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 Honda City Gen 6.0/6.1 V10

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SUSnordingh
post Nov 4 2018, 04:18 AM

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QUOTE(dickybird @ Nov 3 2018, 05:05 PM)
Wow you guys' cars really hard on batteries. My previous car, Myvi I think only changed battery twice over the 7 years plus I owned it. The 2 batteries lasted on average 2.5 years.
I drove that car 5 days a week for work more less, about an hour a day of commuting.
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Woooo... don't compare with Myvi. All cars I used before (even still use now), which is Kancil, Old Saga, Saga BLM the battery only change in 2-2.5 years too. Not much electrical/electronic stuff in those car. In locked mode, only 1 alarm sensor is in standby mode to received remote signal. In Honda, there is 5 or 6 remote sensors running all the time in locked mode, also there is ultrasonic sensor inside the car.

When the car is running, even the HU in OFF mode, the HU still consume the power, the HU screen always ON. Honda car use a lots of electronic inside.

QUOTE(legendaryNOKIA @ Nov 3 2018, 07:16 PM)
Hi sifu, new to city group, let's say i change modulo bodykit at outside shop. They will remove the bumper and fix a skirting. What will happen to the original bumper?
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You have extra that can give me for free. brows.gif

QUOTE(mushigen @ Nov 3 2018, 11:55 PM)
Anyone facing sulfation issue with their battery terminal (the red terminal)? My car is 2 months' plus.
[attachmentid=10095674]
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Pour some hot water to clean it. for a better solution, follow the expert below:

QUOTE
Follow these easy steps:

    First, make sure your car is turned off for safety’s sake. You’ll be touching the battery, so it’s best to turn it off.
    Find the battery and remove the terminals. You’ll need a wrench to help you remove them. Remove the negative terminal first, then the positive one.
    Check for any damage to your battery. While you’re in there, you might as well make sure there’s no bulging, cracking or warping present on your battery. These are signs you may need to replace your battery.
    You’ll see a white substance on the terminals and inside the cable clamps.This is the material that needs to be removed. Now you’ll need a few materials: a toothbrush, water, baking soda, steel wool, a cloth or towel for drying, and petroleum jelly.
    Mix a very small amount of water with some of the baking soda in a lid or small dish. Then, use the toothbrush to apply the paste to the terminals and clamps. Scrub thoroughly until the white substance disappears. If necessary, you can make use of steel wool to help remove the corrosion. Pay special attention to the insides of the clamps in order to ensure that your battery connection will be the best possible.
    Dry everything off with a towel or cloth.
    Add some petroleum jelly to the terminals and the clamps. This will help prevent future corrosion.
    Reconnect the battery, connecting the positive terminal first, then the negative one.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 4 2018, 11:16 AM

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QUOTE(legendaryNOKIA @ Nov 4 2018, 09:27 AM)
Bro, one question from me, might sound stupid. For the spoiler, they use adhesive method or will screw?
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QUOTE(gsan @ Nov 4 2018, 09:40 AM)
original modulo spoiler suppose need to drill hole and clips, but you can just use adhesive method  biggrin.gif
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QUOTE(legendaryNOKIA @ Nov 4 2018, 09:57 AM)
Sifu. Thanks for feedback. Meaning all workshop will also drill? And will cause rusting?
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My City I use 3M only. Even if drill still need to use adhesive to cover the gap so water can't go inside, no rust.

My Saga BLM I drill and use adhesive, 10 years already no rust at all.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 4 2018, 02:37 PM

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QUOTE(mushigen @ Nov 4 2018, 11:21 AM)
Thanks for the tips on how to remove the sulphate from the terminal.

I'm wondering it is common for Honda City stock battery to have sulphate build up in under 3 months of usage. Or whether there is any leak from the +ve terminal.

