Can i modify my CM HYPER TX? Is it illegal? Would is break the CM laws?

well, i actually plan to modify HYPER TX into a waterblock , but i scare it is an illegal. so i asked here 1st.

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 19 2007, 04:58 PM

i dun think its illegal...
if like tat oso illegal, den case mod oso illegal lo...

Well, if you do not sell the idea commercially, should not be a problem. You will (obviously) lose the warranty though.

If modifying something is punishable by law, its usually because its dangerous to do so-like modifying a car severely; the car may not be safe to drive anymore. Otherwise its probably because the manufacturer does not want people to make money from their idea, though its often a double edged sword. For example, overclocking is sort of a modification allowing you to get high performance from a low cost chip, but both Intel and AMD do not disallow it; at most you only lose your warranty. If they disallowed it completely, they would lose sales because its very bad publicity, particularly considering that there are lots of highly respected hardware critics who will look down on such a move.

Back to a lighter note-how do you intend to mod it?

O~ then i should start the modification , thx for answering my question.

Hehe, post up a worklog of how you modded it..very interested to know..

okie , by the way , how to put image into the post?

use imageshack to upload the picture..
make sure u resize it to 800x600..
and then paste the image url by clicking at IMG (when replying post)

looking forward to the worklog

This post has been edited by kalakatu: Jun 18 2007, 10:14 PM

well , i planned to do it like this


i think it will work well, and it fit with fish air pumps tube size,but a bit too tide.
Well , i gonna start doing it and see the result , it will perform good in my imagination. HAHA and sry for bad drawing.... hope u understand the drawing.

Better if you make all 3 tubes flow in parallel. Going through so many passes though the tubes will kill water flow because of the high restriction.

Be very careful when you open the heatpipes
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=270141&hl=

i dint actually doing it, my brother helped me out , but this idea is mine, haha

Here`s the 1st heat pipe my brother cutted


The heat pipes seems to be empty inside


Here`s the proof that inside is empty , no liquid , no powder


Here`s my radiator,pump,and reservior. the radiator is from proton iswara air-cond cooling-coil , it size about 9.5" hieght x 9.5 " width without counting the excessive pipe that poped out on top.


Here`s how i make the radiator`s fan , a box with 8x8cm fan attached , the fan on top is still not ready for it go.


Here`s the heat sink that is finished with pipes connected and sealed with P.T.F.E Tape

The temperature will be recorded later , this need sumtimez...

besides of recording the temperature, i need to think out an idea to make my vga cooler into waterblock also.


here the pic of my bga cooler , anyone hav idea to share with me?

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Added on June 18, 2007, 11:09 pm

wow, joker felers... i think the problem he meet is high pressure.. because of heat and it produce too much pressure and BOOOOOM!!!!

but i using hand-saw , nothing happen to me

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Added on June 18, 2007, 11:19 pm

forgot to reply upper part suggestion , i dint make it parallel flow because i dint have a 3-ways spread pipe , and now was too late to buy at hardware shop...(for me now is 11PM) so i just make is circular flow

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 18 2007, 11:19 PM

Nice job bro, but there something I must point out about your radiator.

That radiator is not exactly the best choice, because the tubing is a single, very long tube which will mean a lot of flow restriction. Water cooling works best with radiators that have many tubes in parallel. But if that's all you have, then I guess you should just work with it.

The heatpipe isn't empty, its filled with either a liquid or pressurised gas. In your case, it appears empty which probably means it was filled with gas. A heatpipe thats really empty is a quite a poor conductor of heat.

Btw, I think you should modify the title of your thread to something like "self made WC"

hey bro.. u are creative.. looking forward for ur mod.
Pls update it here. Salute u !!

Oh ya , forgot about the title... (edited)>how to change the TITLE????


but it does`t smell anything when i cutted.... , and about the radiator , it actualy not a radiator, it is a cooling coil for air-cond inner unit , but i like to call it radiator, HAHA



Thx for your appreaciation , i`ill try to update more infomation about it performance

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Added on June 18, 2007, 11:43 pmHere`s the temp ,
room temp :29.5C
cpu temp(idle) :47C (recorded after 5 minit)
cpu temp(load) :50C (recorded when running virus scanner [comodo anti-virus])
cpu temp(full load):58C (using orthos_exe_20060420 recorded after 5 minit)

Rig specification:
E6300 1.8Ghz (donno how to see whether got overclock or not...)
ASUS P5B
512MB DDR2 667Mhz Corsiar
Galaxy 7300GT Premium edition(overclocked) with zalman cooling
Western Digital 250GB Sata
380Watts CM psu (this inculded in casing purcased ,no money to buy higher power)
CM Elite 331 case
Samsung Writemaster 18X

This post has been edited by Auraguy: Jun 18 2007, 11:43 PM

Here`s the temp ,
room temp :29.5C
cpu temp(idle) :47C (recorded after 5 minit)
cpu temp(load) :50C (recorded when running virus scanner [comodo anti-virus])
cpu temp(full load):58C (using orthos_exe_20060420 recorded after 5 minit)

erkk on stok speed idle oredi 47c on water i think its kinda high if it was 3.2ghz or 3.4ghz at that temp it marvelous edi...i saw a forumer forgot who hitting 3.2ghz on WC at 25-35c idle to load.better check if u can improve it some more.looking forward to see ur project can reach those HIGHEND WC kit level or not.

ya..agreed with styloe..i can reach tat temp even with normal air cooling...mayb something went wrong in between ur wc cooler..coz i expect much more than this..hehehe..anyways, gambateh and wish u all the best..
my suggestion :- try put a real 120mm fans instead using those small fan
- use real high quality coolant
- and as one forumer said, mayb u should make 3 of the
flow together..will perform better i think

Click edit on the first post to edit the title.

