumers selling peltiers
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/481613
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/433683
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/447572

Eh correction, its copper+zinc. and yeah its compatible with copper.
Copper radiators are actually brass tubes and plenumb chambers + copper fins.

may i know wat is a postage?
and if i using C2D E6300 , wat wattage of peltier should i choose?
and for 7900gs GPU should take wat wattage of peltier?

Oops, my mistake. Copper + tin is bronze..thanks for correcting me.

But anyway, for those interested to know about metals which are compatible, this is the reactivity list (I've only put metals which might be found in a PC, the rest I've left out)

Aluminium
Zinc
Chrome
Iron
Nickel
Tin
Lead
Copper
Silver
Gold

Metals next to each other will react slowly, while metals far apart will react quickly. I could explain in full how it works, but I'm not here to give a chemistry lesson (Btw, this is taught in Form 4 & 5 Chemistry, unless you didn't take the subject or wasn't paying attention you should already know this). Alloys will generally have slower reaction than either of its component metals, though it varies from case to case.

Bro, before you happily go buy a peltier, better read this first to know what you're doing
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/135886

Though a peltier+watercooling setup is easier to set up than phase change, you still must be careful-condensation is still a big problem you must overcome. About your questions, you'll need a peltier of 150W or more for a C2D, and about 60-100W for a 7900GS. You can always get a higher watt one and run it on a lower voltage, don't have to get the exact wattage.

PS: Postage is cost to send an item to you through Pos Malaysia or courier service.

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Jul 2 2007, 08:44 PM

Yea, i`m ready to take care of it, i`ill think out something to prevent this, but need sometime first, becos next week i got exam and OCT still got PMR exam, need to prepare first especially sejarah , chinese , and bahasa malaysia

Good luck then, with your modding and exams. Respect your enthusiasm bro..very creative Most overclockers chicken out before even reaching up to your level of interest. Me, I'm taking it slow, still working on my WC and 1st major case mod; you can have a look at it when I'm done.

I think it's too restrictive.
HOT water is trapped in the waterblock.

IMO, it doesn't worth the effort.
I think forum member/ngbh is selling better water cooling set than this.

Try using larger waterblock + 1/2" barbs.

This post has been edited by ALeUNe: Jul 3 2007, 05:56 PM

If i were to use a 75w peltier, it won't do any good to my system?
Can it cool my e6600 below room temperature like 20-25 degrees?

wah so fast wanna try peltier oredi ar... i failed last time i tried... but some of the materials r really hard to get...

It won't work. In fact, it will actually be hotter because the peltier will produce heat of its own, which adds to the total on the hot side, and some leaks over to the cold side. A C2D typically has power output of 70W WITHOUT overclocking, so thats a total of about 75+70W=145W on the hot side, and if some leaks over to the cold side it means less than 75W will be removed from the processor (probably 60-70W only).

I tried a peltier at 70-80W on my AM2 X2, and even though the processor was only putting out 65-75W at most, the temp i got was within 1 degree of the usual temp. However, when it went on idle (approx 10W estimated), the temp dropped faster than you can sneeze. From 55C to 25C in less than 5 sec. Had to pull the plug a few seconds later because of condensation (I wasn't expecting temps to drop so fast so i didn't waterproof). No damage because the water didn't have time to ionise and become conductive (pure water from condensation is a pretty bad conductor, until it leaches ions from metals).

yea, it sure doesn`t work great, but think of it, u buy a market water block cost about Rm150 , this thing just cost about rm25, because of i dint work yet(no income) , so i`ill need to do it my self but ofcourse the HYPER TX i bought it using my ang pao money.

why rm25?
the aluminium HSF cost about rm 15 (i bought at rm9.90 , not sure where izzit, i think is somekind of hypermarket with store)
the aluminium plate wont cost a lot (i get it in store room)
silicon cost about rm2.50~rm5 (not sure is around this price, silicon also get in store room)
almost everything of my WC is get from ppl , so this thing doesnt cost me more than rm 50



wat materials hard to get?



so if i take a 130W peltier for e6300 and a 70W for galaxy 8600gt?
(change mind ad , plan to buy 8600gt )



okie, i`ill wait for your share, cant wait to see
but u do it hardcore or softcore?
hardcore = use a lot of tools and stuff with systematic idea
softcore = use a bit tools and stuff with simple idea

I don't know what he's talking about..maybe the stuff for waterproofing?

