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 HYPER TX > diy > WATER TX (haha), Hyper TX transformed into a waterblock.

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MetalZone
post Jun 19 2007, 06:23 PM

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I must say good job to your creativity despite the shortcomings. lohwenli has addressed most of them.

But dude... 75% coolant??? Thats overkill. pure water is still a better heat conductor. I'm perplexed how you managed any temperature drop with that high a concentration of coolant.

Some things to correct from lohwenli's post:

QUOTE
Advantages of coolant
-less corrosion (but frankly, water only does significant corrosion if there are several different metals in the loop, and only starts to have an effect after a few months)
-will not freeze (not applicable, as our climate will never get cold enough)
-less electrical conductivity


water doesn't corrode. it's a transfer of ions in what you call in layman's term "battery effect". when two incompatible metals are combined in the same loop, you get galvanic corrosion.
in the case of our TS's system, the heatpipes are copper, but what is the "radiator" made of?

I've never heard about that less electrical conductivity however. Pure distilled water is non-conductive. Once you get a tiny contamination of another substance, it becomes slightly conductive already. Same goes for all other non-conductive fluids particularly those that contain mainly distilled water.

QUOTE
Disadvantages
-more visicous (flow rate will be noticably reduce, which is a no-no for WC)
-may cloud tubings and plastic surfaces


coolant additives actually help lubricate the pump to some extent. When you add a minimal amount, it hardly affects flow rates to a noticeable level. But 75%... oh dear.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 19 2007, 06:51 PM
MetalZone
post Jun 19 2007, 06:50 PM

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QUOTE(Auraguy @ Jun 19 2007, 06:41 PM)
(material)
Radiator = aluminium
Heat pipe = copper
HSF baseplate = copper
copper and aluminium... the feared combination. You will definitely get galvanic corrosion even if you add coolant. coolant additives slows down the corrosion process only. I don't suggest you run this combo for a long time.

the pump max head pressure is what matters most, not the flowrate though. the 1500lph is rated at zero restriction and zero increase in pumping height. If your pump doesn't have good head pressure, with a restrictive loop, the resultant flowrate will be much lower.
MetalZone
post Jun 19 2007, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(Auraguy @ Jun 19 2007, 07:25 PM)
i`m not sure how to read this but there writen
Hmax = 66/2.00m
*
yup this is the max head pressure. 2 metres is just average but okay lah for now.
MetalZone
post Jun 20 2007, 03:05 AM

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QUOTE(lohwenli @ Jun 20 2007, 01:12 AM)
I'll take this as a compliment from my WC sifu..

To correct my statement-yes, distilled water is a poor conductor (a couple M ohm) and only becomes noticably conductive when other substances are dissolved in it. Coolant additives are do not conduct because they're organic compounds, and they inhibit water from dissolving other substances which would make it conductive. And less conduction also means less corrosion, as galvanic effects can only happen in a conductive liquid.

Easiest way to detect battery effect/galvanic corrosion-use a multimeter to test any 2 components in the loop which do not have direct contact with each other or metal connecting both of them. If there is galvanic corrosion, a voltage will be present (typically about 0.2-1.0V).
*
We're always learning. smile.gif
Ah... that makes sense now that i remember. Propylene Glycol and Ethylene Glycol are organic chemicals.
MetalZone
post Jun 29 2007, 01:25 PM

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Bro TS... this is the problem that some beginner WC'ers assume and then turn back to air cooling. Galvanic corrosion is not because of water cooling. it is because u mix incompatible metals, which in this case, is copper and aluminium. Over time, the aluminium in the loop will get corroded by copper until you burst a hole right thru in one of the aluminium components. You learn this in chemistry in your school.
This is why manufacturers always make sure they use compatible metals in the same loop; like for example, copper, brass, and nickel are fine together. copper and aluminium are not. However, you still see some companies mixing them, but they plate it stuff like gold(zalman), zink+cobalt(swiftech), and also anodizing. But, none of these are guaranteed to prevent corrosion coz once there is a tiny hole in the plating or anodizing, you have already opened room for corrosion. Plating is more reliable as claimed by some manufacturers.

Nevertheless, this has been a good learning experience for you.
MetalZone
post Jun 30 2007, 06:56 PM

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QUOTE(alcatell @ Jun 30 2007, 08:21 AM)
comeon guy giv this dude experimental first before shout out the  theory... let him experimental everything first then one day he will know and by that time he already knew how to solve the prob...TS u really have a talent and  how about try finding a copperplate/block and make one urself and i guess u may venturing to the world of phase change which is totally easy only it just cost u electricity more

my wc system which consist of cu block +alu rad+some a bit rad collant i running a it for years and every 6 month i clean the wc block and dun find any corrosion in it ..the temp still the same as fresh as i bought it

so my advice.. TS keep on research n experimenting
*
I myself said is was certainly creative for the TS to do this, and I applauded him for that.

I think u mixed up phase change and TEC(peltier) cooling. I believe what you are referring to 'using electricity' is TEC(Peltier).

It is the aluminium parts that get corroded mind you, that is your radiator. And then they get deposited on the copper block. Maybe you don't notice the deposits on the copper block because you empty your loop frequently. You don't notice corrosion doesn't mean it doesn't happen, it's probably slower. I don't encourage tempting fate and the laws of science. The old swiftech waterblock that had an anodized aluminium top was known to have visible corrosion within 18 months despite running coolants.

In the case where you have an aluminium radiator along with other copper components, worst case scenario, what will happen is on the inside of the aluminium radiator is it will continue to corrode the aluminium tubing walls until one day you have a hole(or holes) in the radiator.

While I applaud the TS for this project, I still don't advice running copper and aluminium in the same loop for a long term. I'm just giving advice to be cautious, not to discourage anyone.

Cheers.
MetalZone
post Jul 2 2007, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(lohwenli @ Jul 1 2007, 08:21 PM)
(eg brass is a mix of copper and tin, so its somewhat compatible with copper).
Eh correction, its copper+zinc. and yeah its compatible with copper.
Copper radiators are actually brass tubes and plenumb chambers + copper fins.

 

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