if u do it with engine flush will be better.

i cant believe my gf car pedal response can improve with only the engine treatment only.
but the engine should be in terrible shape cuz when i poured it into the engine oil cover, saw really nasty looking mud colour inside.

colour and texture is like this when i peep into the hole


This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 09:46 AM

Interesting product. You think a 60K km car need this?

Follow up video on the truck 1 year later if anyone interested.
https://youtu.be/prXiQgVVnDY

if u take care ur car properly , 60k km actually no needed. mine 250k km cuci throttle body not that blackish as above.

intake valves every 30,000km already covered with a lot of carbon.
if your car feels crappy then just do it.
especially if you press on pedal the power kicks in slower

it's not only throttle body, the engine internally is gunk up with sludge.
i dont think even 10% of the population does engine flush. i dont do it since last time.
and there are other things like EGR valve, intake valve that get clogged too.





This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 10:24 AM

Gosh. I am surprised your car still can move!

this is not my car. i'm showing you what it looks like, probably 300,000km without doing engine flush.

i have a friend doing engine flush each oil change, the car fuel consumption is the same when he bought it, even after 6years.

So Iswara and above are DI then?



What's an engine flush?

not exactly, most cars sold in the market are still FI, n i get wat u mean, my car also facing the same problem cos its DI n its a pain in the ass to clean off the carbons, i have tried almost all the ways to remove the carbons but the best way is still to overhaul the engine, but of course its too expensive compared to other treatment methods, this seafoam method i seen before in utube, worth to try it

nope, iswara n all proton cars are FI

Your engine put engine oil to keep it running.
At first engine oil slippery and clean like cooking oil.
After do service drain dirty oil, put in new oil.

But some oil eventually becomes sticky like grease n stuck inside. Engine flush is put in to remove those sludge in your engine casing.

After free up those greasy sludge, your engine will run smoother.
Before service add in, then when service drain out everything

when you say change twice, you mean add seafoam to the existing engine oil, let it run a while, change to new engine oil, use it a few days, then change again?
dont you need to remove some engine oil before adding seafoam?

1. Old oil + seafoam. Run for a week.

2. Drain above. Add in new oil (add cheapo oil as his is sacrificial oil). Run for 20min.
- I did mine, the fresh new oil turned into coffee in 20min run.

3. Drain above. Add in new final oil. This time only change your oil filter.

The seafoam just add like half bottle to engine. Balance half into peteol tank near empty. Fill up run that tank finish for like 1 week then go service.

No need to remove oil when add seafoam as until your service interval the oil also become lesser.

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 07:35 PM

Don't need remove some oil before add seafoam to compensate?

Parking

No need. Pour in half bottle like 100+ml only.

Remember to drain twice as it frees up a lot of sludge that your new oil immediately turn dirty like tea colour

There are way too many systems to clean actually.

This method is the most direct and effective.....
It works as detergent, just apply to all 3 inlets fuel, air and engine oil.

Valves get dirty every 30,000km onwards. Roughly translates to a year of usage.

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 15 2018, 08:00 PM

Seafoam has been around in the US for decades when cars still use carburetors. Its for all kinds of small engines.

https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/

I saw tyt sc selling this leh.... that day forget to fluch when do 200k km major service aiyo

yours is just engine flush

this treatment is complete one. pour into engine, pour into fuel tank, spray intake wan.