EDIT: Ok, since I've gotten a lot of questions regarding pelting the rig, before insulating and instaling a pelt, please read this Choosing the Right Pelt Guide first o.k. END EDIT

Even though there are varios methods of insulating and instaling a pelt to you rig form international sites, I still having trouble in getting one to set in my rig especially when using/finding material/tools that are refered to at those mat salleh site . So after some painstaking head banging thought, i'll try this method of insulating and installing a pelt to my existing w/c rig (an op spiral w/c set) using materials there are readlily available in Malaysia.

Objective 1: Insulating the Muthaboard.

The Mobo:

My Abit AN-7 vanilla (without any mod).


The tools:
1. Masking tape = RM 2.50 per roll
2. Old News Paper = f.o.c.
3. CRC Plasticote 80 with UV reactive (availabe at any electronic part shop) or some would prefer the urethene spray. (i'll show you later why i choose CRC Plasticote 80) = RM25.00

Cost = RM 27.50

The Steps:

1. Covering anything which has exposed metal with the masking tape. Approx time taken = 15 minutes.


2. Lay the board on a piece of Surat khabar lama on a flat surface. And spray with CRC Plasticote 80 as per instruction of the can. Here I used 3 layers of coat, with 1/2 hours interval. Approx time taken = 1 1/2 hrs. (be very generous when spraying on and around the slocket are and center slug)


3. O.k. now i'll show you why i choose CRC Plasticote 80 against the urethene spray.


see.. it's UV reactive. Thus i can confirm full coverage by bathing the board with uv light.

4. Now after all is set and fixed(dried) flip the board and start the work on the back side. and confirm the corverage.


continued....

This post has been edited by amok: Oct 4 2005, 04:15 PM

Ok... now come the serios part which is insulating the slocket and slug area.

Objective 2: The Socket and Center Slug.

The tools:

1. BRUSH ON Liquid Electrical Tape (Ace Hardware Ikano: Thanks arj for the recomendation) = RM20.90
2. Syringe (errrr you can get it at certain pharmacy or doctor friend )
* The Liquid Electrical Tape is used to replace conformal coating laquer. = F.0.C
3. CRC dielectric grease (I've got it at brothers car accessories Melaka) = RM 7.50
4. Clossed Cell rubber (any brand will do, i've got it at and air cond parts shop for RM 5 per 1'x4'x 3/8" and RM 4.80 per 1' x 4' x 1/4" neoprene is hard to come by and expensive @ must import) They called it "Insulating Sheet".
5. NT cutter = err... dunno got one in my house.
6. Ruller/measuring stick (steel)= can't remember how much cause ledi have.

Cost = RM 38.20

The steps:

1. Use the syringe to "suck" the electrical tape from the can and fix it around the socket and inside the center slug. Be extra carefull and fast because this liquid harden within minutes, i've coated only two layers and left it to fix for 3 hours. Approximate time taken : applying 20 minutes, drying 3~4 hours. Move the lever in and out from time to time to ensure it doesn't stuck.


2. After that few hours of fixing and drying, the tape will solidfy and harden, test it by touching it with your fingers. If it still lembik or soft leave it to dry some more. Next is to squirt one tube of CRC dielectric grease on the socket and press it in the holes with your fingers. (Don't squirt the tube in one go, do it little by little bit by bit)

Keep pressing/pushing the dielectric grease and move the socket lever in and out till you can see the grease pond in the socket hole (meaning no matter how hard you try to push the grease it just stay there.) I've used the whole tube. Approximate time taken 10 minutes.

3. Now came the "use your immagination and creativity part". The closed cell rubber either neoprene brand or any brand. Just make sure it is clossed cell rubber!!!. Since mine come in sheet, i've to measure and cut it appropriately according to the sizes of the socket, center slug and later the cold plate+TEC assembly. Approximate time 15 minutes ...till forever (if you've no cutting skills.)