Your temp is very high for WC, and its obvious why-your WC setup has a lot of restrictions and your unothodox waterblock is not designed to maximise the conductivity of water. Good waterblocks will force water through a narrowed flow section at the part closest to the CPU core to maximise heat conduction. Although restriction is still high, multiple passes are not done because its doesn't have much effect and it will only kill flow rate.

What is the temperature of the water as it comes of from the waterblock? I think it should be quite warm, considering how many passes its gone through-you can just touch the last tube to feel the temp.

The air-cond coil (yes, it can be called a radiator) also has another design flaw you can't do anything about-the tubes are fat, and have nowhere as much surface area as those radiators meant for water cooling systems. If the radiator is not efficient enough, the output end of the radiator will still feel slightly warm.

The best type of radiator for water cooling uses flattened, thin, but wide tubes, allowing maximum surface area. The main radiator for car engines also uses this design, but radiators for air-con are different as they're built to allow the coolant gas to recondense. Flat tube water radiators cannot withstand the same pressure so they are not used for gas.

Its unlikely this design will ever be as good as purpose built water cooling. Its very hard to make by yourself a waterblock that can match the performance of those on the market now. However, it is possible to mod a car radiator to outperform radiators used in PC water cooling, but it would no longer be possible to mount the radiator inside the case.

Better fans would probably help, but it will also depend whether the radiator is actually doing a good job of getting rid of heat in the first place-if the air coming from the radiator doesn't feel warm, then the fan isn't the problem. Forget about 'high-quality coolant'. Distilled water is pretty good already, and some of the coolant mixes are more visicous than water, which is really bad since your WC setup is already very restrictive to start with.

Advantages of coolant
-less corrosion (but frankly, water only does significant corrosion if there are several different metals in the loop, and only starts to have an effect after a few months)
-will not freeze (not applicable, as our climate will never get cold enough)
-less electrical conductivity

Disadvantages
-more visicous (flow rate will be noticably reduce, which is a no-no for WC)
-may cloud tubings and plastic surfaces

i actually get 51C at idle stat when using stock hsf with stock fan,even stock HYPER TX also get 49C at idle stat. So this WC is actually got a bit improve FOR ME.


yea, it seems a bit high , i just put 5% coolant(pennzoil car radiator coolant) and the block is actually a bad design for WC , and now i put 75% of the coolant and it drop to 46C at idle. about the radiator fan, i will change 12cm fan after i buy the fan.


nope, i dint install the original HYPER TX fan, because i wan to c the WC alone performance without external helps.


yea, the flow rate of this WC are DAMN slow because of the size of the tube,and this HSF only go through the baseplate with 3x 6mm heat pipe , it actually had a bad heat transfer between the block and heat pipe , thats why will get a bad result.


nope, the output of the WC does not feel warm , is almost the same between the input and output temp....


i agree with u,good waterblock needs a good tools , this hsf just used hand-saw
so is hard to make a waterblock as good as on the market.



better fan will helps,better coolant will help,but the effect is depends as u told , the radiators , 1st test i had put 5% coolant and i get 47C , now i put 75% coolant and i get 46C , is still an improve

I must say good job to your creativity despite the shortcomings. lohwenli has addressed most of them.

But dude... 75% coolant??? Thats overkill. pure water is still a better heat conductor. I'm perplexed how you managed any temperature drop with that high a concentration of coolant.

Some things to correct from lohwenli's post:



water doesn't corrode. it's a transfer of ions in what you call in layman's term "battery effect". when two incompatible metals are combined in the same loop, you get galvanic corrosion.
in the case of our TS's system, the heatpipes are copper, but what is the "radiator" made of?

I've never heard about that less electrical conductivity however. Pure distilled water is non-conductive. Once you get a tiny contamination of another substance, it becomes slightly conductive already. Same goes for all other non-conductive fluids particularly those that contain mainly distilled water.



coolant additives actually help lubricate the pump to some extent. When you add a minimal amount, it hardly affects flow rates to a noticeable level. But 75%... oh dear.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 19 2007, 06:51 PM

But my pump still work fine and the flow is still strong , the only problem that make the flow rate decrease is the size of the heat pipe,
(HSF)
external daimeter=6mm
internal daimeter=4mm

(pump)
flow rate=1500 L/H
watts=35
hertz=50
amps=0.25

(material)
Radiator = aluminium
Heat pipe = copper
HSF baseplate = copper

between the baseplate and processor unit putted some thermal grease(manhattan)
not sure is a good brand or fake brand...brought for RM10(no experience in tim)