Forgot that you're still in school..for someone your age this is incredible man..
And your mod is unbelieveably cheap..even though it suffers from the problem of galvanic corrosion

If you're running a 8600GT, you'll need something more than 100W for the GPU to have any appreciable difference, and for the C2D around 150-200W is advisable because the heat will rapidly go up when its overclocked (with the temp you'll get from using a peltier, its a crime not to be overclocking ). You'll also need to use a proper WC system, as the heat load will be enormous; impossible for your current setup to cope. A seperate PSU will also be required to power the peltiers, as peltiers will require an equal amount of power (actually more) as the amount of heat it is removing.

Off topic,
I'm somewhere between casual (is there such a word as softcore?) and hardcore, slowly being poisoned by all the sifus here . The current casemod I'm working on is fairly simple, though it does involve some case cutting and solder modding. For a project in the distant future, I have a small collection of peltiers from allngap and ff7yta which I'm currently experimenting on, going to do an extremely radical approach, I might bring it up for discussion sometime-a case built from scratch with WC as part of the case, with peltiers. This year itself I have enough to keep me busy, have a laptop case, a ancient style case for an equally ancient system, and an ultracompact HTPC case sometime around the year end or early next year. The laptop case and my PC cooling+overclocking experiments will keep me busy for at least the next few months as it is; and still have my USM physics course to do..its a busy life

Read this, peltier+water cooling will achieve something similar to this (peltiers will not be this extreme, but sub-zero temp is still possible)
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/481088

yupe that 'waterproofing' part... i tried it on an old 775 mobo (abit aa-8xe) with 631 (p4 3.0) n 130w peltier... but maybe i didn't have nuf preparation for whole process... but it's always a wonder to see this kid (TS) doing all his diy... will try the peltier again once i have enuf time to install my wc...

hoooray for ts... ehhh, better do ur exam 1st... hehehe

wat is the big big thing that stick on cpu? inside is dry ice or normal ice?
and wat is DI mention in that thread?
wat is the big steel tin that they pouring to cup and freeze???
wat is the red colour thing that stick on mobo around the cpu socket?
is sure look too extream..... i dont think i`ill go for that, thats too big....



later i`ill think out something, starting from this saturday i gonno focus on exam 1st, so i wont reply for the next week.


need until the high wattage ar??


okie, i`ill change this setup later.



later teach me some skill on how to mod case,now i using CM Elite 331

That thing on the CPU is a pot used to contain extreme cooling substances like liquid nitrogen (LN2) or dry ice (DI)-that setup is only used for short periods to set record overclocks, as the coolants are too expensive to use for long term. The red stuff is liquid electrical tape-its like the tape you use to cover wire joins, but you can spread it like glue and it doesn't conduct electricity just like the usual black tape. I don't expext you to follow like them, but the same type of insulation might be necessary if you're using peltiers.

Skill in mod case? You should ask the real sifus around here-ianho, allngap just to name a few. Typing out my worklog now, will probably only post it up in the morning.

peltier is not a good solution for long run and daily usage.maybe it's only good for one time benchmarking .
i've very agree with bro lohwenli anything below 150w is helpless.
i've got one before for myself.actually quite disappointed with the performance ....
for the best cooling sulotion vs trouble vs power consumption for daily gaming and app i'll recommend to go with highend air cool or wc....myself using wc

I agree with that also less stress and maintainance

This post has been edited by Bigblock: Aug 10 2007, 06:59 PM