I'm using a normal NT cutter to cut, a steel ruler to marks and measure the cutting are and a lighter to lit my ciggarete .

4. Insert a square 1/8" think rubber into the center slug.
Prettty straight forward approximate time 5 ~ 10 seconds.

5. O.K. next is inserting your cpu... err if you wanna do the L12 wire mod do so before this step. Place the cpu gingerly on to the socket and gently swivel it while pushing in. (remember the holes on the socket is filled with dielectric grease thus quite some force is required to push the cpu in) Do so GENTLY but with force. You'll get the idea. Approximate time 5 minutes.


6. Next pust the lever down and fix the prepared insulating sheet around the socket. Straight forward oso, time taken = 2 minutes.

Well i guess that about it then, the mobo is fully insulated.

7. Ok one more the back side story... i've already coated the back side with plasticote 80 but for added assuarance i've brush a layer of electrical tape on the socket pin and stick an isulating sheet on that area. Though some mat salleh said it is unncecessary.. but i'm no mat salleh.

continued...

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 13 2005, 03:54 AM

O.k. mobo done insulating. Now come the pelt assembly part. I'm using a 120W pelt bought from .1. bulk. err forgot what the Imax, Vmax= 15V, deltaT approximately 68~69C. Why only a 120watter? i'd reckon since using only a 45w moble xp and i'm not that keen to get sub zero temps... yet.. and i'm thinking of using the same iCute p.s.u. that i had to power up the pelt... is it safe? for the proc i mean? Well lets see the calc..

Power Disipated = listed power x (max volt/stock volt)Square
= 45 x (2.03/1.45)(2.03/1.45)
= 88.2 Watts

Here i'm planning the max Vcore is 2.03. So 120W pelt can take care 88.2 watts oced proc. But don't expect any sub zeros temps O.k. enough of the horse sh@t lets get down to business.

Final Objective: Mounting the Pelt.

This is a DIY upgrade for an existing Water cooling set, so there are no readily made pelt mounting kit for this water block.

The tools.

1. 120W pelt (50mm x 50mm x 3mm) = can't remember mebbe MR70.00
2. 2 x 50mm x 50mm x 3mm Copper plates (lapped till 1000 grit) =RM 20.00
3. Existing water block
4. G-clamps (G-Vice) = borrowed
5. Epoxy = RM6.90
6. Thermal Interface Material (i've got oni Arctic Silver 5) = ledi have
7. Plastic Glue Gun = borrowed
8. 1 x box of 20's Marlboro lights (if no money L&M oso can) = RM6.50

COST = RM103.40

The steps:

1. Squirt the AS5 on the center of the copper platse that will be attaced to the Pelt and fix/apply the sides of the pelt with epoxy. ...I'm terribly sorry, i'm using a quick dry epoxy and didn't manage to get the pics of this process cause i must clamp the plates pelt sandwich before the epoxy it is fixed.. You can opt for other epoxy that has a longer fixing rate that the one i'm using.


2. Clamping the cold plate and pelt sandwich.. there is an article implying the necessity to exert force on the Pelt to ensure the efficiency of thermal transfer somewhere.. i'll try to find it later and add the link here. Back to the step. Here is how it looks like while curing.


3. The finished product.. taddaaaaa.


4. Now by using the plastic glue gun, i potted the cold plate and pelt sandwich jus to ensure the cold and hot side of plate is insulated themally.


5. errr... how to explain this one? err, put the w/c mounting screw then slide in another 3/8 thick pre cut insulating sheet err.. like the pic below. Bear in mind that the cold side of sandwich is facing down and the hot side is facing up.



push in the cold plate/pelt sandwich gently till it wont budge.. do not push with excessive force cause it might damage you proc.

6. EDIT: Lay a layer of AS5 on the hot/up side of sandwich before inserting the water block. (thank you katopunk for reminding). Finally, slide in the w/block, gently till it wont budge and fastened it with the thumb screws... phewwwuuuhhh. done.