Do you know if it is alright to simply disconnect the battery to do a proper cleaning of the terminal - whether it will render the keyless entry, alarm or whatever system haywire?
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go ahead, remove the terminal and clean using your tooth brush. you just need to set the clock on the radio only.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 5 2018, 12:50 PM

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QUOTE(abc7177 @ Nov 5 2018, 09:22 AM)
Guys, just got my car yesterday rclxms.gif
And i wanna ask whats the epic "Dung" sound after a few minutes i started my car?
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Car moving or not that time? Next time when you hear it, look at the meter, any symbol blinking or not.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 5 2018, 04:02 PM

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QUOTE(abc7177 @ Nov 5 2018, 02:10 PM)
Mostly moving, and nothing shows on the meter hmm.gif
My guess is, maybe the air-con compressor start running like Vios which has a sound of "dak" before running.
Not sure correct or not rclxub.gif
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that tak.. tak. tak.... is aircond, normal for Honda car now days, especially the model assemble here.

you say before... Dung.. dung.. that seat belt warning

(aku belum mandi.. tak tun tuang, tak tun tuang)

QUOTE(keithwwk @ Nov 5 2018, 02:44 PM)
I am asking my Honda SA to do it form me where I bought the car from him. From the list he sent me, gross premium increased.
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Yes, increase a little bit now. and also depend on our age.

Etiqa not need to pay extra for extra drivers now (except driver below 21 years).
SUSnordingh
post Nov 6 2018, 10:50 PM

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QUOTE(arza04 @ Nov 6 2018, 08:39 PM)
What is the headlamp bulb size for FL?
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Which Spec? Low beam? high beam? Position light? please state next times, if not no one can answer.

I can give you 2014 V Spec bulb info.
Location - Type - Wattage
High Beam - HB3/9005 - 60W
Low Beam - H11/9003 - 55W
Fog Light - H11/9003 - 55W
Front Turn - 7440/T20/WY21W - 21W
Rear Turn - 7440/T20/W21W - 21W
Position Light - T10/W5W - 5W
Brake/Taillight - 1157/P21/5 - 21/5W
Backup Light - T15/W16W - 16W
Taillight - T10/W5W - 5W
License Plate - T10/W5W - 5W
High-Mount Brake - 7440/T20/W21W - 21W
Ceiling Light - Feston/D31mm - 8W
Map Light - T10/W5W - 5W
Boot Light - T10/W5W - 5W
Port Light - T5 - 1W

2017 V Spec use LED.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 7 2018, 09:30 AM

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QUOTE(gsan @ Nov 7 2018, 08:50 AM)
ya, not that good, just is original honda access japan  laugh.gif

i saw supplier is selling valeo led fog lamp, more brighter and better cutoff line, of coz price is much cheaper
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Valeo is the same brand for current foglamp use in city. Easy to crack if hit by stone. To change, SC charge RM450 for 1. Mine already change to cap ayam, RM90 per set including bulb. Not so worry if hit by stone anymore.

My friend car foglamp also crack, so I sell the other one to him.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 7 2018, 02:02 PM

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QUOTE(cofin @ Nov 7 2018, 01:49 PM)
I change all these to Philips LED Ultinon for my 2014 model .....cost around RM2k order from amazon japan

Everything become super bright lol .....the signal need to bypass using Canbus if not hyperflashing

Some car i see their signal hyperflashing they didnt even bother to put Canbus ...
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Yes, me too. I change all to LED too except lowbeam (use Hella brand) and highbeam (still original Osram). Not sure how much cost me, everything mixed with some Philips, Osram, Korean brand and some China made. Mostly RM1.5K and above... and still counting as I still buying more LEDs for new car.

Last time I installed DRL twice, then remove all. Now using a switchback DRL/signal.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 7 2018, 08:36 PM

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QUOTE(fx9 @ Nov 7 2018, 07:07 PM)
Bro, for pre-FL, if want to change to DRL, need cut wires? 🤔

I recently bought H11 LED from a brand called Novsight. Have dual color. Somemore it claims to be Lumileds ZES LED. And also it doesn’t cause EMI problem with my FM radio, unlike some cheap LEDs.
So far I am happy with it.
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so far even installed a lots of new items in my car, not cutting any wire yet. Even my glove box got light when fully open.

There is a few places can tap for power either direct battery or ACC.

Our car antenna at the back side, so far never had any problem with EMI/RFI interference. Radio and LED should be very near to detect and normally only in AM band. Normally I tuned AM to 1080 for a very silent channel.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 8 2018, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(holymushroom @ Nov 8 2018, 11:41 AM)
ya not the 1 in fuse box, that y we have to resort to this bypass fuse. went to the accessory shop nearby and there was no replacement for this kind of fuse, the edge is in circular shape. i guess it is made from china, since accessory shop never seen this kind of fuse before.

the seller is not helpful in this, so i might just buy another unit if this fail again. can the fuse in the fuse box protect against over any potential surge?
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I think you mean the fuse inside the black holder right?

