6. Attached the small plastic tube onto the Seafoam Spray (black cap) and spray into the throttle hole while the car engine is still running until the whole can is empty.

- must do this step carefully if you dont want check engine light to turn on,
connect the small tube like in the video, try to connect back the rubber hose that connect to the throttle body. then start spraying.
if the rubber hose is not connected properly, the engine light warning will come on because the MAF sensor right before intake cant detect any air and will cause engine to choke.

you can choose to spray direct into throttle body just that will trigger engine light warning.

Yep, slide in small tube from spray can into throttle body, then cover back the rubber tube, just cover slightly make sure no air leaks can d.

Wait I find the video.
That farm video guy was using old car, so won't get error with MAF sensor.

watch this.

seafoam spray tutorial

your iswara is how old ? 25years old ??
oil leak out from where ?

I think the type of oil also determine got sludge. Semi synthetic oil will build up sludge faster.

Erm, thing is it's still using the old oil filter, I don't know what's the effect of after flush still using an old oil filter with new oil.

When I did my flush my car just left there for idle for 15min, no revving at all. Sacrificial oil came out tea colour.

I guess running a day wouldn't hurt

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 18 2018, 06:29 PM

Up to you if you want to go workshop twice to change oil.

My point is that if your mileage is very high one oil change isn't enough to clean it.
New oil added in simply turn into 3month old in 15min.

They'll ask ppl not to go ahead with engine flush because might cause leaks.
besides the flush, the intake cleaner also they dont do unless ppl requested them to clean throttle body.
for car jerking at idling, usually ppl will replace a whole lot of things like spark plugs and other things like (most mech buat bodo to earn more money). just service can solve problem but ended up changing 3-5 parts.

one day when things fail, they just tell you to overhaul everything.
like one of my friend's car the water temperature keeps on going high. cant solve it.
mechanic ask him to overhaul

Everything has a lifespan i'd rather make my car feel new.
if gasket really fail, then one shot change the whole engine gasket.

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 18 2018, 10:17 PM

those complain leakages after flushing should be those ppl who never had gaskets changed before.
gasket if can last 8years already strike lottery.

i'm from mechatronics background so i can pick up car knowledge fast, the conclusion i get is that the normal ppl here is they dont know nuts.
- try to outrun the service intervals, pushing their luck (hey i did it too)
- most of the money get chopped by mechanics (including me, gf car compressor failed (should be 500-600), ended up charging rm2,000 including the inner coil, MCB shop boycott him d)
- blindly follow/believe manufacturer marketing, blur blur (DSG gearbox, start-stop BS)

so now, i read whatever i could, at least i could troubleshoot and estimate the problem beforehand.

dont think revving can burn the carbon at throttle body btw.

130,000km oil with Seafoam engine treatment and Seafoam spray
this one no sacrificial oil. put in new Shell full synthetic oil
the car now press a bit of oil can move smoothly, previously running at 100kmh engine sound was super rough. now not so rough





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my other car with 80,000km mileage. (just run flush for 20min)

consulted my friend (the one with 200,000km on it) what thing he use to service the car cuz his one tank can go 700km. mine only 550km.

so conclusion is a lot of things (my engine should be super dirty with oil deposits, so the whole car is not responsive, and not so fuel efficient)
this service interval i switched to Liqui Moly full synthetic + engine flush + additive (to reduce friction)

this is what i did with it, first spray Seafoam valve cleaner into intake and rev everything to clear valve.
then drive to workshop to ask them do engine flushing.

OLD engine oil (7000km) after adding flush and running it for 10minutes. like KOPI-O



then because i watched some videos that do flushing on cars that never done it before (run 100,000km never flush) they had to flush - drain - add new cheapo oil to run 2nd round (run 10-15min) then drain. THEN only add in LIQUI MOLY.
Basically DRAIN THE OIL TWICE if not the new oil added will be instantly dirty !!

this is the sacrificial cheapo 4L engine oil (new engine oil just run for 10min) that i added in after draining the oil.
pour new oil in immediately turn dark, dirty like teh O.


