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 Myvi 2018, Fuel Consumption Review

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SleeplessEyes
post May 10 2020, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(Archemedia @ Mar 14 2020, 12:13 PM)
wanna save fuel buy BMW I8... 50KM/L
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I hate to say this: Want to save even more fuel.
Buy a Nissan Leaf - 3/4 the price of the BMW i8 and zero fuel.

QUOTE(kelvintan133 @ May 9 2020, 07:45 AM)
Then there's my question, am wondering if RON97 will effectively save you fuel money and increase engine power in the newer 2NR-VE of the Myvi 2018? Since it's running a higher compression ratio.

Don't bring in those knocking sensors all. Irrelevant. That's for lower compression ratio topics. Now we're in the 11:1 ratio topic. MYVI 2018, WAWASAN 2020. RON97 should be well optimised at this compression ratio range, shouldn't it? Just answer
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Lets use the older 2NR-FE as a reference, since the VE is just a mere upgrade. It has the same 11:5 compression as the 2NR-VE.

This is what the manual says for Toyota Yaris 2NR-FE engine (US Market):

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I believe Toyota engineers must have thoroughly designed the engine piston, exhaust,ignition timing, and possibly valve timing, to have high compression ratio yet reduced knocking , on RON 91 even, for US markets and some countries.

I'm also quoting from Mazda Skyactiv reference, on how they achieve such high compression yet requiring regular octane (RON 91 for US ) to prevent Knocking.
https://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/technol...tiv/skyactiv-g/

Presumably there is no engine knocking using RON 95 (I know you hate to hear this), it means the engine ignition timing would had been maxed (advance) out or optimized . So when you use RON 97 on a maxed out ignition timing tune for a RON 91 ignition map, I doubt there will be any difference in "horsepower".

Again, let me make it clear. Knocking sensors exist for a reason. Regardless low compression or super high compression, its there to listen for any knock for the ECU to max out the ignition timing.

The only way to prove it whether RON 97 works better on a 2NR-VE engine, is on the dyno, together with the OBD reading. To see whats the timing advance during WOT. Otherwise on normal ,sane driving, meaning no WOT, RON 97 would hardly benefit for improved fuel economy.

You are welcome to try since now the RON 97 fuel price is at a low RM 1.55/L.



kelvintan133
post Aug 23 2020, 08:09 AM

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QUOTE(SleeplessEyes @ May 10 2020, 10:22 AM)
I hate to say this: Want to save even more fuel.
Buy a Nissan Leaf - 3/4 the price of the BMW i8 and zero fuel.
Lets use the older 2NR-FE as a reference, since the VE is just a mere upgrade. It has the same 11:5 compression as the 2NR-VE.

This is what the manual says for Toyota Yaris 2NR-FE engine (US Market):

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I believe Toyota engineers must have thoroughly designed the engine piston, exhaust,ignition timing, and possibly valve timing, to have high compression ratio yet reduced knocking , on RON 91 even, for US markets and some countries.

I'm also quoting from Mazda Skyactiv reference, on how they achieve such high compression yet requiring regular octane (RON 91 for US ) to prevent Knocking.
https://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/technol...tiv/skyactiv-g/

Presumably there is no engine knocking using RON 95 (I know you hate to hear this), it means the engine ignition timing would had been maxed (advance) out or optimized . So when you use RON 97 on a maxed out ignition timing tune for a RON 91 ignition map, I doubt there will be any difference in "horsepower".

Again, let me make it clear. Knocking sensors exist for a reason. Regardless low compression or super high compression, its there to listen for any knock for the ECU to max out the ignition timing.

The only way to prove it whether RON 97 works better on a 2NR-VE engine, is on the dyno, together with the OBD reading. To see whats the timing advance during WOT. Otherwise on normal ,sane driving, meaning no WOT, RON 97 would hardly benefit for improved fuel economy.