Attached Image


Sorry to say, those at accessory shop so dumb if never see the fuse before. That cylinder glass tube fuse use in a lot of household products, car charger, 3pin plug, in computer products, in motorcycle (some old model). I think mostly more than 30 being use in my house right now and I have a lots spare around.

If you go to electrical shop or some supermarket, they sell in pack of 3. No kidding, I buy at small supermarket before, 3 for RM1. I can't take any picture because I not sure the fuse in which tools box. (I have more than 10 tools box or maybe at my other house)

Anyway, here is 1 sample from my dashcam power adapter.

Attached Image
SUSnordingh
post Nov 8 2018, 02:51 PM

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QUOTE(mushigen @ Nov 8 2018, 02:46 PM)
Check with you, the so-called canbus is actually a resistor (which increases wattage of the led bulb to avoid hyperflashing), or it's Canbus to cancel error message in cars with Canbus?
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For signal normally just a resistor.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 8 2018, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Nov 8 2018, 03:04 PM)
If Honda can bring Ridgeline here, sure tapau Hilux as well. You might say i'm too fanboi but that's what I see on the roads more often.
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Bring Honda N la.

bro.. confem, Perodua still use Betamek HU. I open mine already.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 8 2018, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(lil_flank @ Nov 8 2018, 07:53 PM)
Ok le. Mine was 9km/l in town area.
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Still OK le tu.. mine is 8km/l only.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 9 2018, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(eddie2020 @ Nov 9 2018, 04:18 AM)
anyone change Bosch horn? where to get the adapter socket for plug n play?
i saw fb someone sell haflfcut claim from japan for the twitter, 1 pair 100bucks.. worth to try?
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For horn no need to get the adapter, most accessories shop know how to fabricate a new cable for use with dual horn.

For the tweeter, if you read this thread from beginning, you should get the answer. What I can say, really worthy.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 9 2018, 11:20 AM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Nov 9 2018, 11:04 AM)
I am curious about this. If they can replace the horn at the currently installed location, do they need to take out the front bumper?
In my Persona previously, my wireman claimed need to take out bumper, so very 'ma fan', so he used screw holes at my firewall to install a new horn (my old one busted).
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Just open top part of the bumper. There is no way to reach horn location if not open the bumper. City bumper very easy to remove. There is a case, bumper drop when bumped to much.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 9 2018, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(fx9 @ Nov 9 2018, 11:58 AM)
Bosch horn is 2pc design. Cannot fit behind the bumper.
So I just left the original horn there, install the horns in the engine compartment & route the wires to the bumper. I can share you some pictures of my setup, but I am currently overseas.
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I installed at the same place as original.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 9 2018, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Nov 9 2018, 12:21 PM)
I see. Thanks for the info.
I see, hmm... something similar like my old Persona, the replacement horn install somewhere else inside engine bay. But if you can share ur pics it might help guide those who look to replace their horns. Thanks.
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Welcome.

If I not too busy during the weekend, I might open my car bumper to replaced a new front camera. I can take the pic of my horn too.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 9 2018, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(babylon52281 @ Nov 9 2018, 12:32 PM)
Ur wireman replace at ori location ya? Very resourceful person just to keep the ori look. Respect!  notworthy.gif

Thanks in advance. Oh if can share pics of ur front camera installation process also would be helpful. brows.gif
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Normally I will take pic and video so I can share at FB group but I not sure why I missed the pic for the horn before.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 9 2018, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(tonYe @ Nov 9 2018, 12:55 PM)
I think a coin might have fallen into the handbrake gap. Any idea how I could retrieve it or is it okay to leave it in there?
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Just leave there, the cost to retrieve is more than the coin value. If a wedding ring then worth it (yes there is a case someone go to SC to retrieve the ring).

Most of the time some screw inside that compartment, fallen when open the HU to install bypass or camera.
SUSnordingh
post Nov 9 2018, 10:20 PM

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QUOTE(ericong77 @ Nov 9 2018, 02:19 PM)
Anyone have problem with power window?
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Common issue is the rear windows can't roll down, both sides. Mostly because owner didn't use it at all, end up the rubber trim stick to the glass/tinted when exposed to some heat. My friend need to go to SC to fixed the issue after 3 months bought the car.

My advise is to keep testing/playing with the switches every 2 weeks for all windows. That's what I do for the last 4 years and sometime my little son will do it for me. Same method I use for my 14 years old Saga and 10 years BLM, both never had any problem with the power windows.

If your problem is different, please state it here.

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