Hope this guide has been helpfull for those who're thinking of upgrading/adding a pelt in your existing w/c set. Thank you.

Next is the result:

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 13 2005, 03:58 AM

O.k. screenies of temp reading with the pelt.

1. Idle temp at default fsb and multi and Vcore.


2. Load temp at default fsb and multi and Vcore.


For oced reading.. sorry, had not chance to oc it yet, i'll edit this post later to add screen shot of oced temp.

EDIT: Ok, oced result, just so and so, well what to expect.. i'm using just an entry level w/c set and an AQYHA steppings 2500+ mobile



And the max oced (won't boot if more regardles of how much more Vcore i've pumped)

neurra: i've been busy doing this log i'll post you the cold plate next week ye.

--END.

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 15 2005, 12:24 AM

amok, steadyness!
dude, i wonder if u got put any AS5 between ya sandwich and the water block?

thank you, thank you, thank you... i've forgot to mention. I'll edit the post. Yes i've put AS5 in between the hot side and the w/block. I'll also put it on the proc (but should have been ASCeramique). The TIM is still curing right now. thank you again.

wow... very nice...
a job well done

i spotted a mild seven light lar??? i thought u said malboro in ure guide
anyway very nice tutorial u haf here...experiencing any condensation issues??? i think it shouldn't be a prob since it's not sub zero temp

Great guide there. Made sticky.

Thank you Masterrrr Prod, , glad you enjoyed reading it.

Wah, you can tell even though its not very clear .. Yes It is Mild Seven Lights, cause when doing it, all the kedai runcit closed ledi so had to run to a gerai and left only two choice: 1. Mild Seven Lights or 2. Gold Leaf.

Condensation? so far, from constant monitoring of the area around the socket, No condensation nor sweating. Wait for a few more days then only can declare the insullation is condensation proof. Anything below ambient temperature (in this case 28C ~ 30C) will promote condensation with a rate directly propotional to the humidity of the air.

the part where u stuck plates with epoxy, you could asked in the watercooling thread fot arctic adhesive since whitw_klighter has it. Just a for-you-to know stuff. Great guy though

wow u using op spiral water block.. not bad uh!

great job man, how much does it cost u for all of those thing u have done

Thanks i'll keep that in mind.

Approximately RM169.10 for smoking and RM162.60 for non smoking.

nice jobs...

by da way... how will u rma da bod if its faulty?

Gee thanks.

RMA? The electrical tape is easy to peel off when fix, that's why arj recommended it. As for the plasticote, it is hardly noticeable , i've asked from the shop which i bought the bod, they don't repair mobo, just replace with a new one if they've tested it faulty, and no physical alteration done. Of course if the bod still got warranty lor.

If i'm using those silicone sealant or conformal coat, then it will be a different story lar, Cause those things is a little hard to remove once fixed, need special chemical to remove the coat without leaving any physical mark.

nice one..
nice temp.

using how many watt pelt can get 0 celcius?

Ei,amok brother..why not using your 300watt peltier ler??I expect 3.5Ghz on your monster peltier lar. Your setting make my heart gatal.Going to get the meanwell for my 226 watt peltier soon.Hope can score 3.0Ghz above...

well it depends on :

1. cpu wattage
2. Cooler of the hot side

a 226W pelt can give you well below freezing temp with proper cooling on a 115W proc (oced)

Aiyseh brudder.. don't tell others about my secret weapon lar , neways i dun think the op spiral water block can dissipates the heat from the hot side of a 300 watt, mebbe need at least a maze 4. Yes get the meanwell if you're using anything above 180W pelt, the chapalang p.s.u. will be underpowered. And don't get the "transformer" type d.c. power supply either, it wasn't design for high amperage (believe me i've bought one ) and UGPM.

EDIT: water block name.

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 16 2005, 10:18 AM