You are welcome to try since now the RON 97 fuel price is at a low RM 1.55/L.
*
Great explanation. Love it. Pleased to let you know, I did try the RON97. But something terrible happened after that.

Myvi '18 had this notorious fuel pump issue. So I'm not sure if it was a coincidence, or it's related. My engine just ceased to run at a traffic light one week later. Never asked Perodua if was due to the fuel (very unlikely), but was too obvious to be a coincidence.

Nevertheless, Perodua changed the Fuel Pump from the defective Indonesia variant to Japan variant for free within 12 hours.

Anyways serviced my car at 10,000km, back on RON95 and I'm doing like 90-100km per fuel bar. There's 8 bars.
I'm doing frigging 720km-800km on a full tank. WTF

Heavy foot most of the time. Will go to 160kmh but tend to keep car below 120kmh where "ECO" light is on. Always downshift so my RPM is 2000-4000

SleeplessEyes
post Aug 23 2020, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(kelvintan133 @ Aug 23 2020, 08:09 AM)
Great explanation. Love it. Pleased to let you know, I did try the RON97. But something terrible happened after that.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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I believe that its absolute pure coincidence . Nothing gotta do with RON 97 .
(Really, if RON 97 can caused fuel pump issue, what about the millions of RON 95 users).

regarding about this quote:

QUOTE
Anyways serviced my car at 10,000km, back on RON95 and I'm doing like 90-100km per fuel bar. There's 8 bars.
I'm doing frigging 720km-800km on a full tank. WTF
I strongly recommend you do not rely on "KM per fuel bar". Rather you should use the FC meter at the dashbopard "KM/L" as a correct judgement. And do not rely also on the "KM Distance to go" meter. That one can be off by 30KM depending on measurement.
Fuel bars are only for indication; they are not to be used as measurement.


kelvintan133
post Feb 28 2022, 01:37 AM

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QUOTE(SleeplessEyes @ Aug 23 2020, 02:47 PM)
I believe that its absolute pure coincidence . Nothing gotta do with RON 97 .
(Really, if RON 97 can caused fuel pump issue, what about the millions of RON 95 users).

regarding about this quote:
I strongly recommend you do not rely on "KM per fuel bar". Rather you should use the FC meter at the dashbopard "KM/L" as a correct judgement. And do not rely also on the "KM Distance to go" meter. That one can be off by 30KM depending on measurement.
Fuel bars are only for indication; they are not to be used as measurement.
*
Good point actually. When the car was new, I tend to keep my tank above the half point. It's been almost 3 years with this car. I think I've been scammed a little by the fuel bars like you said. Toyota cars are usually never like this. The fuel bars are proportional to the mileage left. In the Myvi, as the fuel bar drops below the half mark, the mileage drops significantly per fuel bar. Almost like ONE FUEL BAR = 40-60km only, and not 100km.

Now that I do burn through a full tank on the Myvi occasionally, I think it roughly does around 350 - 450km total mileage at best.
350km being more on City Drive (FC suffers, around 10-14km/l)
450km if more highways are driven (FC around 16-18km/l)

Rarely achieved the claimed 22km/l FC by Perodua even around the ECO range
Usually maintain speed below the 120km/h where ECO is still on. 140km/h is still pretty good with FC around 16km/l, and I tend to let my foot off the throttle a lil and let momentum do it's thing.

Top speed 186km/h I've recorded with Waze, going down to JB from KL

This post has been edited by kelvintan133: Feb 28 2022, 01:39 AM
amscouzach57
post Feb 28 2022, 07:35 AM

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QUOTE(kelvintan133 @ Feb 28 2022, 01:37 AM)
Good point actually. When the car was new, I tend to keep my tank above the half point. It's been almost 3 years with this car. I think I've been scammed a little by the fuel bars like you said. Toyota cars are usually never like this. The fuel bars are proportional to the mileage left. In the Myvi, as the fuel bar drops below the half mark, the mileage drops significantly per fuel bar. Almost like ONE FUEL BAR = 40-60km only, and not 100km.