This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 19 2018, 04:59 PM

i brought my own oil la. they charge rm 50 for labour to change twice.


one way of testing before/after is when u press pedal a little bit.

try feel how your car respond before adding anything.
the pull will only come in lagging behind or press down pedal a lot only can pull.
but after treatment the pull will be instant

wow your valve is spanking brand new. i guess those high mileage that never did any flushing or throttle body cleaning will feel the difference the most.

regarding the sacrificial oil, it's just something extra if your car havent flush before for 100,000km.
a lot of ppl will just flush and thats it, but thats the fact your new oil gonna look like "tea" in 20minutes because there are too much shit inside there that cant be clean with one round of oil change.


the intake spray will make the throttle response better (car felt like hesitant to pull before), while the flush will make the engine spin with less resistance, therefore car will coast further, car feels lighter.

if those cars use semi-syn oil, probably build up sludge even faster due to viscosity.



This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 19 2018, 09:28 PM

one is liquid and the other one is spray

liquid is added to engine service hole and add into fuel tanks help to clean injectors too.

havent tried put in after oil change. but after i added into the car, already can feel the difference and after a week the pull is not that strong, dunno is change different petrol factor or not.
so best is to change oil in a few days after adding because it will dislodge a lot of sludge in the engine that needs to be drained.

if u watch that farm guy video, he said seafoam did not make the engine oil thin.
and yes he did drain 2nd time and the oil was black as well.

why would u want to do that ?

oh, okay, but not looking at the kopi colour also can feel the difference d.
unless your car is still new like 2year old.

worst case scenario is that it could cause leaks if gasket has not been change periodically. the chemicals are all petroleum based

but a lot of ppl already kena parang from this unstable idling problem, which can cause strings of wrongly misdiagnosed problems.
mechanics might propose to change AC, change spark plugs, belt, belt tensioner, overhaul engine top, change sensor, change lots of stuff.

another factor is bad FC and bad throttle response. the car become crappy that you wanna change it.

u dint pour the liquid into engine oil ah ?

half into oil tank, the other half into engine oil hole.
run for a few days, then only proceed to spray and service your car.

i pour in liquid immediately the car felt lighter when pedal cuz the car move when stepped on pedal a bit.

1. i think around 40,000km to 50,000km (about 1.5years to 2years time) do once, your car will feel like brand new

2. semi syn also ok, it's just to flush out whatever dirty things remaining inside engine

3. fuel economy here meaning after lets say 4-5years your FC will never be the same as the day you bought the car.
because engines inside will have lots of sticky things like carbon, oil residue built up. then valves that circulates air passage gets clogged, sensors are dirty (cars have computers inside that controls air and fuel mixtures to burn efficiently, if the reading is out, then maybe more petrol is consumed, coupled with bad throttle response, you'll most likely press down pedal kawkaw because the power delivery lags and the gear shift is slower. like you press all the way down instead of half because the car isnt functioning efficiently).
newer fuel like BHP they added a bit of cleaning agents in fuel. maybe get better cleaning effect down the fuel line and intake valve, but still everything will get dirty irregardless.
when your throttle response is good, you wont press pedal that hard, then you'll save fuel

4. normal shops dont do it.
even for engine flush, workshop is hesitant to do it because might cause engine gasket to leak. only official service centre that forces you to periodically change gasket will do it. cuz if it leaks they get blamed. that's for engine flush. (subang jaya performance shop got help ppl do liquid moly engine flush)

for the spray they dont like to do it as well. hardly cuz our local mechanics are old fashioned type.

what i've seen those specilized workshop do is clean part by part (but not spray and rev it out) which will cost about RM 900+
1. clean throttle body
2. open top do chemical cleaning on pistons
3. intake valve walnut blast
4. take out whole EGR valve to clean

imagine u buy a bottle RM55 can do cleaning almost the same way comparing to the mech taking out everything and bill you RM 900+ for it.

i cant imagine doing this at workshop, car spitting white smoke from exhaust, later customers thought the mechanic wreck customers car

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Dec 26 2018, 02:33 PM

i suggest you go find how intake valves, throttle body, EGR valve looks like after 100,000km.

a person cant possibly run efficiently if he hadnt pick his nose or brushes his teeth for 8years straight