not sure mine similar to yours, sometimes mine crank liao engine will mati the 1st round, then crank again will be back to normal.
But been like this for few years.

yeah, once crank it start few second then slowly macam dying ada engine light then mati liao need to recrank then back to normal.

If the starter doesnt crank i just whack with hammer. 10 years i figure just change it

Never heard of such sound before. Better let yr foreman check.

After you open engine hood can you locate the sound origin?

Sounds like mounting problem to me. Or worse, gearbox?

tensioner vibration. just noise, doesn't feel anything weird inside. already replaced engine mounts. happens when in D, idling at a stop. i think most likely caused by lower RPM when idle in D gear. it's annoying.

depends on the workshop if they got wiring guy. but i think most power window problem should be easy enough can go anywhere. accessories shop also can.
i replaced the alternator overrunning alternator pulley. cost like around 100. upah workshop should be another 70. 

also good idea to replace the tensioner too. insist on proton original tensioner. the original should cost around 300++ right now. proton no longer make tensioner with metal roller, only plastic roller. tried various aftermarket tensioners, they all are no good.

Not sure whether is related to your issue or not. There's 2 spec of thermostat for campro in market. If not mistaken one is 78°C and another is 84°C. If you installed the one with higher opening temperature, i imagine your fan will run longer to dissipate heat between each thermostat open-close cycle. The changes in your fan behavior might warrant a coolant level check, water pump check or radiator efficiency check.

However this doesn't explain your cold start issue. Have you taken a look at your throttle body and consider a cleaning of it?

On the side note, there is a user in Facebook that run his Gen2/Persona without thermostat. But would this contribute long term damage to engine due to non optimum engine temperature remains unknown.

If your fan hasn't been changed for some time, maybe it's fan motor. Average lifespan is 5 years. Just keep close monitor on temperature gauge will do.

I clean my own throttle body. Not very difficult after 2 times of practice. Tricky part is the connector. Need to push in, pull clip, then only can pull out to remove. The rest is 10mm bolts, 1 vacuum line, intake cover and one can of carburetor cleaner from Mr DIY. All the best.

Would be accurate if you clean all the leaks and access the leaks severity from clean state?

Your photo where got oil leaking? My drain plug dripping few years every time squat down can obviously see the oil droplet, recently baru change.

Hi all, just now on the way back from work, i noticed my car temp go up until almost to the max during idle/stuck at traffic jam and traffic light.
But when the car moves, it dropped back to the normal level (centre) almost immediately.
Then when the car stopped again at traffic light, the meter goes up slowly and drop down again when moving.

Stopped the car, open bonnet, see no leak whatsoever, no smoke/burn smell, the fan was spinning.
Last CNY, already changed to new water pump + timing belt set, which also change the coolant.

Was the problem related to termostat or others?  Also the car is 15 years old.

Maybe old stain, will need to clean it with detergent or degreaser then monitor.

Last time mine dripping like that, few years frequent monitor oil level also no obvious drop.

Can try carburetor cleaner. Remember to put old newspaper below to catch the drip after you spray.

If really it's the dipstick housing, then it's a cheap fix. Just pull it out after unscrew the anchor and replace the O Ring.

Yeah it's a bit too close to be comfortable. Mine is a bit further away from hose. I suppose when your engine is cold you can always loosen the bracket screw and adjust the position, then tighten it back. Just don't force it too much else the glue give away. By the way i thought it would be easier just to change the o-ring?