copper and aluminium... the feared combination. You will definitely get galvanic corrosion even if you add coolant. coolant additives slows down the corrosion process only. I don't suggest you run this combo for a long time.

the pump max head pressure is what matters most, not the flowrate though. the 1500lph is rated at zero restriction and zero increase in pumping height. If your pump doesn't have good head pressure, with a restrictive loop, the resultant flowrate will be much lower.

i`m not sure how to read this but there writen
Hmax = 66/2.00m

yup this is the max head pressure. 2 metres is just average but okay lah for now.

hey, i get a new result , i switched off my com for 1hour without switch off the radiator fan and pump , then i switch on my com and left it for 5 minit and i get 43C

The heatpipes is empty after you cut it open?

This post has been edited by Polar_012: Jun 20 2007, 12:05 AM

The answer for that question is in the post i link below:
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=12122926

Thanks bro guess i missed that part.

About the heatpipe, if its gas, it doesn't need to have a smell..many gases don't have any smell.. Clean air for example, you could tell shit if the air you breathe had more carbon dioxide or nitrogen, as long as it has about 20% oxygen.


I'll take this as a compliment from my WC sifu..

To correct my statement-yes, distilled water is a poor conductor (a couple M ohm) and only becomes noticably conductive when other substances are dissolved in it. Coolant additives are do not conduct because they're organic compounds, and they inhibit water from dissolving other substances which would make it conductive. And less conduction also means less corrosion, as galvanic effects can only happen in a conductive liquid.

Easiest way to detect battery effect/galvanic corrosion-use a multimeter to test any 2 components in the loop which do not have direct contact with each other or metal connecting both of them. If there is galvanic corrosion, a voltage will be present (typically about 0.2-1.0V).


Leave it longer bro, and the temp will be the same again.

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Jun 20 2007, 01:15 AM

We're always learning.
Ah... that makes sense now that i remember. Propylene Glycol and Ethylene Glycol are organic chemicals.

Hey there , long time no see , today i hav another mods for my graphic card(7300gt)
Here`s how i start:


by bending the fin of a Ati graphic card heat sink for pipe fitting

Here`s the cover maded by aluminium plate

the cover made to fit exactly nicely into the hsf


Here`s show the cover been drilled 2 holes for pipe


Here`s show the pipe been sealed with silicon and attached to hsf using silicon too


Here`s show the waterblock been locked onto my GPU using the original socket

And here`s the result
GPU Idle : 48C (left for 10minit)
GPU Load : 53C~55C (playing Need For Speed Carbon non-stop for 30minit)
GPU clock: 500mhz
MEM clock:700mhz
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What a dissapointed result......

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 28 2007, 04:59 PM

Its like that la..anyway said before already, your pump tak kuat wan, some more the whole loop so restictive, cekik the water flow like hell.

I hope you're not planning on running this for longer than a month or so. Because you have both aluminium and copper in the loop its just a disaster waiting to happen-aluminium will be corroded off and deposted on the copper.

Like this
http://www.dansdata.com/burning.htm

And if I'm just too damn free, I could make and upload a video of a the came chemical process happening in just a few minutes (accelerated by using an increased concentration of the metals involved).

OMG... but i dont understand wat it mean by - galvanic corrosion...
it seems like corrision of some acidic substance to me.
and it looks like he dint put any coolant inside the water, could it be the cause of the galvanic corrosion?

if my vga waterblock also happen, i dont want to use WC ANYMORE!!!!! will support air cooling

galavanic corrosion is not due to liquid content.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Correct. It is not directly caused by the liquid, but the presence of different metals in a watercooling loop that uses a liquid that can conduct electricity. I'm not trying to scare you here, but I have to point it out to you before something happens like corrosion blocking the water flow or causing the system to leak.

Water cooling sets where only a single metal is used will not suffer from galvanic corrosion (not noticable at by all accounts). In your case, you'll need to isolate the metals from each other by coating the surfaces that are in contact with water (eg varnish) or use a non conductive liquid.

---

Added on June 29, 2007, 12:04 amCoolant will slow down galvanic corrosion, but it will still happen unless you use a lot (which will f*** up cooling performance as it will slow down flow rate).

Don't give up now, your idea has truly been 1 of a kind..there are ways to solve the problems, keep trying.

This post has been edited by lohwenli: Jun 29 2007, 12:06 AM

TS, you are indeed very very creative. What should i say, 1st ever in LYN.

This r my suggestions, get a better Rad and use a stronger pump, tats all.

Bro TS... this is the problem that some beginner WC'ers assume and then turn back to air cooling. Galvanic corrosion is not because of water cooling. it is because u mix incompatible metals, which in this case, is copper and aluminium. Over time, the aluminium in the loop will get corroded by copper until you burst a hole right thru in one of the aluminium components. You learn this in chemistry in your school.
This is why manufacturers always make sure they use compatible metals in the same loop; like for example, copper, brass, and nickel are fine together. copper and aluminium are not. However, you still see some companies mixing them, but they plate it stuff like gold(zalman), zink+cobalt(swiftech), and also anodizing. But, none of these are guaranteed to prevent corrosion coz once there is a tiny hole in the plating or anodizing, you have already opened room for corrosion. Plating is more reliable as claimed by some manufacturers.

Nevertheless, this has been a good learning experience for you.

is that copper .. or aluminium wor o_O

I myself said is was certainly creative for the TS to do this, and I applauded him for that.

I think u mixed up phase change and TEC(peltier) cooling. I believe what you are referring to 'using electricity' is TEC(Peltier).

It is the aluminium parts that get corroded mind you, that is your radiator. And then they get deposited on the copper block. Maybe you don't notice the deposits on the copper block because you empty your loop frequently. You don't notice corrosion doesn't mean it doesn't happen, it's probably slower. I don't encourage tempting fate and the laws of science. The old swiftech waterblock that had an anodized aluminium top was known to have visible corrosion within 18 months despite running coolants.

In the case where you have an aluminium radiator along with other copper components, worst case scenario, what will happen is on the inside of the aluminium radiator is it will continue to corrode the aluminium tubing walls until one day you have a hole(or holes) in the radiator.

While I applaud the TS for this project, I still don't advice running copper and aluminium in the same loop for a long term. I'm just giving advice to be cautious, not to discourage anyone.

Cheers.

wah lau... TS respect from us... u r indeed very very very creative although the craftmanship is so so, but 'U r da man!'... dun stop, maybe u can get some copper plater n start wif some new ideas...



This post has been edited by HaHaNoCluE: Jun 30 2007, 09:05 PM

so if i change all cooper to aluminium would it continue to corrode?
it means the WC is all aluminium without any cooper but with coolant.would it continue?