Now that I do burn through a full tank on the Myvi occasionally, I think it roughly does around 350 - 450km total mileage at best.
350km being more on City Drive (FC suffers, around 10-14km/l)
450km if more highways are driven (FC around 16-18km/l)

Rarely achieved the claimed 22km/l FC by Perodua even around the ECO range
Usually maintain speed below the 120km/h where ECO is still on. 140km/h is still pretty good with FC around 16km/l, and I tend to let my foot off the throttle a lil and let momentum do it's thing.

Top speed 186km/h I've recorded with Waze, going down to JB from KL
*
You might have a symptom that we would like to call "golden leg". Hehehe.jk

Is it a Myvi with a 1.5L engine?
SleeplessEyes
post Mar 1 2022, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(kelvintan133 @ Feb 28 2022, 01:37 AM)
Good point actually. When the car was new, I tend to keep my tank above the half point. It's been almost 3 years with this car. I think I've been scammed a little by the fuel bars like you said. Toyota cars are usually never like this. The fuel bars are proportional to the mileage left. In the Myvi, as the fuel bar drops below the half mark, the mileage drops significantly per fuel bar. Almost like ONE FUEL BAR = 40-60km only, and not 100km.

Now that I do burn through a full tank on the Myvi occasionally, I think it roughly does around 350 - 450km total mileage at best.
350km being more on City Drive (FC suffers, around 10-14km/l)
450km if more highways are driven (FC around 16-18km/l)

Rarely achieved the claimed 22km/l FC by Perodua even around the ECO range
Usually maintain speed below the 120km/h where ECO is still on. 140km/h is still pretty good with FC around 16km/l, and I tend to let my foot off the throttle a lil and let momentum do it's thing.

Top speed 186km/h I've recorded with Waze, going down to JB from KL
*
Exactly 2 years later, post bumped laugh.gif

If you want the best FC you have to maintain 90-100km/h on the highway.
And I know how it feels for a heavy footer like myself, trying to refrain from speeding.

Recently I went on a trip to Penang with my Exora Turbo. Known for high FC in city driving, but as I kept my speed within 90-100 speed range, my FC meter clocked 7.3L/100KM (thats 13.7Km/L) as I clocked the first 150KMs. Beating Proton's original claim of 7.8L/100KM.
Also thanks to BHP Petrol for giving such good FC.


kelvintan133
post Mar 7 2022, 01:47 AM

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QUOTE(amscouzach57 @ Feb 28 2022, 07:35 AM)
You might have a symptom that we would like to call "golden leg". Hehehe.jk

Is it a Myvi with a 1.5L engine?
*
Ahaha yes 1.5L by the way. I go pretty heavy at times tho. I know for certain around 140km/h it gives CFC reading of about 14-16km/l for sure

This post has been edited by kelvintan133: Mar 7 2022, 01:48 AM
kelvintan133
post Mar 7 2022, 01:50 AM

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QUOTE(SleeplessEyes @ Mar 1 2022, 01:22 PM)
Exactly 2 years later, post bumped laugh.gif

If you want the best FC you have to maintain 90-100km/h on the highway.
And I know how it feels for a heavy footer like myself, trying to refrain from speeding.

Recently I went on a trip to Penang with my Exora Turbo. Known for high FC in city driving, but as I kept my speed within 90-100 speed range, my FC meter clocked 7.3L/100KM (thats 13.7Km/L) as I clocked the first 150KMs. Beating Proton's original claim of 7.8L/100KM.
Also thanks to BHP Petrol for giving such good FC.
*
You're not wrong. Have to be in the eco range and 90-100km/h is the best I guess.

At this point I don't trust any of these BHP claims of better FC and stuff. It's all petrol for Najib's sake XD. The oil all comes from the same oil rig for Petronas, Shell, all.
Just addictive inside for engine cleaning etc. Want to save money.... Use RON95 instead of RON97